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Old December 30th, 2013, 03:02 PM   #1
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Drilling off and replacing bar ends

I'm trying to remove a bent handlebar. The first attempt resulted in me stripping the head. Ninja Wiki has an article that shows says just drilling off the screw and replacing it is an option.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removin...acing_bar_ends

Has anyone done this? I have a 1/4 drill bit and I'm ready to give it a go.
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Old December 30th, 2013, 03:07 PM   #2
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cut a slit into it with a dremel. one big enough to stick a quarter into it. now heat it up with the torch, and use pliers to hold the quarter (or really really big flat head) and twist it off
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:30 AM   #3
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If you can't unscrew them, you can drill them pretty easily. Use a 1/4" or larger bit and go at it. It'll take a minute or two. The weights will drop off once you have drilled through the screw heads. Then you can remove the remains of the screws with locking pliers (or don't bother, if you are replacing the bar). Replacement screws can be found at a hardware store.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 09:20 AM   #4
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If you can't unscrew them, you can drill them pretty easily. Use a 1/4" or larger bit and go at it. It'll take a minute or two. The weights will drop off once you have drilled through the screw heads. Then you can remove the remains of the screws with locking pliers (or don't bother, if you are replacing the bar). Replacement screws can be found at a hardware store.
Well I gave this a go but I screwed it up good. When I started drilling the screw head didn't come off. So I kept drilling and went too far. When I did finally get the screw head off I had drilled into the screw threads themselves. I went way too far.

Anyways, I got the bar end off but now the screw is just barely protruding from the handlebar. There is a little bit sticking out that I might be able to grab and use to twist the rest free. It's going to be close though. First I need to get a torch to loosen the lock tight.

If that doesn't work I'll have to just replace the handlebar.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 03:42 PM   #5
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Got the bar off! With a little propane torch to loosen the locktight I was able to get a hold of the screw with a set of plyers and slowly work the screw out.

Now I just need to get my slightly bent bar unbent. Or failing that just replace.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 05:54 PM   #6
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Not that it matters now but I took them off with the drill method from the 250 FAQ. Works like a charm
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Old January 8th, 2014, 02:13 PM   #7
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I made a YouTube video about how I remove those damn weights. I wouldn't even attempt using a screw driver EVER. Heat the tip up with a blow torch first to loosen the locktite then use an impact wrench/driver. The video will show how easy they come off with an impact:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=1khhRhv4_6c
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Old January 8th, 2014, 04:21 PM   #8
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I made a YouTube video about how I remove those damn weights. I wouldn't even attempt using a screw driver EVER. Heat the tip up with a blow torch first to loosen the locktite then use an impact wrench/driver. The video will show how easy they come off with an impact:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=1khhRhv4_6c
I did the same thing with an impact wrench. After about 10 impacts with the wrench, they spun off easily. Did not even have to apply heat. By far the easiest way to do it!
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Old January 8th, 2014, 04:35 PM   #9
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with heat correctly applied, it takes a single wack from the impact driver to remove the screw. alternatively the sawzall works well to remove the offending bar along with throttle tube and anythign else in the way.
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Old January 8th, 2014, 07:41 PM   #10
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My experience confirmed the importance of heat to melt the locktight. I'm sure numerous methods would work after you melt the locktight.

I've seen the handlebar removed without heat but it doesn't always work. Heat seems to consistently work.
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Old January 8th, 2014, 11:53 PM   #11
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I wouldn't even attempt using a screw driver EVER.
Go on...
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Old January 9th, 2014, 06:09 AM   #12
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Go on...
Ive learned that heat+impact driver is the way to go... THE HARD WAY
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Old January 9th, 2014, 06:24 AM   #13
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with heat correctly applied, it takes a single wack from the impact driver to remove the screw. alternatively the sawzall works well to remove the offending bar along with throttle tube and anythign else in the way.
LOL
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Old January 9th, 2014, 06:48 AM   #14
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I can't believe that screw didn't come out. It was the same bar end we took off when you got the bike and I did that one with the screw driver from the tool kit and a pair of pliers for more torque. The locktight should have been non issue since we did not put more on?

This will be the second time the bar gets bent back straight, each time it got bent it becomes weaker, I am thinking it might be a better idea to just buy a used complete bar, that way you get new bar end + new screw as well and there will be no question about its structural integrity.

Before you get to excited and start putting everything back together next time I'm around we should shim your carb needles quick.

On side not I have removed 3 bar ends with just a screw driver and a pair of pliers with no issues.
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Old January 15th, 2014, 07:52 PM   #15
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I can't believe that screw didn't come out. It was the same bar end we took off when you got the bike and I did that one with the screw driver from the tool kit and a pair of pliers for more torque. The locktight should have been non issue since we did not put more on?

This will be the second time the bar gets bent back straight, each time it got bent it becomes weaker, I am thinking it might be a better idea to just buy a used complete bar, that way you get new bar end + new screw as well and there will be no question about its structural integrity.

Before you get to excited and start putting everything back together next time I'm around we should shim your carb needles quick.

On side not I have removed 3 bar ends with just a screw driver and a pair of pliers with no issues.
It's not the same bar end. The one we took off was on the right side. This one is the left one.

I'm not sure why it didn't come off easier. I bought a phillips head attachment for a socket wrench but it still stripped the head. I'm thinking maybe the cold might have made a difference? Locktight plus it being winter and all?

I might just buy a new/used handlebar but I figured it made sense to try and fix this one.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 07:10 AM   #16
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yeah I remember now, it was the other side. And yeah if you just used a normal Phillips head bit it is understandable that it would have stripped. It really needs to be a perfect fit.

I think we should mess with the fairings a bit and then paint them, we can talk more about it next time I'm around.

Keep an eye on the market place here for used bars often some good deals to be had, but since it is the other bar we can bend it back. If you don't have tools just hang tight and we can try and straighten it like we did last one.
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