Trouble-shooting Autoswitch/GD opener

[headshrink]

I have been enjoying my Autoswitch AS5PG2 since I installed it last December, but I have started having issues with it this summer. It seems to work effectively only intermittently lately... sometimes it has to be VERY close to the stable door opener (decreased range), and sometimes it doesn't work at all. Overall, I THINK it works more consistently in the morning, so I don't know how significant that is. It isn't obvious, like super cool temps, to super hot temps, otherwise I might assume that. The LED indicator on the Autoswitch that indicates it has power, and when it is "transmitting" does not show any signs of trouble. In other words, it lights up every time, regardless of if the GD would open or not. According to the company that makes it, this indicates the Autoswitch itself is functioning correctly. I don't know if it is THAT simple, but it has me direct my attention next directly at the GD opener remote itself (the Autoswitch is basically a fancy relay that connects the contact points on the GD opener re mote's button).

I next went to rule-out the opener's remote as the culprit, although skeptical it is the problem, because when I physically hit the button on the remote, the opener operates normally. The garage door opener remote takes a 3V button battery. I tested the battery to be 3.18V, but decided to replace it anyways to see if even a slight drop in voltage would effect it significantly. The new battery tested at 3.26V. It seemed to function fine a few times, then had problems again. I tested the battery AGAIN, to see if it was draining. The battery was still fine.

Next, I tested the solder points for the wire that connects to the remotes button to the Autoswitch. I confirmed with my multimeter that there is no continuity between the points when the button is not pushed, and there is when the button is pushed. So again, everything APPEARS to be fine with the remote.

I turned my attention to the GD opener itself. Both remotes work perfectly. I even added wire to the antenna for extra measure, although we have never had range or interference issues with it.

I'm stumped now.... According to all the trouble-shooting on the website, the Autoswitch is operating perfectly, but it isn't working. But when I physically hit the remote, the remote works fine. And all my tests turned out normal. I don't want to have to buy another one if in the end it turns out to be a problem with the remote, and vice versa (remember, I'm the guy who replaced his engine and carbs for no good reason).

Any ideas?

[headshrink]

I have been enjoying my Autoswitch AS5PG2since I installed it last December, but I have started having issues with it this summer. It seems to work effectively only intermittently lately... sometimes it has to be VERY close to the stable door opener (decreased range), and sometimes it doesn't work at all. Overall, I THINK it works more consistently in the morning, so I don't know how significant that is. It isn't obvious, like super cool temps, to super hot temps, otherwise I might assume that. The LED indicator on the Autoswitch that indicates it has power, and when it is "transmitting" does not show any signs of trouble. In other words, it lights up every time, regardless of if the GD would open or not. According to the company that makes it, this indicates the Autoswitch itself is functioning correctly. I don't know if it is THAT simple, but it has me direct my attention next directly at the GD opener remote itself (the Autoswitch is basically a fancy relay that connects the contact points on the GD opener re mote's button).

I next went to rule-out the opener's remote as the culprit, although skeptical it is the problem, because when I physically hit the button on the remote, the opener operates normally. The garage door opener remote takes a 3V button battery. I tested the battery to be 3.18V, but decided to replace it anyways to see if even a slight drop in voltage would effect it significantly. The new battery tested at 3.26V. It seemed to function fine a few times, then had problems again. I tested the battery AGAIN, to see if it was draining. The battery was still fine.

Next, I tested the solder points for the wire that connects to the remotes button to the Autoswitch. I confirmed with my multimeter that there is no continuity between the points when the button is not pushed, and there is when the button is pushed. So again, everything APPEARS to be fine with the remote.

I turned my attention to the GD opener itself. Both remotes work perfectly. I even added wire to the antenna for extra measure, although we have never had range or interference issues with it.

I'm stumped now.... According to all the trouble-shooting on the website, the Autoswitch is operating perfectly, but it isn't working. But when I physically hit the remote, the remote works fine. And all my tests turned out normal. I don't want to have to buy another one if in the end it turns out to be a problem with the remote, and vice versa (remember, I'm the guy who replaced his engine and carbs for no good reason).

Any ideas?

[ninja250]

Pull the wire back off the antenna that you added. You may have thrown off the frequency.

Usually antennae are "tuned". Adding to them or subtracting from them can mess up the mojo all together.

I don't know if that will help, but thought I'd try.

Hey fix that stinkin' link for me too.

when I used to have my first GSXR in 2005 I put a "black box" on it from a company on ebay that let me open my garage door from the end of my street, for quick 5/0 escapes. lol
It activated by flicking the highbeams.

For some reason I think they made those illegal! I don't see them on ebay anymore.

Now all they have is the ones that tap into the stock remotes.

I think it was because you could go around playing with the four switches and get it to open other people's garages that have garage genie openers. lol

Worse comes to worse, you can always go grab a tiny tiny 12v spdt relay from radio shack and use it for the relay to activate your remote, and eliminate the "other guys" all together. Use your highbeam switch to activate the relay coil.
Let me know if you need a quick MS paint schematic.

We hot glued such a relay to the underside of Kevin's gauges recently without trouble and it's blinking LED's when he shifts on his 250R

[headshrink]

I think I understand the concept you are getting at, from my brief experience with CB radios, about the antenna. The added wire was recently added this past week, so it is more of an attempt to fix what was already wrong. I had a garage door guy out last week to fix a broken gear assembly, and he told me about a client who got interference from overhead power lines (her remote only worked inside the garage). He added a wire to her opener that reached all the way outside. He said it worked for her after he did that. Maybe these work a little different?

Your idea about the DIY relay is actually a really GOOD one. I think I'll take a look at that option once I exhaust any other possibilities with my current unit. First, I think I'll switch remotes with my wife, and see if that makes a difference. I'll also email the company, and see what they say.... if there is a short in the lead that is soldered to the remote button, I'm wondering if the LED indicator would still light. If it is an independent circuit, I'm thinking that would explain it, but if it needs to see current come through that lead, then I've got nothing.

If I end up going with the DIY option, you may have to put up with a couple of technical questions.
That could potentially be a nifty official Ninjette DIY project

[Alex]

/merged the two dupes I saw?

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by Alex

/merged the two dupes I saw?

Yes, thank you; I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out.

That does explain why I had to redo the link so many times (working in too many tabs).

[ninja250]

Thanks to the magic of the internet I can now prove I had an R6 in 2005 and I also put a garage door opener deali bob on it!
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20544

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by ninja250

Thanks to the magic of the internet I can now prove I had an R6 in 2005 and I also put a garage door opener deali bob on it!
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20544

I'm surprised more people don't do it.

[NathanF]

Bob,
This won't be helpful for you, but I've had a similar situation with two of those cheap RF lamp controllers. (ie, the little thing you can plug a lamp or whatever into, then you can remotely turn on and off.) Randomly would not work, or would work like a few feet away, but nothing more.

I tried everything, brand new batteries, taking the thing apart and looking for bad solder joints, etc.. The best I could determine is that they are cheap, poorly made pieces of junk. You could be dealing with a similar situation.

Sometimes once the magic blue smoke is out, you can't put it back in.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by NathanF

Bob,
This won't be helpful for you, but I've had a similar situation with two of those cheap RF lamp controllers. (ie, the little thing you can plug a lamp or whatever into, then you can remotely turn on and off.) Randomly would not work, or would work like a few feet away, but nothing more.

I tried everything, brand new batteries, taking the thing apart and looking for bad solder joints, etc.. The best I could determine is that they are cheap, poorly made pieces of junk. You could be dealing with a similar situation.

Sometimes once the magic blue smoke is out, you can't put it back in.

Ah, you must be talking about X10 controllers?
I used to use those in my office to control "call lights." They are problematic. I know the X10 devices have to be on the same circuit, or they don't work at all. Those that do work are still susceptible to all sorts of interference, but that can be somewhat improved with filters.... or better yet, going to some of the later technologies that are much more reliable. Needless to say, now I hardwire the "call lights," and like it soooo much better.

[NathanF]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Ah, you must be talking about X10 controllers?
I used to use those in my office to control "call lights." They are problematic. I know the X10 devices have to be on the same circuit, or they don't work at all. Those that do work are still susceptible to all sorts of interference, but that can be somewhat improved with filters.... or better yet, going to some of the later technologies that are much more reliable. Needless to say, now I hardwire the "call lights," and like it soooo much better.

Actually, I'm talking about these sort of things: http://www.harborfreight.com/wireles...tch-98311.html

Funny that you mention X10 though; doing some home automation might be one of my winter projects this year.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by NathanF

Actually, I'm talking about these sort of things: http://www.harborfreight.com/wireles...tch-98311.html

Funny that you mention X10 though; doing some home automation might be one of my winter projects this year.

Maybe that one works with rf then...