July 20th, 2012, 11:57 AM | #1 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
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I want to paint my bike - how much paint would I need?
Hello!
I really want to paint my bike. Only, I've never done anything like that before and I'm not sure what amount of paint I would need to paint everything, except the black lower fairing. I have a green 2003 250. Another stupid question. I'd like to add some simple decals (i.e.: the Kawasaki logo). Should it go under or above the clear coat? Pros and cons? Thanks! |
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July 20th, 2012, 12:04 PM | #2 |
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I used 3 cans to completely paint my bike and had a 1/2 can left over. I used about 2 coats and I painted an extra small left fairing. I use the extra for little dings and what not that my bike gets.
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July 20th, 2012, 12:07 PM | #3 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
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Thanks Stingray!
If you don't mind my asking, how much paint was in each cans? are we talking spray cans or quarts or..? Thanks again! |
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July 20th, 2012, 12:16 PM | #4 |
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Name: Jon
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Spray cans, and it was jsut normal size cans, nothing small or extra big. I got them from Home Depot and asked them specifically what would work on both plastic and metal and old paint lol. Make sure you clean the bike COMPLETELY. Dirt will make the paint lift, and if you get any drips buy a really fine grain sand paper and sand over the drips then paint again but try to make it as even as possible. Unless you're a pro you won't do it right the first time, but if you follow these instructions you'll be fine. If you get paint on the rotors or forks just use nail polish rremover poured over a paper towel but don't let it drip!!!!!
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July 20th, 2012, 12:30 PM | #6 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250R - EX250F Posts: 521
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OK yet another question :roll eyes:
Do you guys think touch up paint would work if I wanted to paint the whole bike? I"d really like to have my bike match my car which is magma orange (2007 GTI Fahrenheit). That paint seems hard to find but here is touch up spray cans on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-08-VW-A...6#ht_500wt_986 Could I put this type of paint on top of primer? Would I need a clear coat since this paint already has a glossy finish? Sorry for the newbie questions! I just can't justify/afford the $1,000 quotes I've been getting for a professional job |
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July 20th, 2012, 12:41 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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NP man
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July 20th, 2012, 12:42 PM | #8 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Quote:
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http://www.facebook.com/groups/DeMdNjPagrouprides/ I live my life a quarter mile at a time! Who is affraid of the big bad jiggles???? LOL |
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July 20th, 2012, 05:51 PM | #10 |
I told you bro
Name: Noor
Location: Austin, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 1996 Ninja 250r Posts: 680
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It should work fine; touch up paint isn't anything special/different from normal paint.
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July 20th, 2012, 08:01 PM | #12 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250R - EX250F Posts: 521
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Will do! Not sure when exactly, since money is a bit tight, but I definitely will take care of that in the next year!
I've never painted vehicles before (or with a spray can). It should be interesting! I hope it'll turn out nice. I love my cage and it'd be cool to have a little Ninja Fahrenheit to match it |
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July 20th, 2012, 08:37 PM | #15 |
Limp Noodle
Name: Tyler
Location: Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, Fastest Red money can buy Posts: 212
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DEFINITELY post pics my friend. I've been considering paint my pre gen, but those pesky flame stickers are in my way... Anyone have a good method of getting those babies off?
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July 20th, 2012, 08:55 PM | #16 | |
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Name: Justin
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Quote:
No, take a heat gun heat then heat them up and peel them off. Dont use rattle cans.
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July 20th, 2012, 09:11 PM | #17 |
Limp Noodle
Name: Tyler
Location: Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, Fastest Red money can buy Posts: 212
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Pretty sure they aren't because I can feel the lips of the stickers when I'm waxing and washing... So by heat gun... I don't have one, hairdryer going to work just as well?
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July 20th, 2012, 09:26 PM | #18 |
Avid Kitteh Poster
Name: Justin
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heat gun would work the best but a blow dryer on the hottest setting would work. I think they get pretty hot.
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July 20th, 2012, 10:22 PM | #19 | |
I told you bro
Name: Noor
Location: Austin, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 1996 Ninja 250r Posts: 680
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Quote:
You might want to take a closer look at them and really check if they're clear coated. Sometimes manufactures will clear coat something multiple times and the sticker will go in between those layers. |
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July 20th, 2012, 10:43 PM | #20 |
Avid Kitteh Poster
Name: Justin
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Dont do that... Im sorry but that is going to take such a long time and is just a ****** way to do it... Seriously. Heat gun. Razor blade. done.
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July 21st, 2012, 12:06 AM | #21 |
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Name: dennis
Location: swmo
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+1 me and my dad did it for years when painting meeks trailers. Let me tell you it takes a long time to get one of those big ass stickers off
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July 21st, 2012, 05:07 PM | #22 |
Its not a 250,its a Ninja
Name: Shaun
Location: Little Rock, AR
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): '11 CBR250R, '22 CFMOTO 300NK Posts: 278
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Another option: you can have Lowe's match the rust-o-leum to your car's paint, it will help if you can put a dab of the color WITHOUT CLEAR COAT on a paper, about 2" square. Then follow the ninja250faq directions on painting, spend a week and do about 6-8 coats since it is super cheap.
Also, and I recommend this, you can buy the Rustoleum clearcoat in a rattlecan, it has a nice glossy finish. And it should bond to the paint. You have a professional finish at less than 1/10 of your lowest quote. Then sit back as everyone gasps at the awesomeness of your diy paintjob. |
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July 21st, 2012, 07:55 PM | #23 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250R - EX250F Posts: 521
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jcgss77
Thanks for the reply! Do you think it'd be cheaper than $18.95 a can because that's what the touch-up paint would cost. Also, if I ended up using the touch up paint, would the Rustoleum clear coat still do the job? Thanks to everyone who answered! |
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July 22nd, 2012, 11:33 AM | #25 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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That is a nice limited edition gti. Those are fun little hatchbacks. I'm unsure if rustoleum is lacquer based. You want to do the entire job with the same type of paint from primer to clear if possible. Try to use the same brand as well if possible. I've had some good luck with rustoleum ultra cover primer (and paints too) but their cans overspray like crazy. The primer is pretty good lots of different paints adhere pretty well. A definite no no is urethane basecoat with lacquer clear ; the clear might flake off.
And just a tid bit, I like spraying automotive touchup's paints they usually have a great factory match. I'm actually painting my cars bumper right now. But this is with a HVLP spray gun.
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July 22nd, 2012, 11:09 PM | #26 | |
Its not a 250,its a Ninja
Name: Shaun
Location: Little Rock, AR
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): '11 CBR250R, '22 CFMOTO 300NK Posts: 278
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Quote:
As far as the ROL, I am pretty sure a quart is less than 10$ (Pennsylvania) in the store I work in. I can get a price on a mixed quart tomorrow and let you know. You will have to brush it on, unless you have a paint sprayer. I have not done it myself, but I have heard that ROL applies well when sprayed through a gun. The clearcoat is in a rattlecan, and is less than 10. It is designed to bond to ROL products. Again, I will get more precise info for you. PS-that will be a crazy color for a Ninja! Last futzed with by jcgss77; July 22nd, 2012 at 11:10 PM. Reason: because my brain is rotting |
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July 23rd, 2012, 09:29 AM | #27 | |
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Name: Justin
Location: Norcal
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Quote:
I hope youre not seriously suggesting that....
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July 23rd, 2012, 11:34 AM | #28 | |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250R - EX250F Posts: 521
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Quote:
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July 23rd, 2012, 12:16 PM | #29 |
Avid Kitteh Poster
Name: Justin
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reputable ones are gonna start around $100. Cheapies can run from as low as $30ish
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I powdercoat stuff Help me pay for my addiction I say funny stuff. http://twitter.com/JustinPWNSyou sometimes... I write like a 12 year old too, http://justinpwnsyou.wordpress.com/ |
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July 23rd, 2012, 11:40 PM | #30 |
Its not a 250,its a Ninja
Name: Shaun
Location: Little Rock, AR
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): '11 CBR250R, '22 CFMOTO 300NK Posts: 278
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Didn't you read the ninja250 wiki?
@iplante-you might want to spend the extra and get the good stuff. ROL is mixable, but not recommended. The color might be dead on, but might be dead wrong. With that said, there are a lot of nice colors, and there are a couple that got my eye-my store has a metallic color changing purple and also a green, one of which I will be using on my paint experiment. Anyways, if you can get your desired color, go with how you can. Just remember to remove your stickers first, painted-over stickers are lame. |
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July 23rd, 2012, 11:47 PM | #31 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Pshyk
Location: Fairbanks,AK
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just go to car quest and get actual car paint in a spray can...its better than other spray paints and they also have the clear coat in a can...youre gonna need sand paper...different grits of course...320, 800, 1000,1500, 2000 for extra extra shiny you can google the steps...and of course and do a couple coats...ok...a lot of coats probably. Also the cans are about 10 bills a can just like that other weak as paint you can buy...thats what i used for my seat cowl...
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July 23rd, 2012, 11:49 PM | #32 |
ninjette.org member
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July 24th, 2012, 07:31 AM | #33 |
Avid Kitteh Poster
Name: Justin
Location: Norcal
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No, but if it ever said to brush on paint I will never be taking its advice.
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I powdercoat stuff Help me pay for my addiction I say funny stuff. http://twitter.com/JustinPWNSyou sometimes... I write like a 12 year old too, http://justinpwnsyou.wordpress.com/ |
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July 24th, 2012, 07:48 PM | #34 |
I told you bro
Name: Noor
Location: Austin, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 1996 Ninja 250r Posts: 680
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Saw this on the random pics on the forum main page, close to what you're going for. |
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July 24th, 2012, 09:49 PM | #35 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Pshyk
Location: Fairbanks,AK
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im going for this...
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July 26th, 2012, 10:19 AM | #36 | |
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Quote:
That is a three-stage pearl urethane paint job, you won't get that out of rattlecans no matter how hard you try. I know, I tried. I ended up taking paint and body classes at my local community college, it wasn't too expensive and it taught me how to use real paints with real sprayguns. I honestly wouldn't recommend rattlecan paints at all. They can never cure as hard as catalyzed urethanes, they don't hold up to UV and weathering at all (expect chalking and fading within a year of application, no matter how perfect you think you put it on). It's the nature of using solvent-carried spray can paint that evaporates to dry. Also, whatever you paint with a rattle can will never hold a quality paint again. If you decide in the future to do a real paint job, you'll have to strip off all of the rattlecan paint. Unfortunately, the biggest expense in painting it yourself using good paints and a basic HVLP gun is the compressor. HVLP guns eat up a lot of air so a compressor that can supply a minimum amount of air for spraying small stuff like bike parts is going to run a couple hundred bucks, and even then you'll be spending a lot of time waiting for the tank to refill. There are some options, though. If the goal is to get a long-lasting paint job you have to use quality paints. You can get a quart mixed to match your car at most local automotive paint suppliers, check to see if you have a Sherwin-Williams outlet in your town. Take them something like the gas lid from your car, clean and polished first, and they can put it in a machine and get a good match. They can also look up the mix code and mix a quart from that, that will get it really close. Once you have the paint, clear, and matching catalysts you can buy the equipment to paint it yourself, or pay a shop to paint the parts after you've prepped everything. Prep is key no matter what. The slide-type decals on the tank are under the clear coat, this is to protect them from any spilled gasoline. All the other decals are vinyl on top of the clear and can easily be removed. Remove the vinyl decals on all parts aside from the tank using a heat gun on low or a hair drier on high, you want to heat the area carefully until the decal becomes stretchy. The adhesive will let go before the vinyl will tear, but barely. Much hotter and the plastic will deform permanently, so it's better to pull the vinyl when it's a little less stretchy. Once all the vinyl's off, you will need to sand the tank in the area of the decals to get those off. Those are wet-slide decals rather than adhesive so they're very thin. I've tried sanding them off without damaging the paint underneath and it's virtually impossible. Sand that flat area until the decals are gone, bare metal will be exposed. Get a can of etching primer from a quality paint supply, I use Sherwin-Williams for instance, and prime that area immediately. You'll need to put a few coats on, then wet-sand with 400 or higher to blend the edges in with the painted areas. For all other painted areas, the only prep you need to do is to use a grey Scotchbrite pad (different colors are different roughness, so use grey) until there are no shiny spots at all, anywhere. Anywhere it's shiny the paint will peel. So, work that pad down into the corners, around all edges, etc. Once all the pieces are prepped you can then either paint yourself, or pay a shop to spray it. Trust me, a good shop will be appreciative of a quality prep job and the cost of spraying should be very reasonable. Single stage colors are the easiest and cheapest to spray, the clear is basically built into the color. Two stage, that's base color with a clear over it, is more expensive because of the extra materials, but generally yields a longer-lasting paint job. Three stage paint jobs use two base color coats, generally a solid or metallic first followed by the translucent main color, with the clear being the final third stage. Those are the most expensive to do, not only because of the three different materials, but because applying a translucent color evenly is a major PITA and someone with a good eye for doing it is worth paying a lot more money. That orange candy in the above photo took me all night in the paint booth and was one of the hardest jobs I ever did. Anyhow, hope some of this helps. Last futzed with by FrugalNinja250; July 26th, 2012 at 04:30 PM. |
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July 26th, 2012, 11:14 AM | #37 | |
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July 26th, 2012, 04:28 PM | #38 | |
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If you decide to go the more durable route I would suggest checking out http://www.autobodytoolmart.com for consumables and supplies. Their prices and service are great. The Atomic Orange that I painted above was from the Kirker paint line that I got from them. In the grand scheme of things, doing a nice urethane job isn't all that much more expensive than a rattlecan job, and the durability is far, far greater. If I didn't have the compressor/tools/facilities to shoot urethane myself, I'd rather pay a shop to do the actual spray than use a significantly lower quality rattlecan paint system. Oh, back to the custom pack paints, Sherwin-Williams sells a system where there's a catalyst in a capsule in the can. You bang the can on a hard surface to puncture the catalyst and shake like hell, then you're ready to spray. It's expensive, was something like $20/can last I checked many years ago, and a bike-sized project would need probably 8-10 cans including wasting half a can working out the spray pattern before actually applying paint to the final surfaces. If you buy your paint by the quart and spray through a halfway-decent HVLP gun you can expect to use less than a quart for base and for color, depending on the number of stages and the type of color. For instance, my orange paint job the color used almost a full quart and that was barely enough (I'd used a few tablespoons of the color on a diecast the year before). My current color, a single-stage green modified with basecoat converter and topped with a decent clear took about half a quart of color and about the same for the clear. My next job will be a candy again, I'm getting two quarts of color just to make sure I have enough. |
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July 26th, 2012, 05:22 PM | #39 | |
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October 15th, 2012, 11:16 AM | #40 |
I ride like a granny
Name: Isabelle
Location: Minneapolis
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250R - EX250F Posts: 521
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I got an estimate today for $800 to paint the following:
- Gas tank (magma orange) - Upper cowl (magma orange - road rash repair) - Side fairings (magma orange) - Tail fairing (magma orange) - Front fender (magma orange) - Lower cowl (black) - Flush mount turn signals (black) - they are currently "carbon fibre" and I don't like that. I'm probably gonna go for it. They're just making sure the paint is available and the price isn't obnoxious And I gotta remove the decals myself which isn't a big deal at all. So this week/weekend I'm gonna remove the decals and make sure all fairings are clean. Then I gotta take off my gas tank. I have a pump to empty it. I can follow the online instructions on the Ninja 250 Wiki to take it off. I'm wondering if there are any precautions I need to take to keep the carbs clean while the tank is off if it stays off for a while? Super excited, btw
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