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Old January 16th, 2022, 10:10 AM   #121
shspvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
Quote"
1: Yes if you look at your own post 106 with photo which show the coolant level then if you look at your other post 111 photo the coolant level is right at very bottom of the reservoir
unQuote"

Very observant Anthony ! well done!
.....
Yah being accross the pond is a problem with using Ducattiman .... darn it !
.....
I was going to buy one small 6x16mm bolt for my RX4 as it lost one
the bolt was 50 cents the shipping was $20.00 !!!!
i didn't get it ! LOL

Bob....
Yup I hate rip off site
Go to Acer Hardware or Fastenal
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Old January 16th, 2022, 10:34 AM   #122
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In a pinch in boonies, you can use 1/4x24 to replace M6x1 bolt.

Yeah, check local hardware stores, most carry metric nowadays. I actually found M7 bolts at hardware store in Morgan Hill on my way to Laguna Seca. Needed some to hold rim-halves on my BBS wheels.

You've got nearby:
Siskiyou Forest Products
Solano's Ace Hardware

Here's my go-to source for stuff: https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/hex-.../length~16-mm/
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Old January 17th, 2022, 01:22 PM   #123
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1: Yes if you look at your own post 106 with photo which show the coolant level then if you look at your other post 111 photo the coolant level is right at very bottom of the reservoir
2: That is most likely carburetor problem as DannoXYZ posted, But I be more concerned about actually head gasket leak than carburetor right now.

Chinmay here are some options for you in your neck of the woods too look into.
https://www.thecarburetorguy.com/
and
http://finchrestorations.com.au/
I also check your local bike shop and ask about motorcycle carburetor specialist.
Hi Anthony, you were right, the coolant was low causing the radiator to become a Cho Cho train. I bought some coolant and topped up as much it could fit in the radiator and reservoir tank. Ran the engine on idle for about 15 mins, no issue (that I could see) and things seemed okay.

Thank you for taking the efforts to look up carb cleaners for my region. The ones you mentioned, they are more so historic vehicle restoration guys and don't really do modern bike carb cleaning. I called them and they flat out said no

I'm going to look around for someone else more suitable for this job or simply take her to kawi shop near me nd get them do a professional job.
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Old January 17th, 2022, 01:49 PM   #124
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Local Kawi shop most likely will NOT be able to do adequate job of carb restoration. Ask them though, they may know some ancient hermit who can actually do it.
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Old January 17th, 2022, 01:56 PM   #125
shspvr
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Originally Posted by SuspectPage3 View Post
Hi Anthony, you were right, the coolant was low causing the radiator to become a Cho Cho train. I bought some coolant and topped up as much it could fit in the radiator and reservoir tank. Ran the engine on idle for about 15 mins, no issue (that I could see) and things seemed okay.

Thank you for taking the efforts to look up carb cleaners for my region. The ones you mentioned, they are more so historic vehicle restoration guys and don't really do modern bike carb cleaning. I called them and they flat out said no

I'm going to look around for someone else more suitable for this job or simply take her to kawi shop near me nd get them do a professional job.
LoL the that so funny I take that it was Finch Restorations ? what about The Carburetor Guy.
Try google search for "australian motorcycle carburettors service" there many more.
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Old January 26th, 2022, 10:21 AM   #126
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Alright, so, I went and got a connection hose as recommended above. Connected the two remaining things correctly and started the bike. The bike starts, idles perfectly fine for some time (until it's still cold and starting to warm up).
Now there are two issues:
1) I still can't open the throttle, cuz as soon as I do that, the bike dies. If I put the choke on, it will rev up naturally to 5-6k rpm. But any more throttle and it will die.
2) As soon as the bike is hot (left it running on the spot for 7-8mins) the coolant reservoir (white container thing on side) started to bubble up, looks like the hose from the radiator is sending hot air through the hose into the bottom of reservoir.
So I panicked and turned her off and I can't dare to start her up again. I've clearly connected a hose wrongly.
(See the attached for reference please)

Where did I mess up now?
When my bike gets fully hot then turned off the engine heat goes into the tank and forms a vacuum as the tank cools. Perhaps thatís why it wonít start? Takes a lot more time for mine thoí Still, try opening the fuel door to see if it makes a difference.
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Old January 26th, 2022, 10:36 AM   #127
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well, first off idling the bike for 10 minutes it is going to over heat it.... don't do that ! limmit the time to 4~5 min. tops so you don't over heat the engine
....
not taking throttle has got to be plugged jets ... if it is idling good then it's not the pilot jet... it's mainly the main jet now as it won't take any throttle
they either have to be plugged or something is stopping gas from getting to them....
the pilot jets sit above the main jets a little bit so it's not float level because it idles fine and continues to idle fine... so we can eliminate the float aspect .
so we know the main jet is sitting in gas like it should be but it is not getting through that jet for some reason.... either the jet needles are not moving when the throttle is opened or the jet and emulsifier tubes are plugged.
the only other possibility I can think of is a massive air leak one that allows a idle to happen but not opening the throttle... unlikely but I have seen that happen before !
I remember leaving the vacuum tube covers off the intake manifold one time on the XS650 it started fine but would not take throttle at all ... started checking and found both plugs for those tubes on the work bench !
I put them on and then the bike revved like it should....



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Old January 26th, 2022, 11:52 AM   #128
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well, first off idling the bike for 10 minutes it is going to over heat it.... don't do that ! limmit the time to 4~5 min. tops so you don't over heat the engine
....
not taking throttle has got to be plugged jets ... if it is idling good then it's not the pilot jet... it's mainly the main jet now as it won't take any throttle
they either have to be plugged or something is stopping gas from getting to them....
the pilot jets sit above the main jets a little bit so it's not float level because it idles fine and continues to idle fine... so we can eliminate the float aspect .
so we know the main jet is sitting in gas like it should be but it is not getting through that jet for some reason.... either the jet needles are not moving when the throttle is opened or the jet and emulsifier tubes are plugged.
the only other possibility I can think of is a massive air leak one that allows a idle to happen but not opening the throttle... unlikely but I have seen that happen before !
I remember leaving the vacuum tube covers off the intake manifold one time on the XS650 it started fine but would not take throttle at all ... started checking and found both plugs for those tubes on the work bench !
I put them on and then the bike revved like it should....



....
Bob....
Did you forget that have electric fans not I would recommend this with an air engine
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Old January 26th, 2022, 12:00 PM   #129
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no i did not Anthony !
even with the electric fan on it will still over heat ! HONNEST
let your bike idle and see how long it will idle before it starts pushing out fluid from the over flow ! that's not that long
the bike needs air going through the radiator to keep it cool setting still and even with the fan on it will over heat as the fan only covers about half the radiator !
...and that is assuming the fan even works on his bike which I doubt !
.....
Bob......
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Old January 26th, 2022, 12:10 PM   #130
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no i did not Anthony !
even with the electric fan on it will still over heat ! HONNEST
let your bike idle and see how long it will idle before it starts pushing out fluid from the over flow ! that's not that long
the bike needs air going through the radiator to keep it cool setting still and even with the fan on it will over heat as the fan only covers about half the radiator !
...and that is assuming the fan even works on his bike which I doubt !
.....
Bob......
I done many time on both Car and Motorcycle even ATV and UTV and I general don't let run just long enough to ensure the fan temp switch is working and holding.
But I start seeing overflow with air bubble then I know there something wrong

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Old January 26th, 2022, 01:36 PM   #131
Bob KellyIII
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Ok granted a car is different they have bigger radiators ! and a larger cooling capacity... a motorcycle has the absolute bare minimum of cooling capacity
when you get air bubbles in the line that means your boiling the coolant !
you know that already.... that means your overheating that engine !
and that is something you do not want to do !
I bought a Subaru with a EA82 turbo charged engine that the gal drove home without coolant in it.... it split both heads ! the damage wasn't just isolated to just the heads... but I didn't know that at the time... so I said no problem I'll just replace them, but at $586.00 each I decided to weld the cracks myself ! ... that didn't work and once I did get it running the oil pressure was really low so I scrapped it, it cost more to repair it than it was worth !
( it was cheap so I bought it on the chance I could fix it)
that gal swore up and down she only drove it 5 miles without coolant in it
and that was about 3 minutes on that road.... but she cooked it real good !
aluminum engines do not like to be over heated !
....
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Old January 26th, 2022, 03:00 PM   #132
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My 250 will idle in the driveway all day without overheating. The fan cycles on and off as needed. I tried it once in warm weather just to know if it could do it without a problem and it did.
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Old January 26th, 2022, 03:42 PM   #133
Bob KellyIII
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Ok .... that is good to know ! I was wrong !
.... but I wouldn't do that ! LOL
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Old January 26th, 2022, 04:05 PM   #134
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Fan-circuit is also connected full-time to battery. So if thermoswitch triggers fan ON, it will stay on until temps drop. Even if you pull key and walk away.
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