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Old March 2nd, 2015, 04:05 PM   #1
08GreenNinja
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Blinkers/ Turn Signals don't flash

Hey guys, this is my first post here so not sure if it has been covered or not. but here is my question:

I dropped my bike last week and snapped off the right hand side turn signal. I have bought new Slimline LED turn signals and swapped both the front left and side ones, while the rear are still the OEM turn signals. When i try to turn one side on or the other, they don't flash, they just stay constant on until manually turned off. would anyone know the problem?

Thanks in advance
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 04:14 PM   #2
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Search for diode mod. The LED blinkers aren't providing enough resistance, so the relay doesn't flash them. It's the same thing that happens if one of the bulbs burns out (the other one stays on instead of blinking).
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 04:50 PM   #3
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You may also need a new flasher. For the same reason Alex mention, the LEDs don't draw enough to heat up the stock flasher so it never works right. You need an electronic flasher.

A Tridon EP 34 is recommended.

Here is some information on staying away from the EL12: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=88022
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 06:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf View Post
You may also need a new flasher. For the same reason Alex mention, the LEDs don't draw enough to heat up the stock flasher so it never works right. You need an electronic flasher.

A Tridon EP 34 is recommended.

Here is some information on staying away from the EL12: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=88022
100% agree the Tridon EP 34 is the only one I have found that works as advertised, that's why they cost more, go figure

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Old March 2nd, 2015, 06:21 PM   #5
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thanks for the quick replies, if i was to buy and install a rear integrated tail with LED blinkers, would the Tridon EP 34 still run them all? along with the diode mod?
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 06:25 PM   #6
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thanks for the quick replies, if i was to buy and install a rear integrated tail with LED blinkers, would the Tridon EP 34 still run them all? along with the diode mod?
If you buy the Tridon, no diodes are required at all, and yes it will work

But remember only the Tridon will work, so don't even waste your time and money on a cheaper one.
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 06:33 PM   #7
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Tridon EP34 Flasher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00064LQKS..._S8q9ub01JWWJG
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 06:54 PM   #8
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 07:29 AM   #9
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I know right, but how many of these have we seen and answered, to only have an OP post later, I got another flasher because it was cheaper, but it didn't work, etc..............

I'm just making sure that this OP gets the message.
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 11:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
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If you buy the Tridon, no diodes are required at all, and yes it will work

But remember only the Tridon will work, so don't even waste your time and money on a cheaper one.
Err, check that.

If all four turn signals are LED, a diode is required to get them to operate correctly.

My bad understanding is it prevents the low draw from "leaking" to the other side and creating "hazards".

A better smarter answer: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...1&postcount=32
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 12:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf View Post
Err, check that.

If all four turn signals are LED, a diode is required to get them to operate correctly.

My bad understanding is it prevents the low draw from "leaking" to the other side and creating "hazards".

A better smarter answer: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...1&postcount=32
My oversight, he's got a NewGen, in this case he's also going to need to order this along with the Tridon unit as well.

2008-2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250 No-Cut Diode Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHOGOA8..._G9G9ub1HB4KCA


Thanks for pointing this out.
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 01:06 PM   #12
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oh? Is it not the same for pregen? Didn't realize that, I'll have to pay more attention to the subcategory from now on.
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 01:14 PM   #13
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oh? Is it not the same for pregen? Didn't realize that, I'll have to pay more attention to the subcategory from now on.
Yea, and don't ask me why either, I have a PreGen, so it was a simple install, and run the ground wire, on my 1st Gen EX500 it was a play-n-play,(OEM 3 wire set-up ), but I've seen on the NewGen you sometimes have to run this too.

Maybe it has something to do with the additional ground wire needed for the Tridon?

All else fails, if he doesn't need it, he can return it to Amazon, they have the best return policy I've seen for online sales, fast easy, and you don't even need to leave your home to do it either.

SIDENOTE: only for Amazon fulfilled orders, check before buying naturally.

I do know that the Tridon is the ONLY one that works as advertised, I've tried several electronic flasher relays, and they all have issues working properly, and are NOT worth the headaches Vs money saved, sometimes you have to pay the price.
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 06:03 PM   #14
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Welcome, and please post up if you need more info.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 11:46 AM   #15
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Yeah, listen to that guy. He's really smart. And handsome and funny too.

The wiring diagram shows the PreGen wired up the same way as the NewGen, with the indicator using the + wire from each side's turn signal. It should behave exactly the same way. Any bike with a single turn signal indicator wired up this way should inherently do the same thing. Personally, I think it's a really cheap cop-out way of wiring the indicator up.

Note that the larger load of incandescent bulbs keeps them from lighting up due to this "leaking" current from the other side. Depending on exactly what LED signals you get, it's possible they might be a large enough load that the stray power isn't enough to light them up.

I think everyone should do the diode mod. I see it as fixing a deficiency in the OEM wiring which relies on a flaw (bulb inefficiency) to result in proper operation. Adding the diodes installs one-way gates so that each side can access the indicator without being able to power the opposite side. It'll work just fine with a bone stock bike, though I guess it's a bit of wasted time/money if you never end up changing anything from the "it ends up working ok" stock setup. Installing the diode mod will also let you switch the indicator bulb to an LED if you so desire (the stock indicator will only work for one side if you install an LED).

The EX500 doesn't suffer from this because it has a separate indicator for each side, so the two sides are completely isolated. The single indicator is what bridges the two sides together and is the root cause of this issue.


The flasher is completely separate from the diode stuff, and has to do with old-fashioned flashers relying on the larger load of incandescent bulbs. As a safety feature, they blink faster when they see a lower load (i.e. a dead bulb). However, LEDs are more efficient and closer to a dead incandescent than a live one, so the flasher thinks there's a bulb out and hyperflashes. An electronic flasher will flash at the normal rate regardless of the load on it, so it will work with incandescent bulbs or LEDs, and with good or dead bulbs (so make sure you're checking your signals for proper operation in your pre-ride check).

I'm not sure what the difference is internally, but there are 2-wire and 3-wire flashers. Some just have a +12V in and a "flashing +12V" out. Others also have a ground wire. The Gen2 EX500 switched from a 3-wire to a 2-wire halfway through its run for no apparent reason. The Tridon EP34 is a good 3-wire replacement, while the ELFR-1 and LF1-S-FLAT are PnP 2-wire options for the EX500, VFR800, and probably others (the NewGen is 2-wire according to the wiring diagram, but I don't know what the plug is like).

http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...er_Replacement has most of this info too, though it's obviously aimed at the 500 rather than the 250. The underlying info is all relevant though.


Quote:
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2008-2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250 No-Cut Diode Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHOGOA8/
One thing that bugs me about this kit is that it grounds to the frame via the ring terminal, instead of using a ground wire that's already present in the harness you're messing with. The frame should be grounded, but it's best to just use existing common ground wire when the harness includes one. When Tri said he was getting out of making these at least for a while, I thought about making my own version without the ring terminal.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 12:03 PM   #16
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@InvisiBill,

I agree, if the ground wire was long enough to go to the main ground point on the engine of the 250, which is fairly close.

Personally I either ground to the two existing points, it's not that big of deal, but some people either don't know, or care about the ground leads, which is equally important as the positive lead.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 07:45 PM   #17
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you're prob low on blinker fluid
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Old March 6th, 2015, 09:23 PM   #18
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you're prob low on blinker fluid
Problem solved



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