Just bought used 2004 Ninja

Snowieflake · July 23rd, 2014, 07:26 PM

I am a brand new rider and just bought a used 2004 Ninja with about 6800 miles on it. The guy I bought it from was the third owner. As far as I know, he changed the oil then let it sit for 6 months before I bought it because his wife wouldn't let him ride. The battery was pretty much dead because it hadn't been ridden. He did not have any service records for the bike. The gas tank is clean and has no rust. The bike idles anywhere from 1k to 2.5k rpm.

My question is, what should I do to the bike maintenance-wise? I already bought and installed a new battery and my friend helped me clean and lube the chain. My next step was going to be an oil change.

Also, side question: when I'm in neutral, and I have the clutch engaged (clutch lever all the way out), I hear a sort of soft clunking noise that seems to go away when the clutch is disengaged. I took it to a nearby dealer's service facility and the service guy said that the clutch plates were just knocking together. Is this right?

Thanks so much for all of your help! I really appreciate any help I can get!

salcuta88 · July 23rd, 2014, 07:43 PM

Change the oil right away. Brake pads good?

Snowieflake · July 23rd, 2014, 07:45 PM

I took it to a nearby dealer and got a 100-point inspection done. The results seemed to be that everything was fine but the brake pads were getting a little low. I guess I'll need to replace those soon too...

jkv45 · July 23rd, 2014, 08:01 PM

#1 thing I would check is the age of the tires.

The manufacture date is 4 numbers in an oval on the sidewall - like "2809". The first 2 are the week (28th week) the second are the year (2009).

If they are older than 4 or 5 years, no matter how much tread they have, it's a good idea to replace them. Rubber loses flexibility over time, and traction will be reduced.

Snowieflake · July 23rd, 2014, 08:25 PM

The front tire say 2913, so they're just about a year old, but I think it looks a little bit dry.

Uh-oh.... I think the rear tire says 3206!

salcuta88 · July 23rd, 2014, 08:36 PM

About brake pads...check out my post. Save some money.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=190203

xorbe · July 23rd, 2014, 10:40 PM

Bike idles up to 2.5k? Check valve clearances ...

Milsparro · July 23rd, 2014, 11:10 PM

If it has the stock Dunlops on it, they may be almost done. This bike gets so much better with good tires, too.

M42 · July 24th, 2014, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xorbe

Bike idles up to 2.5k? Check valve clearances ...

Or throw a full can of seafoam into a full tank of gas and do an italian tuneup. My valves are fine but my idle wanders because I've yet to clean the carbs for real

Welcome to the fray, Lauren! Good to see another lady on a two fiddy!

capt_bugaloo · July 24th, 2014, 07:37 AM

Seafoam will clean the engine, but it won't do anything for valve clearance.

I would think a 100-point inspection would include checking the valves to see if they need adjustment, but perhaps not.

M42 · July 24th, 2014, 07:55 AM

Oh yeah, didn't mean to imply the seafoam would fix the valves.

Although that would be really nice

Snowieflake · July 26th, 2014, 07:00 PM

Unfortunately, the 100 point inspection did not include checking the valves.

I just bought all the stuff to change my oil and will attempt to do so either tonight or tomorrow.

Can someone explain to me how to seafoam/clean my carbs? I've been looking on youtube, but just seemed to be getting confused....

M42 · July 26th, 2014, 07:41 PM

Well, seafoam is sort of a fuel system spot cleaner, if you will. You add it to your tank of gas, it runs through the system and opens things up a little bit. Use it when the bike's been sitting like two weeks and won't start (and it's not the battery). It's not really a replacement for a good carb cleaning, but it'll work in a pinch. Can't hurt to buy a can. Add the whole thing to a full tank and go for a ride.

For cleaning carbs, refer to the wiki article for the procedure. Actually, check out the whole wiki if you haven't yet. It's got answers to pretty much all the questions, including illustrated writeups for maintenance of all kinds. When I bought my ninja, I had barely any mechanical knowledge - thanks to the wiki, I've been able to do almost all maintenance on my own. Except tires, cause where the hell am I gonna store a balancer in my apartment

Snowieflake · July 27th, 2014, 07:26 PM

So, update: I just finished changing my oil for the first time!! Yay! I drained the oil, replaced the filter, replaced the gasket on the filter housing (although the gasket that came with the filter seemed to be a little bit too big??) and screwed everything back in. Then I put in 2 quarts of oil and started her up!

The oil seemed to be a little bit cloudy, so I took her for a little ride. I think it's mostly clear now. No leaks so far *crosses fingers*

There was a second, small gasket that came with the filter. Anyone know where this was supposed to go?

I guess my next steps will be to try a bit of seafoam, but she seemed to be idling just around 1-1.5k today.

M42 · July 27th, 2014, 07:45 PM

Remember the cover plate for the oil filter? The one you put the big gasket on? It goes in between that and the oil filter bolt cylinder thing. If you didn't separate them, you don't have to replace it.

xorbe · July 27th, 2014, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowieflake

(although the gasket that came with the filter seemed to be a little bit too big??)

THIS!!! Is it normal?

M42 · July 27th, 2014, 08:41 PM

I've noticed the fresh ones always seem big when you squeeze them into the groove on the cover plate. But by the time you replace them, they no longer have the same looseness, so I think it's normal.

Skullz · July 28th, 2014, 03:18 AM

The oversize of the gasket is to allow for shrinkage so it doesn't crack and split open causing an oil leak, and as was said you have to pull the bolt from the plate to replace the smaller gasket.

The oil many of us seem to use is the shell rotella T6 synthetic which you can get at walmart for just over $20 for a gallon which is a bargain for synthetic oils.

Ninjinsky · July 28th, 2014, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowieflake

Also, side question: when I'm in neutral, and I have the clutch engaged (clutch lever all the way out), I hear a sort of soft clunking noise that seems to go away when the clutch is disengaged. I took it to a nearby dealer's service facility and the service guy said that the clutch plates were just knocking together. Is this right?

Yep don't worry, this really is a case of "they all do that". Once the carbs are clean and balanced it will largely stop. It's just the clutch slopping back and forth on the slightly uneven crank speed even though it sounds like a big end.
I think I read somewhere that California models have some kind of damper in the clutch case to quieten it. Anybody know more about that?

Finesse · July 29th, 2014, 07:20 PM

At 6800 miles your valves are probably fine. Mine needed adjusting at around 11,000.

Be safe and enjoy!

agentbad · July 30th, 2014, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finesse

At 6800 miles your valves are probably fine. Mine needed adjusting at around 11,000.

Be safe and enjoy!

Mine were rather tight around 7500 so I wouldn't wait too long. I ride the piss out of mine so that's probably why but I wouldn't take the chance on a used bike.

xorbe · July 30th, 2014, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agentbad

Mine were rather tight around 7500 so I wouldn't wait too long. I ride the piss out of mine so that's probably why but who take the chance on a used bike.

Mine were in dire need of adjustment at 5600, which is why I mentioned it originally up there.

July 24th, 2014, 07:37 AM	#10
capt_bugaloo motorcycle rider Name: Bruce Location: Victoria, BC Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '14 Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom (silver) Posts: A lot.	Seafoam will clean the engine, but it won't do anything for valve clearance. I would think a 100-point inspection would include checking the valves to see if they need adjustment, but perhaps not. __________________________________________________ '14 Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom (silver)

July 24th, 2014, 07:55 AM	#11
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Oh yeah, didn't mean to imply the seafoam would fix the valves. Although that would be really nice __________________________________________________

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July 23rd, 2014, 07:26 PM	#1
Snowieflake ninjette.org member Name: Lauren Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 23	Just bought used 2004 Ninja I am a brand new rider and just bought a used 2004 Ninja with about 6800 miles on it. The guy I bought it from was the third owner. As far as I know, he changed the oil then let it sit for 6 months before I bought it because his wife wouldn't let him ride. The battery was pretty much dead because it hadn't been ridden. He did not have any service records for the bike. The gas tank is clean and has no rust. The bike idles anywhere from 1k to 2.5k rpm. My question is, what should I do to the bike maintenance-wise? I already bought and installed a new battery and my friend helped me clean and lube the chain. My next step was going to be an oil change. Also, side question: when I'm in neutral, and I have the clutch engaged (clutch lever all the way out), I hear a sort of soft clunking noise that seems to go away when the clutch is disengaged. I took it to a nearby dealer's service facility and the service guy said that the clutch plates were just knocking together. Is this right? Thanks so much for all of your help! I really appreciate any help I can get!

July 23rd, 2014, 07:43 PM	#2
salcuta88 ninjette.org guru Name: Vlad Location: Weaverville, NC Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R (Sold), 2015 Rocky Mountain Soul (Runs on fat) Posts: 404	Change the oil right away. Brake pads good?

July 23rd, 2014, 07:45 PM	#3
Snowieflake ninjette.org member Name: Lauren Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 23	I took it to a nearby dealer and got a 100-point inspection done. The results seemed to be that everything was fine but the brake pads were getting a little low. I guess I'll need to replace those soon too...

July 23rd, 2014, 08:01 PM	#4
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	#1 thing I would check is the age of the tires. The manufacture date is 4 numbers in an oval on the sidewall - like "2809". The first 2 are the week (28th week) the second are the year (2009). If they are older than 4 or 5 years, no matter how much tread they have, it's a good idea to replace them. Rubber loses flexibility over time, and traction will be reduced.

July 23rd, 2014, 08:25 PM	#5
Snowieflake ninjette.org member Name: Lauren Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 23	The front tire say 2913, so they're just about a year old, but I think it looks a little bit dry. Uh-oh.... I think the rear tire says 3206!

July 23rd, 2014, 08:36 PM	#6
salcuta88 ninjette.org guru Name: Vlad Location: Weaverville, NC Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R (Sold), 2015 Rocky Mountain Soul (Runs on fat) Posts: 404	About brake pads...check out my post. Save some money. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=190203

July 23rd, 2014, 10:40 PM	#7
xorbe ninjette.org guru Name: xorbe Location: Bay Area, CA Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): N650 (and others) Posts: 408	Bike idles up to 2.5k? Check valve clearances ...

July 23rd, 2014, 11:10 PM	#8
Milsparro ninjette.org member Name: Matthew Location: Manitoba Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): '87 KLR650, '97 Virago Posts: 39	If it has the stock Dunlops on it, they may be almost done. This bike gets so much better with good tires, too.

July 26th, 2014, 07:00 PM	#12
Snowieflake ninjette.org member Name: Lauren Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 23	Unfortunately, the 100 point inspection did not include checking the valves. I just bought all the stuff to change my oil and will attempt to do so either tonight or tomorrow. Can someone explain to me how to seafoam/clean my carbs? I've been looking on youtube, but just seemed to be getting confused....

July 26th, 2014, 07:41 PM	#13
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Well, seafoam is sort of a fuel system spot cleaner, if you will. You add it to your tank of gas, it runs through the system and opens things up a little bit. Use it when the bike's been sitting like two weeks and won't start (and it's not the battery). It's not really a replacement for a good carb cleaning, but it'll work in a pinch. Can't hurt to buy a can. Add the whole thing to a full tank and go for a ride. For cleaning carbs, refer to the wiki article for the procedure. Actually, check out the whole wiki if you haven't yet. It's got answers to pretty much all the questions, including illustrated writeups for maintenance of all kinds. When I bought my ninja, I had barely any mechanical knowledge - thanks to the wiki, I've been able to do almost all maintenance on my own. Except tires, cause where the hell am I gonna store a balancer in my apartment

July 27th, 2014, 07:26 PM	#14
Snowieflake ninjette.org member Name: Lauren Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 23	So, update: I just finished changing my oil for the first time!! Yay! I drained the oil, replaced the filter, replaced the gasket on the filter housing (although the gasket that came with the filter seemed to be a little bit too big??) and screwed everything back in. Then I put in 2 quarts of oil and started her up! The oil seemed to be a little bit cloudy, so I took her for a little ride. I think it's mostly clear now. No leaks so far crosses fingers There was a second, small gasket that came with the filter. Anyone know where this was supposed to go? I guess my next steps will be to try a bit of seafoam, but she seemed to be idling just around 1-1.5k today.

July 27th, 2014, 07:45 PM	#15
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Remember the cover plate for the oil filter? The one you put the big gasket on? It goes in between that and the oil filter bolt cylinder thing. If you didn't separate them, you don't have to replace it.

July 27th, 2014, 08:41 PM	#17
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	I've noticed the fresh ones always seem big when you squeeze them into the groove on the cover plate. But by the time you replace them, they no longer have the same looseness, so I think it's normal.

July 28th, 2014, 03:18 AM	#18
Skullz ninjette.org guru Name: Ray Location: 48162 Join Date: Aug 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250 Posts: 450	The oversize of the gasket is to allow for shrinkage so it doesn't crack and split open causing an oil leak, and as was said you have to pull the bolt from the plate to replace the smaller gasket. The oil many of us seem to use is the shell rotella T6 synthetic which you can get at walmart for just over $20 for a gallon which is a bargain for synthetic oils.

July 29th, 2014, 07:20 PM	#20
Finesse ran when parked Name: Katie Location: DC/MD Join Date: Aug 2013 Motorcycle(s): Freeride 250R, KLX250SF, mopeds Posts: A lot. MOTM - Sep '17, Dec '14	At 6800 miles your valves are probably fine. Mine needed adjusting at around 11,000. Be safe and enjoy!