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Old November 10th, 2012, 08:28 AM   #1
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Flush Mount Turn Signal DIY

This is my first attempt at a narrated and edited video. I thought I would make a DIY for installing Flush Mount turn signals.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Hope it helps.

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Old November 10th, 2012, 12:23 PM   #2
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this is a very good tutorial, great work.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 03:22 PM   #3
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Thanks. I noticed a few people were just bolting them on without adapter plates, or just sticking them on with something, but they end up looking like crap. So I decided to make decent adapter plates.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 08:37 PM   #4
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Thanks. I noticed a few people were just bolting them on without adapter plates, or just sticking them on with something, but they end up looking like crap. So I decided to make decent adapter plates.
Make a few more and sell 'em here and on eBay. Those signals certainly look popular enough!
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Old November 10th, 2012, 09:12 PM   #5
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Make a few more and sell 'em here and on eBay. Those signals certainly look popular enough!
Tempting, but what I don't understand is why manufacturers don't make signals that just bolt up. There is at least one the bolts up to the newgen, but none that I could find for the pregen.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 09:16 PM   #6
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Tempting, but what I don't understand is why manufacturers don't make signals that just bolt up. There is at least one the bolts up to the newgen, but none that I could find for the pregen.
The one's that bolt up to the newgen are still generics. The only aftermarket signals I've ever seen that weren't generic were OEM replica or "euro-style" lens replacements and such. It's hard to find bike-specific turn signals no matter what the bike.

Even the color-matched Asian Cycle flushmounts were generics that required drilling.

The 650R/ZX14 wedge-style ones are used on a lot of Kawasaki's bikes and I've seen "flush" lenses for those in addition to complete OEM replicas and tinted lenses, but that's the closest I've ever seen and a "replica" of the OEM style is hardly what most people want to replace stalky signals with.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 10:58 PM   #7
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Take advantage of those 2 filament bulbs.

Wire the dim filament in with the gauge cluster or tail light. You'll end up with running lights and turn signals. Much more visible at night, and well worth the 20 minutes it will take to cut, splice, and solder.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 11:17 PM   #8
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You have a godly voice sir.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 02:07 AM   #9
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You have an awesome speaking voice! Do more DIYs, very clear and easy to understand and follow.

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Take advantage of those 2 filament bulbs.

Wire the dim filament in with the gauge cluster or tail light. You'll end up with running lights and turn signals. Much more visible at night, and well worth the 20 minutes it will take to cut, splice, and solder.
Ok, lame question... On a new gen, any idea how to do this? I have a flush mount that is dual filament but I'm simply ignoring the spare wire. Not even sure where to look for my gauge cluster light wire or how to go about hooking it up that won't be a pain to undo any time I want to remove the side fairing. :blink: it'd be cool to have running lights though!
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Old November 11th, 2012, 05:10 AM   #10
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Take advantage of those 2 filament bulbs.
I don't do enough night riding to make it worthwhile. But I was thinking about wiring them together to make it a little brighter.

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You have a godly voice sir.
LOL, that's the first time anybody has described it that way.

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You have an awesome speaking voice! Do more DIYs, very clear and easy to understand and follow.
Thanks. I'll probably do more of them later on.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 10:02 AM   #11
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D, it's still a good idea for visibility on foggy mornings or rainy days etc. I don't ride at night that often, but I figured it was a good idea for all the other times I'm riding. It makes me distinguishable as a motorcycle from the front, rather than just a car with a missing headlight. I think that's why many new sport bikes have started doing those corner markers in the edges of the headlight.

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I have a flush mount that is dual filament but I'm simply ignoring the spare wire. Not even sure where to look for my gauge cluster light wire or how to go about hooking it up that won't be a pain to undo any time I want to remove the side fairing. :blink: it'd be cool to have running lights though!
You'll need to find wiring that is switched with the ignition. So the running light in the tail light, or the license plate light, or the gauge cluster lights, etc.

Then you'll want to splice into the hot wire (red usually) and add wires that will lead to that 3rd wire on the turn signals. There's already a common ground on the turn signals, so no biggie there. If you add some quick-disconnects, it will be just as easy to disconnect as it currently is; only difference is you'll have to disconnect 3 wires instead of 2. Do it! It will be easy and running lights improve your visibility at night, dawn, and dusk. I have turn signals that are single filament with LED's in them (ridiculously bright and overpriced ones from superbrightleds.com ) and I wired in some relays to make them running lights that flash when my turn signals are used. I think it was well worth my time.

Check out how visible they are, even in a horribly out of focus picture:


and from the side:


Sorry for pic whoring in your thread D
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Old November 11th, 2012, 12:10 PM   #12
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Check out how visible they are, even in a horribly out of focus picture:
...
Sorry for pic whoring in your thread D
No problem. Now post one of it in the bright sun.
Even the incandescents have trouble in bright Florida sunlight.
No offense, but I don't trust night photos of LED lights.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 01:06 PM   #13
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Just as bright as the oem lights, but they're more visible from the sides.

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Old November 11th, 2012, 02:48 PM   #14
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I went to the superbrightleds.com and the brightest 1156 bulb they had was 220 lumens. That's about half the lumens of a standard bulb which is about 402 lumens. I want to replace all my bulbs on the 2007 with leds, but I don't want to do it if they aren't going to be as bright as the real bulbs.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 07:09 PM   #15
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You'll need to find wiring that is switched with the ignition. So the running light in the tail light, or the license plate light, or the gauge cluster lights, etc.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow. My repair is in pause at the moment awaiting FedEx so I have tinker time before they get here.
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Old November 15th, 2012, 11:21 AM   #16
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Another daytime shot I found on my computer for you n4mwd:


again, the numbers may be smaller, but they really seem just as bright to me in daylight as the standard bulbs. Maybe they're not, idk. But I've not had issues with people not seeing my turn signals during the day, and at night, people definitely see me better because they're wired as running lights.

Notice that I was responsible and at least attempted to control the glare output from my HID setup. It worked for the most part. I still did a projector retrofit though
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Old November 15th, 2012, 02:42 PM   #17
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No offense, but those photos are daytime photos and not what a Florida cracker would call daylight. Both looked to be in the shade. Anyhow, they still look good for running lights. Do you have a photo of the actual turn signal operating in daylight?
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Old November 15th, 2012, 03:13 PM   #18
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@n4mwd ah, you folk in Florida just hog all the sunshine from the rest of the country.

Though, question for ya @choneofakind (or whomever), on my flush mount I have three wires. Red, black, and black/white. I've figured out the black is ground, red is blinker, and black/white is running light.

Right now I have red and black wired into the existing turn signal plug with the black/white hanging loose. If I clip the black/white straight to the battery, the bright filiment comes on solid and the dimmer one blinks really fast with the switch. The solid running light drowns out the blinker.

Any ideas?
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Old November 15th, 2012, 03:56 PM   #19
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@n4mwd ah, you folk in Florida just hog all the sunshine from the rest of the country.
You're from Nevada and you say WE hog all the sun. Heck, the last three months have been non-stop rain here. We are finally getting some decent riding weather around here.

Quote:
Though, question for ya @choneofakind (or whomever), on my flush mount I have three wires. Red, black, and black/white. I've figured out the black is ground, red is blinker, and black/white is running light.
That's odd. In my case, the red was the runner and the striped was the blinker.

Quote:
Right now I have red and black wired into the existing turn signal plug with the black/white hanging loose. If I clip the black/white straight to the battery, the bright filiment comes on solid and the dimmer one blinks really fast with the switch. The solid running light drowns out the blinker.

Any ideas?
If your bike has similar wiring to the pregen, the black wire on the turn signal should go to the yellow wire on the bike (black/yellow on the newgen). That is ground. The running light wire should go to the tail light circuit. You could use the headlight wire if you are desperate, but if you want it right, it should go to the tail light running light circuit. If you do it that way, you can activate them by turning the key to "PARK" position. Otherwise, if you hook it to the headlights, it will only come on when the engine is running and NOT when in park.

Below is the pregen turn signal schematic.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Turn Signal Schematic - R3.pdf (59.1 KB, 5 views)
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Old November 15th, 2012, 04:43 PM   #20
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Whoops, I lied.

My red is hooked to the bike's green. The black/white is hooked to the black/yellow on the bike, and the solid black is loose.

When i was trying to figure out which was which, if the solid black had power the running light came on. If the red had power, it blinked.
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Old November 15th, 2012, 06:20 PM   #21
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Whoops, I lied.

My red is hooked to the bike's green. The black/white is hooked to the black/yellow on the bike, and the solid black is loose.

When i was trying to figure out which was which, if the solid black had power the running light came on. If the red had power, it blinked.
When you say red blinked, you mean with the turn signal switch on, right? Not blinking when hooked directly to a battery.

Anyhow, you need to connect black to the bike's black/yellow. And red to the bikes other wire which is probably a different color on each side. From what you are saying, the striped wire goes to the tail light.
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Old November 15th, 2012, 06:55 PM   #22
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Do you have a photo of the actual turn signal operating in daylight?
First one was woods, in a break in the trees. Freakin' bright day; broad daylight.

Second one was in the open in broad daylight. I had just gotten home from work on a half day, it was like 11:30 am summer sunshine. Sure there's the little bit of shade to cut the glare from one tree over my driveway, but it was bright that day outside.

Trust me when I say the cameras were compensating on both days.
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Old November 15th, 2012, 08:10 PM   #23
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Trust me when I say the cameras were compensating on both days.
Um, yep, it compensated all the shadows away.
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Old November 15th, 2012, 08:25 PM   #24
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Well fine don't believe me. I like my bike. You like your bike. No worries
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Old November 16th, 2012, 05:34 AM   #25
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I like ALL Ninjas. But you need a vacation to a state that has real sunshine. And shadows. And skies that are blue instead of white.

EDIT: Attached a photo of what the sky is supposed to look like. Note the blue sky and distinct shadows. This was taken on the west bank of Lake Okeechobee looking east.
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Old November 16th, 2012, 08:44 AM   #26
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When you say red blinked, you mean with the turn signal switch on, right? Not blinking when hooked directly to a battery.

Anyhow, you need to connect black to the bike's black/yellow. And red to the bikes other wire which is probably a different color on each side. From what you are saying, the striped wire goes to the tail light.
I'll tinker with it this weekend once I get the plastics dealt with. Trying to finish painting while still dry outside.

But yeah, while I was testing, the power was coming from the turn signal wire. So when I had red to green and the switch on, the light blinked (albeit very quickly).
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Old November 16th, 2012, 12:03 PM   #27
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Old November 16th, 2012, 12:04 PM   #28
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haha it's like a mythical creature or something, saw a show on discovery channel one time about it..
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:27 PM   #29
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Can a router table remove the lip from this steel bushing?

I just went to a shop and the guy kept telling me that I'd have to get it milled, but it seems like the machine you used could do it easily if it can do the same thing with steel.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:55 PM   #30
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Can a router table remove the lip from this steel bushing?

I just went to a shop and the guy kept telling me that I'd have to get it milled, but it seems like the machine you used could do it easily if it can do the same thing with steel.
A router is made for wood. You can get away with plastic and even aluminum, but not steel. To remove that lip, why not just use an angle grinder?
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Old November 20th, 2012, 06:13 PM   #31
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A router is made for wood. You can get away with plastic and even aluminum, but not steel. To remove that lip, why not just use an angle grinder?
Thanks. I was hoping there was a different kind of blade or something.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 06:55 PM   #32
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Great DIY video, simple, easy to understand, and to the point!

When I mounted mine I used nuts with a nylon insert in them to help reduce the chance of loosing one from vibrations?
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Old November 21st, 2012, 05:58 AM   #33
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I used lockwashers, but locknuts are a good choice too. Either will keep it from vibrating loose. I like locknuts better, but they didn't have any at the hardware store when I was there.
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Old November 21st, 2012, 06:06 AM   #34
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Thanks. I was hoping there was a different kind of blade or something.
Cutting steel like that takes a much stronger bearing. If you used a metal cutting bit on steel in the router table, you would either burn up the motor or destroy the bearings in the router.

The easiest and cheapest way to remove the lip on that thing in the photo would be with a $10 angle grinder from Harbor Freight. A mill isn't the right tool either. An angle grinder isn't going to make it perfect, but it will work. If I wanted it perfect, I would use a lathe.
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Old November 21st, 2012, 11:11 AM   #35
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This is really odd. The bike is plumb but the parking lot, car and truck in the background are tilted.
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Old November 25th, 2012, 07:31 PM   #36
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jk, but that would be sweet.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 04:42 PM   #37
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this is a very good tutorial, great work.
your sig is my username.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 05:38 PM   #38
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your sig is my username.
it's the [ you ] tag. Which shows the username of the dude that's currently logged on. Log out and it should say unregistered or something.
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