June 8th, 2010, 10:38 PM | #321 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents Last futzed with by nattygirl; June 8th, 2010 at 10:44 PM. Reason: duplicate post |
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June 8th, 2010, 10:44 PM | #322 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
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So my HID kit finally came in. DDM Tuning is cheap, but takes an extremely long time to ship them out. I got the 35w car kit with slim ballasts. Took over a month for me to receive them, but they're worth it if you have the patience. I started my install today. I haven't finished it yet, but here's what I have so far and what I did to install it. I removed both my side and front fairing for this install.
Here's the stock photo of the kits directly from the ddmtuning.com site. Here's a pic of the bulbs themselves. They do have an adapter attached to it, so you do not need to create spacers or buy anything additional. In order to fit the adapter in the headlight, I did have to cut and shave down the corners in order for it to fit in the hole. Very easy to do though. This is where I mounted my ballasts. Its the two flat bars that are located right below the dash panel. I used both two sided tape and zip ties to secure the ballast to the frame. Here's another angle. I particularly like the ddm slim ballasts because they are solid black and more discreet looking and do not have any labels stuck to them. Top view: This is where I secured the little square box that is attached to the ballast. I used both two sided tape and zip ties to secure it. that's it for now... to be continued.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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June 8th, 2010, 10:48 PM | #323 |
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While the dash is loose do the diode fix on the turn ind. lamp so you can switch to LED's!
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June 8th, 2010, 10:56 PM | #324 |
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Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
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i'll be doing that mod tomorrow. I received the diode kit about a week and a half ago, but was waiting for the hids to come in so I could do them all at the same time. I'm going to be putting in some proton flushmounts as well tomorrow. I also replaced my dash lights with white leds. Makes the blues stand out more.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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June 9th, 2010, 03:44 AM | #325 |
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Natalie,
Excellent DIY! I like where you mounted the ballasts, also. Did you have to modify the rubber, shown in the following picture?: If not, could you post a pic with it in place? Thanks! |
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June 9th, 2010, 10:38 AM | #326 |
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I haven't worked on that part yet. I still need to fish out the red and black wires that have the blade connectors on them. I'll post more pictures tonight when I finish working on it.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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July 31st, 2010, 02:01 AM | #327 |
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Name: Chris
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Just ordered some DDM's tonight, can't wait to throw them in. I am glad there is so much information in this thread
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August 12th, 2010, 08:24 AM | #328 |
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Name: lux
Location: NY
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August 17th, 2010, 10:57 AM | #329 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
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Sorry, I forgot to come back and finish my write-up. It's been a while, since I finished this mod, but basically, I tried to do it the way OP did, but I ended up tearing one of the black seals that goes around the wires while trying to fish it through. I ended up just taking off both of them and leaving the stock rubber housing the way it came, without cutting anything. I figure, I'm never going to ride my bike in the rain, so water will never be an issue. Plus there's already a pretty good seal there cause the back of the light bulb was pretty flush with the stock housing. Hopefully, it will never be an issue for me.
I'm hopefully going to be dropping my bike pretty soon, so I'll try to remember to take pics of it when I have the bike taken apart.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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August 17th, 2010, 12:07 PM | #330 | |
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Quote:
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August 17th, 2010, 01:59 PM | #331 |
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August 18th, 2010, 07:33 PM | #332 |
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would the relay harness that DDM sells prevent the fuse problems that some people are having, and is there really any point to doing the high beam as well? downside is DDM seems to want almost as much for a single light kit as they do for a double so I figure i'd buy the double kit and either keep one as a spare, sell it off, or put it in for highs if I decide later on that i want both
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August 19th, 2010, 04:20 AM | #333 |
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I'm not familiar with the DDM setup, so I can't give you any info. Since the low and high beam are both the same type bulbs, why not purchase a kit similiar to what this DIY is based upon? It's cheap enough so that if you need to replace it later, you can do so without breaking the bank! Mine is still going strong after 4800 miles.
I'm not having the fuse problems, but I have the 35W bulbs, so right off, I'm saving 40W total with both low/high on. I'm able to start up with both lights on and no problem. The ONLY reason I would ever consider NOT installing both bulbs, would be if I wanted to install a high beam modulator. The HID bulbs aren't made for use with a modulator! The only reason for this upgrade is for improved lighting, so why wouldn't you install both HID bulbs? |
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August 19th, 2010, 05:16 AM | #334 | |
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Location: Hamilton
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Quote:
Is there any particular reason why I dont see this on any of the DIY's out there for the 250? I'm doing my install this weekend or early next week and I'm going to look into adding in a relay. I will let you know how it goes. |
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August 19th, 2010, 06:14 AM | #335 | |
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Quote:
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August 19th, 2010, 06:49 AM | #336 |
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I flick mine all the time with no ill effect. My high and low are the same output, so neither dwarfs the other.
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August 19th, 2010, 07:23 AM | #337 |
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August 21st, 2010, 12:37 PM | #338 |
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Update "sample kit" ebay listing
In checking my original link and replacement link, it looks like they are both dead, so here is a new one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-C...Q5fAccessories Buy it now for $5.00 with a $31.99 S&H charge! WOW, the price has really dropped. |
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August 21st, 2010, 03:53 PM | #339 | |
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Name: lux
Location: NY
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First I'd like to say Thank you! for the DIYs on fairing removal and HIDs. I have some issues though.
Quote:
I tried the same for the left side, but it seems there's less space because of the nut. So I mounted it with the wires facing down, but the fork hits the ballast when in full lock. I tried moving forward and back along the bar, with the DDM logo facing out and in. Doesn't seem to be working. Anyone have any pictures of the left side? Or is there something obvious I'm doing wrong? Is there a preferred brand of double-sided tape? The tape that came with the kit melted within the first ten minutes, and the ballast slipped off. The kit came with 4 short zip ties so I'm using those, what seems like telephone wire, and the melted tape, for now. I thought I had zip ties, but didn't. hehe Anyone use double-sided Velcro? Thank you for any assistance. |
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August 21st, 2010, 09:22 PM | #340 |
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Name: Kevin
Location: MN Metro
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I'll post this again:
http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/v...view=slideshow |
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August 22nd, 2010, 10:50 AM | #341 |
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This picture from the service manual details where I mounted the ballasts (blue arrows). By putting them here, you do not interfere with the steering and they are hidden from view.
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August 23rd, 2010, 08:29 AM | #342 | |
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Name: lux
Location: NY
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Quote:
Thank you! The DDM kit doesn't come with brackets but I'm going to try that location. |
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September 1st, 2010, 04:39 AM | #343 |
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Name: Dave
Location: DFW, US
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Just some notes for myself.
- Stock halogen bulbs are both H7. - (ddmtuning.com ) draws less than 6 amps at start up and 3.4 amps at normal operating temperature. This system provides 3200-3400 Lumens at 35 watts and an amazing 5000 Lumens at 55 watts per bulb. In comparison, a typical halogen bulb produces 900-1200 lumens. What is the difference between 55w and 35w kits? Our 55w HID kits are 40% brighter than the standard 35w kits. The 55W system ballasts are about 1 cm longer than the 35W ballasts. 55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). Our 55w HID Kit is not recommended for smaller fog light housings because they tend to concentrate a large amount of heat in a small area. -What are the Factory specs for adjusting the headlights? HIGH BEAM: ON high beam, the brightest points should be slightly below horizintal with the motorcycle on its wheels and the rider seated. Adjust the healight to the proper angle according to local regulations LOW BEAM: For US model, the proper angle is 0.4 degrees below horizontal. This is 50 mm (2 in.) drop at 7.6 m (25 ft) measured from the center of the headlight with the motorcycle on its wheels and the rider seated. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...&postcount=134 |
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September 1st, 2010, 10:04 AM | #344 |
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Name: Natalie
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Sorry Lux, I know it's a little late. My left ballast is mounted exactly the same as the right one. Wiring is pointed down. My forks do not hit my ballast at all, even in lock position. Did you get the slim ballast or the regular ones? The regular are a lot bigger. Did you end up installing it the way g21 said?
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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September 1st, 2010, 10:34 AM | #345 | |
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Name: lux
Location: NY
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Quote:
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September 2nd, 2010, 05:42 AM | #346 | |
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Quote:
You're welcome. You can always put a tie-wrap around the ballast (for a bracket) and then thread another tie-wrap to that tie-wrap. It is tight on the left side, but with the front fairing (headlight) off, it is alot easier. Good luck! |
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September 2nd, 2010, 08:46 AM | #347 |
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alright guys, I'm really torn here on what to get.
from what I gather the guys that have the 35w kits aren't having fuse or flickering issues, but I wonder if i'm going thru the trouble of doing this should I go with the 55w kit and a relay harness? I like the price of the 35w kit better, and am wondering if it's really worth the extra cash to go 55w, since the 35w should be a vast improvement over stock. this has been driving me crazy for weeks. i'd hate to be disappointed with the light output of the 35w kit and end up having to buy the 55w ballasts and harness and have to tear everything apart again.... |
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September 2nd, 2010, 08:56 AM | #348 |
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Do you want to power any heated clothing? I use a 77 watt jacket liner and 22 watt glove liners in the winter. The 35 watt bulbs save you 40 watts right away! I still have a 10 amp fuse and can start with both bulbs, but I try not to do so. I also wouldn't go above the 4300k version, as that attracts too much attention.
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September 2nd, 2010, 09:08 AM | #349 | |
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Quote:
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September 2nd, 2010, 03:55 PM | #350 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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September 2nd, 2010, 06:19 PM | #351 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
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nah. local city cops might hassle you about them if they are pulling you over for something else, but they generally leave you alone unless you're driving like an idiot. a buddy of mine used to have a set of 8000k in his sunfire (no projectors, just halogen reflectors) and they were friggin bright. never once got a ticket for them in 3 or 4 years. hell, I used to have a underbody neon kit on my car and never got pulled over for it, and it was really bright. my car used to look like a UFO going down the highway lol
I was planning to go with 5000k bulbs on a 55w kit or 4300k on a 35w kit. |
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September 25th, 2010, 09:24 AM | #352 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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So I installed HID in my bike (that was just one big PITA). But I couldn't make a spacer out of the spacer that the bulbs had and I also didn't have the patience to go buy some big washers and shave the crap out of them (and it was really late). So you know that rubber thing that the wires go through? well I tightened that thing all the way to the bulb then crushed it under the wire that secures the bulb. Seems to work fine that way so do you think there is anything I should worry about in doing that? It seems pretty watertight. Here are pics too (they kinda suck though)...Thanks for the help
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09 ninja 2fiddy SE Driving slow things fast |
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September 26th, 2010, 02:55 PM | #353 |
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Pics are too blurry for these old eyes!
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September 26th, 2010, 06:38 PM | #354 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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My phone sucks... well how about these a little bit fixed. And pointing to where those rubber parts are clamped with the headlights. Where the green arrow points is where I pulled the wires out and then pushed the headlights stock rubber housing tight on it (I didn't cut it). The red arrows point to where the wire clamps for the bulb are hitting the rubber piece the bulbs come with. Seems pretty stable just want to know some opinions on whether its relatively watertight and will last a long while like this. Seems like it would
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September 27th, 2010, 04:36 AM | #355 |
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You might consider putting some rubber epoxy around the wires/rubber fitting. YMMV Not a lot of water gets in there, anyway.
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September 27th, 2010, 08:14 PM | #356 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
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Coo thanks! I decided I would just test it out and spray water at it while I was washing the bike (not a lot though) and it came out fine. And you are right that not a lot of water gets up there in any case.
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09 ninja 2fiddy SE Driving slow things fast |
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November 7th, 2010, 01:23 PM | #357 |
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Name: Natalie
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Finally got to taking the front end of my bike off. Here's some pics of the back of my headlights. When I initially installed them, I ended up tearing the seal on the left side (shown in pic) so it doesn't have it, but the right does. I just tucked in the seal piece into the back and it stays in place pretty good.
As for the left side that got cut off, the back of the hid does sit pretty flush with the rubber piece that comes on the headlight. I don't see any water making its way into there. You could probably get away with cutting off the rubber pieces on the hid wiring altogether.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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December 25th, 2010, 02:27 PM | #358 |
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Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
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Just got done installing the ddm kit on cindy's bike. Total install time at about an hour and a half. On a side note i've installed the ddm kit on my Buell.
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December 25th, 2010, 10:00 PM | #359 |
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i got a ddm kit for xmas, so next nice day i get i'll have to head out to the garage
I still want to do the projector retro, i'm just having trouble finding a spare headlight housing cheap that i can tear apart. |
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December 28th, 2010, 06:13 AM | #360 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dave
Location: DFW, US
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Found this HID Bi-Xenon thread for the '06 Ninja 650R. The headlight looks similar to the '08+ Ninja 250R.
"Newest Mod....a few pics (projector headlamps w/CCFL rings)" http://www.riderforums.com/showthread.php?t=53770 |
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