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Old April 15th, 2009, 10:06 PM   #41
Nickds7
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Warm or cold? I think I better run out and check... I think there may be too much oil in my 250...I've ridden it quite a bit without any troubles...
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Old April 15th, 2009, 10:10 PM   #42
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Start the engine

run engine for a few minutes then turn off. let sit for a few minutes.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 10:34 PM   #43
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Ok, looks like im safe, I'm at the top line. So what does overfilling the motor do exactly?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 10:41 PM   #44
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It can build up pressure in the crankcase and lead to seal failures. It can also froth the oil from the crank being too submersed in oil. just keep it between those two lines on the sight glass.

also, check your oil frequently until you get a good feel on how much oil your bike eats. The high revving nature of the 250 engine can lead to the oil level dropping if you don't pay attention. I've noticed less oil level fluctuation after I switched to a full synthetic oil.
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Old April 17th, 2009, 09:31 PM   #45
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Another question, I'm sure others have wondered this too...if your torque wrench only has 1lb increments is it best to do 14ft-lbs or 15ft-lbs? Or neither?
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Old April 17th, 2009, 09:40 PM   #46
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either/or... Torque wrenches are never 100% accurate anyway, so anything around the spec is close enough. It's still much better than doing it by "feel".

there are instances where getting the torque accurate to a gnat's ass is crucial... this isn't one of them.
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Old April 18th, 2009, 08:37 PM   #47
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Thanks for the great DIY, Kelly!

I've always known oil changes were no big deal, but this was the first I've ever done... Man, I could have saved myself so much money in the past by doing these myself.

The only thing that worries me a little is that 14.5 ft. lbs feels a whole lot looser than the factory bolt did, but since I've got no leaks and can't loosen the bolts without at least a little effort I assume I'm good.
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Old April 18th, 2009, 08:46 PM   #48
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yeah, it's a great feeling saving money, but the real neat part about this is the satisfaction that you did it and (hopefully) done right. If it fails, you have no one to blame but yourself.

the torque value might seem a bit low, but I bet with a few heat cycles, the next time you go to take off that bolt it won't feel as loose. Besides, you are simply pushing that plate up with that bolt so the rubber o-ring can seal. Traditionally, you don't want to over torque or makes things so tight that it distorts and/or smashes the seal and keep it from doing it's job.

hopefully your torque wrench is reasonably accurate.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 06:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
I've noticed less oil level fluctuation after I switched to a full synthetic oil.
Have you noticed any fluctuation on full synthetic? It's been about ~1300 miles since I switched to full synthetic and the oil level hasnt dropped at all.

I also didnt notice any before the switch.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 06:25 PM   #50
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the level used to drop before the switch to synthetic. after the switch not at all. not saying it was due to the synthetic... could have been due to break in, but it has stayed the same since. Still, I keep a close eye on the oil level.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:27 PM   #51
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ok so this may seem like a dumb question

but do i have to use motorcycle specific oil or can i use regular oil?
this is my first bike and first oil change for it so i have no clue lol
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:35 PM   #52
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you want to use motorcycle oil, as the same oil that is in the engine lubricates the transmission, and motorcycle oil is designed for this where other oils are not.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:38 PM   #53
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ok cool, so i guess i have to go to a cycle gear or to a the dealership then huh?
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:39 PM   #54
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I just picked some up at Auto Zone tonight, and you can also get it at Walmart
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:47 PM   #55
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really...hmm didnt know that

k thanks for the help!
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 11:34 PM   #56
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I've got one question about oil changes:

What do you do with the old oil? One shouldn't (and may not, in most civilized countries) just chuck it away somewhere, right? Where can one typically get the old oil disposed of properly? I know most petrol stations do oil changes, so I guess they can dispose of it, or?
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 11:36 PM   #57
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Most Kragens, AutoZone, and other car parts places like that will collect used oil. Usually for free.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 09:29 PM   #58
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I went to the local motorcycle store and picked up some oil:



and a kawasaki oil filter.

funny thing about the kawi filter is that it doesn't include o-rings. just the filter. It's my first change at 600 miles so it should be ok. :shrugs:

bike is currently downstairs draining. about to attack the oil filter soon once I let it do it's thing.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 10:05 PM   #59
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yeah, you gotta buy the o-rings separately if you get the kawi filter. i forget how much they cost, but i think it was about $20 for the 2. crazy!!
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Old May 7th, 2009, 10:38 PM   #60
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lols. i think the filter itself was around $12 from the dealer. what a rip IMO.

next change i'm going with the K&n. i think it's around 14 shipped from ebay.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:30 AM   #61
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kkim, what else would you advise be done for 600 mile oil change?
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Old May 8th, 2009, 09:05 AM   #62
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Quote:
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lols. i think the filter itself was around $12 from the dealer. what a rip IMO.

next change i'm going with the K&n. i think it's around 14 shipped from ebay.
I think I paid $15 for my Kawasaki filters from a local dealership. None of my local auto-parts stores carry motorcycle specific oil filters, I'd have to have them order it for me.

You can find the K&N filters for $6.99 from motorcycle-superstore.com. The shipping for my complete order was $7, but I ordered 3 filters plus a bunch of other small items.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 11:31 AM   #63
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what else would you advise be done for 600 mile oil change?
the checklist for what needs to be done is in your owner's manual.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 11:35 AM   #64
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None of my local auto-parts stores carry motorcycle specific oil filters, I'd have to have them order it for me.

You can find the K&N filters for $6.99 from motorcycle-superstore.com. The shipping for my complete order was $7, but I ordered 3 filters plus a bunch of other small items.
I order my WIX filters from the local auto parts store as they don't carry those model filters on a regular basis. They usually get them in a day or two. Like you, I order 2-3 at a time so I have some on hand for the next oil change.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 12:24 PM   #65
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hmmmm, i was planning on doing an oil/filter change tonight...but I bought oem filters. the girl at the counter tried to tell me to replace teh crush washer and drain bolt every oil change, but didn't mention anything about the o-ring.....maybe i should check that
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Old May 8th, 2009, 12:27 PM   #66
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how many miles do you have now?
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Old May 8th, 2009, 12:32 PM   #67
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1300km....done several oil changes but this will be my first new filter
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Old May 8th, 2009, 02:28 PM   #68
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You should be okay reusing the o rings, but try to make it a habit to change them at every oil change after that.

I won't say anything about not changing the filter when you changed the oil.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 04:35 PM   #69
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Nice write-up
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Old May 8th, 2009, 04:44 PM   #70
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lol... aloha, shorty!! I invited you to ninjette a loooog time ago so you could bring your excellent writeup over to share with the forum. when you didn't respond, I went ahead and did this very basic writeup. nowhere as good as yours, but it serves a purpose.

good to have you here.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 05:28 PM   #71
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Your write-up is great. Sorry it took so long to get here, but I'm glad I finally made it. The site looks good.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 06:11 PM   #72
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Hey everyone. Just wanted to let you know, since everyone seems to be struggling to find a good deal on filters, that on amazon you they're selling 2 Purolator filters for about $8. Yes, two of them. I've never heard of any issues with Purolator filters and they come with the o-rings. Add a cd or something else to your order and you've got free shipping through amazon.

Also, I got a quick question. That little o-ring, how the hell do you get the cap over it? I put it in the groove, oiled it up, and try as might I couldn't get the cap piece over it. I ended up reusing the old o-ring for this change, but next time, I gotta replace it. What gives?
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Old May 8th, 2009, 07:45 PM   #73
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lol... that may be a reason to stay away from Purolator filters.

picture of the O- ring?
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Old May 8th, 2009, 07:55 PM   #74
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haha. Nah, they're fine, and I read up on a few reviews. I didn't take any pictures. The big o-ring was spot on in fitment. The small o-rings looked identical and it fit fine in the groove and all. It just seemed to be thicker by some infinitesimal amount and, though I came close, I couldn't force that cover over the o-ring. I was simply wondering if that was the case with all of them or just my experience. I didn't try the o-ring that came with the second filter I bought, but I doubt that'll be different. I'll figure something out next time I change the oil.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:00 PM   #75
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It does take a little bit of force to pop the center portion on over that small o ring.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:01 PM   #76
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Okay, so at least I know it's not a completely defective piece of rubber.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:12 PM   #77
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the girl at the counter tried to tell me to replace teh crush washer and drain bolt every oil change...
back up... i know about changing the crush washer, but i have never heard about having to change the drain plug bolt every change too. i would not think that is necessary. any other input on this?
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:40 PM   #78
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no need to change the drain bolt/plug at every oil change, only the crush washer.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 06:54 AM   #79
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yea, my friends and my dealer said the drain bolt is not something I need to change as long as i use proper torque.
and yes kelly, I will be changing the filter every oil change from now on, but was told since i did so many in the break in not to worry about the filter and just do the oil.
I really don't see why the o-ring needs to be changed every time though...it should be able to last and seal just fine....but i will anyways i guess
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Old May 11th, 2009, 10:18 PM   #80
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thanks

I did my first oil change on my bike tonight. Thanks Kkim for the help. I didn't change the crush washer on the drain bolt/plug though. I didn't know I needed to. Where and what kind do you buy to replace that? Just any one that will fit or is there a special kind I need to get?
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