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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:03 PM   #1
squirrel
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Air/fuel mixture screw o rings. How big of a deal are they?

Hey all first time post. So I recently picked up an 01 model and did the usual carb cleaning removing both jets. Noticed the rubber o rings that are supposed to be under the washer and spring were destroyed. Now I have just the air fuel screws in with the spring. I have them out 2.5 turns and the bike idles beautifully but when I give it the slightest amount of gas the bike bogs and dies. But when the choke is on it will idle up to around 4K or so. I’m stumped. Anyone have any input?
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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:15 PM   #2
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I wouldn't expect it to run right without the o-rings in place, but it sounds like there may be internal blockages, something is not assembled or adjusted correctly, or the diaphragms are damaged.
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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:24 PM   #3
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I wouldn't expect it to run right without the o-rings in place, but it sounds like there may be internal blockages, something is not assembled or adjusted correctly, or the diaphragms are damaged.
The diaphrams are in good shape. Everything looked pretty good. Soaked jets in carb cleaner. While the diaphrams were out i used carb cleaner and with the straw attachment squirted through all the holes until the carb cleaner was shooting out of another spot on the carb lol I know that sounds kinda vague but it seemed clean to me. The butterflies looked in sync to me but I’m no expert. Changed spark plugs from cold weather ngks to the number 7s that is supposed to be there. Bike fires right up. Can’t figure it out. Just wondering if the absence of that o ring is throwing the a/f ratio off enough to cause it to bog only under acceleration and not by way of choking 🤔
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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:34 PM   #4
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I should also add that the air box isn’t on. It’s just the carbs sitting in the boots.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 05:16 AM   #5
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I'd not be too quick to delete a factory part...especially a pilot screw sealing ring.
Those orings seal the metering tip preventing false air from being introduced. You'd be well served reinstalling new ones.

THEN get your airbox on and re evaluate from that point.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 06:07 AM   #6
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I'd not be too quick to delete a factory part...especially a pilot screw sealing ring.
Those orings seal the metering tip preventing false air from being introduced. You'd be well served reinstalling new ones.

THEN get your airbox on and re evaluate from that point.
Well yea I wasn’t planning on leaving the washer off indefinitely. Was just wondering if the fact that it’s missing give me the symptoms I’m experiencing. Also have you you guys heard of these? (Look at the attachment) if so what are your thoughts?
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Old February 14th, 2018, 06:43 AM   #7
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It is not going to run without the air box connected.
I was not used to working on CV carbs. They will not take the throttle without the air box. If pods are installed you are going to spend a lot of time working out the rejet.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 11:53 AM   #8
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Well yea I wasn’t planning on leaving the washer off indefinitely. Was just wondering if the fact that it’s missing give me the symptoms I’m experiencing. Also have you you guys heard of these? (Look at the attachment) if so what are your thoughts?
Those don't look like they would fit, I bought some for a harley off of ebay and they worked well.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 02:55 PM   #9
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Easy adjustment mixture???? It's not had to get to, and you set it once, and that's it.

Another BS item, like snake oil
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Old February 14th, 2018, 05:36 PM   #10
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Easy adjustment mixture???? It's not had to get to, and you set it once, and that's it.

Another BS item, like snake oil
I find it useful, no need to look for the bent screwdriver every time I have to rebuild the carbs.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 06:50 PM   #11
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I find it useful, no need to look for the bent screwdriver every time I have to rebuild the carbs.
How often are you rebuilding the carbs?????
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Old February 14th, 2018, 06:56 PM   #12
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At least 2-3 x a year sadly.
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Old February 16th, 2018, 12:09 PM   #13
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Which is another reason I want to join the EFI conversion club.
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Old February 18th, 2018, 05:57 PM   #14
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Not sure why you need to rebuild a carb 2-3 times a year. The only things I can imagine is rusted gas tank, get an inline filter, cheap rebuild kit parts or you are doing something wrong.

I have two injected bikes. One Honda and the other a Harley. The Harley is my road bike. I keep it on a Harley Service plan. The Harley has a tuner, cam mods, intake mods and exhaust. It belchs put almost 90 HP and 101 foot pounds of torque. I can't even set the idle let alone the mixture. You need a computer and the Harley program.
Harley puts on a computer during any engine service.
The other is a Honda Big Ruckus. It is a fuel injected 250cc engine. You have to take what you get. It has no super tuner or any way to alter fuel/air that I know of.

I like carbs. I can tune, clean and rejet them in my sleep.
My old CX500 has carbs. My 305 Honda Dream and Honda Elsenor even have points, holy cow!
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Old February 18th, 2018, 06:04 PM   #15
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I blame it on having E10 for gas & the fact that I don't ride as often as I should,
my 2007 has less than 7000 miles on it. As far as tuning being a non oem efi computer makes thing a lot easier.
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Old February 18th, 2018, 07:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I blame it on having E10 for gas & the fact that I don't ride as often as I should,
my 2007 has less than 7000 miles on it. As far as tuning being a non oem efi computer makes thing a lot easier.
Try adding some Stabil 360 treatment for ethanol gas, and drain the floatbowls if it's going to sit for a while.
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Old February 19th, 2018, 06:19 AM   #17
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When I know I will not be riding for a week of so I run the carbs dry. The exception is the Harley. No shutoff valve I can see. You have to disconnect the fuel line which I would not do.
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Old February 20th, 2018, 12:46 PM   #18
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Thank you,
both are good things to try.
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