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Old August 29th, 2021, 06:37 PM   #8401
DannoXYZ
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Finally put finishing touches on pregen-in-boxes I got couple years ago. This one I really like and plan on keeping for while. So taking my time. Only problem thing it needed initially was new tank as original one too rusted to use.



Tank unfortunately, was perforated due to someone using too-long fairing bolt, fairing was badly cracked on other side and seat had holes. So I got seat re-covered, got replacement fairings which had minor cracks that was easily repaired with fibreglass. Finally got around to repairing tank by removing threaded bracket, brazing hole shut and re-attaching bracket with some spot-welds. Then re-painting.



Also painted fairing and put stickers on. Ahh... looks complete finally!!!



Sharp eyes may notice 300 rearsets for more modern look. Also new-gen sprocket cover to accommodate 16th sprocket. Also installed new-gen rear-end: swingarm, shock/linkage, brake, rear 17" wheel.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; August 29th, 2021 at 09:39 PM.
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Old August 29th, 2021, 07:44 PM   #8402
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WOW Well done Danno ! looks awesome !
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Old August 29th, 2021, 09:45 PM   #8403
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thanks Bob! It was quite basket case when I got it:




i think only thing left I want to do is install new-gen front 17" wheel when tyre wears out.
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Old August 29th, 2021, 11:07 PM   #8404
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LOL boy seeing boxes filled with parts brings back many memories !
I bought a $50.00 W1 650 Kawasaki many years ago that looked kind'a like that... it was a mess... I got it running about a week later and it was a fantastic bike. the W1 650 was a copy of the BSA in years gone by. it handled like a BSA
and was a fantastic ride till a 4x4 pulled out infront of me I was doing about 50mph and hit his front tire dead on my knee dented his fender by the hood and I flew about 30 ft before touching down and then sliding off the road.
after that one I said I know what a fly feels like when you swat them with a flyswatter ! it bent the forks badly but I straightened them between the trunk of an oak tree and a comealong ! but the impact broke the cage of one of the main bearings in the bottom end... I finally sold it to my neighbor several years later when it was apparent I was never going to get the money to fix it right.
...I've kicked myself in the tail many times for selling that bike ! but that is how it goes...
....
you did a real good job of fixing up that bike ! now put some miles on it and enjoy your many hours of labor !!!!
.....
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Old August 30th, 2021, 08:09 AM   #8405
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Yeah, it's awesome little commuter! Been using past 2-yrs to commute to S.F. (I work for tech start-up). Really saves on time, 30-35min vs 2.5-hrs by car! It actually gets better gas-mileage than my 2009 new-gen. Can go an entire week per tank vs. 4.5-days.
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Old August 30th, 2021, 08:21 AM   #8406
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Yeah, it's awesome little commuter! Been using past 2-yrs to commute to S.F. (I work for tech start-up). Really saves on time, 30-35min vs 2.5-hrs by car! It actually gets better gas-mileage than my 2009 new-gen. Can go an entire week per tank vs. 4.5-days.
Man, the 250 is a gem, isn't it?? That mpg is great and I really felt that the tune was overall better compared to the '09 my wife had back in the day (more comfortable too!)

Yesterday I took my '05 for a rip around the block. It's not perfect yet, I think I still have a little bit of crud to blow out of the carbs but it's getting there bit by bit.
Here's my problem: this thing is loud. I don't like loud, and it runs against my goal for this bike which is to fly under the radar. It has a full Yoshi system that I posted for trade in the Marketplace section, anyone have a set of stock pipes they care to trade for these?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...57#post1293457
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Old August 30th, 2021, 08:33 AM   #8407
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Ooooh ! I am tempted ! I have the stock pipes with a added muffler but also the stock muffler... (supposed to be much quiter ) are you interested ? their off a 2012 though dunno but I think they should fit.
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Old August 30th, 2021, 08:44 AM   #8408
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Ooooh ! I am tempted ! I have the stock pipes with a added muffler but also the stock muffler... (supposed to be much quiter ) are you interested ? their off a 2012 though dunno but I think they should fit.
Bob........
Man, I would Bob but I think the old to new gen systems were really different... perhaps someone with more knowledge can correct me here but I know the old '09 I had back in the day was a single side piece as opposed to the old 2 into 2 that I'm looking for. This Yoshi system is 2 into 2 as well, I'll get better pics up when I can. Really, if they fit I would prefer the new-gen as it's gotta be lighter than the old ones!

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Old August 30th, 2021, 08:54 AM   #8409
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Well, I know Mine is a 2 into 1 so I take it that is not what your looking for !...
ok no problem I would like to get 2 seperate pipes instead of the 2 into 1 simply because the engine would like it better ! LOL...
with this aftermarket muffler on it it is kind'a loud and I'm like you I don't like loud ! that is why I insisted on the old muffler she took off when I got the bike
so I do have it.... I haven't put it on yet to see how much quiter it is on it but it has got to be an improvement on the noise ! LOL.....
later ! Bob..........
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Old September 2nd, 2021, 12:14 AM   #8410
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I tore into the 2012 250R Ninja again today, took the side fairings off and started trying to figure out the "How to put on" part of the Sliders I got off Amazon.... sense they came with no instructions....
so I tried to follow the guys Post on this forum about putting those exact things on my bike.... however I ran into a snag right off the bat. the 2 piece bolt arangement they sent with the Kit doesn't fit in the recess it is supposed to fit in.... so I was left with 2 options,... either make a entirely new bolt 11" long or cut and piece the old one by adding a steel rod in the middle of it....
...I opted for making a new bolt, I cut a 11" piece of 1/2" rod and discovered it would not go through the frame bolt holes to hold the engine on with... so I had to reduce it's diameter... no problem I thought I have a lathe ! so I chucked it up in the lathe and put a center in one end and started trimming it down with the tailstock in place holding the far end.... and that's when I discovered my lathe isn't cutting parallel ...
fortionately for me it is wider at the tailstock end than at the chuck end so I could just move down about 3" and rtim the next section , and repeat till I have the entire rod to within the size I need....
Then came the "Hunt for the die" delema... I didn't want to single point thread this rod
because that's too technical, I just wanted to tap some threads on it and be done...
well, that turned out to be a bust because my chepo tap and die set had the markings on the stuff with laser etching or something, and now their completely unreadable !
so I gave up for the day and decided to think on it a while.....
my plan was to thread both ends and just put a nut on the ends of the rod...Easy peasy
! but it didn't work out that way....
....
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Old September 2nd, 2021, 05:32 AM   #8411
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... and that's when I discovered my lathe isn't cutting parallel ...
fortionately for me it is wider at the tailstock end than at the chuck end so I could just move down about 3" and rtim the next section , and repeat till I have the entire rod to within the size I need....
Your tailstock should have a fore-aft adjustment to allow you to correct that problem. On my Atlas it's two set screws, one front and one back. You loosen one and then tighten the other to make the adjustment. When they're tightened against each other it's locked into position. I'm sure a Logan has a similar way to align the tailstock.
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Old September 2nd, 2021, 01:46 PM   #8412
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Thanks Jim... it does ! I just need to get to it !... the lathe stopped turning last night as well... motor belt was loose... I gott'a spend some time on it and get it back into shape obviously ! LOL....Bob........
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 01:30 AM   #8413
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I got the Ninja all back together !
I finalized the sliders and trimmed the longer slider so it was closer to being correct
( it's only about 1/8" too long now..) in the proccess I trimmed off the bottom end by 1/4"
so the bolt fit completely into the bracket like it should and I was much happier with that!
.... so I continued to put it all back together and only have 2 bolts left over !
.... can't figure out where they go either as I've wracked my brain for a month now...
I always have 1 extra.... I added another today because it holds nothing anyway so I left it off the bike....
I think that one bolt goes under the headlight but I'm not positive !
.... but it ran fine this way before so I'm happy..... it's good enough for who it's for ! HAHAHAH
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 02:56 PM   #8414
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Trying to figure out why the bike wants to go when I put in gear. Replaced oem cable, steels and fibers. adjusters have a ton of slack. any ideas?
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 03:42 PM   #8415
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sounds like re assembly went wrong... that would be my guess... it happens
even by the best of us, just pull it apart and check the exploded diagram when re assembling it again.
....
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Old September 4th, 2021, 06:39 AM   #8416
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I got the Ninja 250R out of the shop this morning ( without letting it fall over)
and it was actually running kind 'a crappy it wasn't quite warm yet so I am hoping when it warms up it will run better... it kind 'a felt like one cylinder was weak again... and I thought I fixed that already.....
but I parked it in the back yard and wiped off some of the dust... and admired it several times today ! LOL... the sliders look ok so I guess I have no complaints about them
.... dunno How to post a pic so I won't... I thought I figured it out... but why is it sideways ???
LOL.... oh well.
Bob........
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Old September 4th, 2021, 12:14 PM   #8417
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That's annoying about iPhones from 2017. They don't actually rotate picture when you turn phone. But stores phone's rotation in "orientation bit" attribute in metadata. Then display apps are supposed to examine this metadata and rotate images accordingly. I always do minor cropping afterwards and make sure to rotate 4x to reset orientation bit so it displays correctly.

Nice valve-stem caps!!

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Old September 4th, 2021, 12:16 PM   #8418
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Bob, are you sure the bar-end sliders are sharp enough?
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Old September 4th, 2021, 02:27 PM   #8419
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LOL... those bar end doohickies are so when I fall they will skewer me easier than rip a hole with out sharp handle bar ends....
I have no idea why the owner put those on there ! ... I've had handle bars try to poke a hole in my leg and middle before but be that as it may....
they look Kool ! lol... the valve cap covers are strange, I snicker when I see them....
the Right fairing attachment point by the headlight is giving me grief... it has only one screw and that didn't want to suck it down tight for some reason...
Hate to think I have to pull the fairing off again just to see why it's not mating up flush.... it did last time ! .. Aurgh !
....
my lowering Kit just got here this morning... so I'll take the ninja back into the shop and see if I can put those things on..... ...another No instructions deal,
but I can hardly screw it UP !... theirs's just 4 pieces.. to replace the metal dog bones under the bike...... and their GREEN too....hahahahha
....
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Old September 4th, 2021, 02:37 PM   #8420
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And Thanks Danno for fixing that picture... I'll keep that in mind and rotate all my pictures to re-set that orientation bit... easy cure ! thanks !
those little "Hand grenades" valve cap covers are actually very high quality so I left them on there ! HAHAHAHA !
....
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Old September 6th, 2021, 05:25 AM   #8421
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I took the Lowered Ninja out for a quick spin this afternoon.... got about 3 miles from the house and remembered I forgot to grab my wallet... so I turned around and cut my ride short.... I did hit a bad bump bad enough to make the tire touch the inner fender well
in the rear.... that's not good !... but it was a big hanging bump ! there is a section on that road they do not maintain and it's bad gravel pot holes and bumps all over and you just can't miss all of them theirs so many ! even going slow it's bad !
.... but that was the only time it touched... I could hear it rub.... and I parked it and checked to make sure I didn't hurt anything... but the bike cleaned up and ran real crisp
but I was going to raise it a little bit... but after thinking about it I don't think I will
it's at the verge of being too tall now so I'ed rather not raise it any....
I'll just miss those bumps from now on Right ? HAHAHA!
Bob........
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Old September 6th, 2021, 10:49 AM   #8422
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what r/r to upgrade to??

Bob, could you just stiffen the preload a click in the back to minimize the chance of rubbing? Worth a shot...

So I took the '05 for a test run up Palomar today with a buddy of mine. This was the first time out on the open road and it was very informative. I rode 15 minutes down to his place and waited for him at the gas station. Saddled up and hit the starter: dead battery. I brought tools and a charger so plugged it in, got coffee, ate one of the muffins my wife made yesterday and by that time it fired right up. We made it through the canyons, up the mountain, it did great but I could tell it wasn't producing tons of voltage. I kept the rpms between 8-11k pretty much the whole time so I wouldn't get too low of a charge. I made it home (total trip was probably 3hrs) and it's sitting on charge now. Once it's fully charged I will diagnose what I assume will be a bad oem regulator.

So here is my question: does everybody go with the mosfet style on these still? Ghostt in the ninjawiki mentions a FH010 model r/r but I see that has been replaced with the FH020AA unit for sale on ebay here. Is this the one I should buy? I've done this job before but it has been several years. I used to own '90s Hondas and I'm all too familiar with the bad r/r's; I just want to make sure this is the right upgrade for our lil ninjettes.

Otherwise, the bike was an absolute blast! I couldn't go full HAM with it as the front springs and rear shock are really limiting my abilities but it will get there. It is so much more fun riding a slow bike fast!
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Old September 6th, 2021, 12:02 PM   #8423
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FH020AA is shunt circuit like original and runs stator at 100% full-time

SH775 is newer series circuit and only draws power from stator as needed to power headlights and ignition (just 20-25% of max). On many bikes that have problems with fried stators (Ducati, Aprilia, etc.), series RR saves having to replace stator every 3-4yrs. For racer like me, it's even more important for power-sapping it saves. Good for another 1-2mph top-speed! Better MPG on street bikes too. You can tell difference by touching it right after ride. Factory & FH020 will burn you! SH775 is cool to touch right after ride. Gonna install one in my VFR soon before OEM unit takes dump...

Used to be able to get same part as Polaris OEM #4012941 for dirt-cheap, $35 or so. But now many in aftermarket have caught on to this trick RR and have been buying it up. Grrr...

Can get ready-to-install kits here:
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/...-regulator.php
https://roadstercycle.com/
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Old September 6th, 2021, 01:27 PM   #8424
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FH020AA is shunt circuit like original and runs stator at 100% full-time

SH775 is newer series circuit and only draws power from stator as needed to power headlights and ignition (just 20-25% of max). On many bikes that have problems with fried stators (Ducati, Aprilia, etc.), series RR saves having to replace stator every 3-4yrs. For racer like me, it's even more important for power-sapping it saves. Good for another 1-2mph top-speed! Better MPG on street bikes too. You can tell difference by touching it right after ride. Factory & FH020 will burn you! SH775 is cool to touch right after ride. Gonna install one in my VFR soon before OEM unit takes dump...

Used to be able to get same part as Polaris OEM #4012941 for dirt-cheap, $35 or so. But now many in aftermarket have caught on to this trick RR and have been buying it up. Grrr...

Can get ready-to-install kits here:
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/...-regulator.php
https://roadstercycle.com/
Hmm, it sure looks like every site I find selling the FH020AA refers to them as mosfet style units. I've installed one of these on an old Shadow I had in the past and it was a mosfet (I think it was the 020 model but I'm not sure) and even the Roadstercycle site says this. They also suggest it for stock bikes with stock lights which is what I have. I'm not opposed to the newer SH775 but it doesn't look like it's recommended for what I intend to use mine for.

I have never had the experience of needing to replace a stator every 3-4 years, and I thought the mosfet r/r was a good option for stator and overall charging system health. Of course, I would love to hear if new information has come to light, but from those sites you listed it looks like I should be ordering a FH020AA... please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 01:41 PM   #8425
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You can read the pros and cons of a series (pass) regulator vs. a shunt regulator from various sources on the web. It sounds bad to have a shunt regulator shorting the alternator's output to ground, but it's a permanent magnet alternator. When its output is shorted to ground, very little power is actually produced, since power = Volts x Amps and volts is near zero at that time. Since it's a PM alternator, the output current is limited even when shorted.

I manufacture electronics for the old Kawasaki triples, and one of my products is a shunt regulator. I have a test rig that has a variable speed motor driving an H2 alternator. Way back when I started I found that when the alternator output is shorted, it's very easy to drive with the motor, and doesn't get hot. My regulators are a switching type that either shorts the output to ground or lets it all through, switched at a high speed so the output is smooth. Danno is right that the regulator itself gets somewhat warm because of the voltage drops in the diodes in it, but it's designed to handle that. I actually use big Schottky diodes that only drop about 0.4 volts in this application, compared to the 3/4 volt or so that a silicon diode drops.

It's interesting that some racers who don't need 12VDC on their bikes actually permanently short the alternator output to effectively take it out of the system and reduce engine power loss without having to modify the alternator.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 02:07 PM   #8426
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Bob, could you just stiffen the preload a click in the back to minimize the chance of rubbing? Worth a shot...
...
great Idea ! I thought of that last night as well.... "great minds run in the same track!" LOL......
i might give it a shot if it becomes a problem...
thanks !
Bob.......
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Old September 6th, 2021, 04:20 PM   #8427
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Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Hmm, it sure looks like every site I find selling the FH020AA refers to them as mosfet style units. I've installed one of these on an old Shadow I had in the past and it was a mosfet (I think it was the 020 model but I'm not sure) and even the Roadstercycle site says this. They also suggest it for stock bikes with stock lights which is what I have. I'm not opposed to the newer SH775 but it doesn't look like it's recommended for what I intend to use mine for.

I have never had the experience of needing to replace a stator every 3-4 years, and I thought the mosfet r/r was a good option for stator and overall charging system health. Of course, I would love to hear if new information has come to light, but from those sites you listed it looks like I should be ordering a FH020AA... please correct me if I'm wrong.
MOSFET is physical construction of components used. Shunt/series is type of circuit you arrange the MOSFET components into.

Kinda like newsprint paper vs. types of articles written on it. You can have white or yellow newspaper with English or French articles for 4 possible combinations.

1. SCR-shunt
2. MOSFET-shunt
3. SCR-series
4. MOSFET-series

Our bikes don't have any issues with stator or RR really. The ones with more critical issues adopted MOSFET-shunt style over 15-yrs ago. Now they've moved onto series as even better alternative about 5-yrs ago.

There's some misconceptions that 1st started on Aprilia forums while back that I'm doing instrumented testing to clarify. Might be ready in couple months. Looking for dual-channel current datalogger, but may just do it manually.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 04:30 PM   #8428
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You can read the pros and cons of a series (pass) regulator vs. a shunt regulator from various sources on the web. It sounds bad to have a shunt regulator shorting the alternator's output to ground, but it's a permanent magnet alternator. When its output is shorted to ground, very little power is actually produced, since power = Volts x Amps and volts is near zero at that time. Since it's a PM alternator, the output current is limited even when shorted.
This is only true if you short AC coils to ground. However in way circuit is arranged, AC coil goes through rectifier first. Then output of rectifier is grounded, not the coil. So AC coil is never shorted to ground. In which case, AC coils are loaded 100% at all times.



This can be verified easily via temp-probes on stator-cover.
1. Regardless of load, stator is full-temp regardless if bike is idling or driving 300w lights.
2. However, RR is hotter at idle (dumping 250w to ground) and cooler when driving 300w lights (dumping 0w).

Also notice that shunt-circuit RR uses linear-regulator that divides voltage, not current.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 04:50 PM   #8429
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This is only true if you short AC coils to ground. However in way circuit is arranged, AC coil goes through rectifier first. Then output of rectifier is grounded, not the coil. So AC coil is never shorted to ground. In which case, AC coils are loaded 100% at all times.
Shorting the output of the bridge is almost the same as shorting the AC. The only difference is the 0.4v Schottky diode drop.

Quote:
Also notice that shunt-circuit RR uses linear-regulator that divides voltage, not current.
As I said above, the ones I build are switching, but are shunt regulators. They either fully short via a big HexFET or they let full current though. All my statements about heat, etc., have been verified on my test bench (motorized PM alternator).

That stator above is burned in only one area, as if one coil had a shorted turn, got hot and failed, and heated up the nearby coils to some extent.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 05:26 PM   #8430
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Shorting the output of the bridge is almost the same as shorting the AC. The only difference is the 0.4v Schottky diode drop.



As I said above, the ones I build are switching, but are shunt regulators. They either fully short via a big HexFET or they let full current though. All my statements about heat, etc., have been verified on my test bench (motorized PM alternator).

That stator above is burned in only one area, as if one coil had a shorted turn, got hot and failed, and heated up the nearby coils to some extent.
Yours are obviously better design and not same as RR in our bikes. On OEM RR, current through shunt is always high. Total of output + shunt is always around 20amps regardless of load.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 05:35 PM   #8431
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Yours are obviously better design and not same as RR in our bikes. On OEM RR, current through shunt is always high. Total of output + shunt is always around 20amps regardless of load.
It's probably the age-old design with three diodes and an SCR in a bridge, and the SCR is triggered by a zener so it shorts half-waves at a time as needed. That should behave a lot like mine, with current either fully shorted or fully allowed through as needed. I have not tested that type as much as the ones I build though.
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Old September 6th, 2021, 05:38 PM   #8432
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Crap, all this sounds like I need to drop $180 on a r/r when I really need to spend that money on suspension. I'd rather just carry my charger
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Old September 7th, 2021, 10:00 AM   #8433
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SH775 is newer series circuit and only draws power from stator as needed to power headlights and ignition (just 20-25% of max). On many bikes that have problems with fried stators (Ducati, Aprilia, etc.), series RR saves having to replace stator every 3-4yrs. For racer like me, it's even more important for power-sapping it saves. Good for another 1-2mph top-speed! Better MPG on street bikes too. You can tell difference by touching it right after ride. Factory & FH020 will burn you! SH775 is cool to touch right after ride. Gonna install one in my VFR soon before OEM unit takes dump...
As I'm looking into these units it looks like the 775 would not be sufficient for our high-revving 250s as it has rpm limitations of 10k. I've only put 100 miles on this bike and I'm past that quite often... the 847 is good to 14k so I have a little insurance there. Is my concern warranted?
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Old September 7th, 2021, 12:57 PM   #8434
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Misconception is it's rev-limited. There's no RPM signal going to RR, so they have no idea what revs are. Real limitation is AC voltage that needs to be rectified and SH775 is limited to about 65 VAC or so. Stator-output rises with RPM (~15v @ idle to 60-100 VAC @ redline). Other unit can go up to 85-110 VAC. But is also time-dependent on how much you're out of range as well. Unless you're at redline all time, I wouldn't worry about it.

Easy way to test is measure AC output on pair of yellow-wires coming out of stator. Then rev engine up to range you'll use most. I've had SH775 on my race-bike for 5-years now without any issues at 13500 rpm redline. I got Polaris RR out of junkyard for $20. Wiring-kit from Eastern Beaver for $20 or so.

Here's video on how to identify genuine Shindengen RR: https://youtu.be/TYxtCC330Xg
Problems are bigger with shunt-type circuits since they have to pass through a lot of current. Clones/copies of these will fail often due to load. I haven't heard as much problems with clones/copies of series units as this circuit runs much, much cooler.

I'm working on buck/boost switching regulator, should be even more efficient than series RR with flatter adjustable regulation. Kinda combo best of both worlds when using Y or W stator windings.

How have you tested and confirmed you've got RR issues?
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Old September 7th, 2021, 02:04 PM   #8435
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I hope to confirm the r/r is the culprit tonight after work. All I've done so far is confirm that my voltage doesn't get over 12.4v regardless of the rpm, so I suspect r/r failure. I still need to check the unit between the diodes, I just didn't get a chance yesterday. I'm pretty confident in the battery, which would just leave the stator if the r/r actually does check out tonight.
We will see.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 10:44 AM   #8436
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also verify AC output at stator yellow wires. If AC output low, RR can’t make power out of nothing. Also measure continuity of stators to ground to make sure they’re not fried.

I may have extra RR I can send you, might be fore new-gen though
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Old September 8th, 2021, 11:19 AM   #8437
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Danno, bike looks great! I love that you took the basket-case and got her back into running condition.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 11:25 AM   #8438
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also verify AC output at stator yellow wires. If AC output low, RR can’t make power out of nothing. Also measure continuity of stators to ground to make sure they’re not fried.

I may have extra RR I can send you, might be fore new-gen though
Good looking out Danno, will do. I had to take care of my wife's car last night so garage-time didn't allow for checking out the lil 250. Fortunately Singh2jz had an extra r/r he's chucking in the box of mufflers so I will have a spare oem piece to try out in the time being. If it charges the battery I will just hook up a volt gauge so I can monitor what's happening, then upgrade the system when it eventually fails again.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 12:56 PM   #8439
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Also check yellow three wire connectors for stator. Common source of corrosion and burning due to full-power going through it full-time. There are connector kits for replacing connector, but they use exact same bare brass un-sealed connector as stock, so is temporary fix. Replacement will eventually corrode, overheat and burn through just like original.

Typical permanent solution is cut off connector and solder wires straight across. Tied with western-union/linesman splice, soldered and adhesive shrink-wrap of course.




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Old September 16th, 2021, 04:37 PM   #8440
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I checked this out a week or so ago; wiring all looked good but the r/r unit itself tested bad. I used rmstator's youtube channel as a go-by and I had OL on everything , I made sure my multimeter was working too. Oh well, Singh2jz is hooking me up with a spare r/r he had sitting around. I'll run that till I feel like dropping cash on the upgrade. This is a second bike for now so it's not getting a lot of new parts thrown at it all at once.
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