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Old November 8th, 2021, 10:51 PM   #1
Leonardo Lupo
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Outback Ninja Struggling a little - Similar to Detrailer's

Outback Ninja is getting close to its debut, so I think I need to address this performance issue.

-Bike runs a lot better when hot
-Seems to struggle switching between RPM ranges
-Doesn't like too much throttle in low RPMs

Here is a video of it running: https://youtu.be/iZgC1WUhIco
Context of video:
-Was ridden around block twice 20 mins before
-Petcock not working see https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=367649
-Have done carb clean
-Holes for adjustment were already drilled out when carbs pulled out

I would be fine with this but because first gear is high, the low RPMs are needed for the rougher terrain where I need to slow down.
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Old November 9th, 2021, 01:45 AM   #2
Leonardo Lupo
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Update: Fixed Petcock, problem remains

^
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Old November 9th, 2021, 05:50 AM   #3
Triple Jim
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If the carbs are really clean, the stumbling when you slam the throttle open should be able to be corrected by adjusting the idle mixture screws. Have you set them to max idle speed, then a small amount richer?
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Old November 9th, 2021, 08:57 PM   #4
Leonardo Lupo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
If the carbs are really clean, the stumbling when you slam the throttle open should be able to be corrected by adjusting the idle mixture screws. Have you set them to max idle speed, then a small amount richer?
No, I will try that. What is the quickest way to pull the carbs out for you? Airbox out of back and carbs as well? I really do not want to damage the hoses...
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Old November 10th, 2021, 05:48 AM   #5
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Why you ask now about carb removal?

pilot screws require to be adjusted with carbs in place, running, and temp full hot, no?
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Old November 10th, 2021, 04:59 PM   #6
shspvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo Lupo View Post
No, I will try that. What is the quickest way to pull the carbs out for you? Airbox out of back and carbs as well? I really do not want to damage the hoses...
See this page on tool you can use
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do...dle_mixture%3F
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Old November 10th, 2021, 09:38 PM   #7
DannoXYZ
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Yeah, I use these:



Or this is better as you won't burn yourself on hot engine.

https://www.dimecitycycles.com/carb-...ting-tool.html
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 07:06 AM   #8
Leonardo Lupo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Yeah, I use these:



Or this is better as you won't burn yourself on hot engine.

https://www.dimecitycycles.com/carb-...ting-tool.html
Ok, I didn't know they could be adjusted while in. Thought there wouldnt be enough room. I guess there is a tool for everything!
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 07:06 AM   #9
Leonardo Lupo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
Why you ask now about carb removal?

pilot screws require to be adjusted with carbs in place, running, and temp full hot, no?
Because I think they will be coming out a lot unfortunately
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 09:43 AM   #10
thedrewski86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo Lupo View Post
Because I think they will be coming out a lot unfortunately
It may feel like that now, but once you get them fully cleaned and you're riding the bike regularly I bet you won't have to mess with them for a while. I had mine in/out a half dozen times when I first got the bike in the garage, but now it just starts up and idles without any drama. Fresh gas and a lot of riding will keep them consistent.

Also, like spooning a tire on a rim, if you're breaking a sweat removing carbs then you're probably doing it wrong. Once you get the airbox loosened up and the boots out, the carbs are a 10-15 minute hassle-free job. It pains me to see so many people ask about pod filters just because they struggle with the factory airbox It's not hard... people just make it hard.
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 09:52 AM   #11
DannoXYZ
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Trick to removing and installing carbs in less than 10-minutes is to remove only left manifold boot. This frees up lots of space to slide carbs out. Also leave right manifold boot clamped to head. Makes more room that way without it getting in way.

I've had to remove carbs multiple times at 1st race of season to desperately clean them due to letting it sit over winter. Also optimum jetting requires downsizing main jets during lunch due to hotter weather in afternoon. Without emergency cleaning, that's still 4x in 2-days. No problem at all if you focus on using efficient procedures.
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Old December 5th, 2021, 11:56 PM   #12
Bob KellyIII
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Adjusting the Air screws on the ninja sounds to me like what is needed on the video.... their just a tad too lean....
I set mine to what the manual said and regretted it it didn't even want to start !
but after opening up each air screw 1/2 turn it started to run fairly good
but you need to watch the tach and turn the air screw and peak the RPM's while adjusting the air screws... I used the smallest slot screw driver tip of my bit-type screw driver and turned it with a long pare of needle nose plyers from under the carbs the left one was easy , the right one was a real P.I.T.A on my bike.... but using a small bit type screw driver tip worked for me after I ground it a small amount on the sides to fit into the hole where the air screws are...
.... I added a nut to the bottom of the bit to make it bigger in diameter to turn it easier which helped alot... I just crushed the nut onto the bit with the bench vice.
.....good luck !
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