January 23rd, 2013, 08:19 AM | #81 | |
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from what i gather, the velocity is important for several reasons the carbs need it to atomize fuel well. it optimizes intake harmonics. it helps throttle response.
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January 23rd, 2013, 08:24 AM | #82 |
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With nitrous I can add as much hp as needed. And probubly more. With the Wizards of nitrous system I have very consistent performance from the nitrous. Next week I will see how it does. I will be putting 30 hp on a 30 hp motor. The turbo guys got 54hp in indoninesia. I want to beat that.
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January 23rd, 2013, 10:08 AM | #83 | |
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Turbo, DAH! Sometimes i am so stupid, i guess when i think motorcycle i just don't think turbo or supercharged. One would think i would of put two and two together though considering i have a tubrocharged car Thanks for making me realize why my original post seemed like such a good idea... because it is and someone already figured it out. |
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January 23rd, 2013, 10:34 AM | #84 |
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Turbo needs fuel injection. And nitrous does not. But at this stage the clutch is the problem not the power adder
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Top speed 123.369mph. Ohio mile Worlds fastest 250 ninja Last futzed with by Racer x; January 23rd, 2013 at 01:07 PM. |
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January 23rd, 2013, 10:40 AM | #85 |
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it is awesome, but on a bike its a much more challenging install, due to space and control requirements.
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January 23rd, 2013, 04:16 PM | #86 |
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I am thinking about a turbo. Not so much for the boost .But when you try to stuff a lot of nitrous into a little engine it backs up. A turbo would be like a one way valve. always moving the entire mixture in one direction. And because I am using it with nitrous and ethanol with low boost I will not have to use an inter cooler.
I got a little more done on the head. Final shaping and now I just have to work out the little pits and scratches head polish 001.jpg head polish 002.jpg head polish 003.jpg
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January 23rd, 2013, 04:41 PM | #87 |
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This is the other side of the polished sandwich. The pistons. This is an old piston with a scuff side I was experimenting on. But the idea is to remove all the sharp edges. Anything that can heat up.
Now stay with me. The pistons have a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio and I removed some of the top. So it is less than 12.5to1. But I don't know how much. I not only bored the block 4mm to fit the larger pistons I removed .010 from the top of the block. so the compression goes back up.I dont know how much. But I removed some of the material from the head. SO it goes back down. I started with 12.5 and I guess I still have 12to1 compression. Also by removing the top of the block the head comes down.The distance from the crank to the cam is shorter. The slack in the cam chain is taken up by the tensioner, But it rolls the cams in a retarding direction. Opening and closing them later. This is better for top end power. It opens the exhaust valve sooner. pistons 001.jpg pistons 004.jpg pistons 011.jpg
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January 23rd, 2013, 07:15 PM | #88 |
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Did you just say your camshaft is retarded.
Nice work on the pistons. I thought you needed those groves in the top? With cylinder heads it is all about the velocity of flow. Not how much or how big |
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January 23rd, 2013, 07:29 PM | #89 |
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Wait I shouldn't say how much, because CFM gains are what you are looking for. The bigger you make the ports the slower the speed of the air so your CFM could actually be worse than a set of smaller ports.
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January 23rd, 2013, 07:39 PM | #90 |
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Yes the whole thing is a retarded.
The groves in the top of the piston are for valve clearance. They are still there just all the metal around them is gone and I smoothed out the whole piston. Yes I only clean up the intake ports. And put that swearl pattern on the walls. The exhaust I will open up to match my header. Stock port is 26mm and I will open it up to about 30
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Top speed 123.369mph. Ohio mile Worlds fastest 250 ninja Last futzed with by Racer x; January 25th, 2013 at 07:10 PM. |
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January 25th, 2013, 05:32 PM | #91 |
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I have one exhaust port opened up .
The first photo is the stock port. The second is the cleaned up one. head work 009.jpg head work 010.jpg
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January 25th, 2013, 05:38 PM | #92 | |
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Quote:
eric actually has a flowbench built into his eyes!
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January 25th, 2013, 07:09 PM | #93 |
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In the exhaust port there seems to be a little venture. A small lump designed to pull the air out of the air injection port that comes up out of the valve cover. I remove that. First because I don't have air injection. And because with nitrous I need MAX flow.
For the intake I just do a little clean up. But hog out the exhaust.
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January 25th, 2013, 07:14 PM | #94 |
wat
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is there any point to having the ex. air injection if you don't care about emission control?
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January 25th, 2013, 08:00 PM | #95 | |
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Eric where did you stick that light, I'm having trouble getting photo's of the exhaust ports. Got plenty of the intake. |
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January 25th, 2013, 10:00 PM | #96 |
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The Air injection is for the cataletic converter. I just layed the light on the head.
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January 26th, 2013, 12:02 AM | #97 |
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January 28th, 2013, 08:41 AM | #98 |
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This is the finished head. Now I just have to put it together and adjust the valves
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January 28th, 2013, 08:56 AM | #99 |
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Looking Good!
Would there be any gains for you if you used the Ninja 500 carbs?
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January 28th, 2013, 09:06 AM | #100 |
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I don't want to use cv carbs at all. But I don't think the 500 cabs will fit. I think they are too wide.
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January 28th, 2013, 05:50 PM | #101 |
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What do you use to scrap the carbon off the bowl and pistons? Also, do you just use regular aluminium polish?
How many angles you have cut into your valve seat. Theres 3 for the valve itself, any extra? Dropped my cylinder off today, old mate is going to try a 5 angle seat job. Depends how much room there is. |
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January 28th, 2013, 07:03 PM | #102 |
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I use a Dremel to do the head. The little brushes are great. If I am cleaning old pistons I would use chemicals like acid and a scotch bright.
The head comes with a three angle cut. I have the tools to do four of the six cuts. I just do the mating surface. After that I hand lap the valves and vacuum test each set. After that I will adjust the valve clearance.
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January 29th, 2013, 04:03 AM | #103 |
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So wait, you don't use any polishing compound along with the dremel on the bowls or pistons?
All this polishing has got me in the mood |
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January 29th, 2013, 08:02 AM | #105 |
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Racer X, When we used to build nitrous car engines I would build the bottom end similar to a super charged engine (lower compression and less cam overlap etc.). You seem to lean toward the higher compression pistons, are you worried at all about the cylinder pressure your going to expierience with the higher levels of nitrous you plan to run?
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January 29th, 2013, 09:14 AM | #106 |
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Yes. But only about the bolts stretching in the case. I have ARP studs for my other motor. So far I am not having problems. But I go little steps at a time. Nitrous loves compression. As long as you can control detonation or preignition.
This new engine will be down from 12.5 to 12.0 to give a little more room in the chamber.
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January 29th, 2013, 09:33 AM | #107 | |
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Quote:
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January 29th, 2013, 11:24 AM | #108 |
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Yes a flat piston would be better. And I have flattened the piston as much as possible. But I need 200 psi of compression to get decent power without nitrous.
I also don't want to have custom pistons made at this stage. Nitrous has come a long way. Wizards of Nitrous has taken nitrous to the next level. Because of the control and consistent performance of the system I can push the motor to its limit. The problems I have had relate to the other guy systems being inconsistent in the mixture.
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January 30th, 2013, 05:33 AM | #109 |
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wouldn't flattening the piston weaken it structurally? I know you said your nos system is good now, but doesn't it worry you that your piston is not as strong as the engineers designed?
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January 30th, 2013, 05:43 AM | #110 |
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With the 5 angle seat job. They add another angle before and after the actual valve seat. So your valve still has 3 angles 32, 45, 67.5; they put say a 20 degree angle before and a 75 degree after, basically smoothing out the entrance and exit of the valve. So you have 20,32,45,67.5,75; Your valve touches the three middles one.
If you have the tools to do the cuts yourself I will get back to you with the angles they use on my head. |
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January 30th, 2013, 05:56 AM | #111 | |
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January 30th, 2013, 06:30 AM | #112 |
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January 31st, 2013, 04:59 AM | #113 |
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I ran the first engine on the dyno. I really can't say I am thrilled. I had 34 hp from my other engine and the big bore only went to 32. I did use a different dyno. New and better. But I was hoping for more.
The engine handled a 20 shot of nitrous on over twenty pulls making over 50 hp and still making 31 at the end of the day. I am going to change back to a 2 into 1 exhaust and see what happens.
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January 31st, 2013, 05:01 AM | #114 |
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I just run my cutters along the 45 to make it perfect. Then new valves lap in and seal up nicely.
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January 31st, 2013, 08:52 AM | #115 | |
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Interesting, I would have expected better numbers.
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January 31st, 2013, 09:02 AM | #116 |
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The engine was only down 2 or 3 but I was hoping to get close to 40 with a 12.5 to 1 big bore. I was very happy with the 16 ft lb of torque. I am going to go through the engine and change the exhaust.
The nitrous was perfect. It was jetted for 20 hp and it did just that.
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January 31st, 2013, 09:28 AM | #117 |
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what fuel did you use for the dyno run?
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January 31st, 2013, 10:27 AM | #118 |
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Mostly rocket 110 but it was cut with 115 so that is not a great thing. The initial runs used 110.
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February 1st, 2013, 07:42 AM | #119 |
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How much does this nitrous cost you? 20 pulls!
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February 1st, 2013, 08:35 AM | #120 |
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Nitrous is five dollars a pound. I usen about 10 lb maybe during the day. But once it is tuned. A twenty lb bottle last all season.
If you factor in nitrous 1 lb. And race gas at 10 dollars a gallon. Plus two spark plugs . Each run at the track cost about 25 dollars.
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