do i have carb prob

[davidw38901]

05 250r yusi slip on just did valve adjust
PRob is sputtering at half throttle it did it some before valve adjustment
Now it's worse now if I apply full choke it does not sputter
And if I wot it does not sputter so I think something wrong with the
Needle.... running lean what u think no Carb work has been done...
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[greg737]

First a little sarcasm: No doubt you've got a carb problem. It's 2012, the whole world is fuel injected, if you've still got carbs you've got a problem.

And now for some constructive advice:

It's pretty hit-or-miss to try and "talk you through" your carb issues in a forum thread, but that's okay because we've got a metric sh!t-load of information available to help you learn about your carbs so you can make intelligent decisions and do good work on your EX-250.

The best thing you can do is read through this "wisdom of the ages" to become educated about your bike's carbs, how to work on them, what the individual parts do, common problems, etc. There's no substitute for becoming "educated" on the subject.

Start here: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake

Or, if getting educated isn't your thing there's always the time-tested alternative to learning about something, and that's to simply throw money at it until you get results. Off to the dealership you go.

[greg737]

Here's an example of what I'm talking about.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=98983

Recently this thread ran to three full pages of posts over a timeline of two full months while the bike's owner struggled along trying everything anybody suggested. Several times he was on the edge of getting rid of the bike.

How did it end? You can read through the thread, it's an interesting trip, but I'll go ahead and tell you that it turned out his carbs where actually missing two pieces! These two parts were apparently left out of the carbs by the guy he bought the bike from, so it wasn't his fault.

[n4mwd]

Did you add the new exhaust and then started having the problem? Any time you mess with the exhaust or intake on the bike, it can change the way fuel is consumed in the bike. That means that you need to adjust your needles.

From your description, the bike sounds like it is running lean. If the bike was running fine after the exhaust mod, but now isn't, then you have a clogged carb and need to remove it and clean it.

If the bike has been sitting for an extended period with fuel in the carbs, then its probably clogged. If the bike will sit for more than 2 weeks, the carbs should be drained or run dry. Draining is preferable, but running it dry is more fun.

[alex.s]

sounds like the bike doesnt have an air filter or something

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by davidw38901

.....PRob is sputtering at half throttle it did it some before valve adjustment
Now it's worse now if I apply full choke it does not sputter
And if I wot it does not sputter so I think something wrong with the
Needle.... running lean what u think no Carb work has been done...

Is the bike doing this right after you start it up or after the bike is warm while you are riding along? The reason I ask is that you say the bike stutters. Do you mean "surge", as if it wants to go more or "stutter" like it wants to cut off? Why would you suspect the needles if no carb work was done?

[davidw38901]

ok guys was at work when i first posted...so more details::

got the bike with the yusi on it i really don't think anyone been in the carbs...bike has 5k miles by the way...so when i got it the probleam was very slight and the engine sounded like it was ticking

so first thing i did was valve adjustment i have every valve but one in loose spec... the only one i did not get is in tight spec... that would be if sitting on the bike the exhaught valve in the most upper right corner... could not get my reg 9mm in there maybe i need a deep well i don't know i had to bolt her back up...time was running out for that day

so the clicking sound is much softer now....
but the bike does the following after about 7.5k worst at 8.5krpm it fells like enging brakeing allmost like someone tapping on the brake 5 times a second
and the exhaust makes a popping noise
it does this when cold or warmed up

but let say i am testing it out i hold the rpm at 8k and pull the choke all the way down the popping stops and the bike does not have that slight jerking feeling anymore.. the bike also seems to just run better with the choke on.. but it idles at like 5k....not good...

i don't know if it does have a air filter or not lol...i know
but i was planning on ripping the airbox out putting pods and put new mains shimming needle my next day off...

so i think it's the needle cloged...not set right because of the yusi.. because i have no prob at 1/4 throttle or full throttle...

now should i go in there clean the carbs run wire thrugh everything throw 3or4 washers under needle to see if it work right then go for the airbox delete to pods and jets...
does the probleam i am haveing sound like carbs if i have to pull the carb be easyier just to do everything at once but if it's not the carbs what could it be? because then i would have 2 probleams getting bike tuned right and this...

[n4mwd]

The bike will run a lot better once you clean the carbs. Like you said, do it when you add the pods and new jets.

As far as the valve adjustment, a few things you need to know.... First and foremost, don't overtorque the adjustment nuts. It will start a chain reaction that destroys the engine. Second, adjust them to middle spec or slightly wider than middle spec. Adjusting them tight is not good and they should all be approximately the same adjustment.

To get at the exhaust nuts, a deep well socket pushes the cam over to the wrong spot for adjustment. Instead, use a standard 9mm with a 1/4" extension on it. You can turn the crank a little to get it in there, but once its in, you can turn the crank back to the mark. A lot of people use the Kawi tool which costs about $50. I always use the marks. I don't think you get an accurate job trying to eyeball it.

As far as the ticking. Its probably not the valves or the rod bearings or what not. Its actually the clutch basket. It has rubber bushings in there that cannot be shimmed or replaced. They decompose seemingly the first time oil is added to the engine and start banging the sides causing the ticking sound. Bottom line, don't worry about it, after a while the ticking blends into your subconscious and you stop hearing it.

To verify that its the clutch basket, start the engine and let it idle with the ticking, clutch pulled, front brake pulled, 1st gear, then let off on the clutch a tad just to put a light load against the front brake. If its the clutch basket, the ticking will temporarilly disappear.

[davidw38901]

so i rubberband a sock to my phone and went for a ride in 2nd gear while i held the rpm around 8k... just you guys can hear what i hear...


http://youtu.be/IR8IhPn_ywk

i can clearly hear the popping noise but i know what to listen for.. can you hear it? i can hear it best at 1:00

and i tryed the exp with the clutch basket.... http://youtu.be/eAxodugAvPc

[DaBlue1]

The carbs also make a ticking noise as well which also can be a normal sound.
There is also a possibility that you have a slight slide rattle, which can be heard more at idle and tends to go away when throttle is applied. Even though we have Keihin carbs this info about slide rattle from Mikuni may help a little since they work similar. http://www.mikuni.com/c-faq.html
Also some info from Factory Pro. http://www.factorypro.com/tech/needle_jet_wear.html
To me, it sounds like your rattle may be somewhere in or near the exhaust, but also some from the engine. You may have to really try to pinpoint where it is the loudest. (exhaust or upper cylinder head)

[n4mwd]

Don't worry about the popping and running rough stuff until your carbs are cleaned, rebuilt, shimmed and such. Regarding the ticking, it sounds like clutch basket ticking, but its hard to say from the video. When you adjust your valves, this this should remove any doubt.

On rare occasions, the ticking can be caused by a loose cam chain adjuster. You'll be able to feel if the cam chain is tight when you do the valves. Remove the adjuster, stretch the spring a little and put it back. There is probably a FAQ around here somewhere that will show you the exact process. Not very difficult at all.

[davidw38901]

so i was rideing today all sudden i started leaking coolant....
the video i watched the guy took the the metal pipe between the 2 cyl off
i have another o ring from the oil filter but what i want to know is there anything besides putting a new o ring to make sure that pipe does not leak.. and is there a certain kind of way to put it on?...thy guys....

[n4mwd]

Where exactly was it leaking? This is the first time I have heard of a coolant leak on a Ninja. There may be an underlying issue causing the leak. Are you using the proper antifreeze mixture?

[davidw38901]

when i took the valve cover off i took the metal pipe that has coolant going threw it out too..

now i have coolant leaking from were that pipe goes into the engine i know the o ring that comes with a oil filter will fit but i want to use that and something else if i have to and if there is some special way to put that pipe back ?

[davidw38901]

so i took the valve cover off did the last ajust on that valve i could not get to..
put new o ring on the coolant pipe...
get this when i took that pipe off there was no o ring :O on it were it went no idea

so now all valve are in spec...

test ride = it rides even rougher now in that middle range errrr... still does great wot..and 1/4....waiting on all my parts to come in to tear into the carbs....

[n4mwd]

I usually don't pull out that pipe when I do the valves on mine. Nevertheless, there had to be an O ring in there some where or it would have been pouring out before. That worries me a little in that it was probably still inside there somewhere. I can't say for sure, but I would definitely watch the temp gauge for overheating in case the original o-ring gets stuck somewhere and clogs up the works.

To get new o-rings in there, just lube them up a bit before you put them in. Most auto grade o-rings are gas/oil resistant so oil is fine for that purpose.

[davidw38901]

so i thought i got all my parts for the jet kit... for some odd reason i ordered only 3 jets i guess i thought my carbs only needed one lol i know ...

but i found out why i was popping and surging...seems the boots from airbox to carbs had came loose if they were ever tight....dam prev owner...

so i cleaned the carbs put 3 washers under needles put a kn air filter..
still got the 105.. in there and the idle plugs are still in....

bike not running right in 1/4 throttle.. seems to be lacking at half but is better than before but wot seems great!! no popping... so what do you guys think just up it to the 108's? and adjust the idle screw?

[alex.s]

while the bike is running adjust the air mix screws so the bike idles at the highest rpm. once you are done set the idle to spec. if that doesn't help, you might need a bigger pilot jet