November 8th, 2021, 10:51 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Leo
Location: Perth, Australia+
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 56
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Outback Ninja Struggling a little - Similar to Detrailer's
Outback Ninja is getting close to its debut, so I think I need to address this performance issue.
-Bike runs a lot better when hot -Seems to struggle switching between RPM ranges -Doesn't like too much throttle in low RPMs Here is a video of it running: https://youtu.be/iZgC1WUhIco Context of video: -Was ridden around block twice 20 mins before -Petcock not working see https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=367649 -Have done carb clean -Holes for adjustment were already drilled out when carbs pulled out I would be fine with this but because first gear is high, the low RPMs are needed for the rougher terrain where I need to slow down.
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November 9th, 2021, 01:45 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Leo
Location: Perth, Australia+
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 56
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Update: Fixed Petcock, problem remains
^
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November 9th, 2021, 05:50 AM | #3 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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If the carbs are really clean, the stumbling when you slam the throttle open should be able to be corrected by adjusting the idle mixture screws. Have you set them to max idle speed, then a small amount richer?
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November 9th, 2021, 08:57 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Leo
Location: Perth, Australia+
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 56
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No, I will try that. What is the quickest way to pull the carbs out for you? Airbox out of back and carbs as well? I really do not want to damage the hoses...
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November 10th, 2021, 05:48 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Gordon
Location: new york
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): '95 DUCATI 900SS/SP '07 DUCATI SS800 '19 HONDA CBR650R Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Nov '18, Mar '17
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Why you ask now about carb removal?
pilot screws require to be adjusted with carbs in place, running, and temp full hot, no?
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gordon@customcarbservices.com Custom Carb Service www.customcarbservices.com |
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November 10th, 2021, 04:59 PM | #6 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021 Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 343
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Quote:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do...dle_mixture%3F |
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November 10th, 2021, 09:38 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Yeah, I use these:
Or this is better as you won't burn yourself on hot engine. https://www.dimecitycycles.com/carb-...ting-tool.html |
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November 22nd, 2021, 07:06 AM | #8 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Leo
Location: Perth, Australia+
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 56
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Quote:
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November 22nd, 2021, 07:06 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Leo
Location: Perth, Australia+
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 56
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Because I think they will be coming out a lot unfortunately
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November 22nd, 2021, 09:43 AM | #10 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Drew
Location: SoCal
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 SV650S 2005 EX250F Posts: 486
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Quote:
Also, like spooning a tire on a rim, if you're breaking a sweat removing carbs then you're probably doing it wrong. Once you get the airbox loosened up and the boots out, the carbs are a 10-15 minute hassle-free job. It pains me to see so many people ask about pod filters just because they struggle with the factory airbox It's not hard... people just make it hard.
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November 22nd, 2021, 09:52 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Trick to removing and installing carbs in less than 10-minutes is to remove only left manifold boot. This frees up lots of space to slide carbs out. Also leave right manifold boot clamped to head. Makes more room that way without it getting in way.
I've had to remove carbs multiple times at 1st race of season to desperately clean them due to letting it sit over winter. Also optimum jetting requires downsizing main jets during lunch due to hotter weather in afternoon. Without emergency cleaning, that's still 4x in 2-days. No problem at all if you focus on using efficient procedures. |
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December 5th, 2021, 11:56 PM | #12 |
Retired motorcycle Mc.
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc,2001 Honda XR650L. Posts: A lot.
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Adjusting the Air screws on the ninja sounds to me like what is needed on the video.... their just a tad too lean....
I set mine to what the manual said and regretted it it didn't even want to start ! but after opening up each air screw 1/2 turn it started to run fairly good but you need to watch the tach and turn the air screw and peak the RPM's while adjusting the air screws... I used the smallest slot screw driver tip of my bit-type screw driver and turned it with a long pare of needle nose plyers from under the carbs the left one was easy , the right one was a real P.I.T.A on my bike.... but using a small bit type screw driver tip worked for me after I ground it a small amount on the sides to fit into the hole where the air screws are... .... I added a nut to the bottom of the bit to make it bigger in diameter to turn it easier which helped alot... I just crushed the nut onto the bit with the bench vice. .....good luck ! Bob......
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