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Old December 2nd, 2013, 09:01 AM   #41
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The rear shock is in...
After drilling out top and bottom mounting holes to 12mm everything lined up and went in fine. There seems to be good suspension movement, no binding up etc., but I plan on doing a bit more testing with spacers.

First impression is that there is not enough static sag (using GSXR stock settings across the board).
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 11:47 AM   #42
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the engine and frame are a good 75 lbs lighter. you'll want to switch springs
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 12:23 PM   #43
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the engine and frame are a good 75 lbs lighter. you'll want to switch springs
GSXR spring rate is the same as stock Ninja, at least on paper. Fork is still stock, but will get professional re-valve at some point this winter.
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 12:28 PM   #44
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spring rate doesn't translate directly when you replace the reducer knuckle. i forget but i think the 05 gsxr is a 0.4 where as the ninja is 0.6. the triangle "knuckle" piece that the dogbones and shock mount to actually introduces a small sine-wave (because it rotates) into the compression graph to provide a more "progressive" shock compression. depending on how much the knuckle moves it can be almost nothing but it is there. the knuckle also acts as a reduction lever since the dogbones are mounted further out than the shock itself (or vice versa in many cases). the distances between the gsxr knuckle and the 250 knuckle are different.
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 12:31 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
spring rate doesn't translate directly when you replace the reducer knuckle. i forget but i think the 05 gsxr is a 0.4 where as the ninja is 0.6. the triangle "knuckle" piece that the dogbones and shock mount to actually introduces a small sine-wave (because it rotates) into the compression graph to provide a more "progressive" shock compression. depending on how much the knuckle moves it can be almost nothing but it is there. the knuckle also acts as a reduction lever since the dogbones are mounted further out than the shock itself (or vice versa in many cases). the distances between the gsxr knuckle and the 250 knuckle are different.
Right, I mean the raw spring rate, linkage aside.
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Old December 5th, 2013, 11:57 AM   #46
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The rear shock is in...
After drilling out top and bottom mounting holes to 12mm everything lined up and went in fine. There seems to be good suspension movement, no binding up etc., but I plan on doing a bit more testing with spacers.

First impression is that there is not enough static sag (using GSXR stock settings across the board).
Random question:

Did you drill out the upper shock spacer / bearing to 12mm? Or drill out the GSXR upper shock hole to 12mm and then press in the Ninjette OEM spacer / bearing?

Curious because I will be doing the same soon and the language people use to convey what they did is always minimal. Haha
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Old December 5th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tough Noogies View Post
Random question:

Did you drill out the upper shock spacer / bearing to 12mm? Or drill out the GSXR upper shock hole to 12mm and then press in the Ninjette OEM spacer / bearing?

Curious because I will be doing the same soon and the language people use to convey what they did is always minimal. Haha
I drilled the gsxr fitting to 12mm. Didn't have to press it out or anything.
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Old December 5th, 2013, 09:08 PM   #48
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talking about the rear shock.. what year make and model does gsxr have that fits the ninjas
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Old December 6th, 2013, 10:34 AM   #49
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talking about the rear shock.. what year make and model does gsxr have that fits the ninjas
Have a look through here the below thread link and the Ninja FAQ. Lots of suggestions on applicable years, etc. Hope that helps!

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59486
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Old December 6th, 2013, 10:50 AM   #50
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Have a look through here the below thread link and the Ninja FAQ. Lots of suggestions on applicable years, etc. Hope that helps!

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59486
thanks very helpful
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Old December 24th, 2013, 10:13 PM   #51
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Made some progress!

Custom fairing stay mostly finished up, just need to add Vapor dash mount.

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Old December 27th, 2013, 02:16 PM   #52
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With dash mounted



At this angle dash is hard to see, I will re-mount it leaned back more and do the final pretty welds. It's all spot welded for now.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 04:56 PM   #53
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Final product!

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Old December 29th, 2013, 12:18 PM   #54
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Eyes are in. Pinch bracket holds everything on 2 bolts, so easily removed for track and re-installed for street.




I wish I had a better welder... still lighter than stock fairing stay it would be better if made from aluminum, but my MIG can't handle it.
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Old December 31st, 2013, 09:31 AM   #55
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Looks good.

Much lighter than stock for sure.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 10:49 PM   #56
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Other than front turn signals electrical work is done. Bike can convert from street to track in a few minutes.



I'm still evaluating crash protection options, Shogun sliders kit seems like the best option, but price is rather high. Any suggestions?
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Old January 6th, 2014, 07:47 AM   #57
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I'm still evaluating crash protection options, Shogun sliders kit seems like the best option, but price is rather high. Any suggestions?

In my experience- the little ninja's frame is too narrow for frame sliders to not inflict more damage than a crash.

They act as lever arms when the bike goes down and can twist the frame or break the engine mount.


I actually took the sliders off my bike when I converted it to track use.


Just my
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Old January 6th, 2014, 08:41 AM   #58
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In my experience- the little ninja's frame is too narrow for frame sliders to not inflict more damage than a crash.

They act as lever arms when the bike goes down and can twist the frame or break the engine mount.


I actually took the sliders off my bike when I converted it to track use.


Just my

This is not the first time I hear this. I've seen some slider setups where they do not protrude from the bodywork, essentially race glass becomes disposable. With something like Shogun kit it would involve cutting down sliders to fit.
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Old January 18th, 2014, 10:51 AM   #59
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Made a bit more progress. Pretty much gave up on eBay seller to send me the right linkage and made my own connector. Really just a threaded m6 rod with LH twist on one end and RH on the other, had to use a lathe to make it all work.

Now the bike is a runner but it will not rev well and dies at WOT, could need some fresh gas and I know for sure it is very lean, especially in cold weather. Carbs are next on the to do list.
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Old January 28th, 2014, 08:33 PM   #60
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Contacting the Chinese rearset manufacturer to get the right parts has failed. They told me several times that replacement parts were shipped, but nothing ever showed up. Ended up turning a bolt to but RL and LH thread on it to make it work.




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Old February 6th, 2014, 05:38 PM   #61
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In my last post I had a picture of a custom bolt I made to connect shift linkage. Today parts from China came as promised, it just took them a really long time to get here. They did send me 2 sets, so my spare kit is also covered.

That said the bike is not longer in my garage, it went to Dave Alexander of Fluid Suspension Science for you may have guessed - suspension work. He will also be ordering a few other bits like clipons, brake pads, and in general checking my work.
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Old February 10th, 2014, 02:17 PM   #62
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Hopefully you haven't cut the subframe on your bike yet. Just a heads up on that. Supersport/Superstock rules prohibits cutting or modifying the subframe. You'll get protested if someone wants to be a dick about it.
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Old February 10th, 2014, 04:12 PM   #63
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Hopefully you haven't cut the subframe on your bike yet. Just a heads up on that. Supersport/Superstock rules prohibits cutting or modifying the subframe. You'll get protested if someone wants to be a dick about it.
Nope, was not planning on doing anything.
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Old April 10th, 2014, 08:53 AM   #64
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Got the carb off, but ran into a few questions around routing and what can be blocked off.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=841372

I will be at the Ridge this weekend with 2-fast.org, 1st time out this year (and really in 3 years at a big track)
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Old April 11th, 2014, 03:09 PM   #65
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Ready to go, just in time.

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Old April 15th, 2014, 04:08 PM   #66
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Ready to go, just in time.

Got any more pics of your clipon setup? Looks like yours are fairly low and had to cut your fairings to accomodate.
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Old April 15th, 2014, 04:36 PM   #67
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Got any more pics of your clipon setup? Looks like yours are fairly low and had to cut your fairings to accomodate.

Clipons are Vortex, and they sit below the upper triple, with controls rotated at a pretty steep angle down. I basically set it up the way I like and then cut fairings to make everything work. Had to add some material to steering stops, so turn radius isn't as tight.

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Old April 16th, 2014, 06:26 PM   #68
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Clipons are Vortex, and they sit below the upper triple, with controls rotated at a pretty steep angle down. I basically set it up the way I like and then cut fairings to make everything work. Had to add some material to steering stops, so turn radius isn't as tight.

Thanks, I currently have the woodcrafts clipons. I'm gonna slide them down the forks and see how it goes.
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Old April 30th, 2014, 07:47 AM   #69
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Started on paint, or rather plastidip. Kawasaki should be green, but I didn't want to buy another tank or repaint this one - so plastidip. We will see how durable it is, worst case - easy to remove.

Here is a preview
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Old April 30th, 2014, 11:13 AM   #70
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Love the color.

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Old May 2nd, 2014, 09:51 AM   #71
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definitely let us know how the dip holds up
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Old May 3rd, 2014, 01:47 PM   #72
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The color does look fantastic!

I'm curious: how much extra weight do you think the plastidip added? In my head, it seems like it would be a lot, but I don't actually have any experience using it on something that large.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 07:52 AM   #73
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The color does look fantastic!

I'm curious: how much extra weight do you think the plastidip added? In my head, it seems like it would be a lot, but I don't actually have any experience using it on something that large.
I don't think it adds more than normal automotive paint... If anything should be easy to remove, but I hope it will hold up OK.
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Old December 4th, 2015, 05:49 AM   #74
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There is a lower lip on either side that has the ability to be bolted to the stock undertail. Hense another reason to keep the undertail.


The two indents on the top of the tail are for race subframes only.
What is this race subframe that you've been speaking off? Who makes it, and does anyone have any pictures?
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Old December 4th, 2015, 09:50 AM   #75
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What is this race subframe that you've been speaking off? Who makes it, and does anyone have any pictures?
I haven't actually seen any for sale- I have seen some custom made ones though.
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Old December 5th, 2015, 07:09 AM   #76
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Made some progress!

Custom fairing stay mostly finished up, just need to add Vapor dash mount.

if you want to get rid of you key, i know a guy that makes a harness that re-routes the ignition to be turned on and off with the kill switch.
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Old December 7th, 2015, 11:25 PM   #77
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if you want to get rid of you key, i know a guy that makes a harness that re-routes the ignition to be turned on and off with the kill switch.
Who would that be? I am interested in doing that on my track bike.
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Old December 8th, 2015, 01:38 AM   #78
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Who would that be? I am interested in doing that on my track bike.
https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bi...4#General-Info
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Old December 8th, 2015, 04:34 AM   #79
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Who would that be? I am interested in doing that on my track bike.
https://www.facebook.com/arek.stanton?fref=ts
he'll make them for $20.
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Old December 8th, 2015, 07:26 AM   #80
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^^ plug and play for $20? I would be in for one for sure. Glad to see Woodcraft is making one, but not sure I want to spend $60 on it.
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