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Old July 22nd, 2009, 05:23 PM   #121
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It will be a little off on the rear stand. What I've done is fill the bike while checking on the ground and vertical and get the oil level where you want. Then, lift the bike up on the rear stand to see where the oil level is at that point. You can either mark or remember where it is while on the rear stand for future reference and still be assured the oil level is correct.

I try to shoot for the oil level to be 3/4 of the way up the sight glass window when the bike is on the ground and vertical. Hope that helps.

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Old July 22nd, 2009, 05:36 PM   #122
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Oh yes good idea!
Now I'm 100% sure for my second oil change this weekend(@300miles)
Thank you
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Old July 22nd, 2009, 05:52 PM   #123
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GL... let us know how it goes.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 07:01 AM   #124
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It needs to be off the rear stand. I filled mine up once on the rear stand and found out I overfilled it. By a decent amount too
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Old July 24th, 2009, 11:08 AM   #125
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I did my first oil change on my 250 today. Everything went well, except I noticed afterward that I drained the oil through the plug that was used on the old 250, where the new 08+ has a different drain setup underneath the oil screen. The oil drained fine anyway, but I just wanted to make sure that nothing will be harmed by my little newbie error.
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Old July 24th, 2009, 01:29 PM   #126
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no harm, but get into the habit of using the new drain plug location instead.
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Old July 24th, 2009, 09:06 PM   #127
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I used this to do my first oil change by myself and 400 miles later my bike is still running great. Thanks kkim!
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Old July 26th, 2009, 11:51 AM   #128
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I used this and the manual (for the filter assembly schematic) just now for my first oil / filter change at 100km and it went off perfectly. Thanks kkim!

I did notice using a torque wrench that the filter and plug bolts do not need much muscle as a few have noted here, it was like "really, that's it?"

Great DIY.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 03:11 PM   #129
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Thanks for the guide.

I didn't want to make a new thread so i'll just ask here - Honda GN4 10W-40 is fine for the 600 mile change right (first change) ? Im assuming its conventional since it doesn't say synthetic. I dont know why I bought this one, the guy at the honda dealer was a _______ (expletive) but its the only one they had. I didn't get a filter yet because they only had the kawi one which doesn't have the O rings, Kinda expensive though, 22 bucks for a gallon.... (4 quarts). can still return this oil if I need to. I also went to walmart but they didn't have filters either but im not even sure they have motorcycle specific oil.

anyone in socal - don't go to honda of hollywood, they do not know what customer service is.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 03:42 PM   #130
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Andrew - the only filters you'll find at Walmart are the Fram - I would stay far away - do a search on Fram on here if you want more info.... I order mine from somewhere like bike bandit or motorcycle superstore, and I usually get the K&N. To check whether your oil is synthetic, see if it says conventional on there anywhere, which it should. If it does, then it is not synthetic. I have seen some motorcycle oil at wally world, but not very much. I get mine from the local Advanced Auto store
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Old August 10th, 2009, 03:57 PM   #131
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yeah I saw a wall full of Fram filters although not motorcycle specific so I just left. Thanks for the heads up. Im looking at the bottle and it doesn't say synthetic or conventional but the I specifically did ask for convential at the dealer but the guy was an idiot so who knows.

this is the one I bought "genuine 4 stroke oil"
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/pr...segment=badger
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Old August 10th, 2009, 04:17 PM   #132
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if it were a synthetic, you can be sure it would say so somewhere on the bottle.

if no designation, you can assume it's a conventional oil.

http://powersports.honda.com/accessories/parts.aspx
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Old August 10th, 2009, 04:48 PM   #133
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Thanks. I just picked up a purolator filter from pep boys, will try to change it tonight. hope fully it goes well
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Old August 10th, 2009, 07:44 PM   #134
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Just done - thanks for the guide Kelly, especially the pics. Everything went smooth.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 08:16 PM   #135
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Just done - thanks for the guide Kelly, especially the pics. Everything went smooth.
that's good to hear.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 09:05 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
no harm, but get into the habit of using the new drain plug location instead.
Is the new plug (I'm assuming for the new gen) the one that's horizontal?
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Old August 10th, 2009, 09:19 PM   #137
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yes, the horizontal one pictured in this DIY.
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Old August 31st, 2009, 03:21 PM   #138
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This is just an FYI for everyone. Recently, I purchased the following pitcher, which is normally used for mixing oil and gas in 2 stroke engines.



I wanted to use it for measuring the exact amount of oil used for my oil changes!

Yesterday, I changed the oil and filter. The manual says to use 1.7 qts, if the engine has been used, i.e. already had oil in it previously. The manual says to use 1.8 qts, if this is a dry engine, i.e. just being put into service. Well .1 (1/10) of a quart is 3.2 ounces. I decided to go with the 1.8 qts (57.6 ozs) just to find where this is on the glass sight gauge.

After removing the drain plug and the oil filter housing and allowing the engine to drain for about 20 minutes, while on the rear stand, I replaced the drain plug and new filter. Since the measuring pitcher will hold a maximum of 32 ounces, I added 32 ounces of Shell Rotella-T 5W-40W and another pitcher of 25.6 ounces (right at 5/8 past 24 ounces..each mark is 2 ounces). I then started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the drain plug and the oil filter housing.

What everyone has been waiting for...the bottom line! That is the answer, the sight glass shows the oil level EVEN with the bottom line, when the bike is held vertical!

Prior to going for a ride this afternoon, I added about 1.7 ounces and this brought the level to the middle of the sight glass. I did this so I don't have to put on my reading glasses, in order to see the bottom/top line. I can quickly see that the oil is roughly in the middle of the glass before each ride!

Last futzed with by g21-30; August 31st, 2009 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Left out the word EVEN!!!!
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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:18 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g21-30 View Post
This is just an FYI for everyone. Recently, I purchased the following pitcher, which is normally used for mixing oil and gas in 2 stroke engines.
That is a really, really good idea!
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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:21 PM   #140
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I think it cost like $3 at the dealer.
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Old September 1st, 2009, 09:54 AM   #141
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ratio rite is a good tool for sure
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:10 PM   #142
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Help??

I am doing my first oil change. I bought this bike used and I can't get the oil filter screw loose. I think it was over torqued. Anyone have any ideas to take the screw off without stripping the bolt?
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:19 PM   #143
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are you using the proper sized box wrench/socket?
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:21 PM   #144
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yes. 17mm
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:21 PM   #145
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im using a 3/8 socket wrech
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:26 PM   #146
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okay... remember, left loosy, righty tighty.


Place the wrench over the bolt head, hold it firmly in place with your left hand where the wrench meets the bolt, then get a hammer and firmly hit the end of the wrench to loosen the bolt. Quick blows like that will usually shock a tight bolt loose.

there should be a 17mm box wrench in your tool kit.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:27 PM   #147
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lol...so no ideas? been working on this bolt for like 30min now trying to do it carefully. im about to take a shotgun to it just about now.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 01:30 PM   #148
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if you want help, you need to be patient. you're lucky someone was on line to help in the first place.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 02:40 PM   #149
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thanks kkim....i love this forum...finally got it off. changed the oil. rides really good now. i can actually tell a difference surprisingly. I used a k&n filter with castrol power rx gps 4t oil. used exactly 2qts.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 02:42 PM   #150
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Quote:
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if you want help, you need to be patient. you're lucky someone was on line to help in the first place.
Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 04:01 PM   #151
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John - 2 qts is just a little over what you should be using - are you sure it came to the right level in the sight glass when it was vertical?
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Old September 7th, 2009, 04:07 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by mista350z View Post
Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.
no worries, John... you should hear the vocabulary used when I'm having a problem in the garage.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 04:15 PM   #153
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John - 2 qts is just a little over what you should be using - are you sure it came to the right level in the sight glass when it was vertical?
I used 2 bottles, but there was a little left in the second bottle, so it was prob like 1.8ish that I actually filled up.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 05:01 PM   #154
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Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.
Yeah, Yeah..... We know how you Z-car boys can be!

You know, when I did the first oil change. I just used a ratchet to put the filter back on. < Iam old, I know what Iam doing... Next oil change, it took a freaking breaker bar to get the dam thing loose
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Old September 7th, 2009, 05:13 PM   #155
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arent you supposed to use 10w-40 oil? :S
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Old September 7th, 2009, 05:19 PM   #156
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who said not to?
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Old September 7th, 2009, 06:18 PM   #157
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In the pictures, 5w-40 is being used
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Old September 7th, 2009, 08:50 PM   #158
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5w-40 will work in place of 10w-40. I used 5w-40 because that's the only way the Rotella T synthetic 40w oil is sold in the US.
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Old September 7th, 2009, 09:35 PM   #159
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I used a 10w40. I had a question though. I went to cyclegear to pick up oil and the employee told me not to used synthetic since my engine is still new (5k miles)? He said synthetic doesn't all the lubes needed for new moving parts? also if you go synthetic you cant go back?....Now, I dont care for not being able to go back to regular blend, but is it true not to used synthetic until you have a good amount of miles on the engine? The guy got me into getting a semi-synthetic which he said was better than regular blend but not synthetic. What do you guys recommend?
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Old September 7th, 2009, 10:44 PM   #160
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I went to a full synthetic after 1000 miles. I changed the oil/filter 3 or four times prior to that using conventional oil.
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