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Old July 30th, 2009, 04:05 PM   #1
ajaygraci
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tach stopped working -.-

yea well i was backin out of driveway in nuetral... rpm are at idling speed of 1.2k and then all of sudden it goes to 0 ... and stays that throughout my ride.. seriously WTF all ive had is problems with this thing since i bought it lol... i rode like 5 miles since trying to see if it will start working again.. ill be at 50 mph it will still read 0 rpms.... grrr.. oh yea ive turned bike on and off few times too.. and fill up with gas... help is appreciated
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Old July 30th, 2009, 05:17 PM   #2
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just started up again and tach still at 0 -.-
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Old July 30th, 2009, 05:59 PM   #3
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any1 have similar experience? ...
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Old July 30th, 2009, 06:27 PM   #4
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I had huge problems with my tach when I first got the bike(Not the same exact problem you have though)

Is the bike still under warranty? If so...bring it back...you may get a new tach like I did
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Old July 30th, 2009, 09:00 PM   #5
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It may be a bad CDI
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Ignitor_problem
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Old July 30th, 2009, 09:45 PM   #6
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prob a loose tach wire...but if you have warranty, take it in..if not, then open her up and see what's up.
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Old July 30th, 2009, 09:53 PM   #7
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Well on my 95 one day I looked under the dash and saw a mechanical cable unattached. Turned out it was the cable for the speedometer/odometer and the nut holding it on had come lose. Was a simple fix of just putting it back in and tightening the nut again. If you're lucky it could be just as simple, if not then take it in for warranty work.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 01:00 AM   #8
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When my battery died I pop-started it and my tach would climb then snap to zero when I'd start moving. After the charge returned to normal, so did the tach behavior. Sound similar?
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Old July 31st, 2009, 03:42 AM   #9
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When my battery died I pop-started it and my tach would climb then snap to zero when I'd start moving. After the charge returned to normal, so did the tach behavior. Sound similar?
Almost sounds like your tach signal cable is grounding somewhere.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 06:20 AM   #10
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hmmm thanks guys... im kinda scared to take it in for warrenty (i still have one) because i have flushmount turn signals and a full exhaust system.. do you think that will void the warrenty .... my battery was dead a while ago too but i charged it up and now it starts with a little throttle... maybe there related..

i guess ill try to check for loose wires, so what i just look under the bike on my back?
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Old July 31st, 2009, 06:40 AM   #11
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yeah would mods like that kill the warranty?
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Old July 31st, 2009, 07:11 AM   #12
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Not likely. The warranty is only voided in areas where a mod can reasonably be assumed to have actually caused the problem. The exhaust has zero to do with a tach not working, and the flushmounts are quite unlikely, unless there was some creative work done on the main wiring harness at the time that could have affected the tach wiring.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 09:36 AM   #13
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thanks i guess ill take it in then... long ride tho hope nothin goes wrong
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Old August 1st, 2009, 03:55 AM   #14
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When my battery died I pop-started it and my tach would climb then snap to zero when I'd start moving. After the charge returned to normal, so did the tach behavior. Sound similar?
Almost sounds like your tach signal cable is grounding somewhere.
Nope... accidentally left my key in, the lights ran it completely dead, and it never came back once I charged it back up. I've done that before and since without running it quite so dead and it didn't do it either of those times, so it has to be REALLY dead. It ran like crap until the tach behavior returned to normal. Time to follow the Kawi manual instead of the MSF training: stop using the engine kill switch.
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Old August 1st, 2009, 09:07 PM   #15
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Time to follow the Kawi manual instead of the MSF training: stop using the engine kill switch.
You do realize that part of the MSF way of turning off the bike INCLUDES taking the key out right? They say to use the kill switch AND THEN turn the key off and take it out. Don't blame the MSF for your mistake. Leaving your key in the bike is just as bad as leaving the key in your car and with the same results. You didn't notice that all your lights were still glowing on the bike when you walked away? Be glad that only your battery went dead instead of it being stolen.
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 04:20 AM   #16
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When my battery died I pop-started it and my tach would climb then snap to zero when I'd start moving. After the charge returned to normal, so did the tach behavior. Sound similar?
Almost sounds like your tach signal cable is grounding somewhere.
Nope... accidentally left my key in, the lights ran it completely dead, and it never came back once I charged it back up. I've done that before and since without running it quite so dead and it didn't do it either of those times, so it has to be REALLY dead. It ran like crap until the tach behavior returned to normal. Time to follow the Kawi manual instead of the MSF training: stop using the engine kill switch.
You do realize that part of the MSF way of turning off the bike INCLUDES taking the key out right? They say to use the kill switch AND THEN turn the key off and take it out. Don't blame the MSF for your mistake. Leaving your key in the bike is just as bad as leaving the key in your car and with the same results. You didn't notice that all your lights were still glowing on the bike when you walked away? Be glad that only your battery went dead instead of it being stolen.
Of course I noticed, but you're assuming that it was undesirable in the situation. One of the times I simply left the key in while I was working on the bike (adding a 12v power socket) and it ran dead while I was busy crimping cables and routing through the fairings. Another time I was at work early and let the previous shift go to the bathroom even though I wasn't ready to go on-duty. I was going to go right back out to move it (reason why I left the key in) but an employee from the previous shift begged me to man the desk for a moment and let them run to the restroom. They forgot to come back and let me go move it/retrieve the key, so I couldn't leave the security desk for over 4.5 hours. At least I had a camera pointed right at it and could call another guard if needed. The time it ran completely dead it was in my garage/accessory building... I warmed it up then remembered something I needed to bring with me to my brother's apartment. I needed a few minutes to find it so I shut the bike off and stepped into the accessory building. I discovered that it was too much trouble to bring on my bike, so I took the car instead. The bike was in the back of the building, thus, out of sight, out of mind and t Oops. The lights were normal/expected when I walked away but by the time I was ready to go I assumed that I had the keys and the lights could not be seen by anyone (I have a different set for the car that has a detachable spare bike key).

Yes, I'll admit, I have left the key in the bike in public a couple times but I always realized that early... usually before I've reached the sidewalk and still within eye/earshot (no farther than you might wander during warm-up)!

Anyway, I'm not blaming the MSF BRC procedure... I'm just saying that Kawi says to use the ignition key for shut-down for that very reason and the MSF says to use the kill-switch for another reason. Yes, I literally asked why the Kawi manual says to use the ignition and the course says to use the switch and this was the only answer that anyone could come up with: To habitually remove the key during shut-down vs. the MSF's priorities of having you accustomed to the kill-switch for an emergency. I'm plenty accustomed to it by now, so I'll switch for the sake of "best practices." I am pretty absent-minded when it comes to those things, though, luckily, I've never done it in a place where my bike was at risk without catching it early. Coming close as often as I have is enough to convince me to switch practices.

OH! And, FWIW, at no point in the H-D R'sE MSF BRC I took were we allowed to remove the key. The "I" in FINE-C and EIC meant to turn it on or off with the ignition key and that was it, though strictly following it in the real-world would mean taking it out during EIC. The difference is that if you always remove it in the same step when turning the bike off it's almost impossible to walk away without your key (the bike will be running). With the kill-switch, you might get caught up with something else... like repositioning the bike, removing your helmet, gloves, gadgets, etc. and think that you have completed EIC because the bike's engine is already shut off.
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 03:51 PM   #17
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Ummm, no offense, but you've just helped to reinforce my point. That point being that leaving the key in the ignition with the power still on is still more of a "operator head space" as we say in the tech world. (no offense meant, I have moments like that as well, we all do )

It's kinda like how I've had to get on my roommate's case about using the parking brake on my car. He has a manual trans car and has to use his parking brake all the time when parking his car. My car is automatic but with all the controls in the same spots as his car and he kept forgetting the parking brake on my car for some reason. You would think that if you're used to using the parking brake EVERY TIME you drive your own car that it would be almost automatic to use it regardless, especially when all the controls are in the same spots.


Anyway, back on topic. Have you gotten the tach working again? Was it simply the battery or something more?
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Old August 5th, 2009, 04:55 PM   #18
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way to stay on focus -.- ........... anyway guys tach still isnt working.. dealership says not underwarrenty because "you didnt have a tender on your battery while storing during winter" ....... thats BS isnt it? wtf im gunna go to different dealer ?
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Old August 5th, 2009, 05:04 PM   #19
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way to stay on focus -.- ........... anyway guys tach still isnt working.. dealership says not underwarrenty because "you didnt have a tender on your battery while storing during winter" ....... thats BS isnt it? wtf im gunna go to different dealer ?
yes, that's total BS. Call Kawasaki directly and complain you can't get legitimate warranty service done at that dealership.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 06:06 PM   #20
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well charge up the battery and your tach should be back to hey-hey-okay..??
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Old August 12th, 2009, 04:56 PM   #21
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way to stay on focus -.- ........... anyway guys tach still isnt working.. dealership says not underwarrenty because "you didnt have a tender on your battery while storing during winter" ....... thats BS isnt it? wtf im gunna go to different dealer ?
Hey, I'm having the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. My tach died yesterday all of the sudden, bike runs perfect, but tach stays at zero. I have no clue what triggered it.

Mine is also under warranty so I guess I'll call Kawasaki to see what they can do. Did you call them?
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Old December 24th, 2010, 02:15 AM   #22
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OK, my tach died today. It stayed stuck at zero for miles and miles but I would see it twitch every now and then. After riding many miles at high speed, it looked like it was completely circled around and pointing pretty much straight down (not sure when it switched). For the ride home it stayed off the whole time.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 10:49 PM   #23
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OK, my tach died today. It stayed stuck at zero for miles and miles but I would see it twitch every now and then. After riding many miles at high speed, it looked like it was completely circled around and pointing pretty much straight down (not sure when it switched). For the ride home it stayed off the whole time.
I just bought a new 2011, left over stock. The tach worked for the first 14 kilometers when the dealer was test driving it. But as I was preparing to leave the lot, it worked for a few minutes during warmup, and then quit... went to zero. So I left it at the dealer. They had to replace the tach. I guess they go bad. This is my third new gen and the others worked fine for a total of 60,000 kms. So here's hopin'.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 10:55 PM   #24
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I just bought a new 2011, left over stock. The tach worked for the first 14 kilometers when the dealer was test driving it. But as I was preparing to leave the lot, it worked for a few minutes during warmup, and then quit... went to zero. So I left it at the dealer. They had to replace the tach. I guess they go bad. This is my third new gen and the others worked fine for a total of 60,000 kms. So here's hopin'.
Well, mine started working again and only gave be trouble when there was visible condensation in my gauges or my battery was completely dead. Sorry for not following up.
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