Coolant

[SafetyPaws]

As I was installing my AreaP system i noticed that the coolant is almost below the Low line in the tank. I had a few questions.

1. Can I just purchase some coolant and fill up the reservoir?
2. If the above is acceptable, is their a specific bike coolant?
3. Also - It gets damned humid and hot here in the sumer and well below freezing here in winter, is there a reccomended coolant to use? I checked the manual and stock coolant is at -31* F. So i think winter is ok, anything that helps keep extra cool for summer? Driving on hwy sucks for all the stops, the fan always turns on!
4. I searched forums and only relevant info i could find was the change coolant wiki that was stickied in @gilmorec61 DIY - Do i have to do a flush I am almost at 4k miles?
5. I guess my main concern too is if i have to do a flush with the reserve tank being so low. If i could take carb out and rejet i am sure i can do that, the DIY was helpful - but if i can avoid it (incase something goes wrong and i have less riding time) i would rather just top off the tank.

I would appreciate any feedback on the subject matter.

edit: pg 94-99 in my manual part no. 99987-1691 for reference

[subxero]

i noticed the same thing the other week i had my bike apart. I plan on just topping it off whether or not this is the best idea.

I just bought some pre mixed bike coolant when i was at the bike store browsing the other day. My original plan was to buy coolant and mix myself but sometimes im a sucker for easy i'm sure i way overpaid.

interested in seeing what others chime in and say

[mgentz]

Yes
No
Any antifreeze. I like lp coolants.
Only need to flush if changing coolant type.
Again..you can just top off...match colors and run 50/50.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by SafetyPaws

..........I would appreciate any feedback on the subject matter.

Response to all the questions above:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

Never use non-distilled water for anything related to the cooling system of your bike.

Any new coolant most be rated "safe for aluminum radiators".

[Alex]

If it's still above the low line, I wouldn't worry about it. If I did worry about it, I'd put in a small amount of distilled water until it was more in the middle between the lines.

[DaBlue1]

Can I just purchase some coolant and fill up the reservoir?
Yes

If the above is acceptable, is their a specific bike coolant?
There are bike specific coolants, but you don't need it at this point. Regular antifreeze (the green stuff) will work fine. Just make sure it is safe for aluminum. It will mix fine with the OEM coolant.

Do i have to do a flush I am almost at 4k miles?
No, only if you are changing the coolant.

I guess my main concern too is if i have to do a flush with the reserve tank being so low.

You should not have to do a flush with so little miles. Just check to make sure the coolant in the reservoir has not oxidized and has sediment in the bottom. Then top it off correctly and check the radiator too

Good info here.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...09&postcount=7
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...postcount=2720

[SafetyPaws]

I attached image, It is not as low as i thought, i checked at it when it was on side stand so it appeared lower than it was. When i held it as steady as i could with one hand to snap the photo it looks like im just above the Low line.

Originally Posted by mgentz

Yes
No
Any antifreeze. I like lp coolants.
Only need to flush if changing coolant type.
Again..you can just top off...match colors and run 50/50.

Ty, does the 50/50 mean its already premixed and i can just pour it in or i have to mix with water myself and pour it in resovoir?

Originally Posted by Motofool

Response to all the questions above:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

Never use non-distilled water for anything related to the cooling system of your bike.

Any new coolant most be rated "safe for aluminum radiators".

Thanks i read both those wiki's, not sure how i missed them earlier. Very informative. In there is says i can use the Prestone like dad used in camaro..i recently sold my 95 camaro and have some shell antifreeze from it but it looks worn and old. I cant read all of the label. I saw 50/50 on there but it does not say in which context. I also cannot read from what is available if its safe for the alum radiators. probably best to buy a new gal?

The coolant should be changed at regular intervals. Depending on the year, the Service Manual calls for a change at 18-24,000 miles. Since some people will take a long time to get to that number of miles, you should change it at least every 2 years, regardless of how many miles you have on it.

Should i still follow this - change it every 2 years regardless?

Originally Posted by Alex

If it's still above the low line, I wouldn't worry about it. If I did worry about it, I'd put in a small amount of distilled water until it was more in the middle between the lines.

In that scenario where would i be able to get distilled water from? Wouldn't it be easier to pick up some antifreeze from gas station or meijer?

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

[I]

Good info here.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...09&postcount=7
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...postcount=2720

Thanks for answering as well, your links are no longer available =/

I am about to go to an O Reillys Auto parts (used to be Murrays if anyone in area) - like an autozone to go pick some up. Any particular brand that matches up with the stock to top it off?

one of the articles said:

according to the makers of Peak/Sierra and Arctic Blend coolant, you can combine the two without any damage to your cooling system, but it's not a bad habit to use the same kind of fluids in your bike as are already there when you top off

Just trying to be as safe as possible. Will probably look for that peak/sierra or artic blend. I swear i have some laying around or in one of my familys car but not sure if its compatible or how old it is.

Edit: When i fill it do i fill it to match the H line, ride around for a bit then check to top it off? Or do i do it in between the H and L a lil below the H?

[Alex]

Originally Posted by SafetyPaws

In that scenario where would i be able to get distilled water from? Wouldn't it be easier to pick up some antifreeze from gas station or meijer?

Most supermarkets should have some. If not, hardware stores. The advantage to distilled water is that it isn't going to react with anything. There's a (small) chance that whatever antifreeze you add may not play nice with the aging antifreeze that you have in the bike already. It's not a great idea to mix different types, although the risk is small. If you're just topping it up a smidge, adding a little bit of distilled water has zero risk.

[alex.s]

your coolant looks disgusting. think about flushing

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by Alex

Most supermarkets should have some. If not, hardware stores. The advantage to distilled water is that it isn't going to react with anything. There's a (small) chance that whatever antifreeze you add may not play nice with the aging antifreeze that you have in the bike already. It's not a great idea to mix different types, although the risk is small. If you're just topping it up a smidge, adding a little bit of distilled water has zero risk.

I may have to get some distilled then until i am able to do a flush. eek! (hah the smiley i choose to describe eek was coded eek =F )

If i add some distilled, how much should i add either until i top it off or flush? It seems like i am just over the L line (3-4mm), had my dad hold it up straight for me while i took a peek.

Originally Posted by alex.s

your coolant looks disgusting. think about flushing

You can really tell just from the outside? Damn. Here is another pic from what i was able to grab from inside, it still looked like kawi green. If you guys recommend i do the flush i can probably do it this weekend. It doesn't seem to bad of a job. Would have just avoided it for another year if it wasn't necessary.

I do not see no formations of buildup sediments or crystallization of any sort.

[alex.s]

keep in mind in a correctly working cooling system, the overflow is not used. check the actual radiator cap for fluid levels and coolant condition

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by alex.s

keep in mind in a correctly working cooling system, the overflow is not used. check the actual radiator cap for fluid levels and coolant condition

Here's with cap off, looks good but those floaties. What do you recommend?

[alex.s]

a full fluids flush with an oil test to make sure your engine is healthy never hurt. your coolant looks disgusting btw. and if i saw that kind of shiny particles floating around i would assume part of the water pump was going out or something

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by alex.s

a full fluids flush with an oil test to make sure your engine is healthy never hurt. your coolant looks disgusting btw. and if i saw that kind of shiny particles floating around i would assume part of the water pump was going out or something

thanks for the feedback, looks like i will do a flush this weekend then. What kind of oil test do i need to do?

How do i determine the water pump is bad? Is that an easy swap out or is that a B..

Also should i keep it how it is for now then, a little above the L or should i go run and find some distilled water?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by SafetyPaws

Here's with cap off, looks good but those floaties. What do you recommend?

Draw some of the coolant out and examine it in a clear jar. Some of it appears to be bubbles, you can't really tell because of the lighting. You can get some Coolant Test Strips to test it a little deeper if need be.
I'd be more concerned if you had some yellow/ brown/ greenish sludge around the neck or bottom of the cap.

My OEM coolant was the same cooler as yours, when I replaced it.

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Draw some of the coolant out and examine it in a clear jar. Some of it appears to be bubbles, you can't really tell because of the lighting. You can get some Coolant Test Strips to test it a little deeper if need be.
I'd be more concerned if you had some yellow/ brown/ greenish sludge around the neck or bottom of the cap.

My OEM coolant was the same cooler as yours, when I replaced it.

10 bux for strips, is it even worth it or just do the flush? Oh well it looks like its above the L for now so It should be good. I am going to go put it back together for tonight so i can go to work in AM. Its pitch black out atm. Thanks everyone for feedback so far, if you guys can still continue and help so i can make the necessary changes this weekend. I sold my camaro so this is my only mode of transportation - cant have to much down time, only really 2 days. So i would appreciate what ever suggestions /changes.

[SafetyPaws]

I just bought some engine ice. And want to make sure before I do the change. To do the flush I can use tap / hose water to run it clean like the wiki says?

If you're changing coolant types (say from ethylene glycol to propylene glycol, which is less toxic) flush the coolant system completely by filling it with water, running the engine for a minute, draining the water, and repeating until the water comes out clear. It should only take one or two flushes to completely clean out the system. For a coolant system flush, any kind of clean water can be used, but for the final water/coolant mixture, distilled water must be used. The flush water isn't in the system long enough to cause problems if it's not distilled.

Just want to be sure so I kan flush today while there is still light out.

[Jesse8931]

make sure the coolant you put in is silicate free. I use pro honda hp coolant.

[mgentz]

I flush with distilled water. You never get what u put in all out and this prevents issues.

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I flush with distilled water. You never get what u put in all out and this prevents issues.

How much do I need to buy of the coolant and distilled water? I could not find the volume of liquid needed. I purchase one container of the 1/2 gal Engine Ice. Is that enough? I was waiting for a response - will have to do flush tomorrow.

[mgentz]

Buy 3 gal of water. Its $3. Do the pure water flush as mentioned.

[Bones85]

Originally Posted by SafetyPaws

How much do I need to buy of the coolant and distilled water? I could not find the volume of liquid needed. I purchase one container of the 1/2 gal Engine Ice. Is that enough? I was waiting for a response - will have to do flush tomorrow.

1.5L (1.6 US qt) of coolant according to the service manual. Two or three gallons of distilled water should be plenty to thoroughly flush the system.

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Buy 3 gal of water. Its $3. Do the pure water flush as mentioned.

Thanks, I will pick some up tonight. How many times should i run the flush? If system takes 1.6 qts - with 3 gals i should be able to run the fresh distilled 7.5 times. (4 qts to a gal, 3 gals).

Originally Posted by Bones85

1.5L (1.6 US qt) of coolant according to the service manual. Two or three gallons of distilled water should be plenty to thoroughly flush the system.

ty ty could not find this in manual either -- Edit: damit page 9, hah i skipped to coolant secion. the 1.6 qts is for the radiator and the resovoir correct?

Originally Posted by Jesse8931

make sure the coolant you put in is silicate free. I use pro honda hp coolant.

It does not say silcate free, but it does say phosphate free. It also does not say that it is or isnt safe for aluminum engines. I believe it is safe from all of the reccommendations: (ninjette, the guys at local shop, and STG.com). I attached pics for anyone interested. It says a non toxic environmentally friendly propylene glycol formula premixed with de-ionized water.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by SafetyPaws

Thanks, I will pick some up tonight. How many times should i run the flush? If system takes 1.6 qts - with 3 gals i should be able to run the fresh distilled 7.5 times. (4 qts to a gal, 3 gals).

Keep flushing until it starts to look like it's coming out nearly as clear as when it went in. It sometimes takes a while, but you should have more than enough water.

[Joshorilla]

If it were me I would run a hose from the house and leave that in to flush it for as long as I liked if you believe you have a lot of crud in there.

Now you don't want to run the system with tap water, but it won't harm the system at all just being used to just flush the gunk out, just make sure you then rinse it with with deionised water a couple times after the tap water rinse.

The problem being the ions in the water will cause the aluminium to corrode or they will deposit on the aluminium like limescale in a tea kettle, but this happens over time and under heat, so ten minutes in a cold engine is ok if it's flushed.

[Alex]

Yup. I've done that in the past as well.

[SafetyPaws]

Just picked up the distilled water in prep for tommorrow.

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

If it were me I would run a hose from the house and leave that in to flush it for as long as I liked if you believe you have a lot of crud in there.

Now you don't want to run the system with tap water, but it won't harm the system at all just being used to just flush the gunk out, just make sure you then rinse it with with deionised water a couple times after the tap water rinse.

The problem being the ions in the water will cause the aluminium to corrode or they will deposit on the aluminium like limescale in a tea kettle, but this happens over time and under heat, so ten minutes in a cold engine is ok if it's flushed.

So after all of the OEM coolant is drained i can feed the hose at the radiator cap and let it flow / draining away basically? It will escape from the 8mm bolt at headers, the 10 mm at the bottom and the resovoir all at same time then? So i have to keep buckets ready.

Then run distilled water for final run through with turning on the bike and riding it for 5 min then draining that then goes the coolant + airbubble removal correct?

[Alex]

Yup - the problem with the hose is that you will start to create quite a bit of waste water, and will need enough buckets to hold it. The drained coolant and that wastewater shouldn't be just flushed down the drain, and needs to be dropped off somewhere, which makes it somewhat cumbersome.

[SafetyPaws]

I flushed it out with a gallon of distiller till it ran clear. Then about another half filled a let it run. Going to do one more run with riding around before I fill with the coolant. I only had minimal spillage - on exhaust and a bit on engine underneath the header drain. How can I clean that up safety so nothing gets too hot and burns? Safe with the small amount I dripped on floor?

[mgentz]

It should just be water. ..you'll be fine

[SafetyPaws]

Ok ok - last one. I filled and checked for air bubbles and drove around for awhile a refilled. My dad checked how much was at the cap and said it was good. And that it needs to be able breathe and fluctuate. Its right at the bottom of the second opening, see pic.

Is that good or should I top it off a bit?

[dailowill]

According to the service manual, you're a bit low

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by dailowill

According to the service manual, you're a bit low

Thanks!

Edit: And thanks to everyone who commented and helped - I could not have done it without everyones feedback and suggestions.

[Motofool]

You are welcome