Group Buy: Area P Race System (Completed!) - Page 5

Xoulrath · April 5th, 2011, 09:29 PM

I don't know why, but the pictures of the exhausts here look even better than the pictures on Kerry's website!

So, any YouTube videos up yet guys?

want1sobad · April 6th, 2011, 10:55 AM

can't wait to get mine installed!!! should be picking up from the powder coater tomorrow (i blacked out the can and midpipe, also went with the conical tip).

i'll get pics up asap

Cuongism · April 7th, 2011, 01:48 PM

So I installed the Race Exhaust this morning. Install is fairly straightforward, but I included some installation pics and steps I took. Let me know if I did anything wrong or should have done something differently

First thing is removing the old exhaust which is a Yoshi slip on.

I decided to just remove it as one piece which would be easiest. Remove the two bolts from the passenger pegs.

Remove bolt from midpipe.

Remove 4 exhaust port flange nuts.

Push the headers forward and the whole system will come off. You can see how much bigger the Area P pipes are compared to stock headers.

To install the race exhaust, start by cleaning the gasket surface and adding the custom exhaust port gaskets onto the head pipe spigots. Fit in the headers which you can install individually or together as a unit. Just remember that the Merge Connector has the bend on top and that the shorter head pipe goes into the pipe with the bend.

Don't tighten the flange nuts or install the retaining springs yet. Next step is to install the Mid Pipe. Position the T-Bolt clamp so that the bolt is on top facing outwards. Also, do not tighten these either.

Next step is to install the Mounting Bracket to where the passenger pegs used to be. You will be re-using the old bolts and these bolts you will tighten securely (passenger peg torque specs are 18 ft lb). Time to install the muffler! First, you place the extra T-Bolt clamp onto the midpipe and then install the muffler. Don't tighten T-Bolt (notice a trend here?)

Next step is to add the muffler body mounting clamp. It comes with a protective plastic sheet that I didn't really notice til reading the instructions.

Install the rubber insulator strip to the mounting clamp.

Now wrap the clamp around the muffler and make sure there's full contact going all the way around. Position the clamp to the outside of the mounting bracket which should help with clearance issues which I did have. Kerry provides 4 8mm washers as well with the bolt and nylock nut. Since I have rearset adjusters, my brake hose got in the way. Normally the brake hose is more forwards on stock rearsets.

I used all the washers to help with the clearance and readjusted the brake hose position to clear the muffler.

Now that everything is in place, start checking for any clearance issues. Check that the muffler or clamp aren't near the swingarm, brake hoses, or the brake line loop guides (which can be bent down slightly).

Now it's time to start tightening everything. His instructions are to start with the head pipe flange nuts, install the springs

tighten the muffler body clamp, tighten the T-Bolt clamp on the Merge Collector and then the T-Bolt clamp on the muffler.

Last step is to re-install the right fairing to check for any clearance issues with the fairing. Kerry does provide washers in case it comes close to the fairings. I haven't done this step yet because I'll be installing larger jets today as well. I'm going to start with DJ 106's. Right now, time for lunch

kkim · April 7th, 2011, 02:13 PM

wayanlam · April 7th, 2011, 08:44 PM

hmmm, might not be the right thread to ask this, but since we have a lot of new exhausts here im hoping that someone has one with an O2 bung welded on from the shop as reference.

my question is: how long/big is the bung?

would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...xgy_00_02_t_lh

or do i need to get a longer bung, so that the sensor tip doesn't obstruct the pipe too much?

cos they also have another one that's longer....

but i dont know which one is the one i need, lol
http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...2234043&sr=1-7

that or

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...2234043&sr=1-4
that...

i have the standard AreaP exhaust, so the mid pipe isnt as big as the new Race type exhaust. but i want to buy this part, and get it welded on so i can get a good reading when i go for a run at the dyno.

thanks!

Cuongism · April 7th, 2011, 10:50 PM

So I finally got around to installing the DJ 106's. I strapped on my GoPro and took it for a test run. First thing I noticed is it's louder than my Yoshi with silencer and has a different tone (gruntier). BTW, I have a 15 in, so it'll be louder than the full 18 in exhaust. Once moving, I definitely feel more pep in the lower rpms. I rode around to warm up the bike before I took it to the top end to test the new jets. I was welcomed by something interesting during my warmup. Unfortunately, I had my GoPro upside down so the angle was shooting down vs up

I thought I had some great footage too.

I am cruising down the left lane (about 55) of a two lane street that has no intersections until the very end of the video. The lanes open up into 3 lanes and my left lane becomes the center lane. Someone makes a right out of a parking lot onto the street I was going down, but instead of making a right into the right lane like most people, she decides to cut 3 lanes and make a right into the left lane. Her van was perpendicular to the center lane when I started braking since it blocked my path. I try to swerve left because I wasn't gonna stop in time, but she also goes to the left lane

I pull up to the van and it belongs Transit Authority

Link to original page on YouTube.

I wish I had a better angle of the video because it's just crazy that she doesn't see me coming (nighttime with headlights). Oh well (I do have her license plate). 60 to 0 in 3-4 seconds is not too shabby.

Back to the exhaust! On my way back, I took it to redline each gear to see how it feels. Unfortunately, the power may be really linear because I don't feel that power range past 9k that I normally do. It definitely pulls hard, but I don't notice that extra umph after 9k. I am going to drop down to DJ 104 to see if that brings the top end power back.

When I got home, I tested throttle response to blips of 3k. It hangs coming back down so idle is leanish. Will play with the screws before I switch back down to 104 first. Jetting...such a tedious process

CynicalC · April 8th, 2011, 01:29 AM

Wow that was a close call. I would make a call about that one for sure. Maybe that woman needs a deskjob for a while.

wayanlam · April 8th, 2011, 01:54 AM

i really like the way the race exhaust looks, the steeper angle, and the phat headder and mid pipe... and the fact its still so nice and new!

im so jealous, haha!

however my GF would kick my ass if i removed the passenger peg

i sorta hinted that i really liked the exhaust when the gb was still running and when she saw there was no foot peg she just said "NO WAY!" rofl

kkim · April 8th, 2011, 02:14 AM

that's easily fixed... new exhaust, new/no GF.

wayanlam · April 8th, 2011, 02:35 AM

HAHA.... well as it is i have 2 Girlfriends, the bike and my gal... if i add this exhaust into the equation ill have only one GF, although she might look better with this race system, i still prefer having both girls with me, while using the standard AreaP exhaust. currently, it makes all three of us happy

ungluck · April 8th, 2011, 02:43 AM

304 stainless piping?

kbryant · April 8th, 2011, 09:59 AM

Wayan - Bung length should be determined by your Wideband probe length and depending on how it senses (tip or side). It's always best to have minimal protrusion into the exhaust stream. So if you are not sure of what length, it would normally be preferred to purchase the shorter version. You can always shim/space out the probe for proper insertion depth (depending on probe thread depth).

On our standard systems (like you have), we would recommend that you install it just after the collector, which would be similar to where the Euro/FI version would be on the OEM system (which is where we install them). We do offer custom installation in whatever position the customer chooses.

For the Bungs you have noted, the issue with using automotive type units is primarily the material and design. Our system is made from 304 series stainless steel. Most Auto bungs are from 400 or 303 series (they may say they are 304, but it is highly unlikely....). 400 does not weld very well and will rust. 303 is easier and cheaper to machine, but also is dubious when welding. Also they do not machine in any kind of orientation shoulder, so there is not additional support or location set. One of them you have noted is steel. I don't recommend you use a steel version.

Our Bungs are cnc machined from 304 series stainless steel only, which is costly and a pain. But they are done correctly and TIG weld perfectly. We also machine in a "Shoulder" so when we drill/mill the hole in the tubing, the Bung stays properly located for a smooth transition through the tube, as well as having additional support on the material. We pre-heat the component when welding (since it is so much thicker than the tubing) to assure minimal distortion with no stress cracking when cooling.

Momaru · April 8th, 2011, 10:22 AM

Rrrr! So tempting, but don't have nearly enough cash on hand to dump and I'm already so happy with my AreaP standard 18" CF...

Boosted139 · April 8th, 2011, 06:43 PM

Finally got to fire her up tonight, I'm still grinning ear to ear. If all goes well with the weather, hope to tune the jetting tomorrow

wayanlam · April 8th, 2011, 06:49 PM

hi Kerry, thanks for the detailed reply

so what i plan to use will be the Bosch wide band sensor:

which has the sensor on the tip, and not the sides.

regarding the bung material, now you have me slightly worried about getting them from Amazon.com hehe...

how much would you charge for the bung if i were to buy one from you instead? i can have it sent to my office in LA again like the replacement bracket you sent me last year, since i have someone that will be coming back to bali in a month or two who can hand carry it for me.

regarding the welding, i think i will bring it to the DEUS workshop, they have a tig welder, and ive seen their welding work and it looked really good (like 10000 times better than most of the local welgers, lol) i will advise them to preheat the bung, since its thicker than the exhaust pipe.

regarding the weld location, if i understood correctly, it should go where the two pipes from the header join up into the mid pipe?

have a good week end!
thanks,
W.

randomwalk101 · April 8th, 2011, 07:23 PM

Bung is m18x1.5 i think. It's same size as sparkplug.

kbryant · April 9th, 2011, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayanlam

how much would you charge for the bung if i were to buy one from you instead? i can have it sent to my office in LA again like the replacement bracket you sent me last year, since i have someone that will be coming back to bali in a month or two who can hand carry it for me.

regarding the weld location, if i understood correctly, it should go where the two pipes from the header join up into the mid pipe?

Wayan we don't normally sell our Bungs seperately from an installation at our facility, but since you purchased the exhaust previously ($25.00). Please note that it does not mean the other bungs you noted won't work. We just do things differently with our own products.

The preferred location is actually on the mid-pipe, about 25mm or so after the collector junction. Be sure you check hole orientation for clearance to engine and fairing prior to milling/drilling so that the external portion of your probe will clear everything.

Fly'in Ninja · April 9th, 2011, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CynicalC

Wow that was a close call. I would make a call about that one for sure. Maybe that woman needs a deskjob for a while.

Cuongism · April 9th, 2011, 06:26 PM

So I had the chance to take it on the freeway today and it definitely feels good. I feel more of the power down low and midrange, so I'll continue to play with the jetting.

I did notice an odd issue though. Since I have rearset adaptors, my heel of my boot will sometimes rest on the muffler. Any idea how to fix this (other than changing my foot position from ball of foot or removing the adaptors).

kbryant · April 9th, 2011, 07:37 PM

The muffler engages approximately 1.9 inches. You may slide it back a little if desired.

want1sobad · April 10th, 2011, 12:05 PM

here's mine

15" stainless can with conical tip (powder coated can, tip, and hanger band)
midpipe and band clamp (ceramic coated)

wayanlam · April 10th, 2011, 09:32 PM

^^^

that looks real good.

just a little hot if you leave it parked out in the sun for a couple minutes,

sowega · April 15th, 2011, 02:54 PM

Dropped mine off to get jetted and tuned today.

spencerkro · April 15th, 2011, 05:59 PM

What main jets are everyone using with your new exhaust? I tried a 106 (dynojet) and it seemed to bog at high speed so i switched to the 104 and it seems to run better (1100 feet elevation, 60 degrees, 60% humidity). Needles on the third clip seems to be about right for me. Right now mine are on the the third clip from the top with two washers underneath and it seems less peppy and more boggy, so i'll pry switch it back to the third clip with no washers. Out of curiosity, what is everyone else finding works well? Anyone have to switch out the stock pilot jets?

kbryant · April 15th, 2011, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spencerkro

What main jets are everyone using with your new exhaust? I tried a 106 (dynojet) and it seemed to bog at high speed so i switched to the 104 and it seems to run better (1100 feet elevation, 60 degrees, 60% humidity). Needles on the third clip seems to be about right for me. Right now mine are on the the third clip from the top with two washers underneath and it seems less peppy and more boggy, so i'll pry switch it back to the third clip with no washers. Out of curiosity, what is everyone else finding works well? Anyone have to switch out the stock pilot jets?

For your stated conditions, it would probably be better with the 104's (assuming you are not using the airbox?). It's really not recommended that you use any kind of washers under the clip positions. With what you are describing, you would definetly be running overly rich and your throttle response would be lacking. As you indicate, try the 3rd clip as designed and it should be much better. Also, with your conditions, the stock Pilot Jet will be fine. Try the adjustment at 2.2 - 2.5 turns to start.

spencerkro · April 15th, 2011, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbryant

For your stated conditions, it would probably be better with the 104's (assuming you are not using the airbox?). It's really not recommended that you use any kind of washers under the clip positions. With what you are describing, you would definetly be running overly rich and your throttle response would be lacking. As you indicate, try the 3rd clip as designed and it should be much better. Also, with your conditions, the stock Pilot Jet will be fine. Try the adjustment at 2.2 - 2.5 turns to start.

Correct, I am not using the airbox. No washers under the clip? Doesn't that raise the needle giving you more fine tuning ability? The Dynojet manual said something about putting the washers on top of the clip... that made no sense to me so I didn't put them on, and besides I didn't want the washer to fall off into the slides. I'm at 2.5 turns out and after blipping the throttle it returns very quickly to idle so I don't think I'm going to mess with them. Thanks for your help Kerry! The exhaust sounds great!

kkim · April 15th, 2011, 10:23 PM

2 washers under the clip is the same as moving the clip down to the next clip position. one washer is the thickness of half a clip position. essentially, you're presently at the 4th clip position.

The reason for washers above the clip is to help stabilize the needle from vibration.

spencerkro · April 15th, 2011, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

2 washers under the clip is the same as moving the clip down to the next clip position. one washer is the thickness of half a clip position. essentially, you're presently at the 4th clip position.

The reason for washers above the clip is to help stabilize the needle from vibration.

Ok, that's what I thought. The washers give you more FINE tuning ability.

In regards to putting washers above the clip, that makes sense now.Thanks! I'll put them on top next time I'm in there.

kkim · April 15th, 2011, 10:34 PM

Yes, I use the washers under the clips when I want to fine tune in 1/2 clip positions. when I need to use two washers, I simply move the clip to the next position on the needle, instead, and not use any washers under the clip.

sarapacman99 · April 16th, 2011, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cuongism

So I had the chance to take it on the freeway today and it definitely feels good. I feel more of the power down low and midrange, so I'll continue to play with the jetting.

I did notice an odd issue though. Since I have rearset adaptors, my heel of my boot will sometimes rest on the muffler. Any idea how to fix this (other than changing my foot position from ball of foot or removing the adaptors).

what happens to your old yoshi exhaust?

Cuongism · April 16th, 2011, 08:04 PM

Local member has dibs on it.

red · April 17th, 2011, 04:12 PM

If any of you guys that opted-in for the Area P full system group buy have a yoshi or akra CF slip-on as a take-off they want to peddle, please send me a pm.

I have a wtb in the items wanted section.

Thanks.

spencerkro · April 19th, 2011, 10:57 PM

Ive got another jetting question in regards to the new exhaust... Everything seems to be running well except when riding after I have driven WOT for more than 10 seconds. If I have it floored for a while and then left off the gas it spits and spudders and has horrible throttle response for a little while (10-15 seconds) before resuming normal performance. It has even died a couple times when going from WOT (100mph) to a dead stop. What causes this spuddering? Do I need to reduce the size of my main jets? Currently I have a dynojet 104 main in, needles on 3rd clip, screws 2.5 out, and no airbox. Thanks in advance for any advice.

kkim · April 20th, 2011, 01:50 AM

this is entirely a guess... but, did you check your float level to see what is was set at when you installed the jet kit?

spencerkro · April 20th, 2011, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

this is entirely a guess... but, did you check your float level to see what is was set at when you installed the jet kit?

I did not check that, I heard they were set right from the factory so I didn't pay any attention to them when I had the carbs torn apart. Today after coasting down a hill it died again, and this time I was only at 1/3 throttle before pulling in the clutch and coasting. I'll have to check the float levels... I'm pretty sure its not my mixture screws since when I blip the throttle it very quickly returns to Idle. Thanks again for your help Kelly.

kbryant · April 20th, 2011, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

this is entirely a guess... but, did you check your float level to see what is was set at when you installed the jet kit?

Sometimes reasonable guessing is the best place to start. Yours could be one of them and not a bad guess at all

Check your vacuum lines as well. Make sure your gas cap is venting and not vapor locking. There are many other possibilites as well. Start there.

Momaru · April 20th, 2011, 09:06 PM

Also not a bad idea to check your clutch switch (little electrical box with a pin that senses the clutch handle). Mine was very fouled with dust/road grime when I had a similar problem of the engine cutting off while coasting.

forevertwowheels · May 12th, 2011, 08:22 AM

i noticed no one mentions installing a crankcase breather element, is this not necessary? On AreaP site they say when testing they installed K&N Dual Flange Oval Air Filter and Crankcase Breather Element installed, Kleen System removed/plugged. just wondering why or why didn't people install this?
thanks for the help

want1sobad · May 12th, 2011, 08:37 AM

tko:

this should help:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ighlight=kleen

forevertwowheels · May 12th, 2011, 02:49 PM

thanks, so if i understand this correctly the crankcase breather is only for the CA model?

April 7th, 2011, 08:44 PM	#165
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	hmmm, might not be the right thread to ask this, but since we have a lot of new exhausts here im hoping that someone has one with an O2 bung welded on from the shop as reference. my question is: how long/big is the bung? would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...xgy_00_02_t_lh or do i need to get a longer bung, so that the sensor tip doesn't obstruct the pipe too much? cos they also have another one that's longer.... but i dont know which one is the one i need, lol http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...2234043&sr=1-7 that or http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...2234043&sr=1-4 that... i have the standard AreaP exhaust, so the mid pipe isnt as big as the new Race type exhaust. but i want to buy this part, and get it welded on so i can get a good reading when i go for a run at the dyno. thanks! __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

April 8th, 2011, 01:54 AM	#168
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	i really like the way the race exhaust looks, the steeper angle, and the phat headder and mid pipe... and the fact its still so nice and new! im so jealous, haha! however my GF would kick my ass if i removed the passenger peg i sorta hinted that i really liked the exhaust when the gb was still running and when she saw there was no foot peg she just said "NO WAY!" rofl __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

April 8th, 2011, 02:35 AM	#170
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	HAHA.... well as it is i have 2 Girlfriends, the bike and my gal... if i add this exhaust into the equation ill have only one GF, although she might look better with this race system, i still prefer having both girls with me, while using the standard AreaP exhaust. currently, it makes all three of us happy __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

April 8th, 2011, 09:59 AM	#172
kbryant Area P Name: Kerry Location: SoCal & South Florida Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439	Wayan - Bung length should be determined by your Wideband probe length and depending on how it senses (tip or side). It's always best to have minimal protrusion into the exhaust stream. So if you are not sure of what length, it would normally be preferred to purchase the shorter version. You can always shim/space out the probe for proper insertion depth (depending on probe thread depth). On our standard systems (like you have), we would recommend that you install it just after the collector, which would be similar to where the Euro/FI version would be on the OEM system (which is where we install them). We do offer custom installation in whatever position the customer chooses. For the Bungs you have noted, the issue with using automotive type units is primarily the material and design. Our system is made from 304 series stainless steel. Most Auto bungs are from 400 or 303 series (they may say they are 304, but it is highly unlikely....). 400 does not weld very well and will rust. 303 is easier and cheaper to machine, but also is dubious when welding. Also they do not machine in any kind of orientation shoulder, so there is not additional support or location set. One of them you have noted is steel. I don't recommend you use a steel version. Our Bungs are cnc machined from 304 series stainless steel only, which is costly and a pain. But they are done correctly and TIG weld perfectly. We also machine in a "Shoulder" so when we drill/mill the hole in the tubing, the Bung stays properly located for a smooth transition through the tube, as well as having additional support on the material. We pre-heat the component when welding (since it is so much thicker than the tubing) to assure minimal distortion with no stress cracking when cooling. Last futzed with by kbryant; April 8th, 2011 at 01:57 PM. Reason: addition

April 8th, 2011, 10:22 AM	#173
Momaru ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: Roanoke, VA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Candy Plasma Blue 250R Posts: A lot.	Rrrr! So tempting, but don't have nearly enough cash on hand to dump and I'm already so happy with my AreaP standard 18" CF... __________________________________________________ Proud member of the Blue Army

April 5th, 2011, 09:29 PM	#161
Xoulrath ninjette.org sage Name: T Location: U.S. Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): Current: '11 ZX-6R; Previous: '09 Ninjette; '08 ZX-6R (Ex-Wife '09 TU250X) Posts: 981	I don't know why, but the pictures of the exhausts here look even better than the pictures on Kerry's website! So, any YouTube videos up yet guys?

April 6th, 2011, 10:55 AM	#162
want1sobad Ninjette CPT Name: Vince Location: jacksonville, fl Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Black 08 250r Posts: A lot.	can't wait to get mine installed!!! should be picking up from the powder coater tomorrow (i blacked out the can and midpipe, also went with the conical tip). i'll get pics up asap

April 7th, 2011, 01:48 PM	#163
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	So I installed the Race Exhaust this morning. Install is fairly straightforward, but I included some installation pics and steps I took. Let me know if I did anything wrong or should have done something differently First thing is removing the old exhaust which is a Yoshi slip on. I decided to just remove it as one piece which would be easiest. Remove the two bolts from the passenger pegs. Remove bolt from midpipe. Remove 4 exhaust port flange nuts. Push the headers forward and the whole system will come off. You can see how much bigger the Area P pipes are compared to stock headers. To install the race exhaust, start by cleaning the gasket surface and adding the custom exhaust port gaskets onto the head pipe spigots. Fit in the headers which you can install individually or together as a unit. Just remember that the Merge Connector has the bend on top and that the shorter head pipe goes into the pipe with the bend. Don't tighten the flange nuts or install the retaining springs yet. Next step is to install the Mid Pipe. Position the T-Bolt clamp so that the bolt is on top facing outwards. Also, do not tighten these either. Next step is to install the Mounting Bracket to where the passenger pegs used to be. You will be re-using the old bolts and these bolts you will tighten securely (passenger peg torque specs are 18 ft lb). Time to install the muffler! First, you place the extra T-Bolt clamp onto the midpipe and then install the muffler. Don't tighten T-Bolt (notice a trend here?) Next step is to add the muffler body mounting clamp. It comes with a protective plastic sheet that I didn't really notice til reading the instructions. Install the rubber insulator strip to the mounting clamp. Now wrap the clamp around the muffler and make sure there's full contact going all the way around. Position the clamp to the outside of the mounting bracket which should help with clearance issues which I did have. Kerry provides 4 8mm washers as well with the bolt and nylock nut. Since I have rearset adjusters, my brake hose got in the way. Normally the brake hose is more forwards on stock rearsets. I used all the washers to help with the clearance and readjusted the brake hose position to clear the muffler. Now that everything is in place, start checking for any clearance issues. Check that the muffler or clamp aren't near the swingarm, brake hoses, or the brake line loop guides (which can be bent down slightly). Now it's time to start tightening everything. His instructions are to start with the head pipe flange nuts, install the springs tighten the muffler body clamp, tighten the T-Bolt clamp on the Merge Collector and then the T-Bolt clamp on the muffler. Last step is to re-install the right fairing to check for any clearance issues with the fairing. Kerry does provide washers in case it comes close to the fairings. I haven't done this step yet because I'll be installing larger jets today as well. I'm going to start with DJ 106's. Right now, time for lunch

April 7th, 2011, 02:13 PM	#164
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.

April 7th, 2011, 10:50 PM	#166
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	So I finally got around to installing the DJ 106's. I strapped on my GoPro and took it for a test run. First thing I noticed is it's louder than my Yoshi with silencer and has a different tone (gruntier). BTW, I have a 15 in, so it'll be louder than the full 18 in exhaust. Once moving, I definitely feel more pep in the lower rpms. I rode around to warm up the bike before I took it to the top end to test the new jets. I was welcomed by something interesting during my warmup. Unfortunately, I had my GoPro upside down so the angle was shooting down vs up I thought I had some great footage too. I am cruising down the left lane (about 55) of a two lane street that has no intersections until the very end of the video. The lanes open up into 3 lanes and my left lane becomes the center lane. Someone makes a right out of a parking lot onto the street I was going down, but instead of making a right into the right lane like most people, she decides to cut 3 lanes and make a right into the left lane. Her van was perpendicular to the center lane when I started braking since it blocked my path. I try to swerve left because I wasn't gonna stop in time, but she also goes to the left lane I pull up to the van and it belongs Transit Authority Link to original page on YouTube. I wish I had a better angle of the video because it's just crazy that she doesn't see me coming (nighttime with headlights). Oh well (I do have her license plate). 60 to 0 in 3-4 seconds is not too shabby. Back to the exhaust! On my way back, I took it to redline each gear to see how it feels. Unfortunately, the power may be really linear because I don't feel that power range past 9k that I normally do. It definitely pulls hard, but I don't notice that extra umph after 9k. I am going to drop down to DJ 104 to see if that brings the top end power back. When I got home, I tested throttle response to blips of 3k. It hangs coming back down so idle is leanish. Will play with the screws before I switch back down to 104 first. Jetting...such a tedious process

April 8th, 2011, 01:29 AM	#167
CynicalC ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Colin Location: Bay Area Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): '96 EX250 Posts: A lot.	Wow that was a close call. I would make a call about that one for sure. Maybe that woman needs a deskjob for a while.

April 8th, 2011, 02:14 AM	#169
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	that's easily fixed... new exhaust, new/no GF.

April 8th, 2011, 02:43 AM	#171
ungluck sleeper Name: chris Location: Hawaii Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '10 690 duke Posts: 558	304 stainless piping?

April 8th, 2011, 06:43 PM	#174
Boosted139 ninjette.org guru Name: Justin Location: Central NJ Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2009 Triumph Daytona 675 Posts: 334	Finally got to fire her up tonight, I'm still grinning ear to ear. If all goes well with the weather, hope to tune the jetting tomorrow

April 8th, 2011, 06:49 PM	#175
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	hi Kerry, thanks for the detailed reply so what i plan to use will be the Bosch wide band sensor: which has the sensor on the tip, and not the sides. regarding the bung material, now you have me slightly worried about getting them from Amazon.com hehe... how much would you charge for the bung if i were to buy one from you instead? i can have it sent to my office in LA again like the replacement bracket you sent me last year, since i have someone that will be coming back to bali in a month or two who can hand carry it for me. regarding the welding, i think i will bring it to the DEUS workshop, they have a tig welder, and ive seen their welding work and it looked really good (like 10000 times better than most of the local welgers, lol) i will advise them to preheat the bung, since its thicker than the exhaust pipe. regarding the weld location, if i understood correctly, it should go where the two pipes from the header join up into the mid pipe? have a good week end! thanks, W. __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

April 8th, 2011, 07:23 PM	#176
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	Bung is m18x1.5 i think. It's same size as sparkplug.

April 9th, 2011, 06:26 PM	#179
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	So I had the chance to take it on the freeway today and it definitely feels good. I feel more of the power down low and midrange, so I'll continue to play with the jetting. I did notice an odd issue though. Since I have rearset adaptors, my heel of my boot will sometimes rest on the muffler. Any idea how to fix this (other than changing my foot position from ball of foot or removing the adaptors).

April 9th, 2011, 07:37 PM	#180
kbryant Area P Name: Kerry Location: SoCal & South Florida Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439	The muffler engages approximately 1.9 inches. You may slide it back a little if desired.

April 10th, 2011, 09:32 PM	#182
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	^^^ that looks real good. just a little hot if you leave it parked out in the sun for a couple minutes, __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

April 15th, 2011, 02:54 PM	#183
sowega ninjette.org guru Name: Ed Location: Atlanta, GA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 899, 748, 250, 250, 70 Posts: 348	Dropped mine off to get jetted and tuned today.

April 15th, 2011, 05:59 PM	#184
spencerkro ninjette.org member Name: United States Location: Iowa Falls, Iowa Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 54	Main Jets What main jets are everyone using with your new exhaust? I tried a 106 (dynojet) and it seemed to bog at high speed so i switched to the 104 and it seems to run better (1100 feet elevation, 60 degrees, 60% humidity). Needles on the third clip seems to be about right for me. Right now mine are on the the third clip from the top with two washers underneath and it seems less peppy and more boggy, so i'll pry switch it back to the third clip with no washers. Out of curiosity, what is everyone else finding works well? Anyone have to switch out the stock pilot jets?

April 15th, 2011, 10:23 PM	#187
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	2 washers under the clip is the same as moving the clip down to the next clip position. one washer is the thickness of half a clip position. essentially, you're presently at the 4th clip position. The reason for washers above the clip is to help stabilize the needle from vibration.

April 15th, 2011, 10:34 PM	#189
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Yes, I use the washers under the clips when I want to fine tune in 1/2 clip positions. when I need to use two washers, I simply move the clip to the next position on the needle, instead, and not use any washers under the clip.

April 16th, 2011, 08:04 PM	#191
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	Local member has dibs on it.

April 17th, 2011, 04:12 PM	#192
red ninjette.org member Name: DJ Location: DFW, TX Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): TR7, Trident, SuperIII, BMW, HD, Duc, Vespa, MP3 Posts: 83	If any of you guys that opted-in for the Area P full system group buy have a yoshi or akra CF slip-on as a take-off they want to peddle, please send me a pm. I have a wtb in the items wanted section. Thanks. __________________________________________________ 2010 Ninja 250R SE - I got this bike for my wife. It was a good trade.

April 19th, 2011, 10:57 PM	#193
spencerkro ninjette.org member Name: United States Location: Iowa Falls, Iowa Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 54	Ive got another jetting question in regards to the new exhaust... Everything seems to be running well except when riding after I have driven WOT for more than 10 seconds. If I have it floored for a while and then left off the gas it spits and spudders and has horrible throttle response for a little while (10-15 seconds) before resuming normal performance. It has even died a couple times when going from WOT (100mph) to a dead stop. What causes this spuddering? Do I need to reduce the size of my main jets? Currently I have a dynojet 104 main in, needles on 3rd clip, screws 2.5 out, and no airbox. Thanks in advance for any advice.

April 20th, 2011, 01:50 AM	#194
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	this is entirely a guess... but, did you check your float level to see what is was set at when you installed the jet kit?

April 20th, 2011, 09:06 PM	#197
Momaru ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: Roanoke, VA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Candy Plasma Blue 250R Posts: A lot.	Also not a bad idea to check your clutch switch (little electrical box with a pin that senses the clutch handle). Mine was very fouled with dust/road grime when I had a similar problem of the engine cutting off while coasting. __________________________________________________ Proud member of the Blue Army

May 12th, 2011, 08:22 AM	#198
forevertwowheels ninjette.org member Name: TKO Location: Winnipeg, MB Join Date: Jan 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2011 Honda CBR600RR Posts: 50	i noticed no one mentions installing a crankcase breather element, is this not necessary? On AreaP site they say when testing they installed K&N Dual Flange Oval Air Filter and Crankcase Breather Element installed, Kleen System removed/plugged. just wondering why or why didn't people install this? thanks for the help __________________________________________________ Projekt D Fender Eliminater / DMP Integrated Taillight / Proton Flushmounts / Area P 18" CF High Mount Race System / Kleen Air System Removed / Airbox Removed / K&N R-0990 / DynoJet Jet Kit

May 12th, 2011, 08:37 AM	#199
want1sobad Ninjette CPT Name: Vince Location: jacksonville, fl Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Black 08 250r Posts: A lot.	tko: this should help: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ighlight=kleen

May 12th, 2011, 02:49 PM	#200
forevertwowheels ninjette.org member Name: TKO Location: Winnipeg, MB Join Date: Jan 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2011 Honda CBR600RR Posts: 50	thanks, so if i understand this correctly the crankcase breather is only for the CA model? __________________________________________________ Projekt D Fender Eliminater / DMP Integrated Taillight / Proton Flushmounts / Area P 18" CF High Mount Race System / Kleen Air System Removed / Airbox Removed / K&N R-0990 / DynoJet Jet Kit

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Area P - Group Buy - 2014 (April 19th through May 4th)	kbryant	Motorcycle-related	252	January 15th, 2015 07:17 AM
Group Buy: PREGEN- Area P Full Exhaust System	kkim	Motorcycle-related	170	October 9th, 2012 12:19 PM
Area P Group Buy	WhiteRice	Motorcycle-related	141	December 17th, 2011 10:28 AM
X RACE Rear set Group Buy	ztrack157	Motorcycle-related	74	October 8th, 2011 08:18 PM