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Old October 22nd, 2018, 08:38 PM   #81
GreasedLissik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
Make sure your side stand is retracted when you release the clutch lever.

Bill
Thanks Bill, but imsure have the kick stand up because that 250 has been on its center stand for about two month, but since i put this 300 in there im having problems, just like how got to get my 3rd battery within 1 year, i went to e min charged and when they gave it back they said it was no good.

so i tried to drop the clutch , and the bike wouldn't even move even with me holding the clutch down.

and that pinging noise i think is the air-purge-SOL,


Edit: forgot to mention that when I was put there today, I noticed that I had exhaust coming out of the header/ cylinder head, but I am 100% sure that there is a flange be crushed.

Last futzed with by GreasedLissik; October 22nd, 2018 at 09:59 PM.
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 09:51 PM   #82
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Then measure actual resistance of kickstand-switch and make sure it's has correct ohms as dictated by FSM. It's very, very easy for switch to get mis-aligned and not triggered properly by kickstand. It doesn't matter one bit if kickstand is up or not, it's state of switch that counts.

In fact, on my race-bike, I don't even have kickstand and bracket is ground completely off frame. But guess what? I still have kickstand-switch and it must be depressed for bike to start and run.
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 10:04 PM   #83
GreasedLissik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Then measure actual resistance of kickstand-switch and make sure it's has correct ohms as dictated by FSM. It's very, very easy for switch to get mis-aligned and not triggered properly by kickstand. It doesn't matter one bit if kickstand is up or not, it's state of switch that counts.

In fact, on my race-bike, I don't even have kickstand and bracket is ground completely off frame. But guess what? I still have kickstand-switch and it must be depressed for bike to start and run.
Thanks Danno, I’ll check it out, I’ll look for the ohms rating. If I plug the two independent plugs in on the chassis, it should of worked right?
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 10:16 PM   #84
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Which plugs are you referring to?

Find and circle them on wiring-diagram and we can figure what state they need to be in.

There’s complex boolean AND/OR logic using diodes and multiple switches involved on both positive and ground circuits.
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 10:52 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
There’s complex boolean AND/OR logic using diodes and multiple switches involved on both positive and ground circuits.
It’s on the left(drivers)side of the carburetors. I can’t seem to find the ohmage on both of my PDFs
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Old October 24th, 2018, 08:00 AM   #86
GreasedLissik
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I found how to check the sidestand:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checki..._safety_switch
It was found last night, but haven’t read all of it yet for the ohmsbut I have a felling it’s the on the chassis harness , for my problem atleast
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Old October 24th, 2018, 02:12 PM   #87
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That's testing the clutch switch.

You need to measure sidestand switch (with kickstand down, then test again with kickstand up).

Also measure neutral switch as well.
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Old October 24th, 2018, 11:24 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
That's testing the clutch switch.
Also measure neutral switch as well.
Ok will do, last time I took a look that lower end of the bike was super oily/greasy, so I’m going to tear apart the side switch when I go down time at work:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleani..._clutch_switch

And for some reason I can’t get my left handed electronics to line up properly, any comments? I will take a picture tomorrow, sorry if it’s dark but it’s at 0500 @ PST.
Thank you everyone who has contributed and I hope this thread moves to help others.
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Old October 25th, 2018, 04:34 AM   #89
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There’s little hole in handlebar that you need line up under left-hand switch.

Again, measure and test parts before tearing them apart. Very possible to make matters worse by damaging perfectly-working parts.

And due to shutdown symptoms when releasing clutch, the clutch-switch is working!! That’s the correct behavior when your sidestand switch is broken! It thinks your kickstand is down and kills engine as safety procedure. There is nothing you can do with clutch-switch to change this as it’s working as designed and intended.

Again, problem is NOT clutch switch, it’s your KICKSTAND/SIDESTAND switch that’s broken.

NOT clutch switch.

SIDESTAND switch!!!


Here’s a test:

1. put kickstand DOWN and try taking off by letting out clutch, what happens? It dies!!!
2. put kickstand UP and try taking off by letting out clutch, what happens? It dies!!!

Exact same behavior with kickstand down OR up shows KICKSTAND SWITCH is broken. Clutch switch is operating as it should.
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Old January 7th, 2019, 11:58 PM   #90
GreasedLissik
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I can’t remember what I did to fix that, but I worked though it, so as we all take risks I took one and got this 300 out of Craigslist, it after a cool minute, I don’t even think I put mileage on the bike, but the crankshaft was shot, and I had taken it to a well known race shop, it should be finished soon, but little as we know; I then put the 250 crank and rods in there to have have this bike running again, and it worked for 187 miles, until the timing jumped and now I am waiting on picking up a tensor, and chain. Not to mention that the intake cam shaft broke when the timing jumped. I am waiting on a carb jet kit to rejet the carbs.
But now I might be sitting on 250 cams because I don’t have the money to drop 70$ on 300 cams I would rather buy aftermarket cams, did I mention the I installed a low profile radiator fan? And there are some new piston rings in there as well to make sure this thing holds up
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Old January 8th, 2019, 07:09 AM   #91
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Going back to that kickstand no start issue, I found out that the clutch that I had on this 300 was the slippery one from the 300 with the 250 clutch cover, and that didn’t work , I have the scars on in inside of the cover to prove that
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Old April 21st, 2019, 08:03 AM   #92
GreasedLissik
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Good morning and happy Easter can’t seem to 300 rebuild started I have a No start issue, I have airflow I have spark and I have gas. I have also checked multiple times to see if i have the timing correct, as what the 300/250 service manuals everything looks good. I do get backfires from random points of time. And my gel battery has died on me so before I would take it to Autozone to get it charged but now I have a trickle charger that has done the work so far well.

Today I am going to check my compression in the cylinders, and report back.
I am also going to make sure each coil on plugs are providing spark because, last time I only checked on one side.
I have installed: 300 with 250 charging system, 300 ignition coils, k&n air filter and upgraded the jets on the carbs (also checked the pilot jets and cross referenced them with the 250 service manual and looks like this 250 came with larger ones), I have also installed an aftermarket coiling fan that fits on the 250 radiator that was working well when I had this started before I had changed the piston rings and serviced the crank and bearings.

Yes my kickstand is up>_< lol I am dieing to get back on the road and leave my car at home.
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Old April 21st, 2019, 09:24 AM   #93
GreasedLissik
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Looks like my compression test kit is not working.
The gap in the spark plug seemed to be a little high one was .033~ the other was .040~ And they are now taped to spec.
Didn’t test the coils but they are both producing spark.
I now have the battery on the charger me going to wait until then, it’s a 12v 2amp trickle charger
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Old April 27th, 2019, 09:22 AM   #94
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I might be talking to the wall here but I’m sure I am close, I thought I got the timing nailed pretty good last time I was in the gears TDC of cyclinder number Two. And I was advised by another person to go off cyclinder number One. Because the bike is running like sputter then dies. But the manual says that TDC # 2.... the carbs are ultra sonic cleaned, so there is no way that’s the issue I did put 110 jet size in
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Old April 27th, 2019, 09:23 AM   #95
GreasedLissik
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I might be talking to the wall here but I’m sure I am close, I thought I got the timing nailed pretty good last time I was in the gears TDC of cyclinder number Two. And I was advised by another person to go off cyclinder number One. Because the bike is running like sputter then dies. But the manual says that TDC # 2.... the carbs are ultra sonic cleaned, so there is no way that’s the issue I did put 110 jet size in
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Old December 12th, 2019, 07:54 PM   #96
GreasedLissik
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Good evening everyone, I need help and bad, after going through 3 motor rebuilds I’ve just decided to buy a new/used block. I had gone through 3 motors by knowing that I have had shavings in each block so far. So with then newer block I have installed it but I have also had issues, this is the list for that I build for this motor:
1) 300 with carbs and my main jets are now 115, with the ex250 stator and alt.
2) deleted the CA emissions; caped red line in gas tank, check valve on the middle and drain/bleeder on the right/blue line ( I feel this is kind of redundant because even if I have the tank off I still get flow if I suffocate the carbs intake)
3) K&N intake
4)spark plugs are gapped at .028 in. (Stock 300 gap)
5) I soldiered the plugs in for the 300 to the stock 250 harness
6) after market cooling fan installed the ex250 radiator
7) I’m running and exhaust that has NO, O2 bung so that’s a hit a miss on how much fuel is going in and out that I know of.
8) these carbs have gone through an ultrasonic cleaner and a air compressor well above 110 psi

That’s everything I can think of, I’ve put 180 miles on since this 300 was installed the 2007 ex250. I started off with the stock jet that came with the carbs but I worked it up to the 115.
I went for 20 mile cruse and the motor cut off so I pulled in a gas station. I had another rider come up to me while I was sitting next to my bike watching the bus stop, and he helped me out and Taught me to take a wet towel of gasoline and put it on the air filter that I had(luckily I had tools in my back pack). So it took a few attempts at the starter and it started, And this is when I had the low power input.
So I took it home nice and slow due to no power(one cylinder) and when I got to my drive way it died. I checked gap and adjusted if needed, checked spark on each coil, and the coil on the statorside/engineer side of the bike was bad so I changed it. The bike last sounded like it wanted to start once but I haven’t been able to get it going again.

It turns over, battery is charged from a trickle charger, new gas, I’ve tried jumping it with another battery and still nothing, I’ve tried to drop the clutch, nothing. All I want for ChriStmas is to have one thing go right. I work 7days aweek and I don’t want to put it in the shop for 90$ an hr but that’s what it might resort to.

I’m sorry if I’ve been a d**f**
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Old December 13th, 2019, 06:54 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
I went for 20 mile cruse and the motor cut off so I pulled in a gas station. I had another rider come up to me while I was sitting next to my bike watching the bus stop, and he helped me out and Taught me to take a wet towel of gasoline and put it on the air filter that I had(luckily I had tools in my back pack). So it took a few attempts at the starter and it started, And this is when I had the low power input.
So I took it home nice and slow due to no power(one cylinder) is to have one thing go right.
well... if you don’t understand that your problem is engine’s not getting petrol from your carbs, i’m not wasting any time. Do search here for “clean carbs ducatiman” for only true fix for your issue. There are NO shops that can fix your issue. Not for $90/hr, not for $500 or 2000. Don’t waste your time.
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Old December 14th, 2019, 10:25 AM   #98
GreasedLissik
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@DannoXYZ are we talking about having ducatiman rebuilding them?
I thought I was getting gAs because I have fuel on my plugs when I pull them
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Old December 14th, 2019, 06:27 PM   #99
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When are you seeing wet plugs? Does it light with match? If so, you've got way, way too much petrol, like 50x too much. Wet petrol does not burn! My high-school shop teacher did scary demonstration of throwing lit match into bucket of liquid petrol, it went >pft< and went out. Petrol must be vapourised with lots of air in order to burn.


From info you've given, logic would go as follows:

1. bike runs, good, have petrol
2. bike stops, not good. why?
3. put rag with petrol in airbox
4. bike runs.

Conclusion#1 - without #3 (rag w/petrol), bike receives no petrol and does not run

Conclusion#2 - carbs are not factory-clean

Conclusion#3 - to get carbs back to factory-clean fresh, needs to be serviced by someone that can genuinely clean carbs back to factory-fresh condition. Someone with experience of cleaning 100s of carbs, who has specialized equipment with giant selection of scrub brushes and wire picks and wire flosses, and most importantly, knows which tool to use when and where. Someone with ultrasonic cleaner using exact radioactive caustic solvents needed to clean dried petrol varnish (plastic). Someone with micro soda-blaster to thoroughly clean hidden internal passages in carb-bodies. Not very likely any motorcycle shop would have such person on staff.
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 08:30 PM   #100
GreasedLissik
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Hey y’all, so I’ve tried to work on this bike but I didn’t figure it out, but I had to take the bike to a tech to work on, but I have a feeling he isn’t wanting to check the work, I personally never opened the motor. But only to change the 300 stator to the 250, so I can keep the carbs on the bike.
The technician says that the bikes timing off, (to advanced)should i try to find the BingTang Racing. Cdi upgrade to retard this?? I have no ideas which one to really find since it’s in Ti?
Https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=247303

I’ll be back my device is going to die/:
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Old February 23rd, 2020, 06:14 AM   #101
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Timing....was the flywheel removed at any time? Note a tiny woodruff key located on the crank assures the FW is properly timed, obviously critical to be present, assuring the timing triggering at correct time. The keys have been known to go missing or even break off flat, still allowing installation, but off time. You need to check.

Also, was the crank position sensor properly removed/reinstalled within the stator changeover? Another part critical to timing.

AFA carbs....find the oldest guy in your chosen service department (if that older guy exists there) ...i doubt carbs are even taught these days in factory service schools. I just happen to fit into that "older" category. This new fangled FI tech didn't exist in the bike world when I started out, forcing an education in carb tech at that time.
Simply shoot me a PM if service is needed.
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Old February 23rd, 2020, 08:42 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
I personally never opened the motor.
Good, you're learning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
The technician says that the bikes timing off, (to advanced)
What’s the difference between cam timing and ignition timing? Which one is he talking about?

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 23rd, 2020 at 04:36 PM.
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