March 20th, 2013, 08:39 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: andrew
Location: oakdale california
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 ninja 250 Posts: 296
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Chain issue
So after 12k miles it seems like my chain is done. It has tension in certain spots when I'm rotating the wheel (off the ground). Some parts on the chain it's really loose, and then when I rotate the wheel 1/4 of a turn the chain is super tight. I'm assuming my chain is doneskies.
That being said I'm in the market for a new chain. I think i've read that i might as well just get new sprockets as well? I'm super lazy does anyone mind telling me what size sprockets and chain a 12' ninja 250 would take? Thanks |
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March 20th, 2013, 08:47 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Michael
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE Posts: 262
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Stock sprockets are 14/45 and make sure you get a OEM or D.I.D. chain. If you want to get a little more out of the bike (especially first gear) you can go with a 15T front and your choice of rear sprockets. I went with a 15/42 set up on my bike. I have yet to ride it with this set up. Check this for any further questions and diagrams.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10273 |
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March 20th, 2013, 09:55 PM | #3 |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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Chain needs to be 520 pitch with 106 links. Stock gearing is 14T front 45T rear and will run you about $45 for a set of JT sprockets.
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March 20th, 2013, 11:21 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: andrew
Location: oakdale california
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 ninja 250 Posts: 296
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15t front sprocket would increase top speed or no?
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March 20th, 2013, 11:23 PM | #5 |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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Lowers revs at any given gear, makes 1st more useful. Top speed, doubt it.
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March 21st, 2013, 04:00 AM | #6 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Michael
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE Posts: 262
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Play around with this until you achieve the gearing you are happy with: http://www.gearingcommander.com/
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March 21st, 2013, 10:53 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Joe
Location: Florida
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 206
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
March 21st, 2013, 10:57 AM | #8 | |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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March 21st, 2013, 11:02 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Joe
Location: Florida
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 206
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March 21st, 2013, 11:08 AM | #10 |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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No problems, I've had my set for the last 8k miles and my chain/sprockets look fine. I lube my chain every 400 miles and clean it when it gets really gritty/grimey but that's only every 4k miles or so. Not sure how long I can expect them to last, probably 25k+ or more at this rate for the chain.
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March 26th, 2013, 06:16 AM | #11 |
The 2 Stroke Ninja!!
Name: Nick
Location: Sussex, NJ
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R, 1977 RD400, 72&73 RD350 75 RD200 Posts: 79
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All chains (and even belts) will always have tight and loose spots....even a brand new chain. Sometimes it is almost unnoticeable and sometimes it is very obvious. When adjusting a chain it is always best to find the tightest spot and adjust it there . If you adjust it at the loosest spot it will be too tight when it rolls around to the tightest spot.
From the way you describe just how big the difference is between the tight and loose spots it does sound like the chain is worn. There are better ways to gauge this though. Generally a chain is worn if: - You run out of adjustment. Removing a link is NOT an acceptable way to get more adjustment out of the chain. This doesn't apply to asll bikes since every bike will have a different amount of travel in the adjusters. - On the rear sprocket, at about the 3 o'clock position, if you can pull the chain off of the sprocket far enough to see light the chain is getting worn. If you can see enough light to pass something that is the same diameter as one of the pins on the chain through it is done. - Look at the shape of the teeth on the sprockets. Teeth on a new sprocket will bow out and look almost like this: (). If they look like this )( they are worn. If the teeth are hook shaped it is REALLY worn and probably should have been replaced a long time ago. Here are some pics of worn sprockets: - Worn compared to new: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwAw&dur=7766 This one is even better:http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...AwBw&iact=ricl You should ALWAYS change chain and sprockets as a set. A worn chain will quickly wear out new sprockets and vice versa. |
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