June 26th, 2016, 05:42 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Matt
Location: USA
Join Date: Jun 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 7
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Brake Pad Pins, OEM/aftermarket replacements?
Hi all,
I bought a 2008 Ninja 250 (used) and I went to change my brake pads today but I was unable to remove one of the brake pad pins on the caliper (5mm hex) on the front. The pins were too rounded, and my hex key only spun freely when I applied torque. These pins were shown in purple by a picture shared by Rekognize from the KawasakiNinja300 forum. Sm2Yo0a.jpg Regardless of how I get the pin out, I also noticed that the metal was VERY soft. When I used my Lowe's Kobalt brand hex keys, I could see the screw rounding out even more in my initial attempts to loosen them. Any recommendations on replacing the pins with better quality versions? Part #: 92043-1416 Also, any suggestions on removing the pin without drilling? P.S. I am heading to a shop next week to get my rear tire replaced, so I might be able to get some help then... Last futzed with by keyword; June 26th, 2016 at 05:45 PM. Reason: Added part # |
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June 26th, 2016, 08:02 PM | #2 |
Fast-Guy wannabe
Name: Jason
Location: Brentwood, Ca
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja250, 2011 RM-Z250, 2004 NSR50, Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jan '13
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you don't need a stronger pin, you need a better use of tools(not you fault this time). Just get a new oem pin and use proper torque in the future. As for removing the pin I'm not so sure of a good way but I'm sure someone else here or even your shop has experience with this exact problem.
I'd think drilling a hole in the pin sidways like you find on proper 4 pot brakes and then using a strong pin as a breaker bar to try and brake it loose. Other would be to cut out the pads and pin with a dremel so you could use vise grips on the left over exposed pin to break it loose. You'll sacrifice your pads this way and you needed a new pin anyways. |
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July 2nd, 2016, 06:27 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Brad
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2010 SE Posts: 573
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Easiest way to remove a rounded bolt is to use a dremel with carbide cutting bit to cut a flathead screw driver slot into the bolt, then use a impact screwdriver.
60% of the time, it works every time |
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July 2nd, 2016, 06:36 AM | #4 |
The Violet Vixen
Name: Yakaru
Location: Issaquah, WA & Las Vegas, NV
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): Perigee (250), Hotaru (250), Saturn (300), Pearl (300), Zero (S1000RR), Chibi (Z125), Xellos ('18 HP4R) Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '16
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OEM is a great bet, your local dealer or someone like Mrcycles. Your other choice would be someone like ProBolt which sells Titanium aftermarket ones.
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July 7th, 2016, 10:49 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Matt
Location: USA
Join Date: Jun 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 7
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I ended up getting an impact driver and some torx and hex bits. I'm waiting for the OEM replacement hanger pins to arrive before I try to remove them.
I considered cutting the bolt ends and considering they are recessed in the caliper, I'm not sure if it would be feasible, unless there was a dremel bit that was small enough in diameter (7-8mm?) which could make such a cut for a screwdriver bit to fit into. Will give you an update when I am all "done," haha. Last futzed with by keyword; July 7th, 2016 at 10:50 PM. Reason: Grammar and English |
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July 8th, 2016, 09:46 AM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: RJ
Location: PA
Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 210
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"60% of the time, it works every time" great reference
*exits slowly realizing he has posted nothing useful* |
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July 9th, 2016, 06:44 AM | #7 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Brad
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2010 SE Posts: 573
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Quote:
https://www.dremel.com/en-au/Accesso....aspx?pid=9904 |
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July 20th, 2016, 02:04 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Matt
Location: USA
Join Date: Jun 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 7
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The darn brake pad pins were so hard (please, no innuendo jokes please :P) that the Lowes extractor bit did not even make a mark.
I tried using torx bits with both my impact driver and a regular socket wrench but had no luck. I even ordered these splined (name?) bits for removing rounded allen bolts. They were threaded cylinders that were sized to fit into hex heads. All they did was round off the bolt even more. I ended up taking the bike in to a shop and after 1 hour of labor (though I think it was probably only 0.5 hours of work), they took out the pin and put in the replacement I ordered from Partzilla through their eBay store. Thanks for all of your help guys! Also, random good news: my wife just got into cycling last week. She secretly took the MSF course to surprise me and we're shopping for another 250 for her. Hurray! |
2 out of 2 members found this post helpful. |
July 20th, 2016, 06:09 PM | #9 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Julius Michael
Location: Philippines
Join Date: May 2016 Motorcycle(s): GPX250-RII Posts: 296
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Quote:
Are the newgen pad the same with the pregen brake pads? When i was removing my front tire , the brake pad material(caliper piston side) came off the brake pad metal container? , btw its odd , like a very thick solid piece of metal and is not rough but instead it looks shiny and smooth with yellow dots on it , i just superglued it for now its a 1987 ninja 250 with dual front disc brakes |
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July 21st, 2016, 06:07 AM | #10 | |||
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
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I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.
Quote:
I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT. No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid. This is the one I use https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade Quote:
On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike. Quote:
When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER. Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH. EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM. On my 500 I have Spiegler line http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change. look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/ And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads That should answer any questions you might have.
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violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 7th, 2016, 09:11 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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