August 29th, 2014, 01:20 AM | #1 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
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All about chains
Alright so I'm looking into switching out the chain & sprockets on my N300 the oem chain lasted a solid 9000~ miles without issues but was definitely worn down a bit extra because I rode it through the winter (salt and all)
I know that I need a 520 chain and I know what size sprockets I want but when it comes to a good chain I don't know the difference between a cheap chain and a pricier one
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August 29th, 2014, 01:41 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org sage
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DID, EK, RK are well-established manufacturers.
X-Rings will run you north of $70. O-Rings hover around $50-60. The prices on "cheap" chains are often too good to be true and you can gauge that for yourself. However, researching the manufacturer will give you a better idea of the QC than the price they sell their products for (try Googling "Volar Motorsports" chains and see what you find). |
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August 29th, 2014, 01:46 AM | #3 |
old git
Name: Steve
Location: Geneve Switzerland
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): BMW K1300S Posts: 479
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If you do regular cleaning of the chain it will last many thousands of miles my son has 34,000 miles on his ER6F (Ninja 650) still on the original chain and sprockets.
Steve
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August 29th, 2014, 01:49 AM | #4 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
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this is true, however my current chain is pretty done. A large result of riding through salt roads and cleaning it once every 1-2 weeks in the winter which let the salt corrode it a bit. I'm sure I could get another 1-2k miles out of it but tightening the chain every 2-300miles (every time I clean it) is enough of a pain to just replace it
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August 29th, 2014, 05:27 AM | #5 |
dirty boy
Name: Joe
Location: Johnstown, PA
Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): I don't even know anymore?? Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '14
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can't go wrong with any of the main players in the chain game.
I'd throw renthal in the mix as well, they are on par with DID
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August 29th, 2014, 05:40 AM | #6 |
sammich maker
Name: snot
Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '15
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I stay away from aluminium sprockets. They don't seem to last very long.
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August 29th, 2014, 06:22 AM | #7 |
dirty boy
Name: Joe
Location: Johnstown, PA
Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): I don't even know anymore?? Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '14
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Truth, they are more of a performance part, more for racers looking for that little bit of an edge not ideal for general street use unless you have the cash to throw at replacing them
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August 29th, 2014, 07:04 AM | #8 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
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^ I'm looking for durability so aluminum definitely isn't in the cards
that said, I don't even think the sprockets need to be changed but I'm changing them anyway to match the chain because I like the idea of replacing the full set rather than one part at a time
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August 29th, 2014, 07:16 AM | #9 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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ERV3
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August 29th, 2014, 07:26 AM | #10 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
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^ erv3 appears to not be what I'm looking for as the reviews seem to be saying that it wears quickly (could be them but it's designed for racing so lightweight parts may wear faster)
what I'm looking at right now are http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch and the budget option if I decide that it'll last just as long (in kawi green obv) http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch both 520x120 I think both of these will last >10k miles w/proper maintenance which is what I'm looking for
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August 29th, 2014, 07:38 AM | #11 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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Any of the major chain manf. should be comparable in terms of how they last when properly taken care of. And all should easily go 10K as well.
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August 29th, 2014, 07:48 AM | #12 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
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MOTM - Mar '14
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budget option it is then, it uses a clip so I'll just safety wire it on instead of using the clip
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August 29th, 2014, 08:08 AM | #13 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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Yeah, safety wire on a clip link should be fine, people do it all the time on the track and there is no more punishing place than that. Rivet link would be "better" in terms of not worrying about, but I actually think a safety wired clip style can be "better" if you use it to take the chain off for better maint from time to time. Just IMHO.
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August 31st, 2014, 06:02 AM | #14 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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August 31st, 2014, 10:33 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
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Are you talking about Volar? Your experiences weren't unique, there are tons of stories online about their crappy quality.
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August 31st, 2014, 12:35 PM | #16 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16
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Thought you were getin the green chain
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August 31st, 2014, 12:59 PM | #17 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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What I am finding are tons of stories talking about tons of stories with a few referring back to my own, where installer error absolutely was a factor (they ruined the master link). I recall seeing one other problem relort. which was long before they supposedly switched manufacturers/suppliers.
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August 31st, 2014, 05:40 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
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It's not just this site though.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=61735.5 http://bit.ly/1nOxt9S http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...-honestly.html http://ocmoto.com/index.php?topic=43449.0
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August 31st, 2014, 09:02 PM | #19 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
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I am, I wanted to thoroughly go through my options first though
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August 31st, 2014, 09:10 PM | #20 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16
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I think I need a new chain, but it's not salts fault... Gold xring possibly
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August 31st, 2014, 09:29 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Rebecca
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 w/ ABS, 2014 NC700X, 2008 Ninja 250 (sold), 2002 Ninja 250 (sold) Posts: A lot.
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I've had the DID gold VX2 x-ring chain on both the 300 and the new-gen. The first chain I put on the new-gen was a DID standard chain (no o- or x-ring) and that thing wore out within 3k miles. Definitely don't go that route unless you really like replacing chains lol. Replace it with the VX2 chain and only had to adjust it maybe once or twice the rest of the time I owned the bike. I put about 10k miles on the new-gen while I owned it.
I think I've put about 10k miles on the current chain on my 300 now and it's still going strong. Haven't really had to adjust it. I'm not that great about cleaning it but I try to lube it regularly. It's not the most expensive chain DID has but it's more than good enough. I've been happy with the quality so far. You will have to buy the riveting master link separately if you want that though. I've bought the chain off Amazon each time and was able to buy exactly the number of links I needed. No need to waste cash on links you're just gonna cut off. |
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September 1st, 2014, 12:17 AM | #22 | |||
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Anyway, there is a STRONG correlation between people who can't afford expensive chains and people who will attempt to install it themselves without proper tools or experience. I am one of those people. I cracked the rivet link on one trying to pull off the Harbor Freight Heavy-Duty Chain Breaker as a rivet tool "Life Hack." No, that isn't the one that failed on me (never used it)! At least I only attempted it after having TWO horribly botched installations from professionals. The failed one was damaged by Stark Cycles on installation when they removed the extra links before installing it (partially pushed a sleeve through with the extracted pin; pinched and destroyed O-ring on plate side of rivet master link; huge gap on opposite side with no O-ring seal). The failed on before that was not Volar. The failed one AFTER that was Kawasaki OEM EK SRO520! Now, for obvious reasons, people are also MUCH more likely to blame the chain for their own errors when it isn't a known/established quality brand. This is a difficult rut for any emerging quality brand to get through. I see it happening everywhere so I look at all criticism of lesser brands with a healthy dose of skepticism. That's what makes it so easy to spot "bandwagon" mentality. Look at them case-by-case. For example, the guy reporting the stormtrooper.com Volar case is specifically saying the same thing I am saying! Quote:
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All I'm saying is, let's take these reports into consideration while being being careful not to jump on the bandwagon if we don't have *personal* experience. I learned that lesson after bad-mouthing Volar only to stick my foot in my mouth when the same thing happened with an OEM chain. It is cheap enough and I am curious enough that I will be installing another. This time I will document every chain service with a wearable camera. We'll see how it goes! My biggest complaint so far was the lack of replacement master links for a chain that is very likely to be installed by non-professionals. They acknowledged it when I complained and partially addressed it when I suggested that they at least include a clip AND a rivet type so that people who damage their rivets or lack the proper tool can still install it correctly. |
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September 1st, 2014, 12:31 AM | #23 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
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I fixed the zx6r link. Everything isn't built to the same quality. Sometimes cheap is just that, cheap. Saving a few bucks to buy an off-brand chain, or brake pads, or any other critical safety-related component in the hopes that it will perform as well as the known quantities will never pay off in the long term. Buy a decent chain and sprockets; don't futz up the installation; and clean, lube, and adjust it as appropriate. It will last for tens of thousands of miles on a ninjette without a worry.
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September 1st, 2014, 12:35 AM | #24 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
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and don't adjust the chain to be too tight every other time you adjust it too
I apparently have that habit as well, which would explain why the chain wear felt like it accelerated when I started having to adjust it, now it's definition a dead chain. I think I'll be driving the truck until the new chain comes in, not sure if I'll swap the sprockets though I'll have to look at the price tag on some sprockets and the condition of my sprockets to decide that
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September 1st, 2014, 01:01 AM | #25 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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September 1st, 2014, 01:07 AM | #26 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
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No, that's not the same thing. Everything isn't equally good or bad. The information about the 250R EBC rotors was was particularly surprising, and was very useful for folks to find out. The reason it was surprising was because of their history and general reputation, and the company made it right. You'd have to point me to any quality issues with EBC pads, as all I've ever seen is the ones that were made in mirror image a few years ago (which again, the company made right).
Deciding to buy cheap crap just to see if it's really crap isn't a great way to save money when you're talking about chains, brakes, tires, etc. Especially when we're not talking about thousands of dollars in savings; for these components we're talking about tens of dollars at most.
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September 1st, 2014, 01:42 AM | #27 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
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rule of thumb in every area
"you get what you pay for" this applies more towards cheap stuff than higher end stuff because there tend to be a lot of mid-level (in terms of price) brands that don't advertise the way some more expensive products do but are more or less the same quality just cheaper because they don't have the advertisement overhead to pay for. I like to buy mid-level stuff in everything that I purchase since it seems to last a long time and is close enough to the top level stuff to where I'm content with the purchase and don't get buyers remorse due to paying too much. saxophones, guitars, skateboards, longboards, bicycles (it amazes me how expensive these get), clothing, moto safety gear, mechanical keyboards (I type a lot so this was a great investment for me), snowboards, bows, knives, glasses, speakers, cars, bikes, and so on it's all the same. The top level stuff is nice but it's rarely necessary and when it is necessary you know full well what you need through experience with other products that you have gotten within the mid-tier
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September 1st, 2014, 10:33 AM | #28 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rolf
Location: Sweden
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300 Posts: 70
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Since this is all about chains I want to report that my OEM chain lasted 23000 km. I was hoping for more but it was time to replace it, it had stretched the 1 % that is the common wear indicator (corresponding to maybe 6 mm on the chain adjusters). The front sprocket had shark fin-teeth. The rear sprocket was not as worn but due as well.
I now have an EK MXVF chain, will let you know how it wears. I don't believe that keeping the chain tight will make it wear faster, as long as it's within the manual's 20-30 mm recommendation. The normal pulling forces on the chain are enormous compared to the tightening force (or the force at rest), if I calculated correctly around 1000 N when riding on the highway and up to 10 000 N at full throttle in first gear. |
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