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Old May 16th, 2018, 08:53 AM   #1
agnt_kruger
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chinese rearsets

don't buy them, the sato knockoffs anyways. They don't fit. The brake cylinder does not line up with the rearset. I am pissed. I want to buy another pair tho when I get a refund. These arashi ones look pretty sweet and they look like they will fit now that I know what I am looking for.
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Old May 16th, 2018, 08:56 AM   #2
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the ones I want to get next
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Old May 16th, 2018, 09:13 AM   #3
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Can you post picture of full rearset with nothing around it? thx
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Old May 16th, 2018, 09:34 AM   #4
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the color also fades in about a years time too.
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Old May 16th, 2018, 09:46 AM   #5
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thanks for the help guys, I will take some pictures of just the rearsets when I get home tonight and post them up later or tomorrow. I appreciate the replies.
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Old May 16th, 2018, 01:06 PM   #6
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have you contacted the peeps you bought it from?
show them the pics
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Old May 16th, 2018, 03:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611 View Post
have you contacted the peeps you bought it from?
show them the pics

I did, trying to get a refund. They sent me "install pics" which was just a picture of original Sato rearsets already installed on a different bike, ridiculous...
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Old May 16th, 2018, 03:06 PM   #8
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You need to spin the master around IIRC.

After getting the poops with trying to fit mine I gave up, until I looked at it better, my brain went click and they ended up fitting.

The anodizing does fade, but meh.

Don't forget to get the blue lock tight for the fixtures, if not bits WILL come lose.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 12:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLR View Post
You need to spin the master around IIRC.

After getting the poops with trying to fit mine I gave up, until I looked at it better, my brain went click and they ended up fitting.

The anodizing does fade, but meh.

Don't forget to get the blue lock tight for the fixtures, if not bits WILL come lose.
Wow, I never thought of spinning it around. Thanks SO MUCH!!!!!
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Old May 17th, 2018, 12:33 PM   #10
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Here are the pictures btw
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Old May 17th, 2018, 12:54 PM   #11
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Genuine Sato requires flipping master-cylinder as well.

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Old May 17th, 2018, 01:02 PM   #12
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this makes so much sense
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Old June 25th, 2018, 08:25 AM   #13
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I went ahead and bought these from eBay without doing my research. Lo and behold after 9 hours of trying to align the brake side right rearset, it obviously doesnt line up. Stumbled on this thread and got so happy knowing all I have to do is flip the MC. But then I spend 4 hours trying to loosen the nut that's on top of the MC but it's so tight that ir wouldnt budge. What do I do??

TLDR: Nut on top of the MC doesn't want to budge, too tight. Any recommendations?
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Old June 25th, 2018, 09:30 AM   #14
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MOTM - Nov '17
Put old rear-set back on.
Bolt MC to it
Loosen banjo bolt on top.
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Old June 25th, 2018, 03:47 PM   #15
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It's stripped now...arghh...
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Old June 25th, 2018, 05:01 PM   #16
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What tool did you use? Beaver teeth?
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Old June 25th, 2018, 05:45 PM   #17
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I used a wrench and it kept slipping since it's so tight. But at this point i might actually need an animal with sharp teeth and strong jaws. Ive messaged my mechanic now...giving up doing this on my own...feel like ...
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Old June 25th, 2018, 07:01 PM   #18
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What kind of wrench? Post picture?
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Old June 25th, 2018, 07:56 PM   #19
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Tried with this. It opened the other bolts no problem.
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Old June 25th, 2018, 08:19 PM   #20
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MOTM - Nov '17
Other bolts are fine, but you want 100% success rate. A single failure can set you back a LONG time and even introduce life-threatening errors into system. Two things caused stripping that bolt (which could've been prevented).

1. every single nut and bolt on this bike is metric. Toss all non-metric tools away

2. use closed-end wrench so it doesn't spread open and slip



Even better, use 6-sided sockets with longer ratchet wrench for leverage. Less chance of slipping that way because you don't need as much force.





If you plan on doing more work on bike, get and use better tools for job. You'll also want torque-wrench

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Old June 26th, 2018, 08:16 PM   #21
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Thanks. I actually used a closed wrench first and a torque which is the reason it slipped. Regardless. I got the bolt off and did a mock up. Now my problem is that the brake pedal is hitting the side fairing. Either my fairing is out much or the brake pedal is too inside. Did anyone else run into this issue?
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Old June 27th, 2018, 02:05 AM   #22
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It shouldn't move that far. Have you bled all air out of system? Can also adjust push-rod to lengthen it and raise pedal slightly.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 03:28 PM   #23
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So I just got this same set basically. I am grateful I saw about turning the MC around but I can't get the shifter to connect. The rod it comes with won't work because the old swivel joint is maybe riveted on? And it's a female end so I can't attach it to the new rod. I tried with some all thread rod but it's reverse thread so I can't even do that. I'm not sure what to do for my shifter now. Everything else is fine but I need to be able to shift
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Old July 26th, 2018, 03:53 PM   #24
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MOTM - Nov '17
Remove riveted ball joint. Replace with one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352063383949

These come dry. Gently pry up rubber boot and smear some light moly grease into joint. Re-seat rubber boot.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 04:02 PM   #25
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Could I just remove the riveted one and put a bolt through this guy? That way I don't have to wait two weeks for a part and be without a bike
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Old July 26th, 2018, 04:03 PM   #26
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Didn't realize the image was gonna be that big sorry
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Old July 26th, 2018, 04:40 PM   #27
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Sure that'll work.

Make sure both ends have same amount of threads engaged.
If you have to adjust length, change both ends equally.
Set so both pivot-arms are about 90-degrees to rod.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 05:22 PM   #28
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From what I'm thinking they're gonna be close to the end each. But I know from another post I saw to make it close to 90 at each pivot.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 05:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syph0r View Post
Didn't realize the image was gonna be that big sorry
Try using [RESIZE][/RESIZE] around the image link
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Old July 26th, 2018, 08:55 PM   #30
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You should still get replacement ball joints. Those you have should only be used temporarily. Without seals, they probably won't last more than couple months.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 09:01 PM   #31
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Yeah I didn't figure on them being permanent. But they'll work for a little while until I get new better parts in. Just need to be able to ride. Truck uses way too much gas lol. I was able to get the old stock rivet drilled out but ran out of daylight to finish so I'll finish up tomorrow.

Oh and the shift linkage is on the outside of the arm it seems like it might hit the pedal.. could I swap it to the inside?
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Old July 26th, 2018, 09:09 PM   #32
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Sure, inside might make for straighter aim.

Yeah, i've been using my 250 for commuting more and more to SF. Have actually gone an entire week on one tank!
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Old July 26th, 2018, 09:32 PM   #33
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Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking too. It is angled as it sits right now. And straight would be better.

Yeah I'm loving the mpg... The truck does ok at 18 but...man do I love 50mpg
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Old July 27th, 2018, 04:08 PM   #34
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So I have the linkage set up. Tried to get at close to 90 at trying pivot points and it doesn't want to shift. With adjusting I can either get it to shift down or shift up but not both. I also haven't tried with it on and running or moving. Just rolling with it off. The shifter also seems lower than before at an almost uncomfortable angle for my foot. :/ Not sure what to do now
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Old July 27th, 2018, 04:33 PM   #35
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As it sits like this. I can shift down to first and back up to nuetral but not any up past that. And now I can't find a spot to make it able to shift into second
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Old July 27th, 2018, 04:55 PM   #36
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Well I feel dumb. Rode it around the parking lot of apartments and shifts just fine once moving. A little fine tuning and it'll be perfect. Thank you for the help
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Old July 28th, 2018, 12:37 AM   #37
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Yeah, it's way gearbox is designed to make finding neutral easier. Real pain unless engine's running.
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