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Old June 22nd, 2013, 10:57 AM   #1
n4mwd
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Removing the Valve Cover

Here is a video I made that shows the proper and easy way to remove the valve cover when doing the valves. It doesn't involve draining the coolant or removing the radiator.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old June 22nd, 2013, 11:51 AM   #2
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Nice vid. When is your engine rebuild series coming out?? I know someone whos motor is getting rebuilt.
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 01:29 PM   #3
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It looks like my bike just has a bad carb. I'm replacing it now with the one from the EFI bike since I'm not using it on that one. So it looks like the rebuild video wont be on mine - at least not for a while.

If you want, I can bring the camera over and videotape your rebuild. Or you can come over here and we can do it. Basically, you strip it down to the bearings and then go through everything and figure out what you need to put it back together properly. Did you buy that case you were looking at?
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 02:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
It looks like my bike just has a bad carb. I'm replacing it now with the one from the EFI bike since I'm not using it on that one. So it looks like the rebuild video wont be on mine - at least not for a while.

If you want, I can bring the camera over and videotape your rebuild. Or you can come over here and we can do it. Basically, you strip it down to the bearings and then go through everything and figure out what you need to put it back together properly. Did you buy that case you were looking at?
That would be pretty cool. I was thinking the rebuild would take longer than a day or at least one session but if you/I could do it start to finish then yeah I'd be down to record it!

Yeah I bought the crankcase I just picked it up today.
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 02:24 PM   #5
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That would be pretty cool. I was thinking the rebuild would take longer than a day or at least one session but if you/I could do it start to finish then yeah I'd be down to record it!

Yeah I bought the crankcase I just picked it up today.
It would take a minimum of two non-consecutive days. One day to strip it to the bearings and figure out what you need to buy. Then a second day, after the parts all come in, to put it back together. I could video while you work on it. It only take a few minutes to strip it once its on the stand.

BTW, did the guy give you the bolts and bearings with the new case like in the picture?

Another problem is that the engine tolerance is in microns and I don't have anything that will measure microns accurately. And Harbor Freight doesn't sell a micrometer with a big enough jaw to do the job. So we have to rely on plastigauge - which is a pain.
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 03:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
It would take a minimum of two non-consecutive days. One day to strip it to the bearings and figure out what you need to buy. Then a second day, after the parts all come in, to put it back together. I could video while you work on it. It only take a few minutes to strip it once its on the stand.

BTW, did the guy give you the bolts and bearings with the new case like in the picture?

Another problem is that the engine tolerance is in microns and I don't have anything that will measure microns accurately. And Harbor Freight doesn't sell a micrometer with a big enough jaw to do the job. So we have to rely on plastigauge - which is a pain.
I don't think every single bolt came with it nor do I see anything resembling a bearing or moving part for that matter....

Actually I don't see where you saw bearings in the picture??
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 04:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I don't think every single bolt came with it nor do I see anything resembling a bearing or moving part for that matter....

Actually I don't see where you saw bearings in the picture??
Here is what you are looking for.....

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Old June 22nd, 2013, 05:51 PM   #8
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Oh, that makes things clearer. Yes they're there.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 11:19 AM   #9
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2013-06-23 14.17.40.jpg

I'm not sure what size caliper you need to measure the bearings but I just happened to see this as I was covering my work table.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 11:28 AM   #10
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on the new gen engine, the top coolant exit line is held on by the valve cover which means removing the valve cover leaves that hose just kinda sitting there making it easy for a nudge to lead to spilled coolant on your head. what i do is leave the front engine mounts on, drain the coolant from the entrance side, pop that hose off of the exit side, then just slide the cover up to rotate the exit pipe out of the way (or pull it out) then the cover slides out the clutch-hand side of the bike. the emissions stuff can get in the way if you dont remove it.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 12:50 PM   #11
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Constructive suggestion: why not just remove the engine mounts and coils as well? That makes doing the valves easier and takes not even 5 minutes.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 01:43 PM   #12
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Constructive suggestion: why not just remove the engine mounts and coils as well? That makes doing the valves easier and takes not even 5 minutes.
because then you have to jack the engine up to get them back in which is always a pain. also those inside top bolts are annoying to get to with the wrench. also it doesn't really get in the way if the coils and emissions crap are gone (my coils are gone)

with the way my bike is right now it takes me all of 15 minutes to do a valve check. 30-45 if it includes changed shims...

i think it took me about 30 minutes to do my last valve check because me and kevin were dicking around in the garage.

like i said though, just the way i do it
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 01:49 PM   #13
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Ah, I guess I've always just taken as much stuff out of there (except the radiator, that stays) as possible so that I have a little more space.

I always remove the chin fairing as well, because I usually use a jack under the engine whenever I remove the front engine mount bolt.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 05:46 PM   #14
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Justin, the perfect caliper/micrometer for the job has to do microns or 1/1000th of a MM. Most of them will only do 1/1000th of an inch. I've seen some micrometers that will do microns, but their jaws only open to about 1 inch which is just shy. (We should probably move the rebuild discussion to PM.)

Regarding the Engine mounts on the pregen, you shouldn't have to support the engine when you remove the front mount bolt. If you do, then your rear bolts are missing/loose.

The head coolant hose on the pregen is just held in with the valve cover too, but it wont leak unless you try to pull it out. If it does, then its time to change the o-ring - which coincidentally is the same one they give you in the Fram oil filter box.

My coils have the spot welds drilled out so I always remove them when doing the valves. You could also remove the mounts themselves, but that's a pain. If you use the kawi valve tool, its pretty easy to get in there with just moving them back a little.

There is no way I could inspect the valves on the pregen in 15 minutes. It would take me that alone just to get the plastics and the tank off.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 06:20 PM   #15
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You don't have to use a jack stand, I just find it easier to use a jack when re-installing the front mount bolt. Even with the rears at spec torque.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 07:36 PM   #16
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Please don't move it to pm, as it will deny people good info.
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Old June 24th, 2013, 03:39 PM   #17
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What do you think of this micrometer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-1-2-DI...item51ab9e3491
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Old June 24th, 2013, 04:15 PM   #18
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D, the 250 frame is an engine supported diamond frame. as such, the top neck is very flexible and is made from soft steel and is really easy for it to flex upward without the engine support in. also, i'm lazy and just leave the fairings off when its on the street :P
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Old June 24th, 2013, 07:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng View Post
What do you think of this micrometer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-1-2-DI...item51ab9e3491
It looks like a nice one, but I would be concerned that it would be too fat to fit into the journals of the crankshaft. They are about the width of those bearings. Maybe 3/4". The thickness of the finger makes it unusable to measure the bearings.

I have a HF caliper that will get us in the ball park. But either way, there is really no way to get out of using the plastigauge.

Did you ever check your old engine case for the marks I showed you? Do they match the new case?
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Old June 24th, 2013, 08:25 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
It looks like a nice one, but I would be concerned that it would be too fat to fit into the journals of the crankshaft. They are about the width of those bearings. Maybe 3/4". The thickness of the finger makes it unusable to measure the bearings.

I have a HF caliper that will get us in the ball park. But either way, there is really no way to get out of using the plastigauge.

Did you ever check your old engine case for the marks I showed you? Do they match the new case?
I see the same pattern....

I have the engine torn down as far as I could go tonight with the left and right covers off + the impeller out. The impeller isn't what I would describe as spinning freely but maybe that's just how they are.
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