At wits end trying to bleed front brake after new line install

daverdfw · February 10th, 2016, 09:56 PM

So I installed new SS brake line. And have been trying to bleed the brake. NO matter how many times I pump the lever, I never feel any pressure build up. Have tried reverse-bleeding by using a syringe on the caliper end. Is there still just too much air in the system? Do I need to get a vacuum pump?

RacinNinja · February 10th, 2016, 10:00 PM

Here's what works for me, YMMV.

Leave the bleeder open, with a hose attached, in a container with CLEAN brake fluid in it. Pump the lever until fluid moves from the master cylinder.

Now you can bleed as normal.

daverdfw · February 10th, 2016, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Here's what works for me, YMMV.

Leave the bleeder open, with a hose attached, in a container with CLEAN brake fluid in it. Pump the lever until fluid moves from the master cylinder.

Now you can bleed as normal.

yeah I started trying that, but it never pushed much fluid out , dribbles at best. I guess just keep going to get all the air out?

RacinNinja · February 10th, 2016, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

yeah I started trying that, but it never pushed much fluid out , dribbles at best. I guess just keep going to get all the air out?

When I did mine, it took a minute or three of pumping before things happened. Don't pump slow, put some effort into it.

daverdfw · February 10th, 2016, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

When I did mine, it took a minute or three of pumping before things happened. Don't pump slow, put some effort into it.

it just worked! Thanks! Now I gotta get the pads separated so I can put the wheel back on!

RacinNinja · February 10th, 2016, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

it just worked! Thanks! Now I gotta get the pads separated so I can put the wheel back on!

Good job!

daverdfw · February 10th, 2016, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Good job!

I appreciate your quick help! This forum rocks!

csmith12 · February 10th, 2016, 10:37 PM

Video for reference on the "bleed tube" method. Use a Mt. Dew bottle for added braking power. hahahahahahahah

Link to original page on YouTube.

daverdfw · February 10th, 2016, 10:40 PM

how do you mark a post as helpful on here?

csmith12 · February 10th, 2016, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

how do you mark a post as helpful on here?

It's a perk you get after reaching 1k posts, you're well on your way.

Motofool · February 10th, 2016, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

how do you mark a post as helpful on here?

I did it for you

adouglas · February 11th, 2016, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

it just worked! Thanks! Now I gotta get the pads separated so I can put the wheel back on!

erm....

you're supposed to bleed with the wheel on the bike....

Be careful when you pry the pads apart. That displaces fluid, which will move back up into your reservoir. If the reservoir is already near full, you might have a mess on your hands as it overflows.

It's also easy to damage the pads.

daverdfw · February 11th, 2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adouglas

erm....

you're supposed to bleed with the wheel on the bike....

Be careful when you pry the pads apart. That displaces fluid, which will move back up into your reservoir. If the reservoir is already near full, you might have a mess on your hands as it overflows.

It's also easy to damage the pads.

Yeah I kinda realized that halfway through, I am going to take the pads off, and use a C-clamp to push the piston back

HoneyBadgerRy · February 11th, 2016, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

It's a perk you get after reaching 1k posts, you're well on your way.

69 down, 931 more to go.

SLOWn60 · February 11th, 2016, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daverdfw

Yeah I kinda realized that halfway through, I am going to take the pads off, and use a C-clamp to push the piston back

No need! Just use a large, wide blade flat screwdriver and gently pry on the metal part of the brake pad, not the soft brake material.

csmith12 · February 11th, 2016, 10:34 AM

If everything is right, you should be able to compress the pads with your hand. If not, it's not clean enough. ijs

But yea, the metal backing part of the pad is safe to pry against.

Ralgha · February 12th, 2016, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

It's a perk you get after reaching 1k posts, you're well on your way.

Really? I better get posting!

hfd1 tuner · February 13th, 2016, 02:54 AM

Glad you got sorted out I have a TIP for future bleeding problems. If you take the master cylinder off the handle bar with the cap off and hold it at angle so air bubble will come up into the res. you can gently pump lever and watch the air come out. saves you a ton in brake fluid...air rises in line and ends up in master cylinder.

daverdfw · February 13th, 2016, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hfd1 tuner

Glad you got sorted out I have a TIP for future bleeding problems. If you take the master cylinder off the handle bar with the cap off and hold it at angle so air bubble will come up into the res. you can gently pump lever and watch the air come out. saves you a ton in brake fluid...air rises in line and ends up in master cylinder.

Thanks! this forum has been fantastic helping a new 250 owner learn about how to work on these things. I appreciate everyones help

adouglas · February 14th, 2016, 06:02 AM

Here's an invaluable tip about maintaining your bike.

Brown-bag your lunch for a week or two. Take the money you have saved and

BUY THE FACTORY MAINTENANCE MANUAL.

Just do it. And follow it.

The investment will pay for itself many times over in error avoidance.

hfd1 tuner · February 14th, 2016, 03:19 PM

manuals are great because some factory personal wrote down how they thought it was best on how to do something. Never rule out that there maybe a better way to achieve the same result only faster and better.

2fiddy-trackpair · February 14th, 2016, 03:33 PM

Usually you can let gravity do most of the work before you start bleeding with the lever. Even on a dry system the fluid will flow down to the lowest point after a while. When fluid starts dripping out of the bleeder you can close it and start doing the manual bleed procedures.

csmith12 · February 14th, 2016, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fiddy-trackpair

Usually you can let gravity do most of the work before you start bleeding with the lever. Even on a dry system the fluid will flow down to the lowest point after a while. When fluid starts dripping out of the bleeder you can close it and start doing the manual bleed procedures.

A few brews helps the wait process...

2fiddy-trackpair · February 14th, 2016, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

A few brews helps the wait process...

An excellent way to pass the time.

Dsheumaker · March 3rd, 2016, 11:26 AM

When i first got my SS line i had a rough time getting it to bleed. Used a vacuum bleeder to get fluid through the line and then went back to the old school manner. IF no air bubbles are coming out at the caliper you may need to bleed your banjo bolt on the M/C.

daverdfw · March 3rd, 2016, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

When i first got my SS line i had a rough time getting it to bleed. Used a vacuum bleeder to get fluid through the line and then went back to the old school manner. IF no air bubbles are coming out at the caliper you may need to bleed your banjo bolt on the M/C.

after I opened the bleed screw more, I was able to pump tons of fluid through.

February 10th, 2016, 09:56 PM	#1
daverdfw ninjette.org guru Name: David Location: Fort Worth,TX Join Date: Nov 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250 Posts: 386	At wits end trying to bleed front brake after new line install So I installed new SS brake line. And have been trying to bleed the brake. NO matter how many times I pump the lever, I never feel any pressure build up. Have tried reverse-bleeding by using a syringe on the caliper end. Is there still just too much air in the system? Do I need to get a vacuum pump?

February 10th, 2016, 10:00 PM	#2
RacinNinja Vintage Screwball Name: B Location: Washington Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Mar '16	Here's what works for me, YMMV. Leave the bleeder open, with a hose attached, in a container with CLEAN brake fluid in it. Pump the lever until fluid moves from the master cylinder. Now you can bleed as normal. __________________________________________________ Goin' fast on slow bikes!
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

February 10th, 2016, 10:37 PM	#8
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Video for reference on the "bleed tube" method. Use a Mt. Dew bottle for added braking power. hahahahahahahah Link to original page on YouTube. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School
	2 out of 2 members found this post helpful.

February 10th, 2016, 10:40 PM	#9
daverdfw ninjette.org guru Name: David Location: Fort Worth,TX Join Date: Nov 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250 Posts: 386	how do you mark a post as helpful on here?
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

February 11th, 2016, 10:34 AM	#16
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	If everything is right, you should be able to compress the pads with your hand. If not, it's not clean enough. ijs But yea, the metal backing part of the pad is safe to pry against. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

February 13th, 2016, 02:54 AM	#18
hfd1 tuner ninjette.org member Name: charles Location: Sugar Hill GA. Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): many mostly racebikes cbr565 fzr490 ex250ish Posts: 40	Glad you got sorted out I have a TIP for future bleeding problems. If you take the master cylinder off the handle bar with the cap off and hold it at angle so air bubble will come up into the res. you can gently pump lever and watch the air come out. saves you a ton in brake fluid...air rises in line and ends up in master cylinder.

February 14th, 2016, 06:02 AM	#20
adouglas Cat herder Name: Gort Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 6 MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13	Here's an invaluable tip about maintaining your bike. Brown-bag your lunch for a week or two. Take the money you have saved and BUY THE FACTORY MAINTENANCE MANUAL. Just do it. And follow it. The investment will pay for itself many times over in error avoidance. __________________________________________________ I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

February 14th, 2016, 03:19 PM	#21
hfd1 tuner ninjette.org member Name: charles Location: Sugar Hill GA. Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): many mostly racebikes cbr565 fzr490 ex250ish Posts: 40	manuals are great because some factory personal wrote down how they thought it was best on how to do something. Never rule out that there maybe a better way to achieve the same result only faster and better.

February 14th, 2016, 03:33 PM	#22
2fiddy-trackpair ninjette.org member Name: Fred Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2012 250r Posts: 41	Usually you can let gravity do most of the work before you start bleeding with the lever. Even on a dry system the fluid will flow down to the lowest point after a while. When fluid starts dripping out of the bleeder you can close it and start doing the manual bleed procedures.

March 3rd, 2016, 11:26 AM	#25
Dsheumaker ninjette.org guru Name: David Location: Knoxville, TN Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): 14 Ninja 300 (Track Only), 07 CRF150RB Posts: 281	When i first got my SS line i had a rough time getting it to bleed. Used a vacuum bleeder to get fluid through the line and then went back to the old school manner. IF no air bubbles are coming out at the caliper you may need to bleed your banjo bolt on the M/C.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

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