badly stripped brake caliper screw

[LoneRonin]

hey guys I stripped the screw bad on the front brake caliper. Its one of the ones that holds the brake pads in place. How the hell can I get it out?? I tried to fit a larger allen key in it once it got rounded out but it just made it worse...

[red5]

You need these.....

Easy-out

Ace, Lowe's, Sears, etc.

and one of these.....

Part number 92043

[alex.s]

grind the head off, take the caliper off, use grips to remove the remaining bolt shaft, replace.

[LoD575]

EZ out will work or could also try tapping a Torx bit into the head and try removing the bolt.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by alex.s

grind the head off, take the caliper off, use grips to remove the remaining bolt shaft, replace.

He can't do that. The allen bolts he's talking about are recessed in when they are tightened down. You can see them out in the picture below. I'm not sure an easy out would work either.


Looks like a used one can be had for around $30

[alex.s]

oh those are the pad alignment screws not caliper bolts. i should read the post

[dfox]

dremel a flathead pattern into it, and buy a new one.

a small easy out might do the trick.

or maybe go buy a reverse thread tap and bolt that will fit into the allen area. "tighten" the reverse threaded bolt in and eventually it will start removing your stripped piece.

[dirty nasty]

Bring it to a good machinist. Seriously. For a small fee they'll save you a LOT of head aches and get you all set. I wouldn't recommend trying to fix this yourself unless if you know what you're doing. However, since you're asking this here, you do not know what you're doing. This is your brakes you're talking about.

I once stripped the caliper body of my last bike (CB450T). A replacement was $200. I wasn't about to pony up that coin. Luckily, my mom's boyfriend was a machinist in his day and knew exactly what we needed to do. The stars aligned and the caliper was able to be saved. However, the first move I was going to make to fix it was going to cost me $200, that's for sure. Some time spent, and knowledge gained, vs. $200, time and even less knowledge gained. What do you think sounds better?

Also, for future reference, this is why you ALWAYS use flare nut wrenches on bleed screws. This eliminates the possibility of them stripping. Also, when bleeding, DO NOT tighten. Think of the bleed screw as an on/off valve. When it lightly seats, it's turned off. Only give it a VERY slight tighten when you're all done bleeding. Calipers are made of VERY soft metal. I learned this the hard way with my CB450. I was barely putting any force on the screw and it ate through the threads in the body of the caliper like it were wet toilet paper.

[tooblekain]

Those pad alignment pins are VERY VERY VERY prone to seizing. A lesson learned the hard way from me due to MULTIPLE times rounding off the heads.

I used this from Harbor Freight...has saved me multiple times.
EDIT: I will post a picture of it when I have the chance or PM me...the website doesnt show them

You need to actually hammer it down a bit so the teeth bites into rounded head, and then use a ratchet or a T-handle...DO NOT use a drill...it will break the extractor and then you're REALLY in for a world of hurt (don't ask me how I know)

A couple things you can do to prevent that.

If you love to take care of your bike and have time, at least once a month remove the caliper from the forks and remove the pads from teh calipers and actually clean the calipers and caliper pistons with an old toothbrush and dishwashing soap and water. Cleaning the pistons will ensure you get even wear on the brake pads. This also ensures that removing the pin will not give it enough time to seize up like it did.

Put anti-seize paste on the threads. Not grease...Anti-Seize paste. A very small amount is all that's needed. This is what I started doing also...no problems ever since. Recently, Dave Moss recommended doing this. (If you don't know who Dave Moss is...google him...). If you are concerned about the pin possibly vibrating out due to having anti seize paste in, drill a small hole on the opposite end of the threads and stick very small cotter pin in. This is standard on the Daytona 675. Who knows...maybe you can get the pins from a Daytona 675 and use them on the Ninjette?

If you are going to be removing that bolt again, spray some PB Blaster Penetrating catalyst and let it soak for 5-10 minutes to hopefully break the bonds causing the bolt to be seized.

[Whiskey]

Originally Posted by tooblekain

Those pad alignment pins are VERY VERY VERY prone to seizing. A lesson learned the hard way from me due to MULTIPLE times rounding off the heads.

I used this from Harbor Freight...has saved me multiple times.
EDIT: I will post a picture of it when I have the chance or PM me...the website doesnt show them

You need to actually hammer it down a bit so the teeth bites into rounded head, and then use a ratchet or a T-handle...DO NOT use a drill...it will break the extractor and then you're REALLY in for a world of hurt (don't ask me how I know)

A couple things you can do to prevent that.

If you love to take care of your bike and have time, at least once a month remove the caliper from the forks and remove the pads from teh calipers and actually clean the calipers and caliper pistons with an old toothbrush and dishwashing soap and water. Cleaning the pistons will ensure you get even wear on the brake pads. This also ensures that removing the pin will not give it enough time to seize up like it did.

Put anti-seize paste on the threads. Not grease...Anti-Seize paste. A very small amount is all that's needed. This is what I started doing also...no problems ever since. Recently, Dave Moss recommended doing this. (If you don't know who Dave Moss is...google him...). If you are concerned about the pin possibly vibrating out due to having anti seize paste in, drill a small hole on the opposite end of the threads and stick very small cotter pin in. This is standard on the Daytona 675. Who knows...maybe you can get the pins from a Daytona 675 and use them on the Ninjette?

If you are going to be removing that bolt again, spray some PB Blaster Penetrating catalyst and let it soak for 5-10 minutes to hopefully break the bonds causing the bolt to be seized.

Copper grease only very light coating at the start of the threads & tightening the bolt in will spread it.

It works at up to 1000°C

[ClovisJacob]

Originally Posted by LoneRonin

hey guys I stripped the screw bad on the front brake caliper. Its one of the ones that holds the brake pads in place. How the hell can I get it out?? I tried to fit a larger allen key in it once it got rounded out but it just made it worse...

Hi LoneRonin, the same thing just happened to me. Did you manage to get it out? What did you do?

I've already ordered a new bolt but the old one is still stuck in it.

Cheers

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by ClovisJacob

Hi LoneRonin, the same thing just happened to me. Did you manage to get it out? What did you do?

I've already ordered a new bolt but the old one is still stuck in it.

Cheers

Good luck. It may be easier to get a used one. I've had 2 do the same thing. Both times I stripped down the caliper to the bare casting then brazed an allen wrench into that pin. Worked fine both times and both calipers are still in service but the procedure may be more than most are willing to undertake.

[adouglas]

FWIW I removed a stripped fairing bolt by hammering an oversized Torx bit into it, then (carefully!) using an impact driver to back the offending little bugger out. Carefully, otherwise the Torx will just strip the hole out even bigger.

Don't know if that technique would work here, given that it's a grub screw. There might not be enough material there.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by LoneRonin

hey guys I stripped the screw bad on the front brake caliper. Its one of the ones that holds the brake pads in place. How the hell can I get it out?? I tried to fit a larger allen key in it once it got rounded out but it just made it worse...

I strongly recommend a machine shop remove it or you have a real risk of ruining the caliper.

[ClovisJacob]

I managed to get it off by hammering a slightly bigger allen key into the screw.

Then I carefully put some pressure on it and it worked! I could remove that bolt and already ordered a new one.

I suspect that happened because it had been a long time since the pads had been replaced (bought this track bike and ex-owner had left it in the garage for 1 year, then I used it for few more track days (about 6 months) and finally replaced the pads now. The calipers were really dirty.

I guess just a bit more attention to it in the future would prevent that to happen again.

Cheers.

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Good luck. It may be easier to get a used one. I've had 2 do the same thing. Both times I stripped down the caliper to the bare casting then brazed an allen wrench into that pin. Worked fine both times and both calipers are still in service but the procedure may be more than most are willing to undertake.

there is that....I just use nuclear anti-seize....yes, I worked for a company that machined parts for the nuclear industry. Stuff works great, sticks like glue, and doesn't goo over the caliper when heated.

but....you may not be able to get your hands on the stuff....

[hfd1 tuner]

Pro-bolt sells some nice replacements hate the little pin bolts they love to get jammed in the caliper.