outdoor storing for winter?

dpkim19 · October 6th, 2016, 06:51 PM

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but I had a question that I couldn't find an answer to in other forums. So here goes

I live in an apartment complex and I don't have a garage. I was looking into CycleShell, BikeShield, and other outdoor tent-like storage contraptions for keeping my bike safe from the elements during the upcoming winter. But I read that I should be putting my bike on stands for the off season as well. So has anyone experienced putting one of those BikeShield things on their bike while also having it on bike stands? Or is there a reason why it might be okay to not put the bike on bike stands if the BikeShield has some sort of platform for the bike to be on?

adouglas · October 7th, 2016, 05:43 AM

Should be fine. Stands only raise the bike a few inches, and the handles increase the overall length a couple of feet at most. I doubt those shelters are that close-fitting.

The reason people put the bike on stands is to avoid flat-spotting the tires.

Those shelters are kind of expensive. Have you considered linking up with other riders near you and splitting the cost of a storage unit? Better weather protection, plus security.

Rifleman · October 7th, 2016, 05:45 AM

Welcome to the board.

Pretty specific question. The BikeShield tent is really small (just covers the bike) so on a stand it's in an upright position and easier to be covered.

and stands are like helmets, if you have a $20 bike, buy a $20 dollar stand.

coupla things to pay attention to regardless of the way you go.

the very best is in a garage, hell the very best is in the living room behind the couch but that's not gonna happen. If you have a friend, even if you have to drive a bit, that would give you, rent you, beer payment, what'evah enough space for your bike, that would be the way to go.

if you are going to cover it and leave it outside.

check it often, a small problem caught early on is more easy to recover from rather then pulling the cover off 4 months later and finding something really bad.

moisture accumulates under a cover... if they keep the rain off, they keep the humidity in. This is bad for your chain, electrical connections/switches like your turn signal, start button, and horn. It's bad for aluminum, forks, fasteners, brake rotors. So on warm sunny days, pull back the cover for a bit, do a little TLC and let things dry out.

watch for damage to the cover, a flapping ripped cover with a blob of ice with damage paint, plastics, mirrors in a storm.

Do a full clean, grease, and maint before putting her to bed for the winter. A well greased chain won't rust nearly as much as a dry one.

Fill the tank to the VERY top, minimum air space. The tank breaths, gas fumes go out in the day time when the temp rises... at night it cools down and pulls in air, moist air. This is not a problem when you are going through a tank of gas every week or two, but 4 months will get significant water in your tank... water is bad in the fuel system, it wrecks everything and makes getting her started in the spring a job. It's also worth adding Stabil to keep the fuel conditioned.

Pull the battery and bring it inside. If the bike is really going to sit in a canvas cocoon it doesn't need a battery. Huge number of bad things can happen. A charged battery won't freeze, but as the battery discharges over time, the strength of the acid goes down and down. A coke is a pH of 2.0 and you can freeze that until the can explodes. A battery will do the same, freeze if it's pretty dead and if it's cold enough and then thaw when temps warm and all that battery acid leaks onto the pretty parts, or the chain, or something you don't want acid on. Put it on a charger once a month for a few hours or get one of those tender things, not too expensive and will have your battery ready when the snow melts.

Panda · October 7th, 2016, 06:56 AM

I keep my bike outside all year round. It's typically warm enough to go for a 20 minute ride or so every other week. If you can manage to do that you save yourself the hassle of getting stands and a tent.

jkv45 · October 7th, 2016, 07:43 AM

Consider what you would spend for a decent shelter, then look for inside storage alternatives in that price range.

You'll be happy you did, and so will your cycle.

The basics for proper winter storage are adding stabilizer and filling the tank (and running through the system or better yet draining the carbs), changing the oil and filter (then run it for 30 seconds), checking the condition of the coolant (so it doesn't freeze and crack the block), removing the battery, and doing any regular maintenance (chain lube and adjustment, fluid checks, etc).

After changing the oil, it's best to not run the engine until you are ready to ride it again. Starting to "warm-up" an engine only adds contaminants to the fresh oil and does nothing good.

October 6th, 2016, 06:51 PM	#1
dpkim19 ninjette.org newbie Name: Daniel Location: staten island Join Date: Oct 2016 Motorcycle(s): ninja 300 Posts: 1	outdoor storing for winter? Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but I had a question that I couldn't find an answer to in other forums. So here goes I live in an apartment complex and I don't have a garage. I was looking into CycleShell, BikeShield, and other outdoor tent-like storage contraptions for keeping my bike safe from the elements during the upcoming winter. But I read that I should be putting my bike on stands for the off season as well. So has anyone experienced putting one of those BikeShield things on their bike while also having it on bike stands? Or is there a reason why it might be okay to not put the bike on bike stands if the BikeShield has some sort of platform for the bike to be on?

October 7th, 2016, 05:43 AM	#2
adouglas Cat herder Name: Gort Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 6 MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13	Should be fine. Stands only raise the bike a few inches, and the handles increase the overall length a couple of feet at most. I doubt those shelters are that close-fitting. The reason people put the bike on stands is to avoid flat-spotting the tires. Those shelters are kind of expensive. Have you considered linking up with other riders near you and splitting the cost of a storage unit? Better weather protection, plus security. __________________________________________________ I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.

October 7th, 2016, 05:45 AM	#3
Rifleman Old and slow Name: Lohman Location: Aiken, S.C. Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): Suzuki TL1000R, Honda CBR600F3, Ninja 250 Posts: 889	Welcome to the board. Pretty specific question. The BikeShield tent is really small (just covers the bike) so on a stand it's in an upright position and easier to be covered. and stands are like helmets, if you have a $20 bike, buy a $20 dollar stand. coupla things to pay attention to regardless of the way you go. the very best is in a garage, hell the very best is in the living room behind the couch but that's not gonna happen. If you have a friend, even if you have to drive a bit, that would give you, rent you, beer payment, what'evah enough space for your bike, that would be the way to go. if you are going to cover it and leave it outside. check it often, a small problem caught early on is more easy to recover from rather then pulling the cover off 4 months later and finding something really bad. moisture accumulates under a cover... if they keep the rain off, they keep the humidity in. This is bad for your chain, electrical connections/switches like your turn signal, start button, and horn. It's bad for aluminum, forks, fasteners, brake rotors. So on warm sunny days, pull back the cover for a bit, do a little TLC and let things dry out. watch for damage to the cover, a flapping ripped cover with a blob of ice with damage paint, plastics, mirrors in a storm. Do a full clean, grease, and maint before putting her to bed for the winter. A well greased chain won't rust nearly as much as a dry one. Fill the tank to the VERY top, minimum air space. The tank breaths, gas fumes go out in the day time when the temp rises... at night it cools down and pulls in air, moist air. This is not a problem when you are going through a tank of gas every week or two, but 4 months will get significant water in your tank... water is bad in the fuel system, it wrecks everything and makes getting her started in the spring a job. It's also worth adding Stabil to keep the fuel conditioned. Pull the battery and bring it inside. If the bike is really going to sit in a canvas cocoon it doesn't need a battery. Huge number of bad things can happen. A charged battery won't freeze, but as the battery discharges over time, the strength of the acid goes down and down. A coke is a pH of 2.0 and you can freeze that until the can explodes. A battery will do the same, freeze if it's pretty dead and if it's cold enough and then thaw when temps warm and all that battery acid leaks onto the pretty parts, or the chain, or something you don't want acid on. Put it on a charger once a month for a few hours or get one of those tender things, not too expensive and will have your battery ready when the snow melts. __________________________________________________

October 7th, 2016, 06:56 AM	#4
Panda not an actual panda Name: dan Location: philadelphia Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250, 2009 CBR600RR (Sold) Posts: A lot.	I keep my bike outside all year round. It's typically warm enough to go for a 20 minute ride or so every other week. If you can manage to do that you save yourself the hassle of getting stands and a tent.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

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October 7th, 2016, 07:43 AM	#5
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	Consider what you would spend for a decent shelter, then look for inside storage alternatives in that price range. You'll be happy you did, and so will your cycle. The basics for proper winter storage are adding stabilizer and filling the tank (and running through the system or better yet draining the carbs), changing the oil and filter (then run it for 30 seconds), checking the condition of the coolant (so it doesn't freeze and crack the block), removing the battery, and doing any regular maintenance (chain lube and adjustment, fluid checks, etc). After changing the oil, it's best to not run the engine until you are ready to ride it again. Starting to "warm-up" an engine only adds contaminants to the fresh oil and does nothing good.