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Old September 8th, 2015, 05:37 PM   #1
divil
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looking for a first bike...

Hi, new member here. I've just started looking for my first motorcycle, which I have pretty much decided should be a Ninja 250 or 300 in the 2-3K price range. So far I've looked at 5 bikes from craigslist, and for the most part it's been pretty disheartening! I was hoping to find something reasonably original, but it seems every example has been somewhatr "personalized", if I'm being kind . If anyone can offer any buying tips I'd really appreciate it. I'm handy enough mechanically, but have no experience with bikes. I'm also 33 so maybe a little late to be starting this game Here's my quick assessment of the ones I've seen so far - what do you guys think?

Bike 1: bad shape, obviously dropped more than once, moving, "custom" wiring, seller ozzing fake nonchalance. I've ruled this one out.

Bike 2: a really clean looking 2013 300, 1500 miles, minor fairing damage. Listed for 3700, the seller immediately offered it to me for 3200 when we met, without me even trying.

Bike 3: not bad, 2011 250, 4800 miles, one young lady owner from new. Minor fairing damage, some badly executed custom painted accent stripes (once pink, now faded orange), badly fitting eBay brake/clutch levers. Asking 2900 - I could probably snag it for close to 2 I think.

Bike 4: mechanically looks ok - the only 250 I've seen with a chain that looks lubed. Also the only owner to have anything to say about maintenance. He's a kid selling due to pressure from his parents. But the bike has badly fitting aftermarket side fairings, and he doesn't have the originals (he has the front one though). It actually looks fine from a few feet, but up close it's a little rough.

Bike 5: Not quite as nice as #3, owner just received it in trade, some neglect...*but* it still has the stock exhaust. Less than 4000 miles. He offered it for 2K. Both side fairings are damaged - no sign of a fast slide but it's definitely been dropped on both sides. On one side the fairing is bizarrely melted around the indicator. I have no clue what was going on there...maybe hot glue lol?

The reason the stock exhaust interests me is that I've heard aftermarket exhausts really require carb jetting to maintain the proper air-fuel ratio. Since most bikes seem to have non stock exhausts and owners who's eyes glaze over at the mention of jetting, I'm a little worried that they might have been running lean for a while. What kind of mileage would worry you in that regard?

Without a doubt, the 300 was the cleanest - original everything, practically new except for the minor fairing damage. But it was in a less than idyllic neighborhood, and while I don't have any reason to suspect the seller of anything, I do feel that when it comes to sizing each other up, this guy has the advantage over me. This one would be the biggest risk for sure. Does that price sound too low?

Thanks for reading...if I'm just being too picky, or not casting the net widely enough, feel free to tell me
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Old September 8th, 2015, 05:42 PM   #2
allanoue
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Relax and get the 300. You know where he lives.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 05:45 PM   #3
csmith12
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Welcome J!

Out of those choices, the 300 sounds like the bike.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 05:54 PM   #4
divil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allanoue View Post
Relax and get the 300. You know where he lives.
Lol that's the thing - I don't! He wanted to meet in a public place. I know he lives nearby, but that's it. Hopefully he'd have me come to his house if we make a deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith12 View Post
Welcome J!

Out of those choices, the 300 sounds like the bike.
Thanks!
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Old September 8th, 2015, 06:05 PM   #5
allanoue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divil View Post
Lol that's the thing - I don't! He wanted to meet in a public place. I know he lives nearby, but that's it. Hopefully he'd have me come to his house if we make a deal.



Thanks!
Title and ID. ID will have address.

What State are you?

Run the vin make sure it is clean before you show cash.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 06:27 PM   #6
VaFish
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I went the opposite direction. I found 2 non running pre Gen 250s got them real cheap knowing they would need some work.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 06:37 PM   #7
divil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allanoue View Post
Title and ID. ID will have address.

What State are you?

Run the vin make sure it is clean before you show cash.
Indiana. I have the VIN, haven't run it yet though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VaFish View Post
I went the opposite direction. I found 2 non running pre Gen 250s got them real cheap knowing they would need some work.
I considered the older ones, but although I'm handy enough with mechanical things, I don't really have time for a project. I already have an old car that covers that, and I really need a bike that will let me concentrate on learning how to ride.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 06:47 PM   #8
allanoue
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from
http://www.dmv.org/in-indiana/title-transfers.php
Buying from a Private Seller

As the purchaser, it is your responsibility to complete the title transfer, and pay the transfer fee, after you purchase a used car from a private seller.

You have 31 days after the purchase date to complete the car title transfer. If you do meet this deadline, you will have to pay a late fee.

To complete the auto title transfer for your new vehicle to an Indiana car title:

Obtain the vehicle title from the seller*, with the following information filled out:
The seller's signature.
The date of purchase.
The price of sale.
Your information indicating you are the buyer.
The odometer reading.
* If the vehicle has a lien and the lienholder has possession of the title, please see Lien Releases in Indiana below.
Have the seller remove the license plate.
Once you have the title properly filled out, visit your local IN Bureau of Motor Vehicles office with:

A completed Application for Certificate of Title (Form 44049).
The vehicle title.
If the odometer information isn't filled out on the title, provide an Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 43230).
Proof of residency (e.g. driver's license, current utility bill, etc.).
Proof of vehicle inspection, if applicable (see below).
Payment for your titling and registration fees.
Selling a Vehicle
When selling a car, you are responsible for signing the title over to the new owner. This includes:

Signing where instructed on the title certificate.
Filling in the purchaser's information.
Providing an odometer disclosure.
Noting the date and price of sale.
You should also remove the license plates from the car before the transaction is complete.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 07:46 PM   #9
Jasonm163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allanoue View Post
from
http://www.dmv.org/in-indiana/title-transfers.php
Buying from a Private Seller

As the purchaser, it is your responsibility to complete the title transfer, and pay the transfer fee, after you purchase a used car from a private seller.

You have 31 days after the purchase date to complete the car title transfer. If you do meet this deadline, you will have to pay a late fee.

To complete the auto title transfer for your new vehicle to an Indiana car title:

Obtain the vehicle title from the seller*, with the following information filled out:
The seller's signature.
The date of purchase.
The price of sale.
Your information indicating you are the buyer.
The odometer reading.
* If the vehicle has a lien and the lienholder has possession of the title, please see Lien Releases in Indiana below.
Have the seller remove the license plate.
Once you have the title properly filled out, visit your local IN Bureau of Motor Vehicles office with:

A completed Application for Certificate of Title (Form 44049).
The vehicle title.
If the odometer information isn't filled out on the title, provide an Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 43230).
Proof of residency (e.g. driver's license, current utility bill, etc.).
Proof of vehicle inspection, if applicable (see below).
Payment for your titling and registration fees.
Selling a Vehicle
When selling a car, you are responsible for signing the title over to the new owner. This includes:

Signing where instructed on the title certificate.
Filling in the purchaser's information.
Providing an odometer disclosure.
Noting the date and price of sale.
You should also remove the license plates from the car before the transaction is complete.
Do this and if all is well buy the 300 for the $3200 or less if you can talk him into it. That's a good deal, and if it's been dropped at very low speed or stop its just cosmetic small BS that can be replaced once you learn how to ride well and feel like you won't damage it on accident yourself. Welcome and an early congrats on your first bike!
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Old September 8th, 2015, 07:55 PM   #10
rojoracing53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divil View Post
Lol that's the thing - I don't! He wanted to meet in a public place. I know he lives nearby, but that's it. Hopefully he'd have me come to his house if we make a deal.



Thanks!
I don't sell things from my house because I tend to have lots of very cool toys there. I don't need some thief posing as a buyer to get a good look at my other toys and plan to rip me off later.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 08:07 PM   #11
divil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojoracing53 View Post
I don't sell things from my house because I tend to have lots of very cool toys there. I don't need some thief posing as a buyer to get a good look at my other toys and plan to rip me off later.
Yep I totally understand and I don't blame the guy at all. I once flew 1500 miles to buy a car, and stayed in a hotel 5 minutes from the guys house, and he never invited me over lol! And worse, I had to tell my bank to transfer the money, and then watch him drive away home, and wait for him to come back when his bank confirmed everything. But I knew he was legit by then. But I think what allanoue said is bang on, if I see his ID that would be enough.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 03:59 PM   #12
divil
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I saw another bike today, that just came up on CL. It's a 250, 5000 miles, practically spotless, and totally stock, except that it's been lowered at the rear, as the current rider is short. It's definitely never been on the ground unless someone went to a LOT of trouble to clean it up. Levers and handlebar ends are spotless. He's asking 2500 but he'll go a bit lower. This one is by far the best deal in a 250 I've seen. If I can get it for a bit less I think I might go for this one over the 300. I definitely feel better about this seller than the 300 guy.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 04:57 PM   #13
csmith12
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There is always a better deal to the patient shopper.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 07:04 PM   #14
maverick31210
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If you're buying locally, don't even sweat if the guy invites you to his house.

What I've done when buying vehicles is have the guy meet me at the DMV. I obviously check out the tile and make sure it's clear. I take down his ID information just in case as well.

Meet at the DMV, once the vehicle is put in my name we walk outside and he gets his money.

Really...as long as you see a clear title and can check the VIN you're fine. I've bought several with just a signed title. It's all you need.

Make sure you check the VIN on the title against the VIN on the car/bike. This is the most important thing.
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Old September 10th, 2015, 06:44 PM   #15
divil
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Well thanks for all the advice everyone. I bought bike #6 today for $2100. It's metallic blue, near perfect condition, 5000 miles. The seller couldn't find the original links for the ride height, so I need to source those myself. But other than that, it's bone stock. Now all I have to do is try to remember what I learned in the MSF course almost a year ago
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Old September 10th, 2015, 07:08 PM   #16
csmith12
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Old September 10th, 2015, 08:27 PM   #17
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Hi, J! Welcome. And congrats on the new bike!
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Old September 11th, 2015, 06:05 AM   #18
cadd
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I almost always do any motor vehicle transaction in the lobby of a bank. Tons of CCTV located everywhere. From there, I either go straight home (if I'm the seller) or go straight to the dmv (if I'm the buyer).
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Old September 11th, 2015, 09:41 AM   #19
APEmike
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I love my 300. bought new in '14. They dont require re-jetting for minor things as they are fuel injected. Slip-on and a KnN filter? No problems. More than that and get a Power Commander 5 and find a good tuner. Simple stuff. It fires up in the first few rotations every time, and no warm up issues. Power and torque are way up from a 250, to the point where if feel this is a bike I could live with on a permanent basis. After 8k miles Ive had to replace only fuel, oil, and a single back tire.

As far as the seller, maybe he just REALLY need out from under it, or needs money for something else.
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