Headlight problem

puma22 · August 9th, 2013, 03:50 PM

Ok, so I bought my 08 250 several months ago. The previous owner had installed blue HID's that worked fine. Until one time i saw smoke coming out from under right black panel (that snaps off). When I took the right panel off, I saw the black wires melting. I replaced the connections where the wires had melted and continued to ride, and the headlights worked fine.

A few weeks later my headlights starting flickering until they stopped working.
I checked the fuse box and found the headlight fuse to be out. However, everytime I replace the fuse, it would blow out again.

Not sure what the problem is. Do I need new headlights? Or a new HID Kit?

Note: The 08 comes stock with a 7 BS battery, but when I got the bike it needed to be replaced so I read that the 9 BS has more capacity, and so that is what I got and installed. Don't know if this has any affect on it.

Also, both low and high beams don't work.

Grishbok · August 9th, 2013, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puma22

Ok, so I bought my 08 250 several months ago. The previous owner had installed blue HID's that worked fine. Until one time i saw smoke coming out from under right black panel (that snaps off). When I took the right panel off, I saw the black wires melting. I replaced the connections where the wires had melted and continued to ride, and the headlights worked fine.

A few weeks later my headlights starting flickering until they stopped working.
I checked the fuse box and found the headlight fuse to be out. However, everytime I replace the fuse, it would blow out again.

Not sure what the problem is. Do I need new headlights? Or a new HID Kit?

Note: The 08 comes stock with a 7 BS battery, but when I got the bike it needed to be replaced so I read that the 9 BS has more capacity, and so that is what I got and installed. Don't know if this has any affect on it.

Also, both low and high beams don't work.

The fuse blows to prevent a power surge. The HID ballasts could be bad, or there is bad wiring. I would throw some normal halogens in there and see if the fuse blows. "When in doubt, return to stock and check it out."

puma22 · August 13th, 2013, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grishbok

The fuse blows to prevent a power surge. The HID ballasts could be bad, or there is bad wiring. I would throw some normal halogens in there and see if the fuse blows. "When in doubt, return to stock and check it out."

I don't have the stock. If the Ballasts are out then I have to buy new HID's basically? Do you know why this could have happened? I want to know why the wires melted in the first place. I think the HID's were taking in too much current from the battery, but I'm not sure if that's the reason.

So should I buy a new pair of HID's or should I buy a pair of stock ones?

Grishbok · August 13th, 2013, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puma22

I don't have the stock. If the Ballasts are out then I have to buy new HID's basically? Do you know why this could have happened? I want to know why the wires melted in the first place. I think the HID's were taking in too much current from the battery, but I'm not sure if that's the reason.

So should I buy a new pair of HID's or should I buy a pair of stock ones?

If you have a higher capacity battery, replace it with stock or comparable. Then replaced the ballasts

Asspire · August 13th, 2013, 09:53 PM

disconnect ballast, check voltage at factory headlight socket, should be same as battery voltage +/- .1 volts. If more, trace wiring and repair/replace melted/short sections.

then remove HID bulbs and ballast, smash with hammer and throw into a fire.

buy these:
http://www.powerbulbs.com/ca/product...eadlight-bulbs

install and ride bike.

if that doesn't work, buy an R6.

puma22 · August 14th, 2013, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asspire

disconnect ballast, check voltage at factory headlight socket, should be same as battery voltage +/- .1 volts. If more, trace wiring and repair/replace melted/short sections.

then remove HID bulbs and ballast, smash with hammer and throw into a fire.

buy these:
http://www.powerbulbs.com/ca/product...eadlight-bulbs

install and ride bike.

if that doesn't work, buy an R6.

Got it, will try and will post back..... (picks of my new r6

)

Thanks.

puma22 · August 14th, 2013, 06:58 PM

Ok, Good news.

Disconnected the HID's and ballasts, and thankfully had the stock headlights hanging around so I connected them and fixed up some wiring where it had melted as I mentioned before. I started up the bike and Walla! Low and High beams work fine.
Thankfully it was an easy fix.

I'm still thinking of getting an R6 though

Here are some pics of the ballasts I removed, the wiring that I redid, and before(w/HIDs) and after(w/out HIDs) pics of my bike.

I gotta say the the HID's looked sick, but I'm happy that I have headlights now.

Thanks Asspire, and I'll look into getting those headlights you posted the link to.

Asspire · August 14th, 2013, 09:43 PM

that second pic, is that three yellow wires? and how did you put them back together?

Those look like stator wires, and that looks like a horrible wiring job. That should not be melted unless something is seriously wrong. A heavy load should kill the voltage regulator first, not overload the stator wiring.

please read and follow this test and let me know the outcome (might wanna read that thread too to get a better understanding of what i'm getting at):

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...9&postcount=80

edit: also, those three yellow wires are carrying A/C voltage be careful not to touch them or short them when bike is running.

puma22 · August 15th, 2013, 03:02 PM

Ok. So I'm by my bike now. I have read the thread u posted and learned a lot of new things including what a strator is.

Results:

All results were good, except for last test. The ACV reading on the voltmeter was 11.4 at idle between all the stator connection wires. When I reved up the engine it turned to 12.0 - 12.2 ish. This means a weak strator?
The DCV when idle of the bike is 12.6 and when revd is around 13.0. So the strator is not completely malfunctioning. Correct? I don't know what could have caused the strator connections to have melted.

Other thing: I want to repair the strator connection using the proper connection socket. I used single connectors for each yellow wire and connected them, as you can see in the pic. Then I put electrical tape around each wire. I couldn't find the connection socket at harbor freight nor home depot. Any ideas on where I can find it?

Anything else you wanted to know @Asspire ?

Asspire · August 16th, 2013, 10:20 AM

Did you test it with the engine warmed up?

also, are you testing with the STATOR wires disconnected or plugged in like the picture?

If tested disconnect with 12 VAC @ 4,000 rpm with a warm engine, stator is FUBAR. Remember that Amperage increases as voltage decreases, so a high load from the voltage regulator to a stator with low output will cause a high amp draw on those wires, and any resistance (i.e. the connectors) in that line will create heat that will melt the wires/connector. I would also test the voltage regulator as well (should be in the link i posted), as it may have been damaged from the current draw.

and if that doesn't work, Try This

dfox · August 16th, 2013, 10:48 AM

i'm not entirely sure why you had issues with melting wire insulation there, but that wiring job isn't something I'd trust. Figure out your issue first, then address the connections...

I'd recommend soldering any wire connections you need to make. Butt connectors come loose easily on vehicles from the vibrations/bumps/etc. and can easily overheat if it wasn't crimped properly. Also, invest in some shrink wrap. It's more durable and heat resistant than electrical tape, and won't unravel over time. Relying on electrical tape to cover bare wire is just asking for issues down the road (i've done it and learned my lesson the hard way).

You can get some pretty good covered male/female connectors from an electrical supply place (radio shack will work if you don't have anything better) that I'd recommend using if you can't find the proper plug. Those exposed connectors may cause problems in the future if it wears through the electrical tape (or shrinkwrap for that matter).

August 9th, 2013, 03:50 PM	#1
puma22 ninjette.org member Name: Youssef Location: New Jersey Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 15	Headlight problem Ok, so I bought my 08 250 several months ago. The previous owner had installed blue HID's that worked fine. Until one time i saw smoke coming out from under right black panel (that snaps off). When I took the right panel off, I saw the black wires melting. I replaced the connections where the wires had melted and continued to ride, and the headlights worked fine. A few weeks later my headlights starting flickering until they stopped working. I checked the fuse box and found the headlight fuse to be out. However, everytime I replace the fuse, it would blow out again. Not sure what the problem is. Do I need new headlights? Or a new HID Kit? Note: The 08 comes stock with a 7 BS battery, but when I got the bike it needed to be replaced so I read that the 9 BS has more capacity, and so that is what I got and installed. Don't know if this has any affect on it. Also, both low and high beams don't work.

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August 13th, 2013, 09:53 PM	#5
Asspire Fix It Till Ya Break It Name: Asspyre Location: T.Dot Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623	disconnect ballast, check voltage at factory headlight socket, should be same as battery voltage +/- .1 volts. If more, trace wiring and repair/replace melted/short sections. then remove HID bulbs and ballast, smash with hammer and throw into a fire. buy these: http://www.powerbulbs.com/ca/product...eadlight-bulbs install and ride bike. if that doesn't work, buy an R6.

August 14th, 2013, 09:43 PM	#8
Asspire Fix It Till Ya Break It Name: Asspyre Location: T.Dot Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623	that second pic, is that three yellow wires? and how did you put them back together? Those look like stator wires, and that looks like a horrible wiring job. That should not be melted unless something is seriously wrong. A heavy load should kill the voltage regulator first, not overload the stator wiring. please read and follow this test and let me know the outcome (might wanna read that thread too to get a better understanding of what i'm getting at): http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...9&postcount=80 edit: also, those three yellow wires are carrying A/C voltage be careful not to touch them or short them when bike is running.

August 16th, 2013, 10:20 AM	#10
Asspire Fix It Till Ya Break It Name: Asspyre Location: T.Dot Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623	Did you test it with the engine warmed up? also, are you testing with the STATOR wires disconnected or plugged in like the picture? If tested disconnect with 12 VAC @ 4,000 rpm with a warm engine, stator is FUBAR. Remember that Amperage increases as voltage decreases, so a high load from the voltage regulator to a stator with low output will cause a high amp draw on those wires, and any resistance (i.e. the connectors) in that line will create heat that will melt the wires/connector. I would also test the voltage regulator as well (should be in the link i posted), as it may have been damaged from the current draw. and if that doesn't work, Try This

August 16th, 2013, 10:48 AM	#11
dfox ninjette.org sage Name: Fox Location: Boston Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 08 250R Posts: 881	i'm not entirely sure why you had issues with melting wire insulation there, but that wiring job isn't something I'd trust. Figure out your issue first, then address the connections... I'd recommend soldering any wire connections you need to make. Butt connectors come loose easily on vehicles from the vibrations/bumps/etc. and can easily overheat if it wasn't crimped properly. Also, invest in some shrink wrap. It's more durable and heat resistant than electrical tape, and won't unravel over time. Relying on electrical tape to cover bare wire is just asking for issues down the road (i've done it and learned my lesson the hard way). You can get some pretty good covered male/female connectors from an electrical supply place (radio shack will work if you don't have anything better) that I'd recommend using if you can't find the proper plug. Those exposed connectors may cause problems in the future if it wears through the electrical tape (or shrinkwrap for that matter).