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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:14 AM   #1
1hardryder4life
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I need tips to remove stock bar ends

Kind of embarassing really cuz it seems simple but I am trying to remove my stock bar ends to install the shogun sliders and am having one hell of a time. I do have a large enough phillips head, ive got a screw driver with several different phillips head attachments so I found a couple that fit perfectly but that thing is really in there good, it wont freaking budge! Ive also tried just putting the phillips head attachement in there and using a wrench to get more leverage when turning it. The phillips head snapped into pieces. Any tips or ideas you can lend me? Thanks!
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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:18 AM   #2
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Check out Kelly's DIY http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...38&postcount=2
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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:18 AM   #3
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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:25 AM   #4
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are you using the tools that are provided with the bikes tool kit? those ones should fit perfect, and for some leverage on tight screws/bolts etc you may have to jimmy rig and extend the handle of whatever your using for more torque...
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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:32 AM   #5
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I wouldn't use what they give us with th bike...crappy tools. A couple people have talked about this in other threads...you can find this by using the search function in the forum...or you could just use kkims diy on the link provided above . Next time try searching though using the search function...works wonders
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Old April 9th, 2009, 07:41 AM   #6
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I wouldn't even think about replacing the bar ends unless you have an impact hammer. Unless you really like being frustrated and PO'ed, that is.
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Old April 9th, 2009, 08:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXTrek View Post
Damn!...a torch and impact hammer to remove bar ends? I dont have that ish. Is a lighter ok to use instead of a torch? hahaha...perhaps a hair dryer will work too.

Freaking red locktite, blasted red loctite!!!

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I wouldn't even think about replacing the bar ends unless you have an impact hammer. Unless you really like being frustrated and PO'ed, that is.
Im already there man, frustrated and PO'ed is exactly what it is with them things!
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Old April 9th, 2009, 08:36 AM   #8
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Go to home depot, lowes, or sears and buy a mapp gas outfit $30-50. It gets much hotter than propane and can be used for lots of fun stuff!
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Old April 9th, 2009, 02:31 PM   #9
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I tried just using the impact hammer... those screws wouldn't budge. Spend $15 for the torch and it will make your life much easier.
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Old April 9th, 2009, 02:42 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info guys, and especially that thread and pics of you doing it yourself. I shall tackle this tonight!
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Old April 9th, 2009, 02:52 PM   #11
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more than welcome. I've heard other use a soldering iron to heat up the screw... you could try that if you don't want to buy a torch.

if you use a torch, use the smallest flame you can adjust to to heat it nice and evenly. Heat it up, whack it with the impact driver, then heat it up, then whack it again with the impact driver... repeat until the screw starts moving and loosens up. also, use a #3 Phillips bit in the driver.
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Old April 9th, 2009, 03:00 PM   #12
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After I ended up stripping the screws, I took the trusty sawz-all to the barends...
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Old April 9th, 2009, 03:03 PM   #13
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another one of the endless uses for a sawz-all, brilliant!
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Old April 10th, 2009, 08:06 AM   #14
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enclosing the bar end in a bag of really hot water for a little while will gum up the loctite too. It only looks stupid.
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Old April 10th, 2009, 09:00 AM   #15
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Red Loctite (271) has an operating temp of -65 degrees F to 450 degrees F and is anaerobic. In order for air to get into the threads and allow the bolt/screw to be removed, the bolt/screw needs to be heated to roughly 600 degrees F. Normal tools, i.e. non-impact variety should be able to remove the bolt/screw at that time. If the temp is not reached, the impact type tool can usually assist in the removal. The problem is the adhesion is literally stronger than the JIS screw slot, plus the phillips screwdrivers are NOT designed to fit the screwhead perfectly. As a result the screw slot ends up being buggered or destroyed or even the bolt/screw breaks off.

Loctite 271 is designed to be permanent.
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Old April 10th, 2009, 10:30 AM   #16
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Impact driver...... thats all ya need
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Old April 10th, 2009, 10:38 AM   #17
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I think I will probably just go to the gym, buy a 3 year membership paid in full, start a workout routine of 5 days per week, adjust my diet to match my goals, drive to mexico, purchase some animal steroids, keister them into my body cavity, smuggle them back across the border into the US, shoot up several cycles throughout the 3 year plan, gain 80lbs of muscle, then come back to the bar ends and crush them between my pinky and thumb fingers, stop using steroids and working out, lose all my muscle, lose all my friends in a rage of depression, go insane, end it all.
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Old April 10th, 2009, 01:15 PM   #18
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I should have said plus an impact driver in my post cause this is how I got mine off.
It didnt work with just the impact hammer alone.
on one side I cracked the loctite with a pipe wrench it was only enough to spin the bar end then I hung a thick plastic bag filled with real hot water. then used an impact hammer to free it up. the other side I skipped the pipe wrench.

using a torch would've been easier.

While its purpose is to be permanent it obviously is not.
Temp range is -65 - 300 http://www.loctiteproducts.com/repai...=5&Product=154

thats to say actual loctite was even used. Could be a generic threadlocker.
I really don't think Red was necessary!!!
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Old April 10th, 2009, 01:37 PM   #19
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Yep, the specs I referenced were for a generic-like 271, which was rated to 450. I have encountered 271 with firearms and used the torch method as it was recommended to me by Teddy Jacobs, a world renowned pistol smith.
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Old April 13th, 2009, 09:23 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hardryder4life View Post
I think I will probably just go to the gym, buy a 3 year membership paid in full, start a workout routine of 5 days per week, adjust my diet to match my goals, drive to mexico, purchase some animal steroids, keister them into my body cavity, smuggle them back across the border into the US, shoot up several cycles throughout the 3 year plan, gain 80lbs of muscle, then come back to the bar ends and crush them between my pinky and thumb fingers, stop using steroids and working out, lose all my muscle, lose all my friends in a rage of depression, go insane, end it all.
Well I didnt have to go thru with this plan after all, which is good.

I just grabbed a big drill bit and went to town drilling the head off the stud. The friction of drilling into metal got it hot enough so that I didnt think I needed to heat it with a torch at all. Once the head popped off, I slid the stock bar end off, then just vice gripped the stud out. Very easy to do!Success!
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