Valve Adjust - whoa! Idle Speed?

bungie4 · July 2nd, 2011, 01:51 PM

I picked up my 94 EX last Wed. 9400km (5000 mi) on it. I was hearing a lot ticking and tapping with it up to temp. So today I tore it down to adjust the valves. Pretty easy (except for the exhaust side closest to the timing chain). Took about 3 hrs taking my time.

Afterwards I hooked up my Morgan Carb Tune and gave the sync a pretty big tweek - they were out a lot.

Put the tank back on and took it for a quick spin around the block. WHOA! Big difference in smoothness. I can't say if it's any peppier because I'm just not that use to the bike. More importantly, the racket is now gone.

Except for forgetting to tighten up the screw clamp on the top coolant pipe (minor leak after it warmed up) it was pretty much a breeze.

Now if I could just figure out why the idle is being a b*tch. Set it for 1500. Tweak the throttle, and it hangs for a second around 3000, then slowly settles back down, but rarely goes back to 1500. Sometimes a 1000, sometimes 1500, sometimes 1800. I can't find any vacuum leaks, just the nature of the beast? (It behaved like this before the valve check as well)

-Steve

Alex · July 2nd, 2011, 01:58 PM

Idle is never perfect on these little engines until the bike is fully warmed up. But if it is and it's still bouncing around, and there are not vacuum leaks, it wouldn't hurt to see how clean (or not) the pilot jets are.

bungie4 · July 2nd, 2011, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

Idle is never perfect on these little engines until the bike is fully warmed up. But if it is and it's still bouncing around, and there are not vacuum leaks, it wouldn't hurt to see how clean (or not) the pilot jets are.

Good advice. I figure because it starts and runs okay, the previous owners at least attempted to store it properly. I'm still on my first tank of gas with it and am running about 4oz of Seafoam through it. I'll finish off the can and then re-evaluate.

Just the Seafoam (and a couple of high rpm blasts) have done the bike a world of good. Guess that tells me the carbs were a little gummy. I've read the carbs a real PIA to get in and out. Got my fingers crossed for that Seafoam goodness

kkim · July 2nd, 2011, 02:28 PM

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=65198

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 06:05 PM

hey stupid question here about the valve adjustment.

I'm doing this within the next week since I'm 700 miles over the recommended (I'm at almost 12,700 miles) time and I need to do it. I'm reading through faq.ninja250.org and the whole valve part makes sense. Straight forward, just a time consuming job.

Except for one part. It says I should get new plugs since new plugs come with new crush washers. I don't have the stock toolkit and ninja250.org says that the stock plug tool is the best thing to get out the plugs. what should I use to get them out? It seems dumb that the stock tool would be the ONLY thing that works to get them out. suggestions?

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 06:14 PM

talked to my dad and read Vex's DIY for guidance. Both said to use a spark plug socket. so now my question is what size spark plug socket should I get to pull the plugs so I can do my valve adjustment without compression? Vex says a 5/8". Is that also the right size for a pregen?

kkim · July 8th, 2011, 06:16 PM

I've used the appropriate plug socket with the correct extension and a 3/8" ratchet and changed my plugs w/o any problems on my newgen. Do you have those tools?

kkim · July 8th, 2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Vex says a 5/8". Is that also the right size for a pregen?

what plugs do the pregen use? if it's a "C" series body plug, the 5/8" socket will work.

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 06:35 PM

yeah I have the ratchet but not a specific plug socket. What size plug socket should I be looking for? is that different for each type of spark plug?

Can I just use a deep socket to unscrew the spark plug and then some hose to grab the plug and pull it out once it's loose?

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

what plugs do the pregen use? if it's a "C" series body plug, the 5/8" socket will work.

they use NGK CR8HSA plugs. so I need to get a 5/8 socket. thanks

kkim · July 8th, 2011, 06:39 PM

buy the appropriate plug socket... it will make your life easier and save you time/headaches, if not this time, one dark, cold night when you're in a rush to change plugs on this bike or another, in the future... ask me how I know.

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 06:40 PM

Kkim I'm good now thanks. 5/8" plug socket on a ratchet. thanks. crossing fingers on the valve job and taking all of sunday afternoon and as much of monday after work as I need

*Edit*

you're the man. again. so I'm listening this time (unlike with the shims when you were totally right and I was too lazy to open the carbs again and then came across really stupid....

)

*/edit*

kkim · July 8th, 2011, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Kkim I'm good now thanks. 5/8" plug socket on a ratchet. thanks. crossing fingers on the valve job and taking all of sunday afternoon and as much of monday after work as I need

...with an extension. can't remember exactly how long of an extension, though.

bungie4 · July 8th, 2011, 07:05 PM

Actually, I left my plugs in. Sure it would've been easier to turn the engine over, but it's really not that hard at all. Much less hard than hasslin' with the plugs.

That being said, my bike doesn't have the toolkit either. So I can't really answer your question. But my FJR uses CR8E's and the I have the factory tool (which is MANDATORY on the FJR) for it.

So a little update to my project Ninjette.

The bikes idle is a 2500 or 1000 proposition. So I went hunting for a vacuum leak again. Sure enough, and I don't know how I missed it, but the easiest to get to intake tube screw was loose. Snug it up and the bike ran better, but more vibration. Makes sense because I adjusted the throttle sync to offset the vacuum leak DOH!

So tonight I changed the oil (what a mess on this bike! the FJR is a 100x cleaner and easier!) and afterwards re-synced the carbs. MUCH smoother.

My idle is still 'unsettable' for 1300-1500 though. Guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and give them a good clean out.

All that being said, my last fill up was 74mpg with me running the piss out of it! This tank I'm sure it's even higher as I've been taking it easy. I'm at 365km and I'm still not reserve with it. (I need to know how far till reserve).

I've got some fresh CR8HSA's on order - which are pure unobtanium other than ordering them through the dealer. So with a little luck, I'll get to the carbs in the next week and run a fresh set of plugs into it.

Momaru · July 8th, 2011, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

...with an extension. can't remember exactly how long of an extension, though.

I'm speaking from experience on my new-gen, but I usually pair my 6" with my 3" extension (longer first after the socket so if it separates it's easier to retrieve) for a total of +9" to clear both the engine and the frame after pullin' the tank. 6" would almost certainly do to get ya above the engine head.

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 07:38 PM

honestly if its in between 1300 and 1500, you're likely ok. I mean cleaning the idle circuits with compressed air couldn't hurt anything, but like alex said, they aren't spot on with idle on these bikes. mine has never been totally 100% dead even at one rpm. It kinda goes up and down a bit. after syncing the carbs and getting the idle mix right it's a ton better, but never just perfect. and dang 74 mpg??? thats high even for a pregen. Average that with a few tanks and see how it goes. I've only gotten above 70 once and that was right when I got it and was being really really nice to it.

PS sorry for threadjacking. If my sparkplugs don't show up on time I'll do my valves without taking them out, then just replace the plugs once they show up (ok I'm really done threadjacking now)

choneofakind · July 8th, 2011, 07:43 PM

oops misread your post. if you got the vaccum leak and it's still not right, try syncing the carbs that should help get the idle at least steady. if it's still not right after that, then clean the carbs and resync. I've gotten into the habbit of re-syncing my carbs every time I open them up. only takes a minute

bungie4 · July 9th, 2011, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

oops misread your post. if you got the vaccum leak and it's still not right, try syncing the carbs that should help get the idle at least steady. if it's still not right after that, then clean the carbs and resync. I've gotten into the habbit of re-syncing my carbs every time I open them up. only takes a minute

I synced the carbs after the valve adjust. Unfortunately, that was before I found the loose clamp on the intake tube. So after I changed the oil I resynced them again. Bike is as smooth as butter now, but still either at idles at 1000 (I manually held it at 1500 for the synce) or 1800+.

I'm sure at this point one or both of the pilot circuits are in need of some attention. No big deal, I've done enough carbs and rejetting over the years to do it in my sleep. I just don't relish the new words I'm gonna have to make up getting them re-installed again - at least after hearing all the problems ppl have with them.

I'll keep you posted.

choneofakind · July 9th, 2011, 08:11 PM

honestly getting the carbs back in isn't as bad as people say as long as you loosen the tail a bit and all the bolts holding the airbox in. it only gives you about 2ish inches of movement forwards/backwards, and that helps a ton. also try sitting the boots in warm or hot water while you clean the carbs to soften them a bit

Lt Tom · July 10th, 2011, 01:56 PM

I'm all about trying the easy/free/cheap stuff first. Have you cleaned/lubed the throttle cable? A dirty or kinked cable or return spring will sometimes keep the throttle from returning all the way every time. If it is running well and getting good mileage but isn't falling back to the same idle every time, it might be worth checking.

Have Fun,
Lt Tom

bungie4 · July 10th, 2011, 04:08 PM

Did the carbs today.

Somebody has been into them in the past and did a bit a number on some of the float bowl screws. Oddly enough, the mixture caps were still on, so I drilled those out and removed them.

Carbs came out easy enough, gave them a good bath after removing the vital bits. Sure enough, one of the pilot jets was plugged solid. Before removing the mixture screws I seated them while counting turns. One was out 1 1/4, the other about 3/4 of a turn. Weird bit was that one of them actually protruded INTO the throttle bore a bit.

Put the carbs back together with the mixture screws at 2 turns out. A little bit of swearing got he carbs back in. Nothing unexpected and not near as bad as I've read. I guess ppl like taking shortcuts. Moving the airbox back a little bit gives you just enough room.

Fired the bike back up and after the float bowls were primed (about 15 seconds of cranking) the bike fired to life without a hic-cup. Once near operating temp I closed off the choke only to have the bike die. Fired it back up and gave the idle screw a couple of twists and lo-n' behold, 1400 rpm, steady as a rock.

Re-syched the carbs (for the 3rd time in 2 weeks!) and after one last check for a fuel leak, took it for a quick spin. I spent the weekend on the FJR so getting on the little Ninja after that it's hard to tell. But I'd say it feels a little flat. Maybe its just me.

I was going to shim the needles and thought against it. I'd rather have the fuel economy it's getting, then a couple extra ponies in the mid-range.

Speaking of which, I wanted to see where reserve was. I was at 364km and STILL not on reserve. By the feel of the tank, I'd say their was no more than two liters left in it. Maybe the previous owner dicked with the fuel valve?

So I filled it up and took 13.96 liters (on an 18 liter tank). Dammit! It must've just been ready for reserve! Close enough for me to know where the limit is though. Once again 74mpg (UK) or 3.7 l/100km

I expect the mileage to drop some over this next tank. I was running with a pretty severe vacuum leak and an at least one blocked idle circuit (lean!)

Next order of business to change hydralic fluid on both brakes. Garunteed its still the original fluid in it.

Gotta say it's a real treat working on this bike. I dearly miss the 'old' technology. So easy to work on compared the space shuttle that is the FJR.

choneofakind · July 10th, 2011, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bungie4

Gotta say it's a real treat working on this bike. I dearly miss the 'old' technology. So easy to work on compared the space shuttle that is the FJR.

I know what you mean. I did my first valve adjustment today (first for me, the bike got its valve adjustment at 6000 miles and after break in from the PO thank goodness) synced carbs also and wow is all I can say. notable how nice it rides with something that simple.

bungie4 · August 2nd, 2011, 07:44 AM

The bike has been running good and I've been chipping away at the maintenance that needs to get done.

I've noticed that I get a vibration, that only shows up when it gets up to normal operating temps. Pop it up on the centerstand and give the wheel a spin and it seemed to be at the same spot in wheel rotation which eliminated chain/gear box issues. The rear brake wasn't rubbing either.

After it cools down, I check again, the problem disappeared.

I suspected rear wheel bearings so I pulled the back wheel and gave them a good inspection. Butter. Not the rear wheel bearings. So I had a good look at the tire and noticed some scuffing on the chain side sidewall. Re-mounted the tire and I can see it's VERY close to the inner front mount of the chain guard. Closer inspection theirs a tab on the swingarm the chain guard is supposed to fit into. It wasn't in it. I also found that the chain guard had a loose rear mount allowing it to touch the chain.

Vibration gone. Phew, no charge fix is something to like!

Bled the front and rear brakes. YUCK! It was the original fluid since 1994. Looked like expresso! Brakes (and me) much happier now!

Filled the bike up again for 76mpg (UK gallon!). Gotta like that too.

Then this morning on the way to work, about 500ft from my place the clutch cable pops. SOB! I made it to work without having to stop until I got within about a 100ft of it. Ended up push starting the bike then hopping on.

Dealer doesn't have a clutch cable in stock natch, ordered one, should be in on Thurs.

Still happy with bike, except the seat was designed for a circus mutant or something. 90 minutes and my ass can't take it anymore (I've done Iron Butt rides.. it's not my ass!). I'm gonna have a go and making a more comfy seat like the Russell Day Long on my FJR.

Ordered a tinted Euro Sport from Mikes Windshields last week. Still haven't even got a confirmation on that. Guess I should email him..

86ninjarider · August 2nd, 2011, 06:02 PM

i have the same problem with my '86 ex250...it idles around 3000rpm and i cant figure out how to fix it.

July 2nd, 2011, 01:51 PM	#1
bungie4 IBA # 44620 Name: Steve Location: Sudbury Ontario Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 94 Ninja EX250F, 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Posts: 13	Valve Adjust - whoa! Idle Speed? I picked up my 94 EX last Wed. 9400km (5000 mi) on it. I was hearing a lot ticking and tapping with it up to temp. So today I tore it down to adjust the valves. Pretty easy (except for the exhaust side closest to the timing chain). Took about 3 hrs taking my time. Afterwards I hooked up my Morgan Carb Tune and gave the sync a pretty big tweek - they were out a lot. Put the tank back on and took it for a quick spin around the block. WHOA! Big difference in smoothness. I can't say if it's any peppier because I'm just not that use to the bike. More importantly, the racket is now gone. Except for forgetting to tighten up the screw clamp on the top coolant pipe (minor leak after it warmed up) it was pretty much a breeze. Now if I could just figure out why the idle is being a b*tch. Set it for 1500. Tweak the throttle, and it hangs for a second around 3000, then slowly settles back down, but rarely goes back to 1500. Sometimes a 1000, sometimes 1500, sometimes 1800. I can't find any vacuum leaks, just the nature of the beast? (It behaved like this before the valve check as well) -Steve

July 2nd, 2011, 01:58 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Idle is never perfect on these little engines until the bike is fully warmed up. But if it is and it's still bouncing around, and there are not vacuum leaks, it wouldn't hurt to see how clean (or not) the pilot jets are. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

August 2nd, 2011, 07:44 AM	#23
bungie4 IBA # 44620 Name: Steve Location: Sudbury Ontario Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 94 Ninja EX250F, 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Posts: 13	Little update The bike has been running good and I've been chipping away at the maintenance that needs to get done. I've noticed that I get a vibration, that only shows up when it gets up to normal operating temps. Pop it up on the centerstand and give the wheel a spin and it seemed to be at the same spot in wheel rotation which eliminated chain/gear box issues. The rear brake wasn't rubbing either. After it cools down, I check again, the problem disappeared. I suspected rear wheel bearings so I pulled the back wheel and gave them a good inspection. Butter. Not the rear wheel bearings. So I had a good look at the tire and noticed some scuffing on the chain side sidewall. Re-mounted the tire and I can see it's VERY close to the inner front mount of the chain guard. Closer inspection theirs a tab on the swingarm the chain guard is supposed to fit into. It wasn't in it. I also found that the chain guard had a loose rear mount allowing it to touch the chain. Vibration gone. Phew, no charge fix is something to like! Bled the front and rear brakes. YUCK! It was the original fluid since 1994. Looked like expresso! Brakes (and me) much happier now! Filled the bike up again for 76mpg (UK gallon!). Gotta like that too. Then this morning on the way to work, about 500ft from my place the clutch cable pops. SOB! I made it to work without having to stop until I got within about a 100ft of it. Ended up push starting the bike then hopping on. Dealer doesn't have a clutch cable in stock natch, ordered one, should be in on Thurs. Still happy with bike, except the seat was designed for a circus mutant or something. 90 minutes and my ass can't take it anymore (I've done Iron Butt rides.. it's not my ass!). I'm gonna have a go and making a more comfy seat like the Russell Day Long on my FJR. Ordered a tinted Euro Sport from Mikes Windshields last week. Still haven't even got a confirmation on that. Guess I should email him..

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July 2nd, 2011, 02:28 PM	#4
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=65198

July 8th, 2011, 06:05 PM	#5
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	hey stupid question here about the valve adjustment. I'm doing this within the next week since I'm 700 miles over the recommended (I'm at almost 12,700 miles) time and I need to do it. I'm reading through faq.ninja250.org and the whole valve part makes sense. Straight forward, just a time consuming job. Except for one part. It says I should get new plugs since new plugs come with new crush washers. I don't have the stock toolkit and ninja250.org says that the stock plug tool is the best thing to get out the plugs. what should I use to get them out? It seems dumb that the stock tool would be the ONLY thing that works to get them out. suggestions?

July 8th, 2011, 06:14 PM	#6
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	talked to my dad and read Vex's DIY for guidance. Both said to use a spark plug socket. so now my question is what size spark plug socket should I get to pull the plugs so I can do my valve adjustment without compression? Vex says a 5/8". Is that also the right size for a pregen?

July 8th, 2011, 06:16 PM	#7
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I've used the appropriate plug socket with the correct extension and a 3/8" ratchet and changed my plugs w/o any problems on my newgen. Do you have those tools?

July 8th, 2011, 06:35 PM	#9
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	yeah I have the ratchet but not a specific plug socket. What size plug socket should I be looking for? is that different for each type of spark plug? Can I just use a deep socket to unscrew the spark plug and then some hose to grab the plug and pull it out once it's loose?

July 8th, 2011, 06:39 PM	#11
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	buy the appropriate plug socket... it will make your life easier and save you time/headaches, if not this time, one dark, cold night when you're in a rush to change plugs on this bike or another, in the future... ask me how I know.

July 8th, 2011, 06:40 PM	#12
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Kkim I'm good now thanks. 5/8" plug socket on a ratchet. thanks. crossing fingers on the valve job and taking all of sunday afternoon and as much of monday after work as I need Edit you're the man. again. so I'm listening this time (unlike with the shims when you were totally right and I was too lazy to open the carbs again and then came across really stupid.... ) /edit

July 8th, 2011, 07:05 PM	#14
bungie4 IBA # 44620 Name: Steve Location: Sudbury Ontario Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 94 Ninja EX250F, 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Posts: 13	Actually, I left my plugs in. Sure it would've been easier to turn the engine over, but it's really not that hard at all. Much less hard than hasslin' with the plugs. That being said, my bike doesn't have the toolkit either. So I can't really answer your question. But my FJR uses CR8E's and the I have the factory tool (which is MANDATORY on the FJR) for it. So a little update to my project Ninjette. The bikes idle is a 2500 or 1000 proposition. So I went hunting for a vacuum leak again. Sure enough, and I don't know how I missed it, but the easiest to get to intake tube screw was loose. Snug it up and the bike ran better, but more vibration. Makes sense because I adjusted the throttle sync to offset the vacuum leak DOH! So tonight I changed the oil (what a mess on this bike! the FJR is a 100x cleaner and easier!) and afterwards re-synced the carbs. MUCH smoother. My idle is still 'unsettable' for 1300-1500 though. Guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and give them a good clean out. All that being said, my last fill up was 74mpg with me running the piss out of it! This tank I'm sure it's even higher as I've been taking it easy. I'm at 365km and I'm still not reserve with it. (I need to know how far till reserve). I've got some fresh CR8HSA's on order - which are pure unobtanium other than ordering them through the dealer. So with a little luck, I'll get to the carbs in the next week and run a fresh set of plugs into it.

July 8th, 2011, 07:38 PM	#16
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	honestly if its in between 1300 and 1500, you're likely ok. I mean cleaning the idle circuits with compressed air couldn't hurt anything, but like alex said, they aren't spot on with idle on these bikes. mine has never been totally 100% dead even at one rpm. It kinda goes up and down a bit. after syncing the carbs and getting the idle mix right it's a ton better, but never just perfect. and dang 74 mpg??? thats high even for a pregen. Average that with a few tanks and see how it goes. I've only gotten above 70 once and that was right when I got it and was being really really nice to it. PS sorry for threadjacking. If my sparkplugs don't show up on time I'll do my valves without taking them out, then just replace the plugs once they show up (ok I'm really done threadjacking now)

July 8th, 2011, 07:43 PM	#17
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	oops misread your post. if you got the vaccum leak and it's still not right, try syncing the carbs that should help get the idle at least steady. if it's still not right after that, then clean the carbs and resync. I've gotten into the habbit of re-syncing my carbs every time I open them up. only takes a minute

July 9th, 2011, 08:11 PM	#19
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	honestly getting the carbs back in isn't as bad as people say as long as you loosen the tail a bit and all the bolts holding the airbox in. it only gives you about 2ish inches of movement forwards/backwards, and that helps a ton. also try sitting the boots in warm or hot water while you clean the carbs to soften them a bit

July 10th, 2011, 01:56 PM	#20
Lt Tom ninjette.org newbie Name: Tom Location: Toccoa, Ga Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): I'm between bikes right now Posts: 8	I'm all about trying the easy/free/cheap stuff first. Have you cleaned/lubed the throttle cable? A dirty or kinked cable or return spring will sometimes keep the throttle from returning all the way every time. If it is running well and getting good mileage but isn't falling back to the same idle every time, it might be worth checking. Have Fun, Lt Tom

July 10th, 2011, 04:08 PM	#21
bungie4 IBA # 44620 Name: Steve Location: Sudbury Ontario Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 94 Ninja EX250F, 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Posts: 13	Did the carbs today. Somebody has been into them in the past and did a bit a number on some of the float bowl screws. Oddly enough, the mixture caps were still on, so I drilled those out and removed them. Carbs came out easy enough, gave them a good bath after removing the vital bits. Sure enough, one of the pilot jets was plugged solid. Before removing the mixture screws I seated them while counting turns. One was out 1 1/4, the other about 3/4 of a turn. Weird bit was that one of them actually protruded INTO the throttle bore a bit. Put the carbs back together with the mixture screws at 2 turns out. A little bit of swearing got he carbs back in. Nothing unexpected and not near as bad as I've read. I guess ppl like taking shortcuts. Moving the airbox back a little bit gives you just enough room. Fired the bike back up and after the float bowls were primed (about 15 seconds of cranking) the bike fired to life without a hic-cup. Once near operating temp I closed off the choke only to have the bike die. Fired it back up and gave the idle screw a couple of twists and lo-n' behold, 1400 rpm, steady as a rock. Re-syched the carbs (for the 3rd time in 2 weeks!) and after one last check for a fuel leak, took it for a quick spin. I spent the weekend on the FJR so getting on the little Ninja after that it's hard to tell. But I'd say it feels a little flat. Maybe its just me. I was going to shim the needles and thought against it. I'd rather have the fuel economy it's getting, then a couple extra ponies in the mid-range. Speaking of which, I wanted to see where reserve was. I was at 364km and STILL not on reserve. By the feel of the tank, I'd say their was no more than two liters left in it. Maybe the previous owner dicked with the fuel valve? So I filled it up and took 13.96 liters (on an 18 liter tank). Dammit! It must've just been ready for reserve! Close enough for me to know where the limit is though. Once again 74mpg (UK) or 3.7 l/100km I expect the mileage to drop some over this next tank. I was running with a pretty severe vacuum leak and an at least one blocked idle circuit (lean!) Next order of business to change hydralic fluid on both brakes. Garunteed its still the original fluid in it. Gotta say it's a real treat working on this bike. I dearly miss the 'old' technology. So easy to work on compared the space shuttle that is the FJR.

August 2nd, 2011, 06:02 PM	#24
86ninjarider ninjette.org member Name: Josh Location: Breinigsville PA Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 1986 kawasaki ninja ex250r Posts: 18	i have the same problem with my '86 ex250...it idles around 3000rpm and i cant figure out how to fix it.