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Old November 9th, 2015, 01:21 PM   #6921
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Sell them stock bars Timm!

There are plenty of members here that will need them. It's always bars and turn signals.
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Old November 9th, 2015, 01:25 PM   #6922
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Cool. I can sell at lest one side

Thanks!
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Old November 9th, 2015, 03:30 PM   #6923
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Sell them stock bars Timm!

There are plenty of members here that will need them. It's always bars and turn signals.
New factory bars are $45 ea.

Straight used ones should sell easily. I would have bought a used one back in August if I could have found one.
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Old November 9th, 2015, 03:32 PM   #6924
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Pulled the battery and stuck it on the tender. Tired of jumping it since I've been slacking off and not riding it lately. Bike is still nekkid waiting on an oil change and some minor maintenance even after three weeks.
Wire the tender up permanently and leave it plugged in when you don't ride it. You can use the pigtail to power other devices when you are riding.
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Old November 9th, 2015, 05:31 PM   #6925
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Wire the tender up permanently and leave it plugged in when you don't ride it. You can use the pigtail to power other devices when you are riding.
Have too much other crap hooked to the battery as it is. Sides this is only the second time I have used the tender as I normally ride every weekend. Not worth the hassle of trying to find an adaptor between the SAE tender plug and the Gerbing jacket (which would be the only thing that hangs outside the bike allowing easy use of).
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Old November 10th, 2015, 12:17 PM   #6926
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After a good long ride yesterday, with some let's say spirited riding, SERENITY has voiced her opinion, and developed some issues, which I will look into the next few day, due to rain is in the forecast.
Just got it all back together, and tested, all is well with SERENITY.

Pulled the carburetors, pulled plugs, tried different CDI, fresh gas, checked valve adjustment, swapped out the CoP's.

Never found the gremlin, but it's gone.

While I was at it I did fill it up and added Sta-Bil Marine 360, just in case it sits awhile.
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Old November 10th, 2015, 12:27 PM   #6927
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So when I trailered the 2001 back with the flat tire on Sunday my son was helping me load the bike, as he hooked up the soft strap to the right handlebar he asked me "What are these two wires for? I can't find where they go."

Looked at it last night, sure enough 2 wires with spades on them and no terminal lugs to connect them too. Looked at the 3 other ninjettes and their wires were connected to a little switch. But no switch on this bike. No brake lights came on when I pulled the brake either. (only been riding it since July)

Went to the parts pile, found a front brake lever, removed switch, and installed it on the bike. Now have a working brake light.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 04:38 PM   #6928
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Did a new windscreen a little while ago, added the Rev2 throttle and put in a R6 Shock. Testing is friday!
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Old November 11th, 2015, 07:32 PM   #6929
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Washed the fairings, got everything reinstalled, and went on a short ride to get the oil ready for analysis at Blackstone.

She does look purdy.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 07:53 PM   #6930
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installed the new 15rcs
mounted new shorter and radial specific SS line

head still at APE

Bought parts for rear res delete

and more!
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Old November 13th, 2015, 09:30 PM   #6931
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Fitted the Area P race pipe. Installed Woodcraft clipons. Installed one swingarm spool and couldn't find the other one. Decided to clean up and found the second spool after all the tools were put away
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Old November 13th, 2015, 11:06 PM   #6932
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She does look purdy.
They both do.
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Old November 13th, 2015, 11:36 PM   #6933
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They both do.
I don't have two bikes, you need your eyes checked.
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Old November 14th, 2015, 12:18 AM   #6934
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I don't have two bikes, you need your eyes checked.
Lol i woulda expected one of these ""
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Old November 15th, 2015, 04:00 PM   #6935
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Well the bike shop didn't get my tire in on Friday, so I swapped my spare wheel onto my bike today so I could take it for a ride.

Daughters bike had a leaking petcock that I replaced with a Yamaha quad petcock without the vacuum shutoff.

Then daughter, son, and I went for a little ride that included stopping by a riding training companies open house and BBQ.
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Old November 15th, 2015, 04:52 PM   #6936
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My 250 is not with me, I missed it while in the garage today. :\
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Old November 16th, 2015, 05:24 AM   #6937
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Oh, I forgot to add, when I swapped out the rear wheel I put 42 tooth sprocket on the rear. Dropped the rpm about 10%
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Old November 19th, 2015, 01:09 AM   #6938
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After being neglected for 15 months, poured in some fresh fuel and the bike came bike to life. Need a new battery though, anyone have suggestions for a light weight compact battery?
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 05:03 PM   #6939
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Worked on the Cafe racer project bike today.

Got the headlight bracket mounted and the cafe fairing. worked on the mounting the gage cluster, but haven't finalized that yet.

Yesterday I took the 2001 for a ride with my son on his 2007. Went about 200 miles total. Rode down to Orange, VA to Waugh Enterprise Harley Davidson. The owner is over 80 years old and is retiring, auctioning off all his museum collection.

After that my daughter and I rode with my son to work, (both are still is on their learners permits so they need a licensed rider with them) then we came home. I had to go back and pick my son up at 1 AM. Not doing that again, I need my beauty sleep.
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Old November 23rd, 2015, 08:12 AM   #6940
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Didn't work on the 250s but worked on the XR100s rebuilding suspension linkages. Did you know they actually used a delrin like plastic bushing for the linkage pivots? I know its just a kids trail bike but .........terrible choice, just terrible.
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Old November 23rd, 2015, 04:02 PM   #6941
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^^ it's easily replaceable. idk about you, but it seems pretty easy to just order new bushings and push them in place.

Delrin bushings are used pretty frequently in MTB suspension pivot applications, they wear and are replaced as needed.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:11 AM   #6942
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^^ it's easily replaceable. idk about you, but it seems pretty easy to just order new bushings and push them in place.

Delrin bushings are used pretty frequently in MTB suspension pivot applications, they wear and are replaced as needed.
No way man.

First off loads on a motorcycle on asphalt are much much higher than bicycle on dirt. While plain bearings work well in low speed rotation with high loads, the material is suspect for this application. Its not uncommon (I am finding out) to burn through a set of these in a couple months of use. What may work for a kid in the back yard will not take the punishment of an full sized man on a kart track. I have NEVER seen plastic bushings used in a road going motorcycle linkage.

Second I have a pretty hard time believing they use plastic bushings on high end mountain bikes, low to mid priced bikes sure. Higher end stuff almost certainly have cartridge bearings? (someone that does mnt biking chime in as I only have road bikes). If mtb guys are anything like road bike guys, they geek/freak out over every little detail and would not want to give up that initial feel overcoming plain bearing friction.

Third the suspension travel and wheel control on this little bike sucks. Its linkage ratio makes for requiring a really high rate spring for anyone over 150 lbs. And even brand new plastic bushings have slop in them, a decent amount of slop. And that sucks for trying to keep my big rear end on that little bike under control lol.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:26 AM   #6943
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^^ Fair enough. I mean, it's a kids dirt bike right? Loads (in my head at least) seem like they'd be in the same order of magnitude as a trail mtb. Little kids aren't going to be jumping 30 ft gaps or big drops, right? Seems like it would be similar forces to what you'd expect to see with a 5" MTB.

I've got a entry level full suspension bike, which uses cartridge style sealed ball bearings. But some older trail bikes used bushings, according to Rojo. Over time they wear and get sloppy, you can pick the back of the bike up slightly and hear/feel the clinking as the slop gets pulled out

idk about newer, nicer, high end stuff as I've not gotten THAT into them. Only one I've done pivot rebuilds with is mine.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:29 AM   #6944
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^^ Fair enough. I mean, it's a kids dirt bike right? Loads (in my head at least) seem like they'd be in the same order of magnitude as a trail mtb. Little kids aren't going to be jumping 30 ft gaps or big drops, right? Seems like it would be similar forces to what you'd expect to see with a 5" MTB.

I've got a entry level full suspension bike, which uses cartridge style sealed ball bearings. But some older trail bikes used bushings, according to Rojo. Over time they wear and get sloppy, you can pick the back of the bike up slightly and hear/feel the clinking as the slop gets pulled out

idk about newer, nicer, high end stuff as I've not gotten THAT into them. Only one I've done pivot rebuilds with is mine.
LOL, no doubt it is certainly a kids play bike, but let a couple grown men out on them with semi sticky tires and all of a sudden its not a kids bike ...... ITS A RACE BIKE ..... LOOSE THE RED MIST!!!!!!! LOL.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:30 AM   #6945
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Retro some proper needle bearings into those bad boys if possible! Then racebike!!!!!!!
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:40 AM   #6946
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Retro some proper needle bearings into those bad boys if possible! Then racebike!!!!!!!
I already ordered a set lol, luckily there are enough folks out there that race these things competitively (dirt and asphalt) that there was a kit already made up after a bit of research. The sad thing is a plastic bushing replacement kit from All Balls or Honda is $60-80. The needle bearing upgrade kit was $80. Won't get it in until after the holiday though.

I also looked through McMaster and ordered up some bronze oil impregnated bushings that were the proper size and got those in last night and installed them as a test kit (<$20 total so why not) and it was a HUGE improvement over worn out stock bits. Overall feel on the rear end was much much more solid and it literally gave back around an inch of rear ride height (eyeballed lol).
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Old November 24th, 2015, 08:49 AM   #6947
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No way man.

First off loads on a motorcycle on asphalt are much much higher than bicycle on dirt. While plain bearings work well in low speed rotation with high loads, the material is suspect for this application. Its not uncommon (I am finding out) to burn through a set of these in a couple months of use. What may work for a kid in the back yard will not take the punishment of an full sized man on a kart track. I have NEVER seen plastic bushings used in a road going motorcycle linkage.

Second I have a pretty hard time believing they use plastic bushings on high end mountain bikes, low to mid priced bikes sure. Higher end stuff almost certainly have cartridge bearings? (someone that does mnt biking chime in as I only have road bikes). If mtb guys are anything like road bike guys, they geek/freak out over every little detail and would not want to give up that initial feel overcoming plain bearing friction.

Third the suspension travel and wheel control on this little bike sucks. Its linkage ratio makes for requiring a really high rate spring for anyone over 150 lbs. And even brand new plastic bushings have slop in them, a decent amount of slop. And that sucks for trying to keep my big rear end on that little bike under control lol.
The XR100 was and is meant to be a cheap dirt bike. You get what you pay for. It wasn't meant for asphalt anyway.

Nicer bearings require better seals, a more complicated design process.... + more money and a higher purchase price. Then you still have to pay more to replace the needle bearings when they grind themselves to dust.

There is a manufacturing principle that I have learned over the years: You only build the product good enough for the price that the customer is willing to pay. Any higher quality and you are throwing profit away.

Example: I used to work at a place that made OEM headlights and taillights for cars. Toyota paid more and demanded better quality than General Motors every time. Therefore we made better parts for Toyota than GM. Why make a better part than the customer asked for?

The XR100 is an extremely popular bike that Honda made for 22 years. I'd say they are getting the quality level right for the target customer.

It is low cost and compromises have to be made. I'm sure you can buy a more expensive bike with nice needle bearings for more money.


Personally I'd be happy to have delrin bushings on a cheap dirt bike. Pretty cheap and easy to replace.

Heck, it'd be pretty easy to make several sets of replacements with better clearance in less than half an hour and keep extras on the shelf.

BTW, If your your big rear end weighs more than 220lb including gear, you are exceeding the max weight specified in the owner's manual.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 09:05 AM   #6948
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The XR100 was and is meant to be a cheap dirt bike. You get what you pay for. It wasn't meant for asphalt anyway.

Nicer bearings require better seals, a more complicated design process.... + more money and a higher purchase price. Then you still have to pay more to replace the needle bearings when they grind themselves to dust.

There is a manufacturing principle that I have learned over the years: You only build the product good enough for the price that the customer is willing to pay. Any higher quality and you are throwing profit away.

Example: I used to work at a place that made OEM headlights and taillights for cars. Toyota paid more and demanded better quality than General Motors every time. Therefore we made better parts for Toyota than GM. Why make a better part than the customer asked for?

The XR100 is an extremely popular bike that Honda made for 22 years. I'd say they are getting the quality level right for the target customer.

It is low cost and compromises have to be made. I'm sure you can buy a more expensive bike with nice needle bearings for more money.


Personally I'd be happy to have delrin bushings on a cheap dirt bike. Pretty cheap and easy to replace.

Heck, it'd be pretty easy to make several sets of replacements with better clearance in less than half an hour and keep extras on the shelf.

BTW, If your your big rear end weighs more than 220lb including gear, you are exceeding the max weight specified in the owner's manual.
Trust me, as an engineer for a manufacturing company I am more than well aware of your point. The "best" performing solution is almost NEVER chosen. It is the highest PROFIT solution that gets the nod every time.

I am aware of the fact that I am using a product outside of its intended target audience and application. Guess what, in lots of ways so is everyone who takes a Ninjette to the track. There is a certain enjoyment that comes from such a venture .

And have you ever serviced those stupid little bushings. They suck, they don't want to come out easily from the housing, they become brittle and break, and seize, and wear out quickly. After changing a set out, I don't really want to have to do that replacement often. Cleaning and lubing a nice needle bearing as a service is easier and far more enjoyable (well less frustrating at least in my experience).

And big is relative, I am under the listed maximum capacity (not much geared up) but compared to a 80 lbs 10 year old, I am BIG.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 09:16 AM   #6949
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Trust me, as an engineer for a manufacturing company I am more than well aware of your point. The "best" performing solution is almost NEVER chosen. It is the highest PROFIT solution that gets the nod every time.

I am aware of the fact that I am using a product outside of its intended target audience and application. Guess what, in lots of ways so is everyone who takes a Ninjette to the track. There is a certain enjoyment that comes from such a venture .

And have you ever serviced those stupid little bushings. They suck, they don't want to come out easily from the housing, they become brittle and break, and seize, and wear out quickly. After changing a set out, I don't really want to have to do that replacement often. Cleaning and lubing a nice needle bearing as a service is easier and far more enjoyable (well less frustrating at least in my experience).

And big is relative, I am under the listed maximum capacity (not much geared up) but compared to a 80 lbs 10 year old, I am BIG.
I understand a little venting.

Closest thing to a no-compromise bike I've ever owned happened to come from Honda:
A 1994 RS125. What an awesome bike! (even for my 180lb plus butt!)
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Old November 24th, 2015, 09:32 AM   #6950
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I understand a little venting.

Closest thing to a no-compromise bike I've ever owned happened to come from Honda:
A 1994 RS125. What an awesome bike! (even for my 180lb plus butt!)
RS125 chassis with 4S swap (or preferably a NSF250R) is literally my (somewhat achievable) dream bike.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 10:13 AM   #6951
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Originally Posted by sharky nrk View Post
RS125 chassis with 4S swap (or preferably a NSF250R) is literally my (somewhat achievable) dream bike.
It's totally doable. I have an XR650R engine in a highly modified FZR400 chassis. I've been working on it for something like four years and I've learned a ton. I've had it on the track once but never raced it, but hopefully I'll actually race it next season.

If I do it over again it'll be different: KTM690 motor in a TZ or RS250 chassis or 250-250cc motor in an RS or TZ125 chassis.

BTW there is a Hond/Moriwaki MD250R someone is asking $5000.00 for over on the usgpru forum:
http://www.usgpru.net/forum/viewtopi...6241e371f1b1ad

Last futzed with by tgold; November 24th, 2015 at 11:30 AM.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 11:21 AM   #6952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharky nrk View Post
I also looked through McMaster and ordered up some bronze oil impregnated bushings that were the proper size and got those in last night and installed them as a test kit (<$20 total so why not) and it was a HUGE improvement over worn out stock bits. Overall feel on the rear end was much much more solid and it literally gave back around an inch of rear ride height (eyeballed lol).
I've got a XR that could use a set - got a McMaster number you could give me?

Thanks.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 12:31 PM   #6953
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Any way you can still and tap for a grease zert? Then you just need to goober it until clean grease comes out. Trouble free lube-I-cation, yo.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 01:24 PM   #6954
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Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
I've got a XR that could use a set - got a McMaster number you could give me?

Thanks.
Probably lol, if I have not tossed the packing slip/purchase confirmation. If not I can probably get the dimensions for you with caliper, I ordered a spare.
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Old November 24th, 2015, 01:37 PM   #6955
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Any way you can still and tap for a grease zert? Then you just need to goober it until clean grease comes out. Trouble free lube-I-cation, yo.
The bushing itself is an interference fit and does not move so you would also need to drill a couple small holes in the bronze bushing lined up with the grease fitting to lubricate the steel sleeve rides inside of the bushing - that's the pivot point.
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Old November 26th, 2015, 09:10 PM   #6956
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Driven clip-ons and a first fitting of my Hotbodies fiberglass.
(if there's no picture here, I broke something)
Like everyone else, I found that the stock brake line doesn't like to play well with the instrument cluster. Maybe I'll order a nicely angled banjo bolt, idk.
My SVRacing rearsets and other goodies should be the next thing to arrive though. I was kind of impressed when he e-mailed me a rather personal looking note along with my tracking number roughly 1 hour after I submitted my order online. That's pretty fast.
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Old November 27th, 2015, 04:08 PM   #6957
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Handle bar risers, 15/42 sprockets, new gen shock, replaced lowered dog bones w/ stock, cleaned and lubed chain. That was Friday, today (Sunday) rear fender eliminated and added led turn signals front and rear.

Last futzed with by quarterkawa; November 29th, 2015 at 08:20 PM.
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Old December 3rd, 2015, 06:16 AM   #6958
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Worked on the CBR600F3 fork cartridge install and ordered a Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen.
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Old December 6th, 2015, 09:48 AM   #6959
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Well, after 16,300 my rear tire finally felt scary on dirt/slush covered roads. Had two friends both go and tell me the rear was badly scalloped.

Oddly, to me, on dry pavement, the tire felt fine and stable. Even in corners I took at my normal speed.

Anyway, friend came over and helped me swap the dead set out for a used set I'd been holding onto for two months (front w/ 15k, rear / 12k). Yay, first tire change in my garage!!

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Old December 6th, 2015, 09:51 AM   #6960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf View Post
Anyway, friend came over and helped me swap the dead set out for a used set I'd been holding onto for two months (front w/ 15k, rear / 12k). Yay, first tire change in my garage!!
Used high mileage tires to replace even more used high mileage tires???

Grab the tire groover while you're at it! Make these ones last longer.



Are you using those uber high mileage Pilot Street whatevers that were made for lightweight bikes and are supposedly uber high mileage? Those mileage numbers seem awesome compared to what I've gotten in the past on sticky rubber.
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