DIY- Changing Tires on the 250R

[Nevrfastenuf]

Thank you once again for the great DIY Kelly I somehow managed to get a nail the other day that went through the tread and out the sidewall of my tire, it just barely missed puncturing the air chamber but I figured it was best to just get a new tire. My goal is to never have to take this bike to anyone for any type of service so this meant it was time for me to learn to install my own tire. After reading through the DIY a couple times I purchased a new BT45 rear tire, a couple tire irons, and some rim protectors and went to work. I'm happy to say that it was much easier than I thought it would be and I am actually looking forward to changing my front tire when it shows up next week (It drives me nuts not having a matching set of tires...).

I would definitely have to agree that putting the rear axle in from the disc side instead of the sprocket side made the task a lot easier! I just used the 2X4 method for breaking the bead and I would have to say it worked pretty good and I would highly recommend it for those who are wanting to try their hand at installing their own tires.

[kkim]

Good job, Clint. The front puts up much less of a fight than the rear tire.

GL w/ changing the front.

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by Nevrfastenuf

I just used the 2X4 method for breaking the bead and I would have to say it worked pretty good and I would highly recommend it for those who are wanting to try their hand at installing their own tires.

Did you pressure treated pine, plain fir, or plain pine for the 2X4. Give us some lengths, etc.

Thanks

[Nevrfastenuf]

Originally Posted by g21-30

Did you pressure treated pine, plain fir, or plain pine for the 2X4. Give us some lengths, etc.

Thanks

I will make sure I get some pictures of the process when I do the front tire in a few days and include a full material analysis and dimensional specs on the lumber

[CZroe]

So, I was wondering why no one had posted rebelyell91's (a YouTube Ninja 250R vlogger) tire-change video so I went to look it up.

It turns out that it wasn't his 250 but, rather, a friend's ZX-6R. Oh well, here it is anyway:

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Nevrfastenuf]

Originally Posted by CZroe

So, I was wondering why no one had posted rebelyell91's (a YouTube Ninja 250R vlogger) tire-change video so I went to look it up.

Probably because it doesn't really help the average Ninja 250 owner to see how a shop changes a tire when the purpose of this DIY is to show you how to Do It Yourself. I can only speak for myself, but if I had the money to have a motorcycle lift and a professional tire changing machine in my garage I probably would not have a Ninja 250. I also highly doubt anyone with a machine that expensive is going to try and use youtube to figure out how to run it, not to mention that video wouldn't teach them any more about operating their fancy new machine than a trip to watch the employees at the local Les Schwab tire store would.

A more appropriate title for that video would be "How to pay someone $30 and watch them change your tire for you".

This video fits the topic a little better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Nevrfastenuf

Probably because it doesn't really help the average Ninja 250 owner to see how a shop changes a tire when the purpose of this DIY is to show you how to Do It Yourself. I can only speak for myself, but if I had the money to have a motorcycle lift and a professional tire changing machine in my garage I probably would not have a Ninja 250. I also highly doubt anyone with a machine that expensive is going to try and use youtube to figure out how to run it, not to mention that video wouldn't teach them any more about operating their fancy new machine than a trip to watch the employees at the local Les Schwab tire store would.

A more appropriate title for that video would be "How to pay someone $30 and watch them change your tire for you".

This video fits the topic a little better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0

I was talking about more than equipment... which way they put the axel in, for instance. Anyway, I said that I "was" wondering but explained that I no longer was once I realized that it wasn't a 250, so I already answered the "why not?" question. I posted it anyway just because I had already gone through the trouble and bothered to look it up.

[Nevrfastenuf]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I was talking about more than equipment... which way they put the axel in, for instance. Anyway, I said that I "was" wondering but explained that I no longer was once I realized that it wasn't a 250, so I already answered the "why not?" question. I posted it anyway just because I had already gone through the trouble and bothered to look it up.

I apologize for not watching the video all the way through, I went back and did so this morning and noticed they did in fact put the axle in from the disk side instead of the sprocket side. I do agree that it is much easier to line everything up that way when you are trying to get the tire back on yourself

[headshrink]

It looks like they may have forgotten a part. I can't tell what it is, but there is a ring thingy still on the stand from disassembly when they are lowering it back down.

I lose at least one screw every time I go in.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by Nevrfastenuf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0

Thank you so much for posting this!!! If this board had karma or reputation points active, I would give you as many as I could - just for this one tip.

This is the first video I have seen that has really instilled the most self-confidence and belief that I really can do it myself without spending an entire weekend, injuring myself, spending $ to fix mistakes, being frustrated, etc.... AND I don't have to be Alex, Kelly or Vex.

I looked at the other videos that follow to complete the job, and they are "must haves" too! The little tool tips are great too, but I couldn't pick up just what those rim protectors are or where to get them. I looked at this guys profile, but couldn't find the webpage he referenced where he supposedly listed them. If anyone finds out, or makes a complete shopping list, please post it here.

[headshrink]

Can someone please explain this tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42927
Does it do ANYTHING other than hold your rim?

How much will these do? Worth the expense/any real convenience?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34542

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34552



Also, as far as the HF bead breakers, I found these two:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98875
for ~$20

and

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92961
for ~$35

Other than ~$15, color/design, a little adjustability, is there any real difference? In other words.... is it worth spending an extra $15 for the nicer one?

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by headshrink

but I couldn't pick up just what those rim protectors are or where to get them.

I just made my "protectors" today from a used 1 gallon plastic orange juice container. Cut out 2 sides and the front for a total of 3 protectors.

In case you haven't thought about it, you can use a bumper jack as a bead breaker. This is an old military technique. You lay the motorcycle tire under the automobile/truck bumper, after removing the core from the schrader valve so all the air is released. Place the jack base on the edge of the tire and close to the wheel edge, but not touching the wheel!!! Then try to jack the auto/truck up. The weight of the auto/truck will break the bead.

Follow your favorite video from that point, while using the plastic orange juice "protectors" and 3 tire tools to remove the tire from the rim!

Check this out:

http://www.floridasportbikers.com/sh...ad.php?t=49475

and he says to chec the video posted on Youtube "Scudmans tire change".

[Nevrfastenuf]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Thank you so much for posting this!!! If this board had karma or reputation points active, I would give you as many as I could - just for this one tip.

This is the first video I have seen that has really instilled the most self-confidence and belief that I really can do it myself without spending an entire weekend, injuring myself, spending $ to fix mistakes, being frustrated, etc.... AND I don't have to be Alex, Kelly or Vex.
I looked at the other videos that follow to complete the job, and they are "must haves" too! The little tool tips are great too, but I couldn't pick up just what those rim protectors are or where to get them. I looked at this guys profile, but couldn't find the webpage he referenced where he supposedly listed them. If anyone finds out, or makes a complete shopping list, please post it here.

Thanks I found those videos really helpful too! The front wheel really was that easy to get off and on, but the rear took a bit more sweat. The rim protectors that he uses are just the sides cut out of a 1 gallon tropicana orange juice jug. Here is my list of things I used to change my front and rear tires:

2 new tires

Front and/or rear stand (I didn't have access to a front stand so I had to risk it and improvise)

2 Tire irons
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=19197

1 pair of rim protectors (the juice jugs would work fine too)
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=24704

Tools to remove the axles.

2 pieces of 4"x4" lumber about a foot long to keep the wheel off the ground while removing/installing the tire.

1 old sheet/towel/anything soft to put between the wood and the wheel to keep it from getting scratched.

1 piece of 4"x4" (or 2x4) lumber preferably 6' long or more

1 piece of 2"x4" lumber that is about 6" long

Some lube that wont ruin your tire or wheel.

Adhesive backed wheel weights.

And some clothes you can get dirty in

This is just my opinion, but out of the following tools the only one I would consider spending money on is the $35 bead breaker (I would get that one because it will provide more leverage than the smaller one).

Originally Posted by headshrink

Can someone please explain this tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42927
Does it do ANYTHING other than hold your rim?

How much will these do? Worth the expense/any real convenience?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34542

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34552

Also, as far as the HF bead breakers, I found these two:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98875
for ~$20

and

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92961
for ~$35

Other than ~$15, color/design, a little adjustability, is there any real difference? In other words.... is it worth spending an extra $15 for the nicer one?

Here are a few photos of my bead breaker setup, works great if you have some spare lumber laying around (pay no attention to the crappy garage floor, the previous owner thought it would be great to use gray wall paint to make it look pretty ) I got this idea from an off-road motorcycle touring website but I can't find the page again to post here

Wood to support the wheel:


Wheel ready for some work:


Bead breaker setup:

Originally Posted by g21-30

Did you pressure treated pine, plain fir, or plain pine for the 2X4. Give us some lengths, etc.

Redwood for the 4x4 and pine for the 2x4, dimensions are listed above

[headshrink]

Are we supposed to replace the valve stem or core?

I am not finding these parts at most retailers.

[backinthesaddleagain]

i am thinking that replacing the valve stem is a ploy by car tire dealers. i always get them replaced when my car gets new tires, but my father never did and never had a bad stem.

[Nevrfastenuf]

They are a rubber part and a fairly important one at that, so it wouldn't hurt to keep them in tip top shape. I plan on replacing mine once every couple years because at this rate it looks like I will need a new set of tires each year. I would recommend trying to get the stems from the place you get your tires or some place local to save on shipping costs.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

i am thinking that replacing the valve stem is a ploy by car tire dealers. i always get them replaced when my car gets new tires, but my father never did and never had a bad stem.

huh, that could be..... I was just starting to look at all those little upcharges, for basically nothing!
Next they will try to tell us we need to sipe our motorcycle tires...

[kkim]

valve stems should be good for at least for a couple of years or more. Always use the valve stem caps on the stems to prevent valve failure due to debris collecting in the valve stem.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

i am thinking that replacing the valve stem is a ploy by car tire dealers. i always get them replaced when my car gets new tires, but my father never did and never had a bad stem.

Link to original page on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AerHA...eature=channel
Same guy we praised earlier, only he's putting the tire back on in this video... Watch @ 1:50.

He says he personally would not change a tire without putting in a new rubber stem unless it was previously swapped for a metal one.

[Nevrfastenuf]

It is my opinion that valve stems, like many other parts on a motorcycle, should be checked frequently and replaced as necessary. I like to check my tire pressure every day before I get on my bike. As I check my pressure I visually inspect the tires for wear and foreign objects, the valve stems for cracks in the rubber, and the brakes for wear or abnormal scarring of the disc. These few extra moments spent checking things out gives me an idea of when I will need to order replacement parts, and gives me a warm fuzzy feeling about the machine I am about to entrust my life to.

I feel there is nothing wrong with choosing to replace your valve stem with every tire change, that being said, I would also not count on valve stems lasting until it is time for a tire change. If I noticed my valve stems were starting to crack and the rubber was breaking down I would consider replacing them even if my tires still had 6 more months of tread left on them.

Here are a couple sites that had some interesting info on valve stems:

http://www.techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/valvestem/
http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr20134.htm

[rockNroll]

I change valve stems with new tires on my cars but my bike tires wear out every 2000-2500 miles or so, so I just replace the stems every two or three sets of tires.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by Nevrfastenuf

even if my tires still had 6 more months of tread left on them.

If anyone's tires ever have more than 6 months of tread left on them, even if they are brand-new, they need to ride more.

[gamma500]

I have used the plastic juice containers as rim protectors and can vouch for the fact that you will more than likely still blemish the rims a bit. eBay..Search "rim protectors"...cheap and you have virgin rim edges. Yeah, I hear what the dude in the last video says about them..they have cords to keep them from falling into the tire interior and the flange part of them is thin that fits near the rim edge. The "fat" part is the part that lays on the side of the rim which is how they keep the tire iron from digging into the rim surface.

[CZroe]

dunlop_gt501_wear_bars.jpg

HA! Of course.

I guess it's about time I started looking for replacement tires (those shots were taken over a month and 1,000+ miles ago ). It's too bad that GT501 tires aren't available in the US except as take-offs. I really like 'em.

Thanks for the thread. Now, does anyone know where I can find some GT501 take-offs?

[headshrink]

Since they are so inexpensive, I think I am going to by a small arsenal of stem/cores.... well at least for 2 tires.
I'm looking at various vendors, but am finding that not everyone carries these. Do we just get any old shrader core and stem, or is there a specific one or size?

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by gamma500

I have used the plastic juice containers as rim protectors and can vouch for the fact that you will more than likely still blemish the rims a bit. eBay..Search "rim protectors"...cheap and you have virgin rim edges. Yeah, I hear what the dude in the last video says about them..they have cords to keep them from falling into the tire interior and the flange part of them is thin that fits near the rim edge. The "fat" part is the part that lays on the side of the rim which is how they keep the tire iron from digging into the rim surface.

Are you saying I WILL mark up my rim, or to be careful that I don't?
I'm surprised no one has mentioned that before.

[headshrink]

I did it!

This is very doable, and having the proper tools makes it much easier.
One of the hardest parts for me was making sure I didn't chip the paint, or mar the rim, but being methodical is what this is all about.

I used the bead breaker from HF, as well as the balancing stand.... I know you don't NEED a dedicated stand, but I only had to buy it once. I was using traditional rim protectors, but had to send my wife for a tropicana jug to finish getting the last lip on. I aligned the red dot with the valve stem, but wouldn't you know it, those suckers stuck straight up on the balancing stand... looks a little ugly with 5 weights taped next to the stem. The adhesive tape on the weights are a little thicker than the ones the dealer used on the back, so it shows a little and is ugly.... but I now have a reasonably balanced, new front tire on my bike, AND I got to punch my man card!

One thing I will do differently next time is buy one more tire iron. I have 2, which were enough for some parts, but 3 makes it much easier and may be necessary on stubborn tires.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

I did it!

This is very doable, and having the proper tools makes it much easier.
One of the hardest parts for me was making sure I didn't chip the paint, or mar the rim, but being methodical is what this is all about.

I used the bead breaker from HF, as well as the balancing stand.... I know you don't NEED a dedicated stand, but I only had to buy it once. I was using traditional rim protectors, but had to send my wife for a tropicana jug to finish getting the last lip on. I aligned the red dot with the valve stem, but wouldn't you know it, those suckers stuck straight up on the balancing stand... looks a little ugly with 5 weights taped next to the stem. The adhesive tape on the weights are a little thicker than the ones the dealer used on the back, so it shows a little and is ugly.... but I now have a reasonably balanced, new front tire on my bike, AND I got to punch my man card!

One thing I will do differently next time is buy one more tire iron. I have 2, which were enough for some parts, but 3 makes it much easier and may be necessary on stubborn tires.

I hope you at least used the coupon:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...00&single=true

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I hope you at least used the coupon:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...00&single=true

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Buy another one (with the coupon) when you go back for the other tire iron; return it with your old receipt; ???; profit?

[gamma500]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Are you saying I WILL mark up my rim, or to be careful that I don't?
I'm surprised no one has mentioned that before.

You WILL put indentations in the paint using plastic container protectors albeit small ones IF you are very careful and the tires are nice and warm and soft so they stretch more easily. I have used plastic detergent containers which are a lot thicker than Trop. juice plastic and marred the paint. The dude on the Video probably doesn't mind a nick or two but I like things to remain "as new" if possible. Aftermarket rim protectors are cheap insurance to prevent cosmetic problems and actually allow the tire iron to slide more easily....if you saw what a juice "protector" looked like after a mount sessions you would be a believer. These rims are aluminum and the tire irons are steel with you putting all that pressure on that nice powder coated lip...

Get 3 or 4 rim protectors ...would have saved the wife running out to get the Tropicana..! BTW, use Johnsons Baby shampoo mixed with a bit of H20 to use as lubricant..contains no acids like other detergents which will form some aluminum oxide salts on the bare aluminum on the inner bead....that white powder you'll notice when you remove the tire again. Easy to remove with a wirebrush but if you keep the bike for years and have multiple tire changes like me you'll notice some bead pitting eventually.

[gamma500]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Since they are so inexpensive, I think I am going to by a small arsenal of stem/cores.... well at least for 2 tires.
I'm looking at various vendors, but am finding that not everyone carries these. Do we just get any old shrader core and stem, or is there a specific one or size?

Same valve stem core as any tire valve. Tire stems come in long/shorter lengths. Our bikes use the shorter length but both will work. WalMart carries them as does any autoparts store. You'll need a valve installer to pull the valve through the rim. They sell commercial ones..I made one by taking a metal valve stem cap, drilling a small hole through the top of it and attaching it with a small (very!) bolt/nut to a T-handle I made from some steel stock. Screwed the valve onto the handle/cap after placing in rim hole, lubed the stem, and in she pops with a stout pull.

The store bought ones use the same idea, the cheaper ones have a length of chain attached to a cap and short little pull bar..akward to get enough grip on it and the chain goes "South" after a couple hard pulls.

A couple other tips...remove the valve core before trying to seat the bead on the mounted tire using your friendly gas station air pump if you don't have a high psi home compressor. You might also want to take a ratchet strap and put it around the circumference of the tire keeping it centered. Tighten it down forcing the tire beads to approximate the rim seats before inflating. When she "pops" take off the air chuck and have a valve core ready to start screwing in. Look to see if the tire bead is evenly seated...a couple of dribbles of the rim on the ground will solve small uneven areas. Giving the tire bead a coating of baby shampoo solution will help her evenly seat the first time.

On my race tires, I would put a even, light smear of black RTV sealant on the tire bead to form a better, air tight seal. They sell a special RTV in a more liquid viscosity for this but hard to find and Permatex Black is as good, just more labor intensive.

[headshrink]

Craig, thanks for all those extra expert tips! I would never have known, let alone thought of some of most of those.

Thankfully I do have a nice 15gal. air compressor that I bought from Lowes about 4-5 years ago (one of the best purchases ever, next to shopvac, water & food). So inflation was a snap... literally. Of course by the time both beads snapped, the psi was an uncomfortable 60-80psi (not remember exactly), so I immediately released the air pressure. It never occurred to me to do this prior to reinstalling the valve core, but this would certainly be a safer way of doing it. I'll remember that for next time. Funny that no one has mentioned the tool to install the stem until now... I didn't know there was one (another thing for my list). And the baby shampoo (I used dish soap, H2O, & paint brush)... wow, I would have never guessed there was a significant difference in chemistry. I've got little ones, so that one is already in the cupboard. I guess I'll save that detergent bottle too... LOL.

I hope the evolution of this thread is inspiring more and more brothers/sisters in motorcycles to try mounting/balancing their own tires.

[gamma500]

Glad you gleaned some info...shooting the air in w/o the valve core gets the thing seated without hitting those higher pressures via the slower air entry method with the core in place. In my younger, stupider days, I would occasionally seat roadrace (auto) tires using the "spray a dose of starter fluid (ether) and toss in a match" technique, not needed or recommended for MC tires !

As far as balancing tires, I put the removed axle with the tire on a set of jack stands, level concrete floor, and spin them a few times, marking the low spot with a crayon, than tape a weight on the opposite side, using different weights 'til spinning the tire ends up showing random low spots coming up. I like to see these random spots encompassing the whole 360 degrees of the rim, not favoring one hemicircumference.

If I am using adhesive weights, I'll take the correct weight and cut it in half, placing each half on each side of the rim "light" spot near the center line.. If I am using clip-on weights, I'll grab 2 smaller ones that equal the total clip-on weight and attach them so the leaded side face both outer sides of the rim next to each other. I racer tape over the weights still, even for the road bike.

If you are mounting tires in the colder climes, make sure the new tires spend a night in a warm cozy spot, next to a heater vent or other heat source so they are more malleable.

A fun job, not too hard to do, and there is a reason mechanic shops post signs that say "We are not responsible for damage to rims"...(o:

[Nevrfastenuf]

Originally Posted by headshrink

I did it!

This is very doable, and having the proper tools makes it much easier.
One of the hardest parts for me was making sure I didn't chip the paint, or mar the rim, but being methodical is what this is all about.

That's great news! I'm glad to hear you were able to get the job done yourself Good luck on all your future projects.

Originally Posted by gamma500

If you are mounting tires in the colder climes, make sure the new tires spend a night in a warm cozy spot, next to a heater vent or other heat source so they are more malleable.
A fun job, not too hard to do, and there is a reason mechanic shops post signs that say "We are not responsible for damage to rims"...(o:

+1 On the warm tires tip, I layed mine out in the sun on the driveway while i was getting the old tire off, but now that warm sunny days are becoming a rare event in some parts of the world I would definitely second leaving them by a heater vent .

[CZroe]

Well, my trip to Harbor Freight was a bust. No valve core removal tools (their tire sealant and patch kits included them but they are useless for motorcycles), no rubber or metal valve stems, the $5 10mm spools are only available on their website with shipping costs higher than the product itself, no rim protectors, and tire irons that cost too much ($7 for each 2ft iron = $20, which is high for Harbor Freight crap). My trip to Cycle Gear had me scoff at their $30 slider spools (they didn't have 10mm standard spools) but at least I saw this:

tirebalance.jpg

I inquired and they said that you don't have to do anything but bring in your mounted wheel/tire. It's just free. *shrug* It's a way to get you in the store I guess.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Well, my trip to Harbor Freight was a bust. No valve core removal tools (their tire sealant and patch kits included them but they are useless for motorcycles), no rubber or metal valve stems, the $5 10mm spools are only available on their website with shipping costs higher than the product itself, no rim protectors, and tire irons that cost too much ($7 for each 2ft iron = $20, which is high for Harbor Freight crap). My trip to Cycle Gear had me scoff at their $30 slider spools (they didn't have 10mm standard spools) but at least I saw this:

Attachment 4478

I inquired and they said that you don't have to do anything but bring in your mounted wheel/tire. It's just free. *shrug* It's a way to get you in the store I guess.

That is a great gimmick they got there. I notice they specifically don't include mounting.... so really, if you can mount your own wheel, why wouldn't you balance it... and if you had it mounted elsewhere, balancing is part of the job (although a separate line item to charge you for). As useless as it probably ends up being, it is still a really smart offer.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

That is a great gimmick they got there. I notice they specifically don't include mounting.... so really, if you can mount your own wheel, why wouldn't you balance it... and if you had it mounted elsewhere, balancing is part of the job (although a separate line item to charge you for). As useless as it probably ends up being, it is still a really smart offer.

Well, considering that I don't have the stands to rig something up myself, I think I'll be taking advantage of it even when I change the tire myself. I'd rather have proper weights clipped on than something I taped on anyway.

The only problem for me is getting there with the wheel off my bike.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Well, considering that I don't have the stands to rig something up myself, I think I'll be taking advantage of it even when I change the tire myself. I'd rather have proper weights clipped on than something I taped on anyway.

The only problem for me is getting there with the wheel off my bike.

Ahh, but you can do it on your fork.
My dealer used tape-on weights, so I don't think it really matters much.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Ahh, but you can do it on your fork.
My dealer used tape-on weights, so I don't think it really matters much.

I didn't think about that. I don't think my assigned parking space is level, but I can do it at a close-by gas station (most have level areas by the air pump). Park bike a block away, walk home, grab rear stand, walk back, ???, profit.

Wait, my crappy Harbor Freight Haul Master rear stand's swingarm paddle adapters do not hang level either. Crap. I'll put some cardboard under one side if needed or something.