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Old October 11th, 2012, 01:48 PM   #1
papawhellie
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$200 ninja running now

I finally got a good deal on a bike that I didn't have to spend 500 on to get it going. I am a fan of the older stuff and sometimes have to drag them to the truck as they have been INOP for so long the axles are frozen up.

I got the ninja running. I will have to procure a few parts. It seems to miss some in the mid rpm's. One of the needles was bent pretty good and I should have taken more time in straightening it. Would the bent needle be the cause of the surging? It seems to do fine from 11 to 13k. 4k to 10k is where the problem is. Anybody got an extra needle? I can paypal you a few bucks for a used one that has some life left in it. I am impatient so my bowls were leaking after my initial carburetor cleaning. Because I didn't want to wait 2 weeks for bowl gaskets I bought some gas resistant gasket permatex and used it in place of the orings. As much as I have cussed this stuff over the years and called people morons for using it I have sunk to their level. I may cuss it later but I am on two wheels today because of it. I am going to attempt to replace that needle without removing the carbs when I get one.


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Old October 11th, 2012, 01:52 PM   #2
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Also a note here after cleaning the carbs and unclogging the pilot jets the bike still would not run with gas. When I had them off the second time I popped the mixture caps off and set them to 2 1/2 out. Also installed new plugs. There is no better feeling than hearing something roar to life from the dead!
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Old October 11th, 2012, 01:55 PM   #3
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Good work, I'm jealous

Got one for $650, thought I was doing well, it had been stored for 7 years and the fairing was in pieces. It's very rewarding bringing them back from the dead.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 01:57 PM   #4
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Oh man she needs a lot of TLC! glad you got her running.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 02:43 PM   #5
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Only 8700 miles. I think maybe she went down and owner got scared off.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 02:50 PM   #6
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I have 2 front turns that the PO of my bike gave me with the bike. Brand new still in packing (guy didn't tell me the bases of them that mount to the fairing were missing from the fairings). Looks like you have the bases but no turns, I'd be willing to let these turns go for a couple bucks + shipping if you're interested.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 03:05 PM   #7
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Old October 11th, 2012, 03:23 PM   #8
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congratulations. fun project
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Old October 11th, 2012, 04:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02337 View Post
I have 2 front turns that the PO of my bike gave me with the bike. Brand new still in packing (guy didn't tell me the bases of them that mount to the fairing were missing from the fairings). Looks like you have the bases but no turns, I'd be willing to let these turns go for a couple bucks + shipping if you're interested.
I would be interested. PM me a price shipped to 30293.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 04:21 PM   #10
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I am missing some bolts to put my fairings on. Anyone have a size and quantity count. I saw ebay sellers were selling 5mm x 15 bolts. Is this right or is that just up front? Is the windscreen the whole faring or just around the instrument cluster? I get bolts from here
http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_sock...m_x_0.8mm.aspx

I use a lot of 6mm sockets in stainless for case screws and have been unable to beat their prices. Have to have a sizable order to justify their shipping cost.
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Old October 12th, 2012, 04:24 PM   #11
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Needing advice

I don't know if I should start a new thread or just continue here. I fillled my tank today and it leaks gas around the left blot shown here.



Drips out the fairing. I pulled the bolt and it just poured out. Put some sealant on it but it still leaked. Why would this bolt go into the gas tank or has someone forced a bolt too long in there?

I rode it some today and the dead spot is from 6000 to 8000 rpm's. As I said previously one needle is bent pretty bad. Can someone ster me to the washer shimming of the needles? Is this something I neeed to do when I replace the needle?

Anyone have direct instructions on troubleshooting the start switch/ Does it ground to complete the circuit or is it breaking the hot?
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Old October 12th, 2012, 04:44 PM   #12
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So that means that someone put too long of a bolt on the upper fairing hole. The bottom bolt is a 20mm top is 18mm. Very common on the pregens, Kawasaki did a recall as some of them were damaged from the factory you can run your vin online and see if you're affected.

Jb weld and most other products will degrade due to the ethanol in the gas now, only thing I found to work is this stuff called. Belzona used to repair tanks fuel tanks and navy ship hulls as well as caterpillar engine blocks(crazy stuff but also expensive). I as well bought my bike with someone who put the wrong bolt in.

If you empty the tank and take it somewhere I'm sure you can get it welded.
As far as the mid range stumble it could very well be from that bent needle as it may be throwing off the fuel flow from the jet.

Also I'm going to pm you about those turns too!
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Old October 12th, 2012, 07:54 PM   #13
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Extremely common for someone to puncture the gas tank there. Patch fixes are temporary, some last longer than others.
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Old October 14th, 2012, 07:17 PM   #14
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thumper64 had the same problem right there. get some jbweld (water weld) it bonds good even with gas. its actualy made for gas tanks. or take the ank off. drain weld. n hav a welder run a bead along that tab
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Old October 15th, 2012, 05:58 AM   #15
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=116900

OK, I think I have a real fix and I need someone local to try it with since I have to buy enough of the stuff for two tanks. I already have a couple things for you, so I thought I'd point you this way.

Does it sound like a plan? Should I go ahead and order the epoxy?
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Old October 15th, 2012, 06:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=116900

OK, I think I have a real fix and I need someone local to try it with since I have to buy enough of the stuff for two tanks. I already have a couple things for you, so I thought I'd point you this way.

Does it sound like a plan? Should I go ahead and order the epoxy?
I don't really need to coat my tank and the film from a coating would be very thin. I will research it more. I wish we could get behind it to put a nut on a bolt with an oring and that would solve the problem. I am new to this bike and have not looked at how the fairing mounts so you know more than I about that.I have a little oxy/acetylene set if you wanted to get together and try and braise them up. We could fill them with water and fix them, wash out and reinstall. My schedule is open if you want to come down one day.I don't have any rods and no experience beyond soldering copper as a plumber but that is a permanent way to fix it.

Other options? claims to be gas resistant...http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GU0QG/...hvptwo=&hvqmt=

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_2_part_...nt_to_gasoline
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Old October 30th, 2012, 08:53 PM   #17
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Got a few things straight enough and put my plastic on last week. Dang good looking ride!


Got some new rubber in today. Been pushing my luck on this.


Went with the bt-45 based on the consensus here.



Bought a cheap shinko for the back but I may use it on my kz 440 LTD and get a bt for the rear as well. The rear is slick but not as dry rotted as the front and I won't be riding on wet asphalt with recent temperatures and my lack of gear. Rode 12 miles each way to the eye Dr. today in the wind. Like a carnival ride! Man I love this thing! Got my oil filter today and sok rear pads!
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Old October 30th, 2012, 08:58 PM   #18
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Still got lots to do.

Anyone got a quick fix for this besides black duct tape?



She has battle scars



I need a birdcage as mine is bent and right mirror won't adjust to see. Seems like a retarded way to set up the mirrors to me. Guess it was cheap. No way the movement track can be correct for riders of different heights.
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Old October 30th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Extremely common for someone to puncture the gas tank there. Patch fixes are temporary, some last longer than others.
I have been thinking on my tank hole issues. When I had it off I did jb weld around the threaded part on the tank.


This was on the left side. I did not do the right, why?? I have no idea but....
When I gassed up after using teflon tape on the bolt threads I had no leakage from the left with the jb on it. The right side did leak. This piece thet the bolts threads into when spottd at the factory was never intended to be a seal. So when the bolt goes through the threds and into the newly created hole in the tank the fuel flows out into the little cavaty here and leaks out through the cracks. Therefore sealing this up allows th fuel to come into that little space and not get by.

I had another brainstorm on a repair here as well. I wish I knew the paint programs and such so I could draw this but hopefully you can visualize. For those who have worked on weed trimmers and such I bought a fuel line kit once that had a piece of wire with a sharp hook. This was used to feed through the hole in the tank and out the gas cap. You then hook the new fuel line with the sharp hook and pull the line through the small hole and walla! Push the gas filter in the tank and hook the pulled line up to the carb and you are ready to go.

I am thinking that you could take a 5mm bolt long enough, preferably with a bigger head. Put a gasoline resistant seal, o-ring whatever on it and push a wire from the outside of the tank up through the cap. Tape on and pull the bolt back through the hole and tighten it up with a nut. Walla a leak proof fix and you have a stud to mount the faring. The reason for a 5mm is the hole is threaded 6mm so 6mm would not come through. Once you get the bolt through you can hold loosely on the threads to tighten r just double nut at the end and tighten the nut at the base.
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Old October 30th, 2012, 11:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papawhellie View Post
I don't know if I should start a new thread or just continue here. I fillled my tank today and it leaks gas around the left blot shown here.



Drips out the fairing. I pulled the bolt and it just poured out. Put some sealant on it but it still leaked. Why would this bolt go into the gas tank or has someone forced a bolt too long in there?

I rode it some today and the dead spot is from 6000 to 8000 rpm's. As I said previously one needle is bent pretty bad. Can someone ster me to the washer shimming of the needles? Is this something I neeed to do when I replace the needle?

Anyone have direct instructions on troubleshooting the start switch/ Does it ground to complete the circuit or is it breaking the hot?
common issue for the fairing bolt to go into the gas tank and cause a hole...sucks. it was a big design flaw.
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Old October 31st, 2012, 08:26 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by papawhellie View Post
Anyone got a quick fix for this besides black duct tape?

Go get some marine grade vinyl in whatever color you want.

Pull the cover off the seat by pulling the staples, and trace the shape of the cover on to the new vinyl.

Then just fit the new vinyl to the seat and call it a day.
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Old October 31st, 2012, 10:40 AM   #22
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I redid my seat, used a heat gun from harbor freight for 6 bucks and a staple gun from Home Depot for 30(which I promptly returned after) get the shortest staples you can find as they will go trough the seat if not careful. And just stretch the vinl till it feels like its going to tear, and staple
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Old October 31st, 2012, 08:16 PM   #23
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Anyone got a quick fix for this besides black duct tape?

I'll be replacing my OEM seat cover with the CustomSeatCreations one I already have. I have two seats and planned to replace the one with cracks in it. The original cover should still have a lot of good material for patching.

As for the mirrors, I'd say to just get bar-end mirrors and get rid of the stalky ones. Mine were about $10-$12 shipped from China. Birdcages (upper fairing stays) are expensive enough that there are aftermarket ones for the newgen! Far too much aftermarket demand due to it bending and breaking so easily.
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