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Old July 16th, 2009, 09:28 PM   #1
AnarchoMoltov
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Wiring a DIODE for 4 L.E.D turn signals

If you have changed your 4 stock turn signals to 4 L.E.D. turn signals, you will need to wire a DIODE under your dash to keep the opposite side from flashing, when you activate your turn signal..Here is a link to a DIODE you can buy, http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/de...an_800_Classic ...You can even make your own if yer a cheap ass... This is only needed if you have L.E.D's in all four corners... I have proton flushmount L.E.D's in front and Bikemonkey L.E.D. integrated tail light in back..I also have a, acumen universal L.E.D. flasher relay...I noticed my opposite side flashing very lightly one night, when I activated my turn signal, and that can be confusing to a cager, and dangerous for us..My turn signal indicator light was also not as bright as it should have been, when I converted to 4 L.E.D's...But after I wired in this DIODE all works perfectly, and the indicator light is as bright as it was with the stock signals installed..

1. Get behind your dash...I had everything removed already, except for tail section, because I was removing the kleen air system (thanks 2 kkim's D.I.Y. thread) Basically you'll have to remove the front piece (headlight section) to access the back of your dash....

2. Find your indicator light wires from the back of dash...They will be the GREEN and GRAY wires...

3. Cut both wires with enough slack to wire them again...Wire the BLUE wire from the DIODE to the GREEN wire on the indicator light

4.Then wire the 2 RED wires that branch off from the DIODE to the GREEN and GRAY wires that you cut, that are leading to the harnesses.. There should still be a GRAY wire coming from the back of the indicator bulb that is not connected to anything yet.....That GRAY wire is now the ground wire..

5.What I did was splice into a ground wire with the GRAY wire that was coming from the back of the indicator light..The BLACK and YELLOW wire, right next to the indicator light is a ground wire.

6.Check to see if your signals are now working properly, and check to see if your indicator light is now brightly lit...If everything is fine, solder, shrink tube, electrical tape......

Hopefully this will help some one...I give credit to novak2k9 for all pics, I put together his posts, when he was trying to figure out how to wire in a DIODE..
If it wasnt for his posts trying to figure out how to do this, and what he ended up coming up with, I would be screwed because it is confusing with no direction on this...So thanks 2 novak2k9....

Maybe some 1 can put this together better than I can, but I think this should be added to the D.I.Y. threads for those looking to convert fully to L.E.D.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dash pre diode.jpg (72.5 KB, 657 views)
File Type: jpg dash and harness.jpg (91.0 KB, 669 views)
File Type: jpg diode installed.jpg (14.4 KB, 2499 views)
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Old July 17th, 2009, 06:40 AM   #2
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nice DIY man...
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Old July 17th, 2009, 07:44 AM   #3
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thanks for posting this! You might want to type it up for the wiki as well!
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Old July 17th, 2009, 01:30 PM   #4
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Hey thats A good Idea but I have a less complicated one...simply leave the stock signals connected to their wires and hide them within the bike and cover them....put the Led or what ever aftermarket signals you are going with where you want them and walla your good to go...I can post pictures of how I did this if you all want as Im working on my fronts right now...(i turned the rears into strips along time ago) I am going to have a strip for the front lights and I am also going to put a strip on the side fairings on the lower right portion near the small vent/ indentation.
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Old July 17th, 2009, 02:04 PM   #5
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I dont know anything about doing it that way, never heard of that or tried it..
I know this way definitely works as I have done it, and novak2k9 has done it.
And its actually the recommended way to do it on metric bikes, with a single indicator..Also this way prevents you from having to install resistors, that can melt plastics...Your way sounds easier though..But if you have a diode, and the front piece off, its actually not that hard to do it this way..

Plus I've already sold 1 of my stock signals, and am trying to sell the rest..lol...Need to get cash for more upgrades......
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Old July 17th, 2009, 08:26 PM   #6
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lol ok well in that case you need the di0de but my way does work and has been flawless for two months.....I think its because the Leds consume such little power that they are able to actually blink in sink wit the front signals even though they are hooked up to the same power source.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 12:51 PM   #7
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Will be using this soon enough, Thanks in advance! I'm sure its less complicated than it looks. Hm.. i bought the diode, but hell if i remember where i put it... oh and thanks for the link!
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Old February 18th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #8
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nice DIY man...
Thought you did one on this too
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Old February 18th, 2010, 06:43 PM   #9
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aj, make sure you use 2 diodes; one for each blinker side/circuit.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 07:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momaru View Post
aj, make sure you use 2 diodes; one for each blinker side/circuit.
+1

1N4001 should be OK i guess, we know that the bulb is a 3.4W and pulls 272 mA @ 12.5V as long as the total current on the circuit isn't over 1A you should be alright just make sure you have no incandescent bulbs on the circuit as they will draw much more current than LEDs
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Old February 18th, 2010, 07:25 PM   #11
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Yeah, I've got a pair of those 1N4001's in my dash, but I'm using stock rears in combination with my bikemonkey integrated rear... may find out I blew the diodes when I switch out the rears to LED. Might step up to 1N4004's if you're not sure.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 09:41 PM   #12
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Thought you did one on this too
I didn't do an diy. I only gave out info to do it (text and some drawings)
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Old February 18th, 2010, 10:03 PM   #13
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The 2 diodes for the dash ind. bulb DON'T pass the current for the blinkers, just for the ind. bulb, so just milliamps go through them. Keep in mind the diodes just eliminate the "LED 4-way syndrome" they don't help with flashing. What they charge for that pre-made diode isolator seems like a fair deal but you can get diodes (black round resistor-like things with a silver band at one end) out of most any old trash electronic device (car stereos, ghetto blasters, etc.) for free, if one would be so inclined and is OK with soldering. Also 1N4004 are just a higher voltage rating than 1N4001, still only 1 Amp.
Sorry but hiding stock incandescent bulbs in leu of adding 2 simple diodes and an LED flasher seems kinda weird, but maybe that's just me.

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Old February 19th, 2010, 01:27 PM   #14
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I ordered the diode that is shown on the link provided in the OP. I assumed it was all i needed, do I need another one? I hvent tried to install it yet as im waiting for the taillight first to start this project

also out of curiosity, what are my other options for wiring the ground wire?

another edit: the diode instructions say to disconnect the battery, is that necessary and how should i do that?
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Old February 19th, 2010, 01:54 PM   #15
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You should always disconnect the battery before attempting work on your bike, short circuits are easily encountered when working on the electrical system. The battery is under the riders seat. After unbolting it, (2 bolts) slide it towards the rear end and it should come out easily. Then there are a couple of screws ...
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Old February 19th, 2010, 03:10 PM   #16
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I ordered the diode that is shown on the link provided in the OP. I assumed it was all i needed, do I need another one? I hvent tried to install it yet as im waiting for the taillight first to start this project

also out of curiosity, what are my other options for wiring the ground wire?
Ahh, ok. You went with the pre-assembled kit. That already contains two diodes so you're set with what ya ordered.

Regarding the ground wire (the old gray or green depending on which you decide to use on the diode), I suppose you could lengthen the cable and find an unpainted part of the frame to ground to (there's one near the thermostat sensor housing I know), but that seems excessive to me. I'd suggest simply following the OP and crimping a small ring connector on the end and putting it on the same bolt as the other ground. I couldn't find a ring connector small enough, so I just stripped ~1" of the new grounding wire, made a loop, soldered it (that way it wouldn't come undone) and put it on the existing grounding bolt.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 07:57 PM   #17
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As for myself I'm not real big on unhooking the battery unless I'm working on the starter relay, an area that is basically unfused. Keep the key off and you should be fine. If one is uneasy around electrical systems by all means disconnect one of the leads.
The easiest ground is one of the blk/yel wires going to the dash illum. bulbs, an easy splice.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 08:09 PM   #18
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I feel like flushmounts and an integrated tail light is such an awesome look, im surprised more people havent needed to do this. I guess safety issues in moving the turn signals from being seen clearly
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Old February 19th, 2010, 08:30 PM   #19
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thats why i use the integrated tail light + led flashers my bike has no incandescent bulbs 100% LED
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 06:11 PM   #20
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Hey, guys, just got the bm tail light installed, no diode yet, but i have a question.

the lights light up once when i put the signals on, and yes there is backflow to the other side, will putting in the diode allow the lights to continually work in addition to fixing the over flow? becuase im not sure if anyone else had this problem. let me restate what exactly is happening.
-hts flushmounts
-bm integrated tail light using the DIY on this board

hit the turn signal left, left side (front and back) light up, then over flow to right, and everything stops. I push it right, same thing, then it stops. any ideas?

bout to do an oil change so ill brb for answers, thanks
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 08:16 PM   #21
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Need 2 things to fix that as it's two separate problems. The overflow to the other side blinker pair is remedied by the diode fix mentioned in this thread. The fact that the blinkers are not continuing to blink is the relay not working properly. If my limited knowledge of the operation of the relay is correct, essentially it's not getting enough load on the system due to the decreased resistance from the LED lights all 'round. In theory, if you'd just replaced one of the flasher sets with LEDs, you'd be getting the fast-flash symptom instead of the single flash due to a 'closer to correct' electrical load on the system.
A new electronic flasher relay should fix that issue.

Here's a copy of a PM I sent to someone else on the subjects, don't feel like editing atm, been a long day
Quote:
The 'diode fix' does correct the problem of all 4 turn signal LEDs lighting when one side is triggered.

In theory, you could solder a diode to each flasher on the inbound side (see diagram in link below). I don't know of anyone that's actually done this, but electrically it should work. Only drawback is it needs 4 diodes rather than 2, which is where the other arrangement for this fix comes in.
EDIT: on further thought, this would likely not work as well as the following solution:

The more common fix is a pair of linked diodes under the dash like here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=76

Then install it under your dash as shown here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24500
and diagrammed here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...&postcount=122

I can provide additional pics/pointers if needed.

I used a pair of IN4001 (50V, 1A silicone diode) when I did mine, which should be available at a local Radio Shack or other electronics store. Someone else mentioned the same model works for them, while another poster mentioned the IN4004 (a higher amperage rating but same idea). Worth noting I still have my stock flashers on the rear at the moment so I'm not 100% sure they're the exct right ones, but electrically speaking, any diode that can handle >12V and 1A+ should do ya just fine.

As for the relay, you will still need to swap it as that's a different issue than the diode-fix. We have a cheap thermal-based flasher stock, which doesn't handle the decreased electrical load well (hence the fast-flash). Anything that fits our stock plug (2 pins perpendicular to one another, I can get a pic if you want one before pulling your bike apart) that's rated for LED use should work. Someone quoted an FL-32 relay from their local auto parts store. Someone else cited using this one after modding the plug a little http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?mo...uct&id_prd=162. Yet another person says the LFS-1-FLAT from this site works, also after a little connector alteration http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Fflashers.htm.

Might take a look thru this thread if you haven't already:http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=15282
It's long and there's a lot of info that can be confusing, but it's essentially all there.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 08:32 PM   #22
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First of all: Thank you for your help.
Second: I have an electronic flash relay that i bought when I got the flush mounts, do I need a more powerful one or something? im not sure I understand what the flasher relay has to do with it considering I replaced the thermal one with an electric one.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 09:56 PM   #23
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WOW...
both the front and back LED's work with the old flasher relay after the DIODE has been installed.
I have some good pictures of the diode installation which i would love to contribute, also a video of my old flasher relay working with the led's, yet it makes a REALLy weird noise. let me get those off my camera.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:02 PM   #24
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The BM LEDs do have built in resistors, 5W per side. My guess is that they are blinking faster?
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:35 PM   #25
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Pictures of Diode Installation, it's pretty straight forward once you get under the dash, which is also very simple. I HIGHLY suggest anyone that wants to do this, to order the diode provided in the link in the OP.

You need splicing equipment/soldering tools.

From left to right and then dowards..
1.Location where ground wire will be grounded.

2. Diode and wires from link in OP.

3.Wire used for grounding (black wire).

4. Crimp a ring connector to one end of the black wire (ground wire).

5. Take the turn signal bulb out from it's hole in the dash, it has a green and gray wire. (top middle hole in picture)

6. Cut the green and gray wires with enough slack to solder.

7. Solder the black (ground wire) to the gray wire on the back of the bulb. Solder the blue wire to green wire on the back of bulb.

8. Solder one red wire to the green wire that you disconnected from the bulb. Solder the other red wire to the gray wire that you disconnected from the bulb.

9. Plug the bulb back into the back of the dash with the blue and black wires now soldered on.

10. Unscrew the screw in the first picture and then screw back together with the black wire with the ring connector, IN ADDITION to the black and yellow wire that was just unscrewed.

11. Check your red wires are correct.

12. Check your black and blue wires are correct.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:39 PM   #26
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they bm lights seem to blink faster. the flasher relay makes a really funny noise
ignore the ghostface killah album playin in the back

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:13 PM   #27
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hum, you did connect the bike monkey correctly right?

I hear that sound, definitely sounds weird, the relay I have doesn't make a sound.

yellow to gray
blue to green

What are the ratings on your electronic relay?
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:25 PM   #28
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oh and, why isn't your red light coming on?

It should always be on when you turn the key.

take a look at my vid.

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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
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In theory, you could solder a diode to each flasher on the inbound side (see diagram in link below). I don't know of anyone that's actually done this, but electrically it should work. Only drawback is it needs 4 diodes rather than 2.
No, this will not work as the problem is that the dash ind. bulb combines the L & R wires through the filament which, now that all 4 are LED's, conducts enough to power the unselected side. When all 4 were bulbs and took much more current that was not a factor as current would still flow to the unselected side but not enough to fire the bulbs. Yes the 2 diodes (or 1 dual diode module) is the only way to do it.
Not all flashers marked "electronic" will work correctly with LED's. Get an LED specific flasher.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 12:18 AM   #30
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i have no idea why the red light isnt coming on
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 01:14 AM   #31
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so i prob wired the bm taillight wrong, thought i did it right, johnthecrhon, you seem to know pretty much everything about the bm tail light, how did you set it up so you can run both the stock and integrated signals?
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 01:35 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by DarkNinja52 View Post
so i prob wired the bm taillight wrong, thought i did it right, johnthecrhon, you seem to know pretty much everything about the bm tail light, how did you set it up so you can run both the stock and integrated signals?
Don't mean to butt in, but I posted how I did my stock & integrated blinkers here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...8&postcount=80
This setup hasn't given me any trouble in 5,000mi

Jon, I'm sure you've got a cleaner/more electrically correct way of doing it. Any chance BM changed the electrical setup on the light to not have the running red lights come on between amber blinks? Or, god forbid, perhaps a blown component within the light itself?

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Originally Posted by kevlar250 View Post
No, this will not work as the problem is that the dash ind. bulb combines the L & R wires through the filament which, now that all 4 are LED's, conducts enough to power the unselected side. When all 4 were bulbs and took much more current that was not a factor as current would still flow to the unselected side but not enough to fire the bulbs. Yes the 2 diodes (or 1 dual diode module) is the only way to do it.
Not all flashers marked "electronic" will work correctly with LED's. Get an LED specific flasher.
Thanks for the clarification regarding flashers.
I agree that's how the stock flashers work (relying on a relatively high minimum current to light the incandescents and total resistance to keep the signal on just one side of the bike) but don't see how that specifically precludes another arrangement of diodes than the 'most common solution'. However on further thought, I agree that a diode per flasher probably wouldn't work as well, as that arrangement would cause the indicator lamp to be unpowered.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 07:44 AM   #33
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I agree that a diode per flasher probably wouldn't work as well, as that arrangement would cause the indicator lamp to be unpowered.
Well, the dash indicator lamp would still be powered with a diode out at all 4 flashers (bulbs) as you know diodes just allow current to travel 1 way through them. Since current never flows backwards from the flasher bulbs the diodes would not have any effect on the circuit other than dropping a half a volt or so to the bulb, all 4 (if they were LED's) would still flash. Doing diodes at the dash indicator bulb is another story as that is the only place that L & R are joined together through that bulb.
I also want to know why the BM red is not lighting up, keep us informed!
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 11:45 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momaru View Post
Don't mean to butt in, but I posted how I did my stock & integrated blinkers here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...8&postcount=80
This setup hasn't given me any trouble in 5,000mi

Jon, I'm sure you've got a cleaner/more electrically correct way of doing it. Any chance BM changed the electrical setup on the light to not have the running red lights come on between amber blinks? Or, god forbid, perhaps a blown component within the light itself?
Youre not butting in at all, i need all the help i can get, trust me. I appreciate it. kinda hard to tell what you did in your pictures. For mine I just wired the yellow and blue wires to where the turn signals have the connectors under the seat.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 11:47 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevlar250 View Post
No, this will not work as the problem is that the dash ind. bulb combines the L & R wires through the filament which, now that all 4 are LED's, conducts enough to power the unselected side. When all 4 were bulbs and took much more current that was not a factor as current would still flow to the unselected side but not enough to fire the bulbs. Yes the 2 diodes (or 1 dual diode module) is the only way to do it.
Not all flashers marked "electronic" will work correctly with LED's. Get an LED specific flasher.
Thanks kevlar
I'll hit up autozone when i get chance for an LED specific flasher. Do you know the name of any that have the two prongs the way they would fit into the plug so i dont have to man-handle it so it works right?
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 01:42 PM   #36
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Not offhand, they do need to be wired in properly polarity-wise, if they don't work just turn it around. The LF1-S-Flat from superbrightleds.com is the one I like. You can remove the spade terminals from the plastic connector and swap them if the polarity is wrong, or just insert them w/o the plastic connector and tape it up. I used an "electronic" flasher from Autozone and it still wouldn't flash the LED's on my Zuk until I used a loading resistor. Since I did the diode mod and used an LED for the dash ind. bulb I put the resistor across the dash LED which would load it if either side were selected. Instead of a huge 8 to 10 ohm resistor I only needed a 1000 ohm 1/2 watt one. If I would have left the incand. bulb in the dash it would have worked fine.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 02:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkNinja52 View Post
so i prob wired the bm taillight wrong, thought i did it right, johnthecrhon, you seem to know pretty much everything about the bm tail light, how did you set it up so you can run both the stock and integrated signals?
Hey aj, well I have a different setup for my system as I have made it plug and play no cutting necessary. But this setup was only available if you bought it from my group buy.

But its basicly the same, the blue from the BM tail light into the green going to the stock left turn signal and the yellow from the BM tail light going into the gray right turn signal. But for the flashers to work, the stop light must receive power, or at least be grounded..

If you have a problem with the red stop light not working, changing the relay wont help, as its a whole different circuit.

I would take pics of my setup, but it wont help you as I am plug and play.


I would really like to see pics of your setup up close.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 02:15 PM   #38
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I'll post some pics later. Out of curiosity, what exactly did you do to make it plug and play? Also, what did you do to make the stock signals work with the integrated ones? i know you offered both options with your group buy, but i was really interested in doing it all myself. what spare parts did you have to order to make it plug and play?
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 02:23 PM   #39
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2 sets of these connectors, one from each side. This would allow them to be plug and play while also allowing stock signals to function.




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Old March 3rd, 2010, 02:25 PM   #40
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Thats what i figured but i can't figure out how you would set that up in order for everythign to work correctly
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