Ninja 250r 09 Cannot Start - Need Help (SOLVED!) - Page 2

goodbadugly · December 7th, 2010, 08:35 PM

I received my Battery tender today, here are pictures of it:

Voltage of battery before unplugging:

Here I disconnected the battery terminals. (Negative first)

Front of Ninja 250r 09 OEM battery:

Back of Ninja 250r 09 OEM battery:

Back of Battery Tender plus:

Bottom of Battery Tender Plus:

Just putting these details so if someone has the same problem this could help them.

goodbadugly · December 7th, 2010, 09:31 PM

Battery is plugged to the battery tender, and the RED light is up. Which is a good sign.

Here's a picture:

I connected MultiMeter to the battery as it charges:

Link to original page on YouTube.

g21-30 · December 8th, 2010, 05:18 AM

Bottom line, your battery was discharged!

goodbadugly · December 8th, 2010, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g21-30

Bottom line, your battery was discharged!

Yeah. So 10.7 volt not enough to startup the bike?... This morning it was on 14.87v. ( total charging time so far was 10 hrs)

g21-30 · December 8th, 2010, 07:07 AM

A discharged battery will not start the bike!

goodbadugly · December 8th, 2010, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g21-30

A discharged battery will not start the bike!

About to go to put out battery in. All fingers crossed

.... It's freakin 28 F outside.

g21-30 · December 8th, 2010, 04:46 PM

You should measure the voltage of the battery with the "tender" disconnected from it!

mrlmd · December 8th, 2010, 06:18 PM

You measure the battery's voltage maybe 1/2 hr. after you finished charging it - that gives you the true voltage without the "surface charge", and you should have that battery tested with a load tester to see if it's still any good after you've fully charged it. It may still read 12.6 V and not get a good enough oomph out of it to start the bike.
What's the rush to put the battery in at 28 degrees? You going for a ride? Let the battery sit overnight and measure the voltage again, take it to be tested, and if it's alright, then put it back into the bike and see if it starts. Otherwise, you may be doing this again.

goodbadugly · December 8th, 2010, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g21-30

You should measure the voltage of the battery with the "tender" disconnected from it!

Thanks for all your help. Solved it worked check the end of the first post.

goodbadugly · December 8th, 2010, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrlmd

You measure the battery's voltage maybe 1/2 hr. after you finished charging it - that gives you the true voltage without the "surface charge", and you should have that battery tested with a load tester to see if it's still any good after you've fully charged it. It may still read 12.6 V and not get a good enough oomph out of it to start the bike.
What's the rush to put the battery in at 28 degrees? You going for a ride? Let the battery sit overnight and measure the voltage again, take it to be tested, and if it's alright, then put it back into the bike and see if it starts. Otherwise, you may be doing this again.

To late now....already working hahaha.....Thanks for all your help marc....check the end of the first post.

Flying Pig · December 8th, 2010, 10:18 PM

Congrats on getting it working again

A couple of things to note, in no particular order.

You can leave the battery connected to the motorcycle while charging it with the tender, assuming you can reach the motorcycle with the tender plugged into an outlet. It's easier to plug it in if you screw in the o-ring pigtails on the quick disconnect that should have came with the tender - this way you don't have to remove the side fairings & seat to charge the battery. Less of a hassle means you'll probably do it more often.
10.4v is bone dry. A 12V battery is comprised of 6 2v cells. When the cell is full, it holds 2.15V. When it is empty, it holds 1.9V (not 0V ). The difference between full and empty is a measly 0.25V per cell. So 12.9V would be completely full, while 11.4V is completely discharged. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but having less than that means some cells can be damaged.
The battery tender works by bringing the voltage slowly up to something like 14.4V while in charging mode. When it deems that the battery is charged, it reduces the voltage (and amperage, if I'm not mistaken) when the battery is in full and switches over to a float mode. Your multimeter will measure around 13.2V then.
With that being said, you will want to test your battery's voltage during a neutral state. An hour off the tender should be fine. Some batteries are good at holding a "surface charge". It doesn't hurt to put a small load on the battery as would eliminate the surface charge to give you a better reading.

Probably more information than you care to know, but maybe someone will find it useful

g21-30 · December 9th, 2010, 04:54 AM

Congratulations! If you hook the battery up to the tender, now, I bet it will show it's charging again. Ask me how I know?

mrlmd · December 9th, 2010, 08:00 AM

Glad you got it running again. Remember. most problems are very simple to solve unless you start taking things apart to look for the solution and make it worse and then really hard to diagnose.
Put the pigtails on the battery that came with the charger and hook it up every few days for a few hours. or if convenient to where you live and park the bike, leave it plugged in as long as it's this cold, then you will have no further battery problems.

And watch out when it's very cold, you have to ride conservatively for a little while to let the tires warm up. Cold tires are very slippery on the pavement, they have little grip compared to warm tires so watch your turns for a while.

goodbadugly · December 9th, 2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flying Pig

Congrats on getting it working again

A couple of things to note, in no particular order....
....Probably more information than you care to know, but maybe someone will find it useful

...

Thanks....ofcourse I care....I learnd a lot, these are useful tips to maintain the bike. Yh I will use the O-ring cable that came with the battery tender.
************************************************

Quote:

Originally Posted by g21-30

Congratulations! If you hook the battery up to the tender, now, I bet it will show it's charging again. Ask me how I know?

Yeah I know it goes down right away. Not only that if its done charging and you turn off & turn back on, it will start charging again. So it takes a while for it recognize that its charged...but still I want to ask, how you know?

************************************************

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrlmd

Glad you got it running again. Remember. most problems are very simple to solve unless you start taking things apart to look for the solution and make it worse.....Cold tires are very slippery on the pavement, they have little grip compared to warm tires so watch your turns for a while....

Thanks. Well when I take things apart, i'm pretty good at put it back

. I've done radios, tv, many electronic devices, and computers I can do with eyes closed...haha... yeah I will try to start my bike every 2 days through the winter...I did recieve the o-rings cables for the battery tender. I will use those. Thanks for your help.

g21-30 · December 9th, 2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodbadugly

So it takes a while for it recognize that its charged...but still I want to ask, how you know?

Because everytime I come in from riding and reconnect the battery tender, it shows that it is charging. Usually, only takes a few minutes for the tender to switch to storage mode. Remember the alternator doesn't put out 100%, until it reaches 6K RPM!

mrlmd · December 9th, 2010, 05:07 PM

DO NOT start your bike every 2 days during the winter. The draw on the battery to start it is more than you will be replacing charging it by running it 15 min or so. If the bike never gets warmed up properly, the condensation in the exhaust system will cause all kinds of corrosion and rust. Only start it if you want to go for a ride for many miles, otherwise just hook up the battery tender every few weeks or so like I said and winterize it and leave it 'till Spring. Put Stabil in the gas tank at the proper dose, run it for 5 min to get it all through the fuel system and carbs, fill up the gas tank so there's little space for air and condensation (and moisture- water- in the fuel), change the oil and filter, fill up the tires with air, cover over the exhaust to keep critters (mice, bugs) from making a nest in there. cover it up and don't look at it 'till your ready for the warmer weather riding. There is no advantage to starting it every 2 days, you will be doing more damage than good.

goodbadugly · December 9th, 2010, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrlmd

DO NOT start your bike every 2 days during the winter. ... Put Stabil in the gas tank at the proper dose, run it for 5 min to get it all through the fuel system and carbs,..., cover over the exhaust to keep critters (mice, bugs) from making a nest in there. cover it up and don't look at it 'till your ready for the warmer weather riding. There is no advantage to starting it every 2 days, you will be doing more damage than good.

Wow I learned more within this week, then going to school for a month..haha. Thanks Doctor Marc....learning a lot here. I will take your advice and take care of my precious well

....mice nest...really?

mrlmd · December 9th, 2010, 06:32 PM

Good for you, and thanks from those of us who tried to help - that's why we're all here.

k4m1k4z3k · December 28th, 2010, 06:19 PM

OK so my turn:

Similar issue to the original post... The first time i tried to start the bike this week, I got one good crank out of the bike and then the engine choked and died. After that, I was only able to get the same buzzing/clicking noise. Then no noise at all. I took the battery to the local shop and they told me the battery was dead, and being a fool i bought a new battery from them, put it on the charger for a few hours and still all I can get is a little clicking at most. Checking both batteries, they are reading at 12.6V, the lights and horn all work fine, and I've checked all fuses. I've also tried jump starting from a car battery with no result and Ive tried push starting with only a few sputters from the engine. Any ideas?

kkim · December 28th, 2010, 06:22 PM

what happened when you jump started from the car battery?

k4m1k4z3k · December 28th, 2010, 09:58 PM

Same thing -- just buzzing/clicking (but now that may mean nothing because i took my car in for service today and it was suggested my car's battery be changed soon as well)

kkim · December 28th, 2010, 10:03 PM

I would check the starter circuit relay, the starter relay and the starter itself, it that order, for the source of your starting problems.

http://www.mickeywebpages.com/users/...e_Dia_v1.1.gif

k4m1k4z3k · December 28th, 2010, 10:27 PM

!! So...in other words... "follow the directions for starter circuit relay inspection, and starter relay inspection from the service manual". It seems obvious, but am I just running a wire/connector from the battery to the indicated side of the relay and testing the resistance on the other side?

mrlmd · December 29th, 2010, 09:36 AM

Make sure your connections to the battery and the other ends to the starter and ground and at the relay/solenoid are clean without corrosion. A bad connection can rob you of a lot of current.

You could try and bypass the relay, attach some heavy cables directly to the starter and a ground from a good battery and see if it turns over. If it does, the starter is OK; if not, the starter may be bad (unlikely in a 2 year old bike). If it turns over, the relay (solenoid) you bypassed may be bad.
But I would still bet on your battery being the problem - the clicking/buzzing is the sound the relay/solenoid and starter make when there is insufficient voltage and current to turn over the starter motor. Measure the voltage in your battery before and during and after you hit the starter button. If it drops 2 volts or so, the battery is not fully charged.
The bike should have started using the car battery. Like I said before, make sure all your connections are clean and free of corrosion.
Your charging up the new battery for "a few hours" may not have been enough to fully charge it so put it back on the charger for another few hours. If it still won't turn over the starter motor, bring it back and have it load tested, it may be no good.

k4m1k4z3k · December 29th, 2010, 11:22 AM

checked the starter relay and the starter circuit relay and they are good. The started reassembling things and the bike started by chance. I let it run for about 20minutes while i put everything back together and took it for a ride around the neighborhood and had to come back to readjust the clutch. when i did, the ignition fuse blew and after changing that, i seem to be back where i started.

i did bypass the battery straight to the starter relay and the starter engages and the engine turns over but doesn't catch and dies off as soon as i remove the connection. checked the relays again and they still appear to be good.

mrlmd · December 29th, 2010, 01:35 PM

You may also have to start tracing wires and make sure there's no short from a break in, or abrasion of, the insulation, shorting out against the frame somewhere.

k4m1k4z3k · December 29th, 2010, 05:24 PM

Maybe. I just plugged all the relays and the CDI back in to clean up for the night and once again the bike just happened to fire up with no problem. rode around for about an hour and came back and once again the i get an occasion click but nothing is making it to the starter.

I have a feeling that it could possibly be the starter lockout behind the clutch lever but i have no idea how to test or bypass the switch. Both times I've gotten it to start has been after having the relays unplugged and playing with the starter lockout...

mrlmd · December 29th, 2010, 07:04 PM

If that switch was no good there wouldn't be any clicking or buzzing - there would be no starter action at all, the same as if you don't pull in the clutch when you go to start the bike. If you hear some clicking, I would vote against that. Your bike is only 2 years old and I doubt things like that fail so soon. You are going to take apart things that are not broken, and maybe somehow manage to break them. Look elsewhere, like the wiring first. You can also try to spray some contact cleaner (or even WD40 as a start) into the switch to see if you can clean it up, and into the starter switch as well. Work them back and forth a few times, then try it again. If it works, get some contact cleaner, WD40 will initially clean it, then maybe gum it up.

goodbadugly · January 9th, 2011, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k4m1k4z3k

OK so my turn:

Similar issue to the original post... The first time i tried to start the bike this week, I got one good crank out of the bike and then the engine choked and died. After that, I was only able to get the same buzzing/clicking noise. Then no noise at all. I took the battery to the local shop and they told me the battery was dead, and being a fool i bought a new battery from them, put it on the charger for a few hours and still all I can get is a little clicking at most. Checking both batteries, they are reading at 12.6V, the lights and horn all work fine, and I've checked all fuses. I've also tried jump starting from a car battery with no result and Ive tried push starting with only a few sputters from the engine. Any ideas?

I really think you should get tender and charge it , because in my case after I charged it i ended up I think over 14 volts. Try to post a vid of it with sound it really helps other people to understand it better.

-Al

k4m1k4z3k · February 15th, 2011, 01:12 PM

Bought a tender a few weeks ago, topped off both new and old battery and didn't work. I've since worked my way around the entire bike with contact cleaner, tested the ohmmeter on all components in the ignition and starter circuit diagrams from the shop manual with the exception of the neutral switch (I dont know where or how to go about testing that when the engine isnt running) and the CDI (which can't be tested unless i can find someone else with a 250r that i can plug it into). At this point I'm no longer even getting a buzzing from the relays even with a fully charged battery.

nathan1 · August 15th, 2015, 01:43 AM

Goodbadugly dude i got the same thing that you had going on with your bike. You posted pics and vids on the problem. Exact same thing bro. Heres the thing tho. I bought a new battery and it died within 3 weeks. Choked and all etc.
I know this post is old but if anyone can help me with this please. Would appreciate it.
Cleaned carby. Pretty much did everything, spark plugs, crossed solenoid and all. Even fuel tank got cleaned but the shits cooked.
What could it be? Only reply if the same thing happened to you.

InvisiBill · August 15th, 2015, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathan1

Goodbadugly dude i got the same thing that you had going on with your bike. You posted pics and vids on the problem. Exact same thing bro. Heres the thing tho. I bought a new battery and it died within 3 weeks. Choked and all etc.
I know this post is old but if anyone can help me with this please. Would appreciate it.
Cleaned carby. Pretty much did everything, spark plugs, crossed solenoid and all. Even fuel tank got cleaned but the shits cooked.
What could it be? Only reply if the same thing happened to you.

Either you got a defective battery or there's something wrong with your charging system. Have the battery load-tested (standing voltage means nothing) and test the bike's alternator, R/R, etc.

nathan1 · August 15th, 2015, 07:19 AM

Fuark man....
So even if the battery is new the bike still wont kick over?
Dont even know how to test a regulator but fuark it gonna give it a go. Watta drainer

asdfman · August 18th, 2015, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathan1

Fuark man....
So even if the battery is new the bike still wont kick over?
Dont even know how to test a regulator but fuark it gonna give it a go. Watta drainer

Try this flow chart if you're still having problems: https://www.electrosport.com/media/p...ng-diagram.pdf

December 8th, 2010, 10:18 PM	#51
Flying Pig Resident Lurker Name: Solomon Location: Bay Area, CA Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): R6, Strom, 250R, CH80 Elite Posts: 78	Congrats on getting it working again A couple of things to note, in no particular order. You can leave the battery connected to the motorcycle while charging it with the tender, assuming you can reach the motorcycle with the tender plugged into an outlet. It's easier to plug it in if you screw in the o-ring pigtails on the quick disconnect that should have came with the tender - this way you don't have to remove the side fairings & seat to charge the battery. Less of a hassle means you'll probably do it more often. 10.4v is bone dry. A 12V battery is comprised of 6 2v cells. When the cell is full, it holds 2.15V. When it is empty, it holds 1.9V (not 0V ). The difference between full and empty is a measly 0.25V per cell. So 12.9V would be completely full, while 11.4V is completely discharged. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but having less than that means some cells can be damaged. The battery tender works by bringing the voltage slowly up to something like 14.4V while in charging mode. When it deems that the battery is charged, it reduces the voltage (and amperage, if I'm not mistaken) when the battery is in full and switches over to a float mode. Your multimeter will measure around 13.2V then. With that being said, you will want to test your battery's voltage during a neutral state. An hour off the tender should be fine. Some batteries are good at holding a "surface charge". It doesn't hurt to put a small load on the battery as would eliminate the surface charge to give you a better reading. Probably more information than you care to know, but maybe someone will find it useful __________________________________________________ When was the last time you checked your tire pressure?

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December 7th, 2010, 08:35 PM	#41
goodbadugly ninjette.org member Name: AL Location: NYC Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: 27	I received my Battery tender today, here are pictures of it: Voltage of battery before unplugging: Here I disconnected the battery terminals. (Negative first) Front of Ninja 250r 09 OEM battery: Back of Ninja 250r 09 OEM battery: Back of Battery Tender plus: Bottom of Battery Tender Plus: Just putting these details so if someone has the same problem this could help them.

December 7th, 2010, 09:31 PM	#42
goodbadugly ninjette.org member Name: AL Location: NYC Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: 27	Battery is plugged to the battery tender, and the RED light is up. Which is a good sign. Here's a picture: I connected MultiMeter to the battery as it charges: Link to original page on YouTube.

December 8th, 2010, 05:18 AM	#43
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	Bottom line, your battery was discharged!

December 8th, 2010, 07:07 AM	#45
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	A discharged battery will not start the bike!

December 8th, 2010, 04:46 PM	#47
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	You should measure the voltage of the battery with the "tender" disconnected from it!

December 8th, 2010, 06:18 PM	#48
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	You measure the battery's voltage maybe 1/2 hr. after you finished charging it - that gives you the true voltage without the "surface charge", and you should have that battery tested with a load tester to see if it's still any good after you've fully charged it. It may still read 12.6 V and not get a good enough oomph out of it to start the bike. What's the rush to put the battery in at 28 degrees? You going for a ride? Let the battery sit overnight and measure the voltage again, take it to be tested, and if it's alright, then put it back into the bike and see if it starts. Otherwise, you may be doing this again.

December 9th, 2010, 04:54 AM	#52
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	Congratulations! If you hook the battery up to the tender, now, I bet it will show it's charging again. Ask me how I know?

December 9th, 2010, 08:00 AM	#53
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	Glad you got it running again. Remember. most problems are very simple to solve unless you start taking things apart to look for the solution and make it worse and then really hard to diagnose. Put the pigtails on the battery that came with the charger and hook it up every few days for a few hours. or if convenient to where you live and park the bike, leave it plugged in as long as it's this cold, then you will have no further battery problems. And watch out when it's very cold, you have to ride conservatively for a little while to let the tires warm up. Cold tires are very slippery on the pavement, they have little grip compared to warm tires so watch your turns for a while.

December 9th, 2010, 05:07 PM	#56
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	DO NOT start your bike every 2 days during the winter. The draw on the battery to start it is more than you will be replacing charging it by running it 15 min or so. If the bike never gets warmed up properly, the condensation in the exhaust system will cause all kinds of corrosion and rust. Only start it if you want to go for a ride for many miles, otherwise just hook up the battery tender every few weeks or so like I said and winterize it and leave it 'till Spring. Put Stabil in the gas tank at the proper dose, run it for 5 min to get it all through the fuel system and carbs, fill up the gas tank so there's little space for air and condensation (and moisture- water- in the fuel), change the oil and filter, fill up the tires with air, cover over the exhaust to keep critters (mice, bugs) from making a nest in there. cover it up and don't look at it 'till your ready for the warmer weather riding. There is no advantage to starting it every 2 days, you will be doing more damage than good.

December 9th, 2010, 06:32 PM	#58
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	Good for you, and thanks from those of us who tried to help - that's why we're all here.

December 28th, 2010, 06:19 PM	#59
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	OK so my turn: Similar issue to the original post... The first time i tried to start the bike this week, I got one good crank out of the bike and then the engine choked and died. After that, I was only able to get the same buzzing/clicking noise. Then no noise at all. I took the battery to the local shop and they told me the battery was dead, and being a fool i bought a new battery from them, put it on the charger for a few hours and still all I can get is a little clicking at most. Checking both batteries, they are reading at 12.6V, the lights and horn all work fine, and I've checked all fuses. I've also tried jump starting from a car battery with no result and Ive tried push starting with only a few sputters from the engine. Any ideas?

December 28th, 2010, 06:22 PM	#60
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	what happened when you jump started from the car battery?

December 28th, 2010, 09:58 PM	#61
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	Same thing -- just buzzing/clicking (but now that may mean nothing because i took my car in for service today and it was suggested my car's battery be changed soon as well)

December 28th, 2010, 10:03 PM	#62
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I would check the starter circuit relay, the starter relay and the starter itself, it that order, for the source of your starting problems. http://www.mickeywebpages.com/users/...e_Dia_v1.1.gif

December 28th, 2010, 10:27 PM	#63
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	!! So...in other words... "follow the directions for starter circuit relay inspection, and starter relay inspection from the service manual". It seems obvious, but am I just running a wire/connector from the battery to the indicated side of the relay and testing the resistance on the other side?

December 29th, 2010, 09:36 AM	#64
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	Make sure your connections to the battery and the other ends to the starter and ground and at the relay/solenoid are clean without corrosion. A bad connection can rob you of a lot of current. You could try and bypass the relay, attach some heavy cables directly to the starter and a ground from a good battery and see if it turns over. If it does, the starter is OK; if not, the starter may be bad (unlikely in a 2 year old bike). If it turns over, the relay (solenoid) you bypassed may be bad. But I would still bet on your battery being the problem - the clicking/buzzing is the sound the relay/solenoid and starter make when there is insufficient voltage and current to turn over the starter motor. Measure the voltage in your battery before and during and after you hit the starter button. If it drops 2 volts or so, the battery is not fully charged. The bike should have started using the car battery. Like I said before, make sure all your connections are clean and free of corrosion. Your charging up the new battery for "a few hours" may not have been enough to fully charge it so put it back on the charger for another few hours. If it still won't turn over the starter motor, bring it back and have it load tested, it may be no good.

December 29th, 2010, 11:22 AM	#65
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	checked the starter relay and the starter circuit relay and they are good. The started reassembling things and the bike started by chance. I let it run for about 20minutes while i put everything back together and took it for a ride around the neighborhood and had to come back to readjust the clutch. when i did, the ignition fuse blew and after changing that, i seem to be back where i started. i did bypass the battery straight to the starter relay and the starter engages and the engine turns over but doesn't catch and dies off as soon as i remove the connection. checked the relays again and they still appear to be good.

December 29th, 2010, 01:35 PM	#66
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	You may also have to start tracing wires and make sure there's no short from a break in, or abrasion of, the insulation, shorting out against the frame somewhere.

December 29th, 2010, 05:24 PM	#67
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	Maybe. I just plugged all the relays and the CDI back in to clean up for the night and once again the bike just happened to fire up with no problem. rode around for about an hour and came back and once again the i get an occasion click but nothing is making it to the starter. I have a feeling that it could possibly be the starter lockout behind the clutch lever but i have no idea how to test or bypass the switch. Both times I've gotten it to start has been after having the relays unplugged and playing with the starter lockout...

December 29th, 2010, 07:04 PM	#68
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	If that switch was no good there wouldn't be any clicking or buzzing - there would be no starter action at all, the same as if you don't pull in the clutch when you go to start the bike. If you hear some clicking, I would vote against that. Your bike is only 2 years old and I doubt things like that fail so soon. You are going to take apart things that are not broken, and maybe somehow manage to break them. Look elsewhere, like the wiring first. You can also try to spray some contact cleaner (or even WD40 as a start) into the switch to see if you can clean it up, and into the starter switch as well. Work them back and forth a few times, then try it again. If it works, get some contact cleaner, WD40 will initially clean it, then maybe gum it up.

February 15th, 2011, 01:12 PM	#70
k4m1k4z3k ninjette.org member Name: Kel Location: Harford County,MD Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 24	Bought a tender a few weeks ago, topped off both new and old battery and didn't work. I've since worked my way around the entire bike with contact cleaner, tested the ohmmeter on all components in the ignition and starter circuit diagrams from the shop manual with the exception of the neutral switch (I dont know where or how to go about testing that when the engine isnt running) and the CDI (which can't be tested unless i can find someone else with a 250r that i can plug it into). At this point I'm no longer even getting a buzzing from the relays even with a fully charged battery.

August 15th, 2015, 01:43 AM	#71
nathan1 ninjette.org member Name: nathan Location: melbourne Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): none Posts: 15	Goodbadugly dude i got the same thing that you had going on with your bike. You posted pics and vids on the problem. Exact same thing bro. Heres the thing tho. I bought a new battery and it died within 3 weeks. Choked and all etc. I know this post is old but if anyone can help me with this please. Would appreciate it. Cleaned carby. Pretty much did everything, spark plugs, crossed solenoid and all. Even fuel tank got cleaned but the shits cooked. What could it be? Only reply if the same thing happened to you.

August 15th, 2015, 07:19 AM	#73
nathan1 ninjette.org member Name: nathan Location: melbourne Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): none Posts: 15	Fuark man.... So even if the battery is new the bike still wont kick over? Dont even know how to test a regulator but fuark it gonna give it a go. Watta drainer