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Old October 10th, 2011, 10:47 AM   #1
reaperw
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Hope i did this right - chain adjustment

Well i lube and adjusted my chain today,but when adjusted i got mix up well not really just .I looseing the shaft then use the small adjuster nut and adjust it to .9 inch chain slack which was all good until i started puting everything back to tight.I tighting up the adjuster nuts,then stuck a 17mm on the left side of the axle and a 24mm on the right side of the axle nut with the cotter pin and to spec 80ftlb.This is where i got the cotter pin did not line up so i tighten it up alittle more to line up the pin and the hole in the bolt dose this mean i over tighten it.I took it for a ride everything seem fine no rear sway.


p.s why if i did not have the socket on the 17mm left side would the right side almost seem loose,but as soon as i put the 17mm back on and tryed to tq it it was tight



Maybe i am over thinking things
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Old October 10th, 2011, 10:53 AM   #2
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I need to adjust my chain, but I dont even know what you are talking about so im thinking I should have someone else do it... lol
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Old October 10th, 2011, 10:58 AM   #3
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Sounds a little weird. Once things are tighten to spec, the axle should not spin whether the 17mm is on or not. Can you provide a short video of the concern so you can help us help you?
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Old October 10th, 2011, 11:15 AM   #4
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The Service Manual alludes to the necessity of getting the cotter pin in even if it means loosing the nut a little. I think the goal is to get the torque to be close but not exceed 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb). IMO the torque should be 67-72 ft·lb which would probably be more accurate.

•Tighten the axle nut.
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
•Turn the wheel,measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary.
•Insert a new cotter pin [A].


NOTE
○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do
not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the
nut clockwise [B up to next alignment.
○It should be within 30°.
○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past
the nearest hole.
•Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut [B].

____________________________________________________________

Although this does not affect the chain adjustment, there is also a little used technique outlined in the Service Manual which reverses the axle and axle nut.

NOTE
○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and
tighten the axle nut.
•Install a new cotter pin.


When you insert the axle from the right side of the bike it makes lining up the caliper and rotor so much easier. It allows you to be able to hold the wheel and axle w/ caliper at the same time. Once the axle is almost completely thru the only other piece that has to be aligned is the adjuster on the left side. Re-install is a piece of cake and there are no problems with anything. I did notice when tightening the nut when it is on the left (chain) side, there is a slight movement of the axle to the rear as opposed the the front when the nut is on the right (caliper) side. Just my small observation.
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File Type: jpg DSCF0008.JPG (178.6 KB, 18 views)
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File Type: pdf Drive Chain Slack.pdf (99.1 KB, 30 views)
File Type: pdf Wheels_Rims.pdf (76.7 KB, 30 views)
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Old October 10th, 2011, 11:57 AM   #5
gt_turbo
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i do the same thing all the time. after getting the torque on the axle bolt, if the cotter pin wont go thru. i just tighten a little bit more to get the cotter pin in. haven't seen anything negative come from it.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt_turbo View Post
i do the same thing all the time. after getting the torque on the axle bolt, if the cotter pin wont go thru. i just tighten a little bit more to get the cotter pin in. haven't seen anything negative come from it.
Yeah I agree but her earlier statement to me is a concern and may be her biggest question.


Quote:
Originally Posted by reaperw View Post
p.s why if i did not have the socket on the 17mm left side would the right side almost seem loose,but as soon as i put the 17mm back on and tryed to tq it it was tight
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
Sounds a little weird. Once things are tighten to spec, the axle should not spin whether the 17mm is on or not. Can you provide a short video of the concern so you can help us help you?



sorry maybe i said it worng. It was tq to 79ftlbs,then the hole would not line up so i had to tighten the 24mm a little more and the 17mm would move as well if i did not have the wrench on it and holding it..But now since everything is tight nothing moves.Is this like a a bolt that gose right threw so you have to hold one end in order to get the othere end to tq
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:07 PM   #8
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this is just one thing i dont get then in a day or two i am going to be like omg thats how it goes.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:16 PM   #9
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No worries then. You did a great job!
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:21 PM   #10
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Tightening to the next cotter pin notch on the axle nut is probably less then 1 lb ft of incremental torque. Good job.

Some bikes will be a bit out of adjustment after torquing down the nut , or the chain might be a little tighter. Recheck slack after torquing.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 01:02 PM   #11
reaperw
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iam such a loss for though right now,lol i just relize its a bolt and the head is on the left side omg i feel like a idot .dont know why i though it was a bolt with two nuts on it,not a bolt and one nut.







thanks guys
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Old October 10th, 2011, 01:12 PM   #12
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No worries, these folks are a pretty forgiving bunch. I can't imagine how much more forgiving they'd be if you posted even more girlfriend pics.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 02:24 PM   #13
reaperw
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Ok if thats what you guys want as a sorry when I get home I wil
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Old October 10th, 2011, 03:58 PM   #14
reaperw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex View Post
No worries, these folks are a pretty forgiving bunch. I can't imagine how much more forgiving they'd be if you posted even more girlfriend pics.



as promiss lol pic of g/f at our resort.
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Old September 29th, 2022, 04:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
The Service Manual alludes to the necessity of getting the cotter pin in even if it means loosing the nut a little. I think the goal is to get the torque to be close but not exceed 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb). IMO the torque should be 67-72 ft·lb which would probably be more accurate.

•Tighten the axle nut.
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
•Turn the wheel,measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary.
•Insert a new cotter pin [A].


NOTE
○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do
not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the
nut clockwise [B up to next alignment.
○It should be within 30°.
○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past
the nearest hole.
•Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut [B].

____________________________________________________________

Although this does not affect the chain adjustment, there is also a little used technique outlined in the Service Manual which reverses the axle and axle nut.

NOTE
○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and
tighten the axle nut.
•Install a new cotter pin.


When you insert the axle from the right side of the bike it makes lining up the caliper and rotor so much easier. It allows you to be able to hold the wheel and axle w/ caliper at the same time. Once the axle is almost completely thru the only other piece that has to be aligned is the adjuster on the left side. Re-install is a piece of cake and there are no problems with anything. I did notice when tightening the nut when it is on the left (chain) side, there is a slight movement of the axle to the rear as opposed the the front when the nut is on the right (caliper) side. Just my small observation.
I just realized this is an error in the EX250J service manual for carb-spec bikes. The FI-spec EX250K service manual has a publishing date a few months later and has many corrections that were never made to the carb spec manual. For example, there are references to a center stand or a lower fairing in the EX250J manual which were corrected/removed from the EX250K manual along with numerous typos and other mistakes.

Since this isn’t something you’d expect to be different between FI and carb’d bikes we can assume it was another error that was corrected. Even the manual that made the error never shows it inserted from the right. It comes with it inserted from the left, the parts diagram shows it inserted from the left, both service manuals only show it inserted from the left, and the only outlier is that one line that they quickly changed a few months later… again telling us to insert it from the left.

Now, they also never never revised the EX250J manual or printed a supplement to correct it, meaning it was probably deemed not important enough. I don’t think we can call that official acceptance but it seems they are OK with shops continuing to do it backwards. It is definitely easier, of course, so I’m torn about whether to continue doing it that way or not. Can anyone think of a good reason it should insert from the left?
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Old September 29th, 2022, 11:40 PM   #16
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Nope, torque and tension on axle is exay same regardless if inserted from left or right. Same clamping force either way.

I prefer from right since hit will hold brake-caliper bracket in proper position so you can focus on installing wheel. I prefer to roll it into position and use left toe to lift wheel up into position. Slide brake-disc through caliper and shove axle rest of way in. Tighten nut to spec.
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