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Old August 5th, 2012, 01:14 PM   #1
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How to Use a Torque Wrench

I have found this article about how to properly use your torque wrench:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/torque_wrench.htm
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Old August 5th, 2012, 02:07 PM   #2
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Old August 5th, 2012, 07:37 PM   #3
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Old September 11th, 2012, 08:52 AM   #4
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What would be a good all around(size, lbs-ft) torque wrench for maintenance on the ninjette?
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Old September 11th, 2012, 09:31 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by nycsteve View Post
What would be a good all around(size, lbs-ft) torque wrench for maintenance on the ninjette?
I've found that having three is just about right.

1/4" drive , 20-200 in-lb
3/8" drive, 5-80 ft-lb
1/2" druve, 20-150 ft-lb

1/4" drive is sufficent for all internal motor work and adequate for oil changes. If I was only to get one this would be it. Also the small fasteners are the ones most susceptable to failure due to over torque.

3/8" drive is used for motor mount bolts

1/2" drive is used for axle nuts.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 10:22 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by nycsteve View Post
What would be a good all around(size, lbs-ft) torque wrench for maintenance on the ninjette?
You can see the range of torque values that you will need here:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Fastene...Specifications

1 ft-lb = 12 in-lb
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Old September 11th, 2012, 10:28 AM   #7
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I had so much trouble with my Harbor Freight Torque Wrench when I was replacing the clutch plates. If you don't mind making a few trips there until you get a good one, then it should work fine(they were cheap, like $20). From what I heard, Craftsmen doesn't warranty their torque wrenches because they're "measurement tools"

Food for thought.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 10:41 AM   #8
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there is a 35 year old 3 foot long, inch drive torque wrench in my garage. its used on excavators i'm told... can you tell me how to use it?
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Old September 11th, 2012, 10:57 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by kingkang204 View Post
I had so much trouble with my Harbor Freight Torque Wrench when I was replacing the clutch plates. If you don't mind making a few trips there until you get a good one, then it should work fine(they were cheap, like $20). From what I heard, Craftsmen doesn't warranty their torque wrenches because they're "measurement tools"

Food for thought.
I was going to pick up one or 2 from craftsmen because of the warranty. Maybe I'll rethink that. Although the stuff at home depot and lowes are cheaper, I know the replacement for them is normally a hell of a lot easier. Most employee's just don't care and replace whatever tools you bring that are store brand.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 10:59 AM   #10
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I was going to pick up one or 2 from craftsmen because of the warranty. Maybe I'll rethink that. Although the stuff at home depot and lowes are cheaper, I know the replacement for them is normally a hell of a lot easier. Most employee's just don't care and replace whatever tools you bring that are store brand.
Check & make sure about the warranty, because thats just what I heard. Returns at Harbor Freight were painless, almost like they were expecting them to break
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Old September 11th, 2012, 11:11 AM   #11
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harbor freight is like the cyclegear of tools. everybody buys what they need, uses it, then returns it for a full refund.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 11:35 AM   #12
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I personally have a harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench. I don't trust it under 30ft, in all honesty I don't trust it to exact numbers above that either. It's nice for lugs on the car that's about it. I still am going to purchase a 3/8" dial style torque wrench for precision. I've never left the spring tensioned on my harbor freight not dropped it but if it's something that I need to be exact(say piston rods or main bolts) I just borrow my buddies craftsmen.
I usually just put most of my bolts on my car in a tradition German fashion, güd-en-tight.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 11:38 AM   #13
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I got a gearwrench one that cost me $200 and thinking of picking up another one for around the same price, I use my tools almost everyday so i like the finer things.... Still can't afford the Snap-On Torque wrenches, but I can afford their really nice ratchets =) Pretty much the key to torquing is, to do it in steps, and to do a smooth and steady swing, no tugging or pulling. And biggest no no is dropping your wrench or using it as a breaker bar
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Old September 11th, 2012, 01:29 PM   #14
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Still can't afford the Snap-On Torque wrenches, but I can afford their really nice ratchets =)
The Snap-On's are made by CDI

You can find them for much cheaper than Snap-Ons
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Old September 11th, 2012, 04:53 PM   #15
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I personally have a harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench. I don't trust it under 30ft, in all honesty I don't trust it to exact numbers above that either.........
You could verify it:

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench
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Old September 11th, 2012, 05:04 PM   #16
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The Snap-On's are made by CDI

You can find them for much cheaper than Snap-Ons
thing is, its a pain to get serviced... i like to calibrate my stuff every year and dont like to deal with the companies, with my Gearwrench torque wrench, I hand it to my MAC dealer and he takes care of it. Same if I had a Snap-On torue wrench, I'd hand it to my dealer for him to take care of, Thing is, Gearwrench is owned by Danaher, the same company that makes crap for craftsman, but at the same time the same company that owns MATCO, and as far as i know the gearwrench and Matco torque wrenches are almost exactly the same
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Old May 17th, 2014, 07:00 AM   #17
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How important is to keep those nuts and bolts properly torqued down?

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/junkertestvideo.htm

A Junker test is a mechanical test to determine the point at which a bolted joint loses its preload when subjected to shear loading caused by transverse vibration:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junker_test

On-line converter:

http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...conversion.htm

Axial force calculator:

http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
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Last futzed with by Motofool; May 17th, 2014 at 08:46 AM.
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Old May 17th, 2014, 04:45 PM   #18
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I turn wrenches for a living. Once bought a Craftsman torque wrench, click type, did not like the "feel" Both of my torque wrenches are Matco 1/4" and 3/8". Use them a lot. Have NEVER had a failure of rods or heads because of torque failure.
Had a Snap-On before, but could not get it repaired because of age. The lock for the adjuster had failed. (There were others using it as well-DON'T LOAN TOOLS!)
Buy quality, LEARN how to use it! It will serve you well!
Have no problem with H/F stuff. Have a bunch of it at home. However, when you need technical tools, BUY QUALITY!
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Old May 17th, 2014, 05:40 PM   #19
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I bought one of these about 30 years ago. Exact same product as available today. Has never failed me.

Craftsman Digitork.

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Old May 19th, 2014, 09:17 AM   #20
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Just to add/pose a question...

I bought this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

Which has a range of 20-200 in-lbs thinking 20 in-lbs is waaay less than I'd ever use, then of course last night as I'm ready to torque my head bolts and I discover the spec is 18 in-lbs! I mean last time I put a head on, it was 44 ft-lbs then an additional 1/4 turn (12-valve vw VR6).

Since I didn't want to put off the work to a later date, I went ahead and set it to 18 by putting it at 20 and backing it out to line up with the 8. Torquing the bolts went fine and the wrench acted like I expected (this is the first time it's been out of the case), but I didn't put the cams on just in case I needed to go back and do something different.

I'm thinking about verifying the accuracy at 18 in-lbs, since it's such a small amount of weight I'd use a fish balance (like this: http://www.digitalscalesaz.com/Jenni...FRJnOgodwVgApw) attached to a 1/4" combination wrench attached to the drive. If it's pretty close I'll leave things alone, if not I'll play with the setting until I find one that calibrates to 18 in-lbs. The scale measures to a tenth of an ounce IIRC, so even using a 6-inch (haven't measured) lever arm the resolution will be on the order of a 20th of an in-lb.

Any thoughts from the gurus? Or is this overkill, like if Kawi figures a +/- 10% error in torque values?
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Old May 19th, 2014, 02:18 PM   #21
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I have a clicker and love it, i need to get another one with a lower poundage threshold.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 05:06 PM   #22
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Torquing Fasteners 101

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Old August 24th, 2016, 01:20 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by flynjay View Post
I've found that having three is just about right.

1/4" drive , 20-200 in-lb
3/8" drive, 5-80 ft-lb
1/2" druve, 20-150 ft-lb

1/4" drive is sufficent for all internal motor work and adequate for oil changes. If I was only to get one this would be it. Also the small fasteners are the ones most susceptable to failure due to over torque.

3/8" drive is used for motor mount bolts

1/2" drive is used for axle nuts.

Yup

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Old August 24th, 2016, 06:16 PM   #24
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I had to fix my HF special after stretching a bolt from it not clicking.
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Old August 24th, 2016, 07:48 PM   #25
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
I had to fix my HF special after stretching a bolt from it not clicking.
What the reason for the lack of clicking was and how did you fix it?
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Old August 24th, 2016, 08:59 PM   #26
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Looks like he had a screwdriver stuck in it
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Old August 24th, 2016, 10:50 PM   #27
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What the reason for the lack of clicking was and how did you fix it?
I had backed off on the adjuster too far and the clicker barrel rotated the opposite way locking the pivot from clicking. The barrel has ball bearings. After I cleaned it and lubed it up, the clicks are loud and solid without mistake.

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Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo View Post
Looks like he had a screwdriver stuck in it
Haha, the screwdriver is pointing to a pin that keeps the adjuster barrel from backing out fully. On other rebranded ones, there's a screw or a set screw thst removable so you can r n r it. I had to use brute force to remove mine.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 06:16 AM   #28
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 04:08 PM   #29
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Real newbie question here. I changed my oil filter and motorcycle oil in preparation for winter. I set the torque wrench to 14.5 ft/lb and tightened the drain plug and filter bolt until I heard the click.

Just want to make sure here, you're still able to continue tightening using the torque wrench but should not as the "click" tells you that the bolt is tightened to the torque that was set on the wrench? It was my first time using the torque wrench and although I heard the audible click it wasn't too loud. Now I'm just a bit worried if I used it correctly or not!
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 04:23 PM   #30
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Real newbie question here. I changed my oil filter and motorcycle oil in preparation for winter. I set the torque wrench to 14.5 ft/lb and tightened the drain plug and filter bolt until I heard the click.

Just want to make sure here, you're still able to continue tightening using the torque wrench but should not as the "click" tells you that the bolt is tightened to the torque that was set on the wrench? It was my first time using the torque wrench and although I heard the audible click it wasn't too loud. Now I'm just a bit worried if I used it correctly or not!
Stop when you hear or feel the click.
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 04:54 PM   #31
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Yes, very important to recognize that at low torque settings, you won't hear anything. You'll feel the wrench yield and hit the stop. The "click" you hear at higher torques is just that same phenomenon happening with enough force to be audible.

Just for grins, set the wrench to low torque and go test it on some bolts to experience what that silent "yield" feeling like in a safe setting.

Don't forget to reset the wrench to its minimum before storing it, or it'll go out of calibration over time.
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 06:42 PM   #32
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Yes, very important to recognize that at low torque settings, you won't hear anything. You'll feel the wrench yield and hit the stop. The "click" you hear at higher torques is just that same phenomenon happening with enough force to be audible.

Just for grins, set the wrench to low torque and go test it on some bolts to experience what that silent "yield" feeling like in a safe setting.

Don't forget to reset the wrench to its minimum before storing it, or it'll go out of calibration over time.
That's a great idea. Thank you for the suggestion!
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