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Old April 16th, 2011, 04:10 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
no, they are regular threaded. left loosy, righty tighty.

how long is the wrench you're using?
Not long enough apparently lol. Of course the biggest socket I've got that fits my huge breaker bar is 21mm lol. On my way to pick up a 1/2" drive 22mm socket lol
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Old April 16th, 2011, 04:12 PM   #162
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try standing on the end of the wrench or kicking it downwards. I typically use a standard sized box wrench on that nut. It's not an exact fit, but wrenches in those large sizes are close enough to interchange between metric and standard. a large crescent wrench will work, too.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:06 PM   #163
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got it with some help. gf's dad was coming over for movie so I told him he had to help. got the front one with my new $9 22mm socket () to find out that the rear is bigger. i'm assuming it's 23mm. anyway, it wasn't nearly as tight as the rear, so I managed to get it with an adjustable wrench, but I'll still need a socket to torque it back up. not a big deal, I can pick up the other one tomorrow.

I can see how it's a pain to put that axle back in, general consensus is that it's fine to put back in from the right side with the nut on the left?
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:15 PM   #164
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service manual says to use a new cotter pin on reassembly, is this necessary, or can I get away with reusing it. It's not that I'm cheap, I just don't have any here so I'd have to go pick a couple up...
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cool thanks.

any final words of wisdom to someone that's never had the wheels off a bike before?
Instead of using a cotter pin, go get a hitch pin that will fit the castle nut. Or get a very large safety pin like this:



Seriously, they sell industrial strength safety pins, like here. You won't have to worry about needing a new pin for quite a while if ever.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:25 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by kamikaze View Post
I can see how it's a pain to put that axle back in, general consensus is that it's fine to put back in from the right side with the nut on the left?
that's what I've done and have no problems.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:27 PM   #166
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Instead of using a cotter pin, go get a hitch pin that will fit the castle nut. Or get a very large safety pin like this:



Seriously, they sell industrial strength safety pins, like here. You won't have to worry about needing a new pin for quite a while if ever.
That's what I do.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:32 PM   #167
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got it with some help. gf's dad was coming over for movie so I told him he had to help. got the front one with my new $9 22mm socket () to find out that the rear is bigger. i'm assuming it's 23mm. anyway, it wasn't nearly as tight as the rear, so I managed to get it with an adjustable wrench, but I'll still need a socket to torque it back up. not a big deal, I can pick up the other one tomorrow.

I can see how it's a pain to put that axle back in, general consensus is that it's fine to put back in from the right side with the nut on the left?
Rear axle nut is actually 24mm. Yes, it's fine to reverse the rear axle (don't see why front would be a problem either).... I only started doing this on the rear recently, but it would have made life a little easier being that the rear brake mount just floats on there.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 07:55 PM   #168
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sweet, thanks guys. should have the new tires mounted tomorrow. guy is putting in my aluminum valve stems as well. hopefully it all goes back together as easily as it came apart
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Old April 16th, 2011, 11:49 PM   #169
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Rear axle nut is actually 24mm. Yes, it's fine to reverse the rear axle (don't see why front would be a problem either).... I only started doing this on the rear recently, but it would have made life a little easier being that the rear brake mount just floats on there.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=37

Kawi even tells you to install it that way even though it doesn't ship that way. Perhaps it's a way to see if dealers are really following their service manuals during initial set-up.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 01:57 PM   #170
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Thanks for the tips guys. Got the new shoes on and wheels back on the bike. Even found some time to install a LED taillight I bought over the winter. As for clearance on the chain guard, I put a couple washers in behind it on the front bolt and I've got about 1/8" to spare. The 150 rear looks so good, I can't wait to ride it. Of course, it decided to snow a bit today lol

Edit: the guy that changed the tires for me set the pressure to 30psi, anyone with BT016s care to chime in on the pressure they are running?
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Old March 15th, 2012, 09:14 PM   #171
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Originally Posted by Soujyu View Post

1. You can use a front stand that holds the bike up by the forks.
Has anyone else actually done this? And if so, how the hell were you able to do it? I'm hoping it's just some really obvious way that I'm simply over looking.

I'm taking off my wheels to swap tires next week and didn't have the forethought to get a triple-T stand so I'm stuck trying to make due with what I've got. I was looking at it tonight and just don't see any way you can get the axle bolt out on the front.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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Old March 15th, 2012, 09:22 PM   #172
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Has anyone else actually done this? And if so, how the hell were you able to do it? I'm hoping it's just some really obvious way that I'm simply over looking.

I'm taking off my wheels to swap tires next week and didn't have the forethought to get a triple-T stand so I'm stuck trying to make due with what I've got. I was looking at it tonight and just don't see any way you can get the axle bolt out on the front.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
The ones I've seen have one finger go under the bottom of each fork and one finger go behind the rake of the fork (toward the engine) to cradle the corner. Thy usually have a design that tries to clear the front axle but I've found that it often interferes (lip around hex area hits the swinging plate that the fingers are attached to). It usually takes a bit of finagling but it's best to set the bike down and try again or you risk dropping the bike. I once removed my front tire and found that I could not reinsert the axle (something shifted?). I could not set it down because the was no tire. I damn near dropped the bike trying to shift and correct it.

If you can get a triple tree/head stand, then do. It'll make everything easier and allow for fork service (can't service the forks if the bike is being held up by them).
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Old March 15th, 2012, 10:40 PM   #173
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Mine has a pointy post that slips halfway into the hole at the bottom of each fork. (not the most secure, but no problem if you're careful).
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Old March 15th, 2012, 10:57 PM   #174
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Mine has a pointy post that slips halfway into the hole at the bottom of each fork. (not the most secure, but no problem if you're careful).
That sounds a lot better than the two horizontal fingers variety that I described.
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Old March 15th, 2012, 11:37 PM   #175
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What the issue of balancing the wheels every discussed? That would also be the cause of a wobble. I want to put new tires on my bike, but the local shops charged $160-$200 for mount, balance, alignment, and install.
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Old March 15th, 2012, 11:51 PM   #176
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What the issue of balancing the wheels every discussed? That would also be the cause of a wobble. I want to put new tires on my bike, but the local shops charged $160-$200 for mount, balance, alignment, and install.
I assume this includes the cost of the tire.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 12:00 AM   #177
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I assume this includes the cost of the tire.
LOL. Sadly no. The set of tires would be an additional $200. I'm currently reading Kelly's full post, so the question about balancing can be disregarded.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 12:04 AM   #178
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LOL. Sadly no. The set of tires would be an additional $200. I'm currently reading Kelly's full post, so the question about balancing can be disregarded.
You either misunderstood, or you will never EVER step foot in that place again!
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Old March 16th, 2012, 12:05 AM   #179
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LOL. Sadly no. The set of tires would be an additional $200. I'm currently reading Kelly's full post, so the question about balancing can be disregarded.
I've had them loose mounted for $20 for one, $30 for both at a dealership. That's when you just bring in the loose rim and tire. They balanced it too but you can do that when mounting. Also, Cycle Gear does that for free.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 05:46 AM   #180
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The ones I've seen have one finger go under the bottom of each fork and one finger go behind the rake of the fork (toward the engine) to cradle the corner. Thy usually have a design that tries to clear the front axle but I've found that it often interferes (lip around hex area hits the swinging plate that the fingers are attached to). It usually takes a bit of finagling but it's best to set the bike down and try again or you risk dropping the bike. I once removed my front tire and found that I could not reinsert the axle (something shifted?). I could not set it down because the was no tire. I damn near dropped the bike trying to shift and correct it.

If you can get a triple tree/head stand, then do. It'll make everything easier and allow for fork service (can't service the forks if the bike is being held up by them).
That's what I've got.. they're the T-Rex Front/Rear stands, but the bracket that joins the 2 fingers is big enough that, while I can get tools in to loosen and remove the nut, I wouldn't be able to slide the axle out the other side but I may just need to get some help with shifting the bike a bit and sliding it out.
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Old March 19th, 2012, 03:48 PM   #181
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Has anyone else actually done this? And if so, how the hell were you able to do it? I'm hoping it's just some really obvious way that I'm simply over looking.

I'm taking off my wheels to swap tires next week and didn't have the forethought to get a triple-T stand so I'm stuck trying to make due with what I've got. I was looking at it tonight and just don't see any way you can get the axle bolt out on the front.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I've got the Pitbull stands myself, and the fingers for the stands that use the fork ends rest right below the bolt once you get the wheel up. I had just enough clearance to get the bolt off.

I could try taking a photo of it if you want.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 11:53 AM   #182
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Thanks @Soujyu, no need. I just ended up saying "screw it" and bought the Triple-T adapter from T-Rex for my front stand. The bracket on my T-Rex stand that actually touches the forks is a bit fatter than your Pitbull stand I guess b/c it completely covers the axle nut and bolt head, I wouldn't even be able to get a socket wrench in there. A box wrench would be fine but I don't know if there's enough room to actually remove the nut and even if I'd get the nut off I would have no way of removing the axle bolt w/o tipping the bike off the stand.

Oh well.. now I'll have the Triple-T stand I should've gotten in the first place.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:05 AM   #183
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at this point, I highly suggest you stick a spacer of some sort between the brake pads in the caliper. If you don't, some kid, gf, buddy, friend, idiot will come along and squeeze the front brake lever on your bike while you work and potentially cause you a major brake caliper headache.
To relieve the calliper headache take one G clamp & place on piston, tighten until piston pops back in, repeat on other piston

(Optional) take one size 11 boot & deliver to offender's rear end to prevent repeat of offence (not recommended on gf as routine servicing may be withdrawn...)
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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:08 AM   #184
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To relieve the calliper headache take one G clamp & place on piston, tighten until piston pops back in, repeat on other piston

(Optional) take one size 11 boot & deliver to offender's rear end to prevent repeat of offence (not recommended on gf as routine servicing may be withdrawn...)
Pressing in one piston will push out the other with the pressure. If you have an old brake pad backing plate, use that.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:11 AM   #185
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Pressing in one piston will push out the other with the pressure. If you have an old brake pad backing plate, use that.
Good point, I had the calliper off & drained for new pressure & dust seals
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Old April 29th, 2014, 04:22 PM   #186
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I am bumping this DIY thread on tire changing for the newbies. Thanks.
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Old April 29th, 2014, 05:20 PM   #187
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I've changed all my tires from 2008. I've done so without injury, but it has been a major PITA (still worth it though). This last tire I got fed-up and finally sprung for the No-mar mount/demount tire changing bar. It comes with a tub of proper tire lube. My goodness, why did I wait until now to get this!!!??? What an amazing difference it makes when you use the proper tools, and follow proper procedures. I barely broke a sweat... literally.
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Old April 29th, 2014, 11:46 PM   #188
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Those metal rusty tools near those rims made me cringe
This is how its done

http://www.1000rr.net/forums/tires/1...own-tires.html

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/gener...own-tires.html
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Old August 1st, 2014, 05:01 PM   #189
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Since I don't have any of the proper equipment or any way to hold front end up to get tire off I had to have the stealership mount my tires. Mind you I bought the tires from them as well and they still charged me $170 to mount and balance both front and back. everything was put on Kawi card so I wasnt all that upset, but still, what a freakin rip off
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 12:49 AM   #190
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Yes, don't do that again.
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 07:24 AM   #191
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The $170 didn't include the price of either tire, that was just for mounting and balancing?
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 08:05 AM   #192
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The $170 didn't include the price of either tire, that was just for mounting and balancing?
yep, the tires were about $200. I should have said something I know, But this is the only Kawi dealer in a 20 mile radius of me. they have been good to me in the past. Only reason why I had to go to them was that tires went out before I had the cash funds saved up and had to use my Kawi card.
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 01:30 PM   #193
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yep, the tires were about $200. I should have said something I know, But this is the only Kawi dealer in a 20 mile radius of me. they have been good to me in the past. Only reason why I had to go to them was that tires went out before I had the cash funds saved up and had to use my Kawi card.
They were not good to you. They smiled kindly while ramming you in the ar$e.

For $200 you can get some decent gear to DIY your own tires for as long as you own your bike. I was at about your point when I figured this out... even paid for a valve check once (once). Never again.
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 02:53 PM   #194
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They were not good to you. They smiled kindly while ramming you in the ar$e.

For $200 you can get some decent gear to DIY your own tires for as long as you own your bike. I was at about your point when I figured this out... even paid for a valve check once (once). Never again.
Oh I know, My ass still hurts from it. Plus I had just plopped down $440 a few weeks ago for a valve adjustment, carb sync and tune. I would do myself but even after reading the DIY on valve adjustment and carb sync, I still don't understand how to do it and am afraid of messing everything up. Bike is still financed and I rely on it to get to work. Not just a side toy for me that I can mess around with.

So actually I kind of don't mind paying since I have a little piece of mind that its going to be done right and I won't be the one freaking out when I **** something up on it
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 03:33 PM   #195
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Originally Posted by LNasty View Post
Oh I know, My ass still hurts from it. Plus I had just plopped down $440 a few weeks ago for a valve adjustment, carb sync and tune. I would do myself but even after reading the DIY on valve adjustment and carb sync, I still don't understand how to do it and am afraid of messing everything up. Bike is still financed and I rely on it to get to work. Not just a side toy for me that I can mess around with.

So actually I kind of don't mind paying since I have a little piece of mind that its going to be done right and I won't be the one freaking out when I **** something up on it
I hear you. Several years ago I resembled everything about you and your situation that you've described, including relying on my bike as primary transportation. If you have a form of emergency back-up to get you to work during times your bike is in pieces, this will help a lot. However, unlike getting cars services, MC mechanics seem to take a long time anyways, so MCs are never TRULY the 100% answer, although they can come close (in CA at least).

If you have space to store and work on your stuff, are willing to learn over time, forgive yourself for mistakes, trust that in the end you'll ride/rise above and feel awesome, my advice is as follows:

- Service Manual (not owners manual). You should order this before taking possession of the bike. There is no substitute. The electronic one is nice to have, but make sure you have a legitimate copy in print. Read it for fun (serious), and read through/understand the procedures the best you can before taking on a new job.

- Make a habit of reading DIYs (including watching YouTube videos), and actively participate in the forums. Ninjette is the best forum I've found anywhere for this, but there are a couple others.

- Without needing to know everything, try to understand WHY/HOW things work. This will GREATLY increase your diagnostic skills, confidence, and keep you from chasing non-existent ghosts.

- Slowly increase your mechanical skills and confidence by starting with little jobs, and slowly learning bigger ones.

- Start with your most basic necessary set of tools, and SLOWLY add to it every time you learn a new job. It IS worth spending money on many specialty tools that you don't use everyday, but some of them you can buy cheaper versions. You can get buy with a lot of DIY techniques to forgo many specialty tools, but you may eventually tire of the added effort. Depending on the job, you may eventually want to treat yourself to replacing a ****** DIY tool with the luxury of a specialized tool. Example: I used tire spoons for several years - successfully, but I hated every moment of it. This year I finally sprung for the no-mar tire mount/demount bar.... I've only used it once thus far, but let me tell you this... life has opened up to me! Buy one.

- Don't shop at your local dealer, unless you either own stock in the business, or you have some freakishly unusual LBS that will price-match online stores liberally (good luck with that).

- Buy parts and specialty tools from respected online retailers, but always look for the smaller online gems out there that sell lesser known tool brands for significantly cheaper (rockymountainatv.com is one).

- Don't forget ebay! Need a $100 diagram for one of your carbs? Buy a COMPLETE carb set off eBay for $100, and have lots of extra parts. Crack your head? Buy a new/used engine off eBay for $700. The eBay MC wrecker can be your friend.

- Document EVERYTHING carefully, and keep a binder for all your maintenance records and receipts. Receipts are necessary to prove work was done, and receipts for accessories will be necessary if you ever need to make an insurance claim. When you are taking on a new job, TAKE PICTURES of every step. This will help if you forget what part went when/where/how, as well as provide pics to upload to the forum if you need to ask for help.

- When you have to buy, or re-buy, a part you broke, forgive yourself quickly, LEARN from the experience, and laugh that you spent less than a single college unit and gained so much more practical life knowledge/skill.

This post has been brought to you by caffeine and Adderall, but ideas have come to a screeching halt. More will come after I hit 'submit,' I'm sure. All advice has come from great personal cost to me, sweat, tears, and lots of joy; but if it saves you some pain, the benefit to me also increases.
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Old September 29th, 2022, 04:34 PM   #196
CZroe
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Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
IIRC, pregens come with the axle inserted from the right... perhaps they just cut and pasted instructions from that manual to the new gen?
This is exactly what happened because it was fixed in the FI-spec manual printed a few months later along with several other cut/paste errors from the previous generation’s manual. I found references to the lower fairing and center stands which were fixed in the same revision.

Of course, this doesn’t tell us whether it’s OK to insert from the right or not, but I presume it is or else they would have put out a supplement for future copies and sent out notices to dealers. Since it seems they are aware of the error after fixing it, I would expect actions like those if they determined it to be a problem. I assume it is OK and I can’t see any reason to keep fighting with the brake caliper mount.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/atta...8&d=1664493284

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 30th, 2022 at 02:11 AM.
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Old September 29th, 2022, 06:59 PM   #197
DannoXYZ
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Yeah, I insert axle from right. It helps hold brake-caliper bracket in proper position so I don' have to worry about it when inserting wheel.
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