4000 miles servicing.

seldom · August 18th, 2011, 07:48 AM

My ninjette is soon to be needing a 4000 miles service. I am doing the servicing myself. I'll be doing the usual oil/filter change and clean/adjust chain.

Do i need to check the valve clearance and is it easy to check this. I have very little mechanical experience but I wouldn't mind doing this myself if there is a picturiol diy instructions.

I changed my front brake pads last week and today I found there was a leak on in the master cylinder. Why is this leaking? Should I change the bleed the brake? If there's a instruction on how to do this that'd be great. Would I have to change the fluid since I don't know what the dealer used incase I need to top up the master cylinder.

Ichiro · August 18th, 2011, 08:13 AM

Here is a sticky on the 2008+ Maintenance Schedule

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10577

Cuongism · August 18th, 2011, 06:33 PM

Technically speaking according to the service manual, only a brake inspection is called for in the 4k service. The major maintenance service is at 7500 miles which does involve the valve check. The valve check is time consuming and takes a few hours (more likely all day if you've never done it before).

Picture tutorial
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9787

Can you see your brake fluid in the window on your master cylinder? It is a very light amber color so may be hard to see. A brake fluid change is scheduled at 2years/15k miles unless it is truly leaking.

Also, were your brake pads worn down? 4k miles seem very short unless you're constantly hard on the front brakes.

seldom · August 22nd, 2011, 08:36 PM

I have the ninja for 1 yr now and front brake pads were worn to 1mm service limit and only done 5,900km/ 3,687miles is it normal wear for OEM pads? I changed the pads a few weeks ago and I noticed a drop of brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder between the lid and the reservoir and starting striping away the paint on the master cylinder.

No one mentioned the need to bleed the brake line if the new pads are installed in the DIYs and youtube videos.
I ended up draining the old fluid fron the front master cylinder and putting in brand new fluid Volveline Dot 4 brake fluid for auto mobiles and is it ok to use it in the bike?

What's the best way to clean the brake dust off the calippers. I forgot to clean it but it looked pretty clean and it wasn't entirly covered in brake dust.

Since the pads were changed I starting hearing the brake rubbing noise from the front brakes when the mc is going rolling speed. It also made a high pitch noise for a several miles during the bed-in. The old pads were making high pitch sound before they reached the service limit. Is this normal?
I bleed the brake line until all the bubbles are gone and I I tilt the handle bar to the left so master cylinder is level and top up the fluid until the max line.

I'm using Ferodo organic pads since it was recommended to me by the motorcycle shop and they advicved me not to use HH pads since it'll wear the disc faster. Would this comprimise the braking performance and safety by using Freddo organic pads for the front?

Cuongism · August 22nd, 2011, 08:49 PM

As long as it's Dot 4, you're ok. Less than 4k miles on the front pads do seem short to me (currently at 6k miles and still have plenty of meat left).

You don't have to bleed the brakes when just swapping pads since you're not introducing any air into the system. When you write that you drained the fluid from the master cylinder, did you mean you drained the entire system? You definitely need to bleed the brakes when flushing out the old fluid.

Hearing a high pitched noise isn't normal so it can be that the pads were dirty when installed. To clean your calipers, it's pretty easy to just remove the caliper and spray it with brake cleaner. The important part to clean are the sides of the pistons.

I haven't heard of the brand Freddo here in the states, but sintered fronts are what's recommended in the front, not organic. Organic will wear faster and is weaker than sintered. The 250 only has one front brake as well so more stopping power is a plus that sintered offers.

seldom · August 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM

Opps I confued the brand with the Freddo chocolates. Editted the post.

I thought the pads worned pretty quick as well. Maybe I might be just braking too hard with the front. The rear OEM pads looks like they still have 90% meat left on them so I guess I was just using front pads most of the time.

The high pitch sound I was referring was when the pads have no more meat and it's just rubbing metal against the disk. THe sound is pretty quiet and usually the engine noise would cover it but I have acute hearing so I can hear it intermittently. The sound started on the old OEM pads about 3000miles and they had plenty of meat left. The sound apears to be gone now since the new Ferodo pads had been bedded-in. Sometimes it makes the quiet squeek noise when coming to the stop. Is that normal?

I read on the service manual the sound could be caused by glased brake pads but the old OEM pads seems fine.
I'll take some pics of the old pads and disc and post it up and see what could be causing the intermittent noise at coming to the stop.

I did noticed afew groves on the old pads and one seems to be 1/4 mm deep. Am I suppose to prep the disc when I change the new pads?

August 18th, 2011, 07:48 AM	#1
seldom ninjette.org member Name: Nick Location: Perth, Australia Join Date: Dec 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 37	4000 miles servicing. My ninjette is soon to be needing a 4000 miles service. I am doing the servicing myself. I'll be doing the usual oil/filter change and clean/adjust chain. Do i need to check the valve clearance and is it easy to check this. I have very little mechanical experience but I wouldn't mind doing this myself if there is a picturiol diy instructions. I changed my front brake pads last week and today I found there was a leak on in the master cylinder. Why is this leaking? Should I change the bleed the brake? If there's a instruction on how to do this that'd be great. Would I have to change the fluid since I don't know what the dealer used incase I need to top up the master cylinder.

August 22nd, 2011, 08:36 PM	#4
seldom ninjette.org member Name: Nick Location: Perth, Australia Join Date: Dec 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 37	I have the ninja for 1 yr now and front brake pads were worn to 1mm service limit and only done 5,900km/ 3,687miles is it normal wear for OEM pads? I changed the pads a few weeks ago and I noticed a drop of brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder between the lid and the reservoir and starting striping away the paint on the master cylinder. No one mentioned the need to bleed the brake line if the new pads are installed in the DIYs and youtube videos. I ended up draining the old fluid fron the front master cylinder and putting in brand new fluid Volveline Dot 4 brake fluid for auto mobiles and is it ok to use it in the bike? What's the best way to clean the brake dust off the calippers. I forgot to clean it but it looked pretty clean and it wasn't entirly covered in brake dust. Since the pads were changed I starting hearing the brake rubbing noise from the front brakes when the mc is going rolling speed. It also made a high pitch noise for a several miles during the bed-in. The old pads were making high pitch sound before they reached the service limit. Is this normal? I bleed the brake line until all the bubbles are gone and I I tilt the handle bar to the left so master cylinder is level and top up the fluid until the max line. I'm using Ferodo organic pads since it was recommended to me by the motorcycle shop and they advicved me not to use HH pads since it'll wear the disc faster. Would this comprimise the braking performance and safety by using Freddo organic pads for the front? Last futzed with by seldom; August 22nd, 2011 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Changed spelling

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August 18th, 2011, 08:13 AM	#2
Ichiro ninjette.org member Name: Ichiro Location: So.Cal. Long Beach. Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r(sold). 2013 Kymco Super8 150 Posts: 223	Here is a sticky on the 2008+ Maintenance Schedule http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10577

August 18th, 2011, 06:33 PM	#3
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	Technically speaking according to the service manual, only a brake inspection is called for in the 4k service. The major maintenance service is at 7500 miles which does involve the valve check. The valve check is time consuming and takes a few hours (more likely all day if you've never done it before). Picture tutorial http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9787 Can you see your brake fluid in the window on your master cylinder? It is a very light amber color so may be hard to see. A brake fluid change is scheduled at 2years/15k miles unless it is truly leaking. Also, were your brake pads worn down? 4k miles seem very short unless you're constantly hard on the front brakes.

August 22nd, 2011, 08:49 PM	#5
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	As long as it's Dot 4, you're ok. Less than 4k miles on the front pads do seem short to me (currently at 6k miles and still have plenty of meat left). You don't have to bleed the brakes when just swapping pads since you're not introducing any air into the system. When you write that you drained the fluid from the master cylinder, did you mean you drained the entire system? You definitely need to bleed the brakes when flushing out the old fluid. Hearing a high pitched noise isn't normal so it can be that the pads were dirty when installed. To clean your calipers, it's pretty easy to just remove the caliper and spray it with brake cleaner. The important part to clean are the sides of the pistons. I haven't heard of the brand Freddo here in the states, but sintered fronts are what's recommended in the front, not organic. Organic will wear faster and is weaker than sintered. The 250 only has one front brake as well so more stopping power is a plus that sintered offers.

August 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM	#6
seldom ninjette.org member Name: Nick Location: Perth, Australia Join Date: Dec 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 37	Opps I confued the brand with the Freddo chocolates. Editted the post. I thought the pads worned pretty quick as well. Maybe I might be just braking too hard with the front. The rear OEM pads looks like they still have 90% meat left on them so I guess I was just using front pads most of the time. The high pitch sound I was referring was when the pads have no more meat and it's just rubbing metal against the disk. THe sound is pretty quiet and usually the engine noise would cover it but I have acute hearing so I can hear it intermittently. The sound started on the old OEM pads about 3000miles and they had plenty of meat left. The sound apears to be gone now since the new Ferodo pads had been bedded-in. Sometimes it makes the quiet squeek noise when coming to the stop. Is that normal? I read on the service manual the sound could be caused by glased brake pads but the old OEM pads seems fine. I'll take some pics of the old pads and disc and post it up and see what could be causing the intermittent noise at coming to the stop. I did noticed afew groves on the old pads and one seems to be 1/4 mm deep. Am I suppose to prep the disc when I change the new pads?