CBR600rr rear shock swap

[Gorilla25]

Right now, im in the thought process of possibly doing this swap. I know that GSXR, ZX6r, and R1 shocks have been swapped with some modification.

-Does anyone know the eye-to-eye distance on the CBR shock? I know ours are 12 1/4"

-Does anyone know the eye diameter for the CBR or our shocks?

-Does anyone know the thickness of the top and bottom of the CBR shock versus ours?

Im planning on fitting the lower mounting part of the shock like how @alex.s: did on his R1 shock swap. That way, i dont have to worry about dog bone fitment or modifying the dog bone, which could compromise the structural integrity.

The reason im considering the CBR shock, is because some have a remote reservoir and that eliminates the clearance issues for the piggyback reservoir the ZX and GSXR have.

Thoughts, suggestions, concerns...discuss.

[Skippii]

You can make anything fit. I've done all sorts of weird shock swaps...sometimes you get odd problems like if you put dirtbike suspension on a ninja and take it off-road, the long travel means the chain gets too tight when you bottom out, and then falls off the sprockets when you catch air and unload the suspension...as long as you're smarter than I am you shouldn't have any issues. I currently have a zx600 shock with remote reservoir attached by the passenger pegs. Works great. It was on ebay for like $40 so I didn't bother to measure anything before buying it. I think it took a few minutes with an angle grinder to make it fit, nothing big.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Gorilla25]

So, i couldn't find a good deal on a CBR shock with remote reservoir, but did find a pretty good deal on a '06 R1 shock with the linkage and dog bone. I'll try and follow the installation alex did below.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=269719

@alex.s: If you have any tips or advise please feel free to chime in.

anyone else want to chime in, im all ears.

@Skippii: lol. i wont be bring my ninja off road like you. i already thought of off road shocks and realized they have much longer travel so cut the chord on that thought.

[alex.s]

get sealed lubricated rod end bearings for the dog bones if you are going to go my route. otherwise you have to lube them about every 1000 miles. not a big deal but if you dont they squeak, and if you are lazy like i am, you wind up just spraying them without regard to overspray every chain lube which can get the shock covered in lube.

make sure anything you add is at least 125kpsi and dont mess up the temper on it by heating it and bending it hard or anything

also note that changing away from stock linkage is illegal in some racing orgs so if you are going to be racing, look up your local rules

[Gorilla25]

Thanks for the advice. No race track in Hawaii so i don't have to worry about that. I need to re-read your thread and get a parts list together. then i can modify everything before i put it on the bike to make things go smoother and faster.

Edit: @alex.s: To make it a little easier, do you happen to have the part numbers?

[Gorilla25]

Found this: http://aurora.thomasnet.com/viewitem...rs-availabl-2?

but im having a hard time trying to convert newtons to kpsi :/

[flynjay]

Originally Posted by Gorilla25

Found this: http://aurora.thomasnet.com/viewitem...rs-availabl-2?

but im having a hard time trying to convert newtons to kpsi :/

That would be because the units don't convert. Try KPa -> psi .

[Gorilla25]

also found this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045DTNEM/...SIN=B0045DTNEM

but i dont know if the load specs meet or exceed 125kpsi. have not done the conversion yet

Edit: this is M10 X 1.5...if i end up getting these the threaded rod will also be M10 X 1.5 X 150mm or 165m

[Gorilla25]

From-->www.pegasusautoracing.com


Thats damn crazy if im gonna pay that price..

Update: I figured out that its NOT KPSI...its ***k PSI

EDIT: yes, i know the threading is off between the rod and the rod end. just wanted to show how crazy those prices are.

[alex.s]

haha wow those are expensive

newton is force, measured as kilos multiplied by the velocity measured as meters per second squared.

so lets do some calculations on vague ideas... lets say the ninja and you and a passenger weigh 1000lbs (450kg), and lets say you hit 6 inch bump (roughly the max suspension travel) going 100mph (44meters per second squared, about 2k)

450kg * 2000 = 900,000 newtons.

thats leaving a lot of things out, but thats probably about the most force those bones will ever take

lets get a more realistic number, eh?

600lbs (272kg), at 30mps (65mph)

272kg * (30*30) = 244,800 newtons. much more reasonable.

[Gorilla25]

Do you remember what racing store you got them from? Im having a real hard time finding them, besides those expensive ones

[alex.s]

i bought generic ones from grainger, a hardware store down the street

[alex.s]

keep in mind the numbers i threw together above are theoretical maxes. you would not expect to see those kind of numbers except in extreme cases, like crashing, or hitting things

[Gorilla25]

i see. I went to grainger online, and couldn't find metric ones

[alex.s]

their website sucks. use their catalog, find the parts and bring it down to the store

[Gorilla25]

i'll give that a try. Now to see if they even have a Hawaii store

[Gorilla25]

This is Bullshit....I called the Oahu grainger and they dont carry it in stock. in order for them to get a price quote or order them, i need a business account.

@alex.s: If i can't find them online or locally, would you mind picking the parts up for me and shipping them? of course, i'd reimburse you.

[alex.s]

ill look around. its probably easier at this point to just get some plates of steel or even aluminum and cut some fixed width dogbones yourself. after getting my rear height where i wanted it, i havent touched the adjusters

[Gorilla25]

ok. Thanks. in your thread you mentioned circa 94 katana or pre-gen dogbones. would that be easier to source then having to source steel or aluminum and drilling. I dont mind the fabrication...its just that i live in an apartment and my tools are limited

[alex.s]

i hear you. if you have a grinder and a hand drill you can make them from strips of steel or aluminum that can be bought pretty much anywhere, even your local home depot has them. you can simply drill the two holes to length then use the grinder to round the edges... i guess you dont need to but it makes things look nicer

[Gorilla25]

I could see if i can borrow a grinder and drill from a friend. right now all i have is a dremel and assorted cutting wheels, sanders, and drill bits. LOL. its been working on my ninja modifications so far.

[Gorilla25]

@alex.s: Im probably going to get some aluminum and drill, cut and shape it. Going to be cheaper. With that said:
1) How much taller is the R1 shock compared to ours(12 1/4" eye to eye)?
1) How long are your dog bones eye to eye?
2) how much higher is your rear compared to stock?

im probably going to leave my front the same length. and either have my rear the same height or an inch or two higher in the back. I know my rake will change, but will it change for the better, like quicker turning?

Now my parts list is:
-Aluminum (not sure on length or thickness yet)
-M10 washers and Spacer collars
-M12 washers and spacer collars
-Maybe M10.1.25 bolts and nuts
-Maybe M12x1.25 bolts and nuts

[choneofakind]

J model dogbones are 168mm eye to eye, according to this post

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...&postcount=205


Higher tail will make the bike turn in quicker . Just don't go excessively high or else you might find high-speed stability issues.

[Gorilla25]

Thanks for your input. i'll keep that in mind. The reason is because the R1 shock is taller, but how much?..that will decide on my custom dog bones as well as rear height. If anything, im not planning on going more than 2 inches above stock rear height, though I dont know if that will cause any high-speed stability issues as is. if it does, i'd like to find out before i make my dog bones, so i dont run into that issue and have to re-drill/adjust/remake the dog bones.

[choneofakind]

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=10

Looks like an '07-'08 R1 shock is 300mm long

12.25inch x 25.4mm/inch = 311.15mm stock 250R shock length. You'll need shorter dogbones with an '07-'08 R1 shock

[Gorilla25]

I was going to search as i just got done eating dinner..you beat me to it. since I have an '06 R1 shock, its possible that its either the same length or +/- .25 difference from the '07. With that said, i guess i need to make my dog bones apx 156.85mm eye to eye. I'll remeasure when my shock comes in.

[alex.s]

go 1.0 pitch

[Gorilla25]

for which?

[alex.s]

the two bolts you are using? i just mean finer thread + locktite seems like a more solid connection. oh btw always use locktite.

i have my tail raised about an inch and a half.. maybe 2 inches. the forks are dropped about an inch up above the triple. very agressive geometry but it seems to work with the tight suspension

[Gorilla25]

ahhh. i see. yes, i always use locktite. I've made that a habit to use since i started wrenching on cars back in high school. So, since i 'll leave my forks at stock height and only raise the rear an inch or two, i should be fine. sounds good.

whats the length of the bolts you are using? (the 10 and 12mm one) I'll just add length to that when i decide on the thickness of the aluminum i'll be using.

[Gorilla25]

My R1 shock just came in today! tomorrow I'll go to home depot and city mill to search for my misc needed parts.

[setasai]

Originally Posted by Gorilla25

I could see if i can borrow a grinder and drill from a friend. right now all i have is a dremel and assorted cutting wheels, sanders, and drill bits. LOL. its been working on my ninja modifications so far.

I've used a hacksaw w/ some files to shape some metal parts. Not the fastest thing but it gets the job done. Finish off w/ some sandpaper and uber fine steel wool. Super smooth. Goodluck! Looks like fun.

[Gorilla25]

Thanks for the tip It will be a fun project. I also have a hack saw that i will be using. I will be using those tools to to the dog bone fabrication.

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by alex.s

haha wow those are expensive

newton is force, measured as kilos multiplied by the velocity measured as meters per second squared.

so lets do some calculations on vague ideas... lets say the ninja and you and a passenger weigh 1000lbs (450kg), and lets say you hit 6 inch bump (roughly the max suspension travel) going 100mph (44meters per second squared, about 2k)

450kg * 2000 = 900,000 newtons.

thats leaving a lot of things out, but thats probably about the most force those bones will ever take

lets get a more realistic number, eh?

600lbs (272kg), at 30mps (65mph)

272kg * (30*30) = 244,800 newtons. much more reasonable.

dude...it's Newton's second law, F=MA. The "A" does not stand for Velocity.
Posted via Mobile Device

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Skippii

dude...it's Newton's second law, F=MA. The "A" does not stand for Velocity.
Posted via Mobile Device

yeah looking back i royally ****ed that one up. the 450kg at 100mph is like 19k newtons or something. i blame the alcohol and women.

[Gorilla25]

@slex.s: do you know if our spanner wrench can adjust the R1 shock, or do I need to source one?

[alex.s]

i used channel locks. other people use a flathead and a hammer. if i remember right i tried the ninja 250 one and it was off size. would work kinda but was almost impossible to use without it slipping off

[Gorilla25]

thanks..i was thinking of those two ways but was not sure about our stock spanner wrenches

[Gorilla25]

update: I could not find what i needed at local stores which really grinds my gears. I decided on ordering my parts. i should have everything by next monday. once i receive my parts, i will begin machining then installing once everything is done.

[austinm911]

Originally Posted by Skippii

dude...it's Newton's second law, F=MA. The "A" does not stand for Velocity.
Posted via Mobile Device

Well he explained it as acceleration :P , which is what Newton's second law is.. F=MA