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Old May 6th, 2018, 02:08 PM   #1
zjjdbd
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Clutch engages but doesn’t disengage

I have a 2007 250 that I did an engine swap with from a donor bike. The original engine had a blown head gasket, but I was able to find 2 donor bikes for $400. Everything went fine with the engine swap, but after everything was put back together and I went to take it on a test ride, I noticed that the clutch wouldn’t disengage (cut power to the rear wheel). I decided to check out the clutch plates and they did look pretty scratched up so I switched them with another set thinking that would solve the problem. Nope! I’ve attached a picture of how the rough plates that I removed look.

Any ideas? I’ve tried adjusting the clutch on the engine side and at the handlebar and I can get it set to a good friction zone, but just no disengaging.
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Old May 6th, 2018, 03:50 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome!

Please post photo of left lever with cable and clutch lever down at engine.
Also the clutch springs and basket.

Look down the wells/tunnel where the springs go and make sure someone hasn't shimmed it too much. This causes coil-bind before clutch-plates have disengaged.

Also count total number of plates. The very last plate is slightly different?
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Old May 6th, 2018, 05:49 PM   #3
zjjdbd
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Here’s the pictures of the handlebar and engine side clutch. I’ll have to post the springs and basket photos tomorrow when I can break it open again. I did try every combo I could think of with the adjustments - fine adjuster all the way in/out and engine side clutch top/bottom

When you say shim, what do you mean by that? I do remember that the clutch spring bolts were different from the OEM bolts on the other stock engine I got the plates from so it wouldn’t surprise me if someone had been in the engine tinkering around.

The plates “should” be the OEM plates. I took them out of the stock engine where the clutch was functioning and placed them in this one that had the scratched plates. I wonder if I should’ve also used the OEM springs and bolts also?
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Last futzed with by zjjdbd; May 6th, 2018 at 05:50 PM. Reason: More info
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Old May 6th, 2018, 06:47 PM   #4
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Pull your outer pressure plate and rotate it 90 degrees.
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Old May 8th, 2018, 08:31 PM   #5
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Make sure that sides of fingers in your clutch basket aren't notched like this. File them smooth so the discs can slide and separate.



Look down holes where springs sit and remove any washers or shims that may be down there.



Or shims between bolts and springs. Remove those too. There should be only spring and bolt with captive washer.

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Old May 9th, 2018, 02:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjjdbd View Post
I have a 2007 250 that I did an engine swap with from a donor bike. The original engine had a blown head gasket, but I was able to find 2 donor bikes for $400. Everything went fine with the engine swap, but after everything was put back together and I went to take it on a test ride, I noticed that the clutch wouldn’t disengage (cut power to the rear wheel). I decided to check out the clutch plates and they did look pretty scratched up so I switched them with another set thinking that would solve the problem. Nope! I’ve attached a picture of how the rough plates that I removed look.

Any ideas? I’ve tried adjusting the clutch on the engine side and at the handlebar and I can get it set to a good friction zone, but just no disengaging.
Those marks on the pressure plates look abnormal. Rust?

Notes from the service manual;

- "Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or it could slip into place later, creating enough cable play to prevent clutch disengagement."

- Fit the spring plate back into place, aligning the mark on the plate with the mark on the clutch hub.


- Visually inspect the fingers of the clutch housing where the tangs of the friction plates hit them. If they are badly worn or if there are grooves cut where the tangs hit, replace the housing. Also, replace the friction plate if their tangs are damaged



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Old May 9th, 2018, 04:24 PM   #7
zjjdbd
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Finally got around to opening it up. Springs didn’t have any shims. And no visible notches that needed to filed down.
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Old May 9th, 2018, 05:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Finally got around to opening it up. Springs didn’t have any shims. And no visible notches that needed to filed down.
And you pulled the friction plates and pressure plates and inspected the clutch basket itself? I remember changing the clutch plates on my Honda FT500 and I bought the clutch plates on eBay. All the clutch plates were identical. However, the FT500 had one clutch plate that was a different size, the outer most one. It took me some time to figure out why my clutch wasn't working properly. I acquired the correct clutch plate and discarded one that I got from eBay and bingo, the clutch worked fine. I'm not saying that's the situation with your Ninja and I've never had my clutch apart - and probably never will.

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Old May 9th, 2018, 11:17 PM   #9
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Yeah, outermost disc is different on 2007 as well. Make sure you don't have an inner plate in outermost position.
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Old May 10th, 2018, 06:31 AM   #10
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That's what's weird and not making sense. I took the clutch plates and discs from the bike where the clutch was working fine and put them directly in this bike. Didn't change the order of them or anything. Just took out the good stack and installed them thinking that would solve the problem. I wonder if I should just exchange the whole basket from the working bike?
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Old May 10th, 2018, 06:47 AM   #11
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Which pressure plate did you use? Keep that matched up with same basket.

You might have bad combo on your bike and putting in different discs won’t change that.

Also something may be going on with release lever and cam. Usually stroke starts before 90-degrees, moves through 90-degrees when you squeeze lever and end up same amount on other side of 90-degrees. Your lever’s already at 90-degrees in resting state, strange...
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Old May 10th, 2018, 06:58 AM   #12
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Did you rotate the pressure plate 90 degrees from it's original installation?

https://forums.ninja250.org/posting....&t=88789&tro=1
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Old May 10th, 2018, 07:13 AM   #13
zjjdbd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Which pressure plate did you use? Keep that matched up with same basket.

You might have bad combo on your bike and putting in different discs won’t change that.

Also something may be going on with release lever and cam. Usually stroke starts before 90-degrees, moves through 90-degrees when you squeeze lever and end up same amount on other side of 90-degrees. Your lever’s already at 90-degrees in resting state, strange...
Yep, I used the same pressure plate w/ the same basket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VaFish View Post
Did you rotate the pressure plate 90 degrees from it's original installation?

https://forums.ninja250.org/posting....&t=88789&tro=1
I'll try that. I did match up the little circles/dots on the pressure plate and hub. The pressure plate does sit snugly to the plates.


I've been messing with this thing so long. I just know that if I take it to the dealer that it's most likely going to be something simple and they're going to charge me some crazy amount to fix it.
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Old September 23rd, 2019, 09:34 PM   #14
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A google search landed me here today. Wanted to post my solution in case it helps someone else. Made a complete DIY for the clutch replacement, including the troubleshooting and solution.

https://youtu.be/7WfanW3tGZk
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