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Old April 5th, 2017, 10:27 AM   #1
Jerrytheclown
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Question Looking to buy a fixer-upper 2007 Ninja 250r as a first bike. Good idea?

HI y'all! I'm new to the world of motorcycles, having just gotten my permit and completed an MSF course and I'm looking for a first bike. I took the course on am old Ninja and I really liked it. Thing is, I really need transportation right now but I don't have the 2-3K to cough up at the moment so I was looking to buy a super cheap scooter off a friend to tide me over while I save the money. But then, I found a guy selling a beat up 2007 Ninja 250r on Craigslist for $600 which is ludicrously cheap. Link for the pictures and seller description: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...071062323.html
Basically, to summarize, it's been dropped. Apparently no serious mechanical issues, but dent and cracks in the fairings, banged up rear rotor, possibly slightly crooked handle bars, and a leaky hose somewhere.

So here my dilema: I'm very very tempted to buy this bike so I can skip the whole scooter thing. I consider myself good with my hands and tinkering with stuff but I have no experience with bikes whatsoever. I can learn on the fly (and I think it would be good to learn more about repairing the bike anyway) and I've been told Ninjas are easy to get parts for. But at the same time, I don't want to buy it and then end up with issues I can't fix. So, for all you experienced Ninja riders and mechanics here: how bad does it look? Is it fixable for someone like me, or should I pass?

Thanks!
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Old April 5th, 2017, 10:38 AM   #2
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Welcome to the world of ninjas!

I'm not sure I'd take on a bike with problems deeper than cosmetics for a first bike. I bought mine, a 2006, for $1700 with no problems, so you shouldn't have to spend a ton of money.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 10:58 AM   #3
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Hello Bob, it's good to meet you. A Ninja 250 is an excellent motorcycle to start on. I've ridden for 40 years, and I find my Ninja 250 is still an excellent motorcycle, both for fun rides in the twisties, and for low cost transportation.

If you're experienced with working on engines and mechanical things, getting one like in your link could be a great way to get a motorcycle cheaply. If you're not, CaliGrrl is right, it's probably not a good way to get started.

Sometimes people use the term "dropped" as a euphemism for "crashed". The motorcycle in your link has been crashed, possibly several times, judging by all the various scrapes and cracks. I don't know your financial situation, but it may be better to buy one that costs $1,000 more that's in good shape than buy that one, and end up putting $500 and a lot of time into it fixing it up. It's very easy to have parts add up to $500.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 11:14 AM   #4
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Basic principle:

Every project costs twice as much and takes three times as long as you think it will. I have found this to be consistently true in the 40-odd years I've been spinning my own wrenches. The first real job I tackled was changing the fan belt on a 1974 Volvo with nothing but a pair of pliers and a straight-bladed screwdriver. Took half the night. The next day I bought my first socket set.

That's not a $600 bike. It looks more like a $1200 bike to me, once you fix everything that's wrong.

A few thoughts:

1) You consider yourself good with your hands, but do you have any actual mechanical experience? Not saying you can't learn, but on a shoestring with no actual knowledge (and possibly no tools) you might be biting off more than you can chew at this time. If you have experience working on vehicles, halfway decent tools and a place to work on the bike, disregard.

2) If you don't have any mechanical experience or knowledge, you might not be in a good position to determine the true condition of the bike. The ad says the engine is "perfect" (at 37,000 miles... hmmmm...) and "runs well" but then goes on to detail all the ways in which it doesn't run quite right. Plus there's no way a bike that needs carb service will run well. Plus the fact that the thing got hit by a car and at minimum the fork is tweaked and likely unsafe despite what the seller says. The Ninjette doesn't have clip-ons that can rotate around the fork tube. The only way to screw up the bar alignment is to bend the bar, tweak the fork or bend the frame. Are you able to actually look at the situation with knowledge and objectivity and understand what you see?

3) You say you really need transportation but can't afford 2-3k. That puts two different kinds of pressure on you, both bad: a) You're highly motivated to get the bike working, which is not the same thing as making it right and you might cut corners; and b) you might not have the money to invest in what's needed to make it right in the first place, namely parts and tools. Which leads to mono-buttocked solutions in the name of false economy.

4) "The carb could use a cleaning" is a warning sign of neglected maintenance. Any responsible owner will never let the carb get to that state. I'd be wondering if the owner was in the habit of attending to routine maintenance (regular oil and filter changes, proper storage procedure, brake fluid flushes, plugs, valve adjustments, etc.)


Were it me and I had no mechanical experience, I'd pass and start saving to get the scratch together for a solid bike with no issues and a known history. Were it me and I knew exactly what I was looking at, and provided there were no serious issues, I'd grab it as a beater. But I'd budget at least several hundred to deal with needed repairs and tools, etc.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 11:37 AM   #5
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IMHO...

If you need something now, and plan to use it for regular transportation, then pass. Like the others have stated, buy something that is in good shape and ready to ride.

If, on the other hand, you want to learn - then go for it! Yes, parts are readily availalble, and individually inexpensive, but, like others have stated, parts add up quickly.

From personal experience, simple fixer uppers aren't so simple. I have two that I am working on right now, that have taken about 6 months each. I however, have another, good running, registered and isured MC, for those days when I want to ride.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 12:09 PM   #6
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My first Ninja 250 was a 07 model with 6k miles and salvage title, with body some plastic damage, broken steering stop and misaligned forks.
I bought it for $450 back in 2010. I took apart the front end to check if the forklegs are straight, re-aligned the front end, rode it around for broken plastic pieces for 6 months and sold it for $850 at 6k miles later when it needed new tires/chain/sprokets.

My current Ninja is a 04 model with 8k miles, purchased back in 2013 for $850.
Now it has little over 18k miles. Annual insurance is $35, I use it for my commute between NJ and NYC/Brooklyn, and on weekends between NYC and Philadelphia suburbs.
Fortunately, the lack of engine displacement doesn't limit the ability to ride the Ninja 250 anywhere for me.
I have plenty of other bikes that are more powerful and capable for different type of riding. But I will likely always keep a pre-gen Ninja 250 because of its low cost of operation/ownership.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 02:23 PM   #7
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Do you have all your riding gear already? If not, you need to leave some cash available for that.

What is your total budget?

You could do some fixing on that and it would look better, but there's plenty to do.

It may be worth $600, but I'd certainly try starting lower than that. He said the tires were new, but that rear doesn't look it to me.

We bought a really beat, but running, 1990 without fairings for $150. Not great, but with new tires, some carb tuning, and suspension work it rides a lot better than it looks.

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Old April 5th, 2017, 08:00 PM   #8
Jerrytheclown
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Wow thanks for all the detailed replies! Seems like a great community here. So it seems like the consensus is that it's probably not a great idea since there's probably more wrong with it under the uh...seat than the seller is letting on. Shame

On a side note, does anyone here know a good place to get a ninja other than Craigslist or Cycletrader? If I can get the bike for under say $1500 I could possibly piece together the money to buy it now instead of having waste money on an interim scooter. But the lowest price I can find on those two sites is about $2000.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 11:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrytheclown View Post
HI y'all! I'm new to the world of motorcycles, having just gotten my permit and completed an MSF course and I'm looking for a first bike. I took the course on am old Ninja and I really liked it. Thing is, I really need transportation right now but I don't have the 2-3K to cough up at the moment so I was looking to buy a super cheap scooter off a friend to tide me over while I save the money. But then, I found a guy selling a beat up 2007 Ninja 250r on Craigslist for $600 which is ludicrously cheap. Link for the pictures and seller description: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...071062323.html
Basically, to summarize, it's been dropped. Apparently no serious mechanical issues, but dent and cracks in the fairings, banged up rear rotor, possibly slightly crooked handle bars, and a leaky hose somewhere.

So here my dilema: I'm very very tempted to buy this bike so I can skip the whole scooter thing. I consider myself good with my hands and tinkering with stuff but I have no experience with bikes whatsoever. I can learn on the fly (and I think it would be good to learn more about repairing the bike anyway) and I've been told Ninjas are easy to get parts for. But at the same time, I don't want to buy it and then end up with issues I can't fix. So, for all you experienced Ninja riders and mechanics here: how bad does it look? Is it fixable for someone like me, or should I pass?

Thanks!
I'm 69 years old and have been riding for 50 years and never had anyone touch my bikes for repairs in my life. I see a $600.00 motorcycle hungry for $1,500.00 in T.L.C. and parts. I just bought a 2007 250 Ninja with 9,725 miles on it for $1,500.00 and it's in excellent condition. I consider the little Ninja a very sophisticated piece of engineering and a very durable design but it won't take a load of abuse. Judgeing by the way the bike has been ridden I can only imagine the condition of the engine and drive train. That gas tank will cost you about $900.00 new and maybe $400.00 used - if you can find one.

If I were you I'd take a deep breath, save your money and "scoot" around L.A. for a while. Actually I think L.A. would be a fun place to own a scooter (just stay off the freakin' freeways.) As Randy Neuman sang "I love L.A." - I do too!

If I were you
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Old April 5th, 2017, 11:53 PM   #10
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Do you have all your riding gear already? If not, you need to leave some cash available for that.

What is your total budget?

You could do some fixing on that and it would look better, but there's plenty to do.

It may be worth $600, but I'd certainly try starting lower than that. He said the tires were new, but that rear doesn't look it to me.

We bought a really beat, but running, 1990 without fairings for $150. Not great, but with new tires, some carb tuning, and suspension work it rides a lot better than it looks.

Dang that old girl looks darn good with out all that plastic hangin' off it. You need a front fender Dude!
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Old April 6th, 2017, 01:27 AM   #11
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CL, Cycletrader and eBay are the go-to sources these days. Be patient and start saving every penny. Don't get attached to any one bike, but do be ready to jump when the right one comes along (which is why you should save every penny, so you have the money in hand). I've been known to wait and watch for many months but it really does pay off.

Three rules of buying anything used:

1) If it feels wrong in ANY way, it is. Stories about the owner's second wife's third cousin, etc., rationalization for paperwork that doesn't match, "oh it just fell over in the driveway" when there are big longitudinal scratches on the fairing... Walk.

2) Anyone who "needs to get" a certain amount is delusional. An item -- any item -- is worth precisely what the market will bear, not one penny more.

3) Cash talks. Stand firm and be prepared to walk if the deal isn't right. The siren song of a gleaming bike can be strong... but you must resist and think rationally.


Other tips: Ideally you want to see a pure OEM bike. New levers and bar ends, aftermarket turn signals, etc are all signs of a crash. Straight pipe exhausts to make it obnoxiously loud, LED kits and HIDs on a bike that is otherwise ratty are signs of misplaced priorities and, frankly, stupidity. Tipovers are no big deal, but long, deep gouges mean the bike slid. Rusty fasteners, non-standard hardware, etc. are signs of poor maintenance (you'd be shocked). Oil that is milky is bad. Funky smelling smoke is bad. Oil that smells burnt is bad.

I bike that's warmed up and running when you arrive might be hard to start and the owner is hiding something.

You can also tell a lot about the bike by looking at the owner and where he/she lives. An older person with a neat garage that has a tool cabinet and a workbench... bingo. That's a responsible adult who cares about the bike. Someone with a garage that looks like a bomb went off in it, and with stuff hidden under piles of junk, not so much.
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Old April 6th, 2017, 06:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Someone with a garage that looks like a bomb went off in it, and
with stuff hidden under piles of junk, not so much.
Hey, I resemble that!

Seriously, I'm not sure you should generalize in that case. I've seen neat, spotless garages owned by guys who know very little about maintaining vehicles.
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Old April 6th, 2017, 06:56 AM   #13
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Hey, I resemble that!

Seriously, I'm not sure you should generalize in that case. I've seen neat, spotless garages owned by guys who know very little about maintaining vehicles.
Agreed. It's just one of many indicators.
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Old April 6th, 2017, 09:18 AM   #14
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I would not recommend getting this fixer upper as your very first bike, unless you have the time and money to invest in it.

I've done fixer uppers before,




but I have the mechanical experience, time and money to take said bike from a pile of parts, to a legal, safe, road worthy machine.

The cost factor is the most misleading, it always takes more than you think, especially the smaller items, as they will nickel and dime you to death. So if your thinking it will be cheap think again.

The other side is mechanical ability, or lack there of it. There are many threads here, as well as any other forums, that start out the same way, with aggravation, frustration, following endlessly posts.

So if you need a bike now, buy one that is ready now, spend the extra money now, and it will save you money in the end.

If your looking for a long term learning project bike, then pick it up, but even for $600, it's over priced as far as projects go.
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Old April 6th, 2017, 11:03 AM   #15
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Hey!! I just posted looking to sell my 2008 Ninja 250R! If you're looking for one we might be able to come to a deal. This bike has been my main commute since then and now I have it at about 76,556 miles!! I have been doing all of the maintenance to it (oil filter, oil change, brake pads, new tires, sprocket change rear and front along with chain when miles have asked for it, also change front brake line and front rotor).I used the acar app to keep all records and have all invoices when I took the bike to the shop. Let me know if you want to meet and check and test the bike dude! Thanks in advance. If you want pictures let me know and I can add them here or email them to you.
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Old April 6th, 2017, 01:38 PM   #16
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Old April 6th, 2017, 01:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrytheclown View Post
HI y'all! I'm new to the world of motorcycles.........So, for all you experienced Ninja riders and mechanics here: how bad does it look? Is it fixable for someone like me, or should I pass?
Welcome, Bob !!!

It is very bad: you should pass on this one.

Better options if you broaden your searching territory:

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...074742365.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sg...077036022.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...067576296.html

Find more tips here:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Riders

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_new..._work%22_bikes

You can negotiate price, but not hidden problems that you acquire.
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