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Old February 20th, 2012, 02:46 PM   #241
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Old February 20th, 2012, 07:13 PM   #242
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Nice, a commuter like that will get stolen or pieced out within 5 minutes if not chained up with multiple chains..
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Old February 20th, 2012, 11:51 PM   #243
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Lots of nice bikes
I enjoy bicycling also , its fun and a great workout. My bicycles are like me : old and cheap. I have a GT Talero mountain bike and a Centurion road bike. Nothing fancy but they get the job done. I'm astounded how sophisticated and expensive bicycles have become. Id like a mountain bike with a suspension and better brakes but just can't justify spending the big $ to get them.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 05:19 AM   #244
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$460 will get you a Trek 3500 Disc. Front suspension and disc brakes. For $580 you can get a 29-er hardtail.

Wait for a sale and it will go even cheaper. I think a typical sale time is around September/October.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 09:19 AM   #245
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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good bike sale.

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Old February 21st, 2012, 09:43 AM   #246
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Most folks in my neighborhood have trouble paying their heating bills let alone $4-500 on a bicycle.

I volunteer at the local bike co-op ad piece together plenty of old bike with modren components, usually we sell those bikes to the guys who lost their license from DWI and have them serve their community service hours at the co-op, too.

Occasionally, we get some decent aluminum framed bikes that come along from donation and able to put together a nice bike. If you can find a local bike co-op, shouldn't be difficult to built a bike yourself with some minimal valunteering.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 12:52 PM   #247
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I need to snag some new brake cables, other than that, I am done with my bar swap. I felt like I was reaching and putting a lot of weight on my hands. These bars should fix the problem.







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Old February 21st, 2012, 12:54 PM   #248
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Front suspension and disc brakes.
What's your views on hydraulic disks? I'm on my second bike with mechanical disks, and these cables are stretching out quicker than the last ones. Kinda annoying having to replace brake cables. Plus, I'll know how to bleed brake lines in a couple weeks once I install my ss lines on my ninja, so having hydraulics on a mountain bike doesn't seem like such a bad idea
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Old February 21st, 2012, 02:49 PM   #249
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They can be a pain to bleed. My Gary Fisher HiFi has some Avid Elixr CR's. I really like them. Good braking performance and rather robust. The problem is when air does get in the system. All of a sudden you have a brake that goes out and a tree coming at you really fast. Not fun. I have not had it happen to me. My friend has some brakes (I think they are Avid Elixr 3's), but they really stink. His rear brake consistently gets air in it. I told him to upgrade to some higher end Avids, but he keeps trying to work out the problems.

I'll keep my hydraulic's on the Gary Fisher and my cable disc system on my Hardrock sport...they both have pro's and con's. I like the cable on the HR because it is really low maintenance and a very simplistic design. On thing to battle cable stretch is brake earlier and easier. Yanking really hard at the last minute will stretch any cable, disc or rim brakes. I brake hard on the hydraulic system since I know I can. On the cable system, I brake earlier and softer.


Oh, and this may help:
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/brakes/disc-...s_1507crx.aspx
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Old February 21st, 2012, 04:08 PM   #250
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Much appreciated as always Apex. More reading for me.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 04:29 PM   #251
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What's your views on hydraulic disks? I'm on my second bike with mechanical disks, and these cables are stretching out quicker than the last ones. Kinda annoying having to replace brake cables. Plus, I'll know how to bleed brake lines in a couple weeks once I install my ss lines on my ninja, so having hydraulics on a mountain bike doesn't seem like such a bad idea
Hydraulic Disc brakes are awesome, and well worth the extra cost. I've had my Shimano Deore's for 8 years and I've never had to bleed them once. Now that I think about it, I've never done any maintenance to them at all - other than changing the pads, and they still stop great using 1 finger, maybe 2 if its really steep.

And... I store my bike hanging upside down in the garage - which is not advised for hyraulic brakes but, I have a small garage and that was the only room I had. When I got the bike, I just figured there would be problems with them along the way, and I would get a chance to mess with them (and maybe buy new tools ) but, they are still going strong. I put > 700 miles/year on the bike and do a 24 hour race every summer - so they have definately been tested.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 04:36 PM   #252
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Here's me and my baby 2004 Specialized Stumpjumper Expert. Its been a very strong reliable bike but, I would like to get a 29'er.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 06:35 PM   #253
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Nice ride Tommy.

The 29-ers are amazing. They do accelerate more slowly, but that also take more to slow them down. The momentum they carry over obstacles is great. My friends 26" bike feels just a tad more nimble than my GF HiFi 29er. I won't go back to a 26 again.



What extras do you have your bike?
I have:
  • RavX Ergo X bar ends
  • Cateye Urban Wireless computer
  • Bontrager 700x35c tires
  • Topeak Explorer MTX Rack
  • Avenir Metro Panniers (a Topeak MTX trunk bag was the old setup)
  • Wellgo City pedals
  • Cateye HL-EL200 Headlight (constant on)
  • Cateye TL-LD130-R Tail light (constant on)
  • Blackburn Click Front Headlight (flash)
  • Planetbike Superflash Stealth Tail light (flash)
  • Some reflective stickers placed on the bike to increase side reflection for drivers
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Old February 24th, 2012, 03:31 PM   #254
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Apex - thanks, looks like you have quite a few in your stable - I'm really drooling over the Gary Fischer. I'm sure it is a blast downhill but, how is it climbing?

You mentioned needing new brake cables - have you ever tried the XTR cables? I use them for my shifters and I've been really satisfied. You know how normally - you setup your shifters and they work perfect at first but over time, they start ghost shifting, so you adjust, then it happens again, so you adjust etc. Not with the XTR. They just don't stretch. I have to use my Dremel with the diamond blade to cut them to fit the bike - no joke, regular dykes just won't cut it (OK, lame pun intended). I still wind up replacing them once per year because the Stumpjumper has really bad cable routing, and the tubing gets crushed.

My Extra's:
WTB Saddle (love it)
Kenda Nevegal 26x2.3 (love 'em)
Ritchey long seat post (works well)
Night Rider HID Lights handle bar mount (good light and battery but, I had to send the bulb back once to be replaced $100)
Cygolite LED Lights helmet mount (great light and battery)
XT rear-derailleur (technically a downgrade from the XTR the bike came with but, I'm willing to give up a few grams for reliability)
Shimano M520 pedals

I'm old skul - I still like Shimano stuff
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Old February 24th, 2012, 04:17 PM   #255
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cables are all interchangeable right? I might do a new set on XTR cables on my brakes before this season starts if they're better
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Old February 25th, 2012, 02:11 AM   #256
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Tommy - I prefer Shimano for my road bike, but honestly, I love the way the triggers work on the SRAM items over the Shimano for a MTB. The Hardrock has X4's and the HiFi has X7's.

The Gary Fisher climbs like a beast. It is just one of those things you get used to. It is like rootville down here in Houston, so you really can't go wrong with a 29er. Some of the trails are so bad my friend can't even keep me in sight anymore, I just pull away from him and fast.

I can only speak of the few climbs we have over here. There is one climb on a trail that lasts for about 30-40yds. It is so steep that if I don't keep my head about 6" from the handlebars, the bike will lift the front wheel, no matter what gear you are in. The thing just grips like crazy and climbs like a madman.

I just feel the pros of the 29er outweighs the cons. You can always wait and check out the 650B wheels when they really take hold. Word has it that a big bike maker is going to go on a limb and manufacture a 650B bike....
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Old February 25th, 2012, 10:44 AM   #257
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@choneofakind I think you are right about the cables being interchangeable between brands (Shimano and Avid) but, I really don't know. Maybe just buy it from a local bike shop so you can ask them - and easily return it if doesn't fit/work Just a hint when you cut them, hold the cable with a vise-grip because it gets really hot from the Dremel and also the cable tends to unravel once it is cut. I just put a drop of super-glue on the tip after it is cut.

@Apex Thanks for the tip on the 650b wheel size - I hadn't heard about it before - I already started saving for a new bike - maybe next year or 2, so this gives me more options and things to read up on. That hill sounds like a lot of fun. I love finding that balance point between traction and wheely. At the beginning of the season I love the downhills but, I think my favorite part of riding, is climbing once I'm in good enough shape. I rode part of the Slickrock trail once, I just couldn't beleive how well the bike could climb some of those rocks - harder to walk then ride.
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Old February 25th, 2012, 10:50 AM   #258
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@choneofakind I think you are right about the cables being interchangeable between brands (Shimano and Avid) but, I really don't know. Maybe just buy it from a local bike shop so you can ask them - and easily return it if doesn't fit/work Just a hint when you cut them, hold the cable with a vise-grip because it gets really hot from the Dremel and also the cable tends to unravel once it is cut. I just put a drop of super-glue on the tip after it is cut.
I've got Hayes mechanical disk brakes... Hmm I'll go check out the mountain biking forums.

I might just use a dab of solder instead of superglue. That seems like it would work better to me.
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Old February 25th, 2012, 12:57 PM   #259
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After working at bikeshops for over two decades, I always use cable cutter to cut cables, not Dremel.

Cable endcap does better job at preventing cable fraying that solder or superglue.

There are no significant differences between cables from different manufacters, stainless cables tend to have less friction within the housings. Cheaper regular steel cables have "rough" feel in the housing tend to bind up quicker overtime from corrosion build-up.

In the past there were cables tht have GORE lining with specific housing to allow less friction during operation, they were too pricy for their minimmal benefts that only present themselves under tehmosst demanding conditions. They kinda faded away now.


Major difference between cable activated disc vs hydraulic disc brakes is modulation.

Hydraulic brake systems have move powerfull bite, braking force is more of a "on/off" feel at the lever; saves lots of hand strength if you are constantly on the brakes hard, over long distance; i.e. downhill riding.

Cable activated disc brakes tend to have more modulation at your finger tips, your hand strength tend to determine how much braking force you have; harder you squeeze, harder you brake.. If you are constantly on the brake over long distance, you will need lots of hand strength with cable activated disc brakes.
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Old February 25th, 2012, 05:09 PM   #260
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...Cable endcap does better job at preventing cable fraying that solder or superglue...
haha - I was just saying that I use superglue to keep it from unraveling until I can put the endcap on - they only give you one in the kit and you can't re-use them - oh, and I hate running to the store for one more part.

I respect your experience but, I still stand by the XTR cables - I think they make a big difference and are very reliable. I haven't had to adjust my RD on the trail since I've been using them. Now, If I could only keep the housing from getting crushed when going over logs - I'll be set.
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Old February 26th, 2012, 09:03 AM   #261
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Today is my wife's birthday. She wants to go shopping with her mom, and since it is her birthday, she wants me to come as well. I agreed. If her mom goes, then she will head over to her house and grab her. I, on the other hand, will be riding my commuter. It is a great day outside. I can't pass up riding.
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Old February 26th, 2012, 12:37 PM   #262
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Old February 26th, 2012, 03:36 PM   #263
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@ator great set of bikes, I especially love the Hutch. My friend had one just like it when I was growing up. His Mom didn't want to let anyone but him ride it, so it was always a big deal when we would sneak off to our dirt track and take turns on it. That thing rode so nice, well balanced, strong. Of course, we all had Huffy's so, anything would have seemed good in comparison.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 06:10 PM   #264
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Great collection ator!

I just picked up a new bike. I sold my Quick 6 to my brother. It was a compromise for my wife to begin with, and now that she is soon to not be my wife, I got a better bike now than I planned to begin with.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 08:34 PM   #265
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Great collection ator!

I just picked up a new bike. I sold my Quick 6 to my brother. It was a compromise for my wife to begin with, and now that she is soon to not be my wife, I got a better bike now than I planned to begin with.
Nice Madone! I want one, I just am too cheap to get one. Plus I'd feel better about running my 1.5 into the ground before I upgraded.





I can't believe I didn't post this in this thread....I got the new Trek Transport in! I am absolutely LOVING this bike. It has already proven useful.

Towing the road bike to the LBS to get serviced (don't have my workbench built in the new house yet, or a stand to true wheels)


Rear fender install:





Now I just have to sell off my Hardrock Sport. Any takers?
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Old April 13th, 2012, 08:43 PM   #266
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haha - I was just saying that I use superglue to keep it from unraveling until I can put the endcap on - they only give you one in the kit and you can't re-use them - oh, and I hate running to the store for one more part.

I respect your experience but, I still stand by the XTR cables - I think they make a big difference and are very reliable. I haven't had to adjust my RD on the trail since I've been using them. Now, If I could only keep the housing from getting crushed when going over logs - I'll be set.
Once I get my workbench area built, I'll purchase endcaps. What I used to secure the cable ends was called Liquid Metal. It dried solidly. I used that on the fixie before I sold it. It will work until the guy gets an endcap.

I plan to have the workbench built by this summer. After the MS150 next week I'll start working on drawing up plans.
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:03 AM   #267
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Nice Madone!
Thanks.
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I want one, I just am too cheap to get one. Plus I'd feel better about running my 1.5 into the ground before I upgraded.
Well, I was just pushin my Quick 6 for more than it was worth. My schedule opened up a bit since I am part-time now to have the flexible schedule I need to finish school, so I have been able to ride four days a week again, instead of limiting it to a single long weekend ride. I was just beating the 6 up and asking for more than it could reasonably give me. Great bike for someone who isn't pushing as hard as I do though.

My brother was looking to buy a bike so he can get back in shape and I offered him mine if he liked it and he decided he did and bought it. I wasn't initially planning to spend more that $1,000 on a new bike, but then I saw the Madone 3.1 for $1,775 at my LBS which is as inexpensive as I could find it online, and considerably lower than MSRP. So yesterday I went to the LBS and test rode the Madone, a Synapse in the $1,400 range (forget which but it was aluminum), and a Trek 2.1 at the same price point as the Cannondale.

I wasn't initially sure the Madone was worth the $500 more over the Synapse or 2.1, but after leaving to go eat some lunch and then testing them all back to back afterwards, the Madone just accelerated so easily, the frame damped vibrations, and it loved to be thrown into a corner fast. The fact that I have 30 days to return it if I decide I don't like it sold me.

The only problem now is I need some pedals and cleats, but that has to wait a few months.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 10:55 AM   #268
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Bicycles!

Hey guys I know @Apex is into biking is anyone else? Im debating if I want to try and start riding a bicycle to work. Problem is I do not have one.

Suggestions? I kind of want a hybrid so I could also go mountain bike riding with my brother in law and my buddy... But A road bike would be nice to because its a decent little ride...

obviously thats not my house but its nearby. I cant have you guys knowing where I live

but essentially that would be my 5 day a week ride. Suggestions appreciated. My budget is SMALL like max $300 :/
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Old June 12th, 2012, 05:29 PM   #269
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im actually in the market for a road bike or fixie. got to ride my brothers one last week and wow....i can actually keep up/pass traffic in a 30mph zone
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Old June 12th, 2012, 05:40 PM   #270
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Ride your SM.


Good luck finding a quality bike for under $300.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 06:04 PM   #271
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Im not asking for a top of the line bike. Just a decent one. It could be old too. I just dont know what to look for.

the SM doesnt help me lose weight and live a healthier life style. lol
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Old June 12th, 2012, 06:41 PM   #272
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Around here, a decent hybrid tends to be a bit more expensive than a decent mountain bike. Take a trip to a couple of your local bike shops to get sized up and test ride a few to give you a better idea. Sometimes they have good quality used ones as well.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 07:33 PM   #273
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Ride your SM.


Good luck finding a quality bike for under $300.
He can find an excellent bike on craigslist for $300. Especially in norcal.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 08:39 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by massacremasses View Post
Im not asking for a top of the line bike. Just a decent one. It could be old too. I just dont know what to look for.

the SM doesnt help me lose weight and live a healthier life style. lol

Just get a bike form like Wal-Mart or Target. I doubt you will stick with this idea. So when you are tired of riding your bicycle to work after two days it won't hurt as bad when you only lost like $200 dollars.


Here is another idea. Start running. Get some nice running shoes and go for a run every other day before or after work. Whichever fits into your schedule. You will want to start eating healthier and drink plenty of water. And you will lose those thunder thighs you currently squeeze into your skinny jeans. And best of all. You still get to ride your SM to work!
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Old June 12th, 2012, 09:30 PM   #275
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hahahahaha

I have been working out, but I want to add more cardio to my routine and I HATE running. So thats not really an option because I KNOW I wont stick with that, and I actually miss riding bikes...
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Old June 13th, 2012, 04:46 PM   #276
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YOU GUYS ARE NO HELP

Cant a man just try and get fit and get a sexy ass beach body...


jk, but kind of serious I need to get fit.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 04:51 PM   #277
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Honestly, I just went to walmart last week and bought a $89 bike. it's not bad if its just for cruising. You can get a decent one for under 300. Unless you want like a professional/pro bike. I had a Next bike and that lasted me years and I rode literally every day for hours. I agree though, biking makes you skinny. I was so skinny, then I started driving and it was all down hill from there. :-\
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Old June 13th, 2012, 06:52 PM   #278
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Ok, speaking as a guy who has looked at Walmart bikes in the past, DO NOT BUY THEM!

We got simple BMX bikes for a niece and nephew last Christmas. I spent about 2 hours on my nieces bike and an hour on my nephews to adjust what they messed up. Bike shops don't want to work on these bikes, they are very heavy too.

Honestly, I'd go with a CL route or see if you have a local public surplus auction. You can hit up a local bike shop and walk out with a Trek 3-series for around $450 brand new. Another option is the Trek 820, which runs around $360. My little brother got a Trek DS 8.2 for just under $600.

A used 29-er hard tail would do the exact same thing as the DS. The 29-ers can run a 700c tire. Mine runs 700x35c on my Hardrock Sport. Nice thing about the 29-ers, you have the front suspension, they should be relatively easy to find, and they are versatile. A simple tire swap goes from street commuter to trail ready.

Hope that helps.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 08:41 PM   #279
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what size should I be looking at? im short. Inseam of about 30-31 or something like that depending on the shoes im wearing lol

so what size should I get?

like this
http://chico.craigslist.org/bik/3029949803.html

i just dont know what size it is...
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Old June 13th, 2012, 09:21 PM   #280
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Hybrid = fail. Not terribly good for the trail, not terribly good for the road.

I cycle to work whenever I don't feel like dodging Los Angeles traffic - if I time it right I can cut through the mountains, get a beautiful view of the Pacific above Malibu, race down the hills through the swankiest neighbourhoods, split lanes past the cars, and get to work by 8am

Trek bicycles are good for the money to start on. My beater mountain bike is a Trek - I got it for about $400 new. Used bikes can be awesome! CL is good, check www.re-cycle.com and ask at your local bike shop too
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