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Old January 6th, 2016, 12:47 AM   #1
Linkin
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I got me an R6









Got it cheap, as far as R6's go. Just a tad over 50,000K's on it.

So, what's wrong with it, you ask?

Carbs, can be hard to start, stalls, low power & bogging below 4,000 RPM
Receipts say has 1 hotter range plugs than standard
Crappy smoked LED indicators on the front that you can't see
Had about 15 psi in both tyres
Chain was dry as a nun's nasty
Can kick the gears up without using clutch or adjusting throttle, seems very sensitive

Trying to be a good nanny state subject, but fixing carbs shall require diagnostic riding through the local backroads, no?
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Old January 6th, 2016, 02:38 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkin View Post
Carbs, can be hard to start, stalls, low power & bogging below 4,000 RPM
Receipts say has 1 hotter range plugs than standard
Crappy smoked LED indicators on the front that you can't see
Had about 15 psi in both tyres
Chain was dry as a nun's nasty
Can kick the gears up without using clutch or adjusting throttle, seems very sensitive
That's a pre-owned R6 alright.
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Old January 6th, 2016, 02:42 AM   #3
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I paid well below market price
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Old January 6th, 2016, 03:54 AM   #4
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Old January 7th, 2016, 01:19 AM   #5
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Old January 7th, 2016, 01:42 AM   #6
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Old January 7th, 2016, 05:03 AM   #7
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Old January 7th, 2016, 11:05 AM   #8
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wait... you didn't crash the 250's, did you???


just kidding, grats on the new bike!!
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Old January 8th, 2016, 04:41 AM   #9
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Haven't crashed the FZR.

Bike started fine first go today with half choke and no throttle, but died at the petrol station and was hard to get going. Needed half throttle just to get it going.

Going to do the carbies, valve clearances, and maybe the cam chain.
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Old January 8th, 2016, 07:22 PM   #10
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Spoke to the bike shop that serviced this bike for the previous owner. They say it's the float needle and seat/valve. The seat/valve is pressed into the carb body and has an oring, which is what goes apparently. Time to find some replacement needles & seats.
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Old January 9th, 2016, 01:21 PM   #11
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Carbs...i did a rack off a "no start" '01 R6 (US model) 3 years ago. It had sat dormant for years.

The carbs, once off, were standard operating procedure...but R & R was very difficult/tight. I'd suggest while in there to not limit the repair or limit focus to needles/seats but to do the whole enchilada. You *don't* want to do this twice!

Owner from Brooklyn, NY....I called her "Brooklyn Betty".....instant start, ran great when completed.

Good luck with it, a fun bike!
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File Type: jpg r6 rack.jpg (158.8 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg r6 brooklyn betty.jpg (162.9 KB, 10 views)
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Old January 9th, 2016, 10:15 PM   #12
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I'll start with the carbs and also do the valve clearances. It started fine today, went for a good 100km ride, stopped at a pub for cold drinks and lunch. Started fine again and went home. Waited 2 hours and now it won't start again... so I just greased the chain and checked tyre pressures instead. Was going to go fill up the tank and see if my fuel consumption is right. Should about 6L/100KM.
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Old January 10th, 2016, 04:07 AM   #13
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Definitely carby issues. Flooding the bike and fouling the plugs, won't start again until they dry off. Ports had fuel in them when I got the carbies out.









I have float needles left over from my 3LN1 carb overhaul. I didn't use them because I mainly needed the emulsion tube and needle. They look fairly similar. Wondering if I can get away with using them.

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Old January 10th, 2016, 07:49 AM   #14
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you may want to do some cross referencing on part #'s between the 250 and r6.

The needle on the left looks aftermarket for Keihin, the right OEM. Note overall length differs ever so slightly, at minimum float tangs would likely need an adjust to compensate. I'd suggest to dress the seats prior to install/adjustment. And regardless, remove and assure the pilots are clear while you're in there.

Do you have the means to wet test (fill the bowls on the bench)??
Making a crude, temp wood stand or hanging them and using a remote gravity feed to confirm both the fuel levels are correct and valves are holding

I'd strongly advise doing so, rather than just mounting them and winging it.

How'd you like the access to the clamp screws on inner carb manifold rubbers?
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Old January 10th, 2016, 01:17 PM   #15
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All the jets are soaking in threebond. I tried to pull one of the seats but it just wouldn't budge and I didn't want to damage it.

The left needle is what was in there, the right is a Mikuni

I decided the easiest way to get the carbs off was just to pull them towards the back of the bike, sure enough they popped out without a hassle. The screws weren't all that tight (thanks bike shop! useless...)
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Old January 10th, 2016, 01:45 PM   #16
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You have replacement seats but lack correct Keihin float valves?

I'd be hesitant to substitute Mikuni float valves, who knows, they may work. Thats something I've never tried, frankly.

But I would urge you to source correct rather than experiment (gamble?)


I'm sure the screws were left loose because access is a BITCH. you'll encounter this upon installation.
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Old January 10th, 2016, 02:12 PM   #17
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I think your shop has supplied bad info...I'm not seeing seats as a replaceable part (in a US parts breakdown). No oring listed either.

This indicates to me, they are pressed in, permanent.

You have seats? By whom were they supplied?

And if they were leaking, I'm sure you know to check the oil for fuel contamination.

IMHO at this point you must clean/dress the seats, replace float valves and wet bench test.
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Old January 11th, 2016, 12:15 AM   #18
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looks like a great project, I really love these bikes!
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Old January 11th, 2016, 01:00 AM   #19
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No I ordered the stuff today: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...107-00-00.html

I've been told to use a heatgun on the carb to remove the old seat, and put the new seats in the freezer plus warm up the carb body so they just drop in place.
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Old January 14th, 2016, 05:25 PM   #20
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Good luck with it, please post your results. I, for one, am inquisitive in your repair and wish
success.
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Old January 15th, 2016, 02:42 PM   #21
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Adjusting the float height has stopped fuel accumulating in the ports. However it still gets boggy and stalls / gets hard to start fully warmed up and at 4,000 RPM or under.

If I keep it above 4,000 RPM at all times it's fine. If drop below 4,000 it has a hard time getting back past it, then runs fine above 4,000 rpm

When the bike is cold the problem is not present.

I soaked all the jets in carby cleaner overnight, no difference. Some have said idle circuit passages in the carb bodies, but wouldn't that also effect the bike when it was cold?
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Old January 15th, 2016, 06:23 PM   #22
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THATS what I was referring to ("the whole enchilada") as opposed to focusing on one phase only of cleaning/setup ....cleaning the pilot circuits is an automatic while carbs are out on the bench.

Remove both the pilot screws and pilot jets ..use carb cleaner and compressed
air vigorously between the openings, back and forth, both directions.
Short of a complete strip and ultrasonic treatment, the next best method to clean those hidden, tiny passageways.
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Old January 15th, 2016, 11:50 PM   #23
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I'v fixed it... nothing to do with the carbs at all as it turns out.

The crankcase breather to airbox line was the cause. The crankcase now has a littke K&N pod filter on it, and the line to the airbox is plugged.

I discovered the problem by taking off the oil filler cap and starting the bike when hot - it was fine after doing so, and died as soon as I put the cap on. Crankcase pressure choking it.
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Old January 16th, 2016, 09:18 AM   #24
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keyboard diagnosis= the next best thing to being there
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Old November 24th, 2018, 05:09 AM   #25
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Sooo.... thread resurrection.

Long story short, the motor blew and I sold the bike... then 2 years later I found it for sale with a working motor so I bought the bike back and have been working on it since.

Motor carnage













When I got it back and gave it a clean up.




Basically a photo log of all the crap that was wrong/bodged together






















More recently starting to fix some of the crap.

























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Old November 24th, 2018, 06:09 AM   #26
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Old November 24th, 2018, 07:37 AM   #27
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Old November 24th, 2018, 07:54 AM   #28
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Thanks for sharing the photos. Showing good progress.
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Old January 12th, 2019, 03:25 AM   #29
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Got the fork seals done, replaced the brake lines with some new braided ones and fitted axle sliders. Hitting the track next month

















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Old January 12th, 2019, 03:48 AM   #30
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Awesome!! We need track pics.
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Old January 12th, 2019, 04:01 AM   #31
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If there are any photographers there on the day I will definitely make inquiries about pics.
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Old February 9th, 2019, 02:17 AM   #32
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Track day done! It was great fun. Unfortunately as I arrived, I lost the electrics. Regulator failed. Managed to keep the bike alive by disconnecting the lights and charging the battery between sessions. Got home OK as well.

Waiting on photographer to make the pics available so here are some of my own









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Old February 9th, 2019, 03:30 AM   #33
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Old February 9th, 2019, 08:25 AM   #34
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@Linkin may I ask about your experience with the Metzeler M7 tires?

I've got a set (with very few miles) on my SS800, would like to know how they did in your track scenario, street impression too, if you don't mind.

Thanks, G
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Old February 9th, 2019, 09:03 AM   #35
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I've heard those can be pretty fast.

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Old February 9th, 2019, 04:42 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
@Linkin may I ask about your experience with the Metzeler M7 tires?

I've got a set (with very few miles) on my SS800, would like to know how they did in your track scenario, street impression too, if you don't mind.

Thanks, G
I only had the rear step out slightly one time on Turn 2 (SMSP / Eastern Creek for those who have been) after being a bit heavy handed with the throttle. The previous lap I was heavily favouring the left edge and very hard on the corners, I reckon I overheated that side a bit.

Other than that they were totally fine, running 30/30 pressures. I don't have a lot of gear nor tyre warmers, so I wasn't paying close attention - more set and forget.

On the street they are good in the dry and in the wet, no problems with them at all. Metzelers are known for wearing really well. Done about 3 months / 2000km of commuting on them before the track day and there was no visible wear. Could not feel any triangulation on the front or flat spot on the rear.
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Old February 9th, 2019, 08:06 PM   #37
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Pretty bike!
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Old February 9th, 2019, 08:21 PM   #38
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@Linkin I'm finding the Metz 7R as pretty good so far, but very few miles, barely broken in (street use only).

Thanks for your experiences and quickie tire review.

Yes, that R6 no doubt a screamer!
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Old February 12th, 2019, 04:06 AM   #39
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Photographer pic

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Old February 12th, 2019, 05:25 AM   #40
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great picture. beautiful bike man, i just aint diggin the new look of sport bikes these days. the new gsxr? horrible. the 2000's decade really had some beauties..
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