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Old September 2nd, 2018, 10:27 PM   #1
1PaulSilva
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Start Up / Idle Issue After Driven Block Off Plate Install

2013 Ninja 300

I just installed the Smog Block Off Plate from Driven Racing and I am having some issues starting the bike it now idles very low.

1) Removed OEM Plate, left Reed Valves in place and installed the Driven Plate.
2) Removed Hoses associated with the OEM Plate and PAIR Valve.
3) Capped the hole left on the Airbox with supplied Cap from Driven.
4) Left PAIR Valve plugged in as to not throw an Error Light.
5) Removed Evap Canister and associated Hoses.
6) Rerouted the Hose from the Blue Dot on Fuel Tank that went to the top of the Evap Canister to the Throttle Body where the Hose at the bottom of the Evap Canister went.
7) Valve also left in place as to not throw an Error Light.

To get it started I have to open the throttle a substantial amount or turn the idle screw way in to bring idle up far enough to stay running. The throttle response is on point with no hesitation.

So I have a couple questions:

1) Has anyone figured out what size Diode would be required to bypass the PAIR Valve or shall I just order the one from Smart Moto?
2) If the PAIR Valve is left in place should the ports be capped or left open?
3) Same questions for the Valve at the Evap Canister.

I will be purchasing a PCV or PCFC very soon, will this rectify the problem?
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2013 Ninja 300, 2009 Ninja 250R, 2006 Heritage Softail, 2003 CBR600RR, 2001 XR100R, 1995 Dyna Super-Glide, 1984 VF750C, 1984 VF700C, 1982 CB650

Last futzed with by 1PaulSilva; September 4th, 2018 at 02:37 PM.
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Old September 3rd, 2018, 11:53 AM   #2
1PaulSilva
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Update:
After holding the throttle open long enough to warm up the engine, the RPM's rise enough to idle on it's own.
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Old September 3rd, 2018, 11:11 PM   #3
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What is your intended purpose and desired result in doing this mod?

1. Not diode, but resistor. Do you know the difference and why? If not, I really don’t think you should be doing this mod. Amount of time risk and detrimental downsides are extremely large for zero benefits.

2-3. Plugged/capped because there is no longer any flow through. Keep insides clean of dirt and debris in order for to restore system to original functionality.

4. No, PCV or PCFC requires fully functioning EFI system in order to work. Trying to tune an out-of-whack system will just make it worse.


Even better is to go with fully programmable EFI system such as Microsquirt. A LOT more functionally over piggyback/interceptor units. You get more advanced features such as independent 3D maps of ignition and fuel. Unlimited number of maps to select from. Wide-band O2-sensor input and auto-tuning. Datalogging for safe and precise analysis and tuning back at shop. Costs less too.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; September 4th, 2018 at 12:40 AM.
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Old September 3rd, 2018, 11:33 PM   #4
1PaulSilva
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Did this mod to my 2009 250R that had complete exhaust, DynoJet Carb Rejet, and Airbox removal, I was impressed. Ran better, cleaner exhaust sound with no more popping on decel, engine compartment less cluttered and got rid of some weight.

1) Relax with the !
Yes I actually do know the difference, I used the word diode because it was listed as such when I searched SmartMoto
"Pair Smog Valve Removal Kit With Block off Plate Kawasaki EX Ninja 300 /krt. 1 product rating ... Awesome for this kit to include the sensor delete diode." Thanks for your concern though.

2-3) Found this so I will just remove the valve completely.

4) Where are you finding a Microsquirt Module for this bike?
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Old September 4th, 2018, 12:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1PaulSilva View Post
Did this mod to my 2009 250R that had complete exhaust, DynoJet Carb Rejet, and Airbox removal, I was impressed. Ran better, cleaner exhaust sound with no more popping on decel, engine compartment less cluttered and got rid of some weight.
Need to separate benefits of each mod. Exhaust and dynojet kit gave you 20-25% more power which is noticeable.

Airbox gains zilch. PAIR only functions on coasting, so zero performance benefits in removing. I have it on both my street bike and race bike. Popping on race bike was caused by clogged diaphragm in coast-enricher, tiny piece of grit smaller than grain of sand did it. Street bike never pops.

You have to ask yourself how much is your time worth? How much at your hourly wages are you wasting? For me it's easy because it's time per second saved on track. For much less time and effort, i shaved stock 375 down to 320 in a weekend. That's good for about 5s/lap. I'm not going to waste that much time and effort saving 1.5-lbs but needing 20-hrs to troubleshoot PAIR. Hell, i'll just spend one of those hours working and buy lithium battery to save 4-lbs instead.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 12:26 AM   #6
1PaulSilva
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I see your point on your time as you see it. I engineered houses for 12 years, I am now disabled due to PTSD and Crohn's Disease so I have some free time on my hands and a very busy mind. When I am healthy all I due is race dirt, street, restore and build bikes so placing value on my time is not something I consider when I am doing what I enjoy and what releases the adrenaline built up from PTSD Fight or Flight Mode.

Thanks for your help.

https://www.ninja40***********m/foru...r-removal.html
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Old September 4th, 2018, 12:53 AM   #7
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Sorry, ADHD makes me all off or all on!!! Also keeps me up at night.

Microsquirt can be found at DIY-Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/meg...ed/microsquirt
Functionally same as Megasquirt-2 and all tuning techniques are same. Tonnes of forums and community support for Megasquirt

Converting 300 is extremely easy since you can re-use all sensor and EFI components such as pump, injectors, ignition, etc. Here's some related

https://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250...on-anyone.html
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54500

Can expect a 10% bump in power with no physical mods from just fine-tuning fuel & ignition maps
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Old September 4th, 2018, 01:10 AM   #8
1PaulSilva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Sorry, ADHD makes me all off or all on!!! Also keeps me up at night.
Ah man, I totally understand why do you think I am still awake lol. Seriously though thank you for your help. I will be researching the links you provided and it looks like purchasing Microsquirt. I'll keep you posted, its time for a ride to the coast sick of this toxic valley. Have a good one and thanks again.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 06:13 AM   #9
Sulman
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I was tempted to remove it on my 300 if only because it's such an obstruction between the valve cover and frame; the reed valve itself was also absolutely filthy at 20K miles.

The popping doesn't bug me so much. That little plug is handy; I was wondering if there was something like that.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 10:03 AM   #10
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You're most welcome! Here are some links to Mega/Microsquirt forums with great tech and tuning info:

https://www.diyautotune.com/support
http://www.megamanual.com/forums.htm
http://www.msextra.com/forums

For wideband O2-sensor, I recommend digital unit with on-board datalogging (no laptop required). I suggest no display gauge for safety. Capture all data while staying safe with your eyes on road. Then take logs back to cave for analysis. Logs also much more accurate than trying to eyeball gauge.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 03:26 PM   #11
1PaulSilva
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SmartMoto was able to help me out with this. I am waiting on the valve eliminators that disable the error codes associated with removing the valves. For now I capped off the necessary ports while waiting for the parts from SmartMoto. Tried starting it this morning and it fired up as quick as could be, idled steady, throttle is responsive, exhaust sounds noticeably cleaner, the Check Engine light is on but will go off as soon as I plug in the valve eliminators. Total weight difference with parts removed and parts added was approximately 3.4lbs.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/pict...ictureid=13528
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/pict...ictureid=13532
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/pict...ictureid=13529
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/pict...ictureid=13530
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/pict...ictureid=13531
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Old September 4th, 2018, 03:37 PM   #12
DannoXYZ
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Ah, jolly good show!!!





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Old September 4th, 2018, 04:19 PM   #13
1PaulSilva
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Thanks for your help! Microsquirt soon to follow, thanks for the links. Is it cool if I pick your brain when it arrives since you have experience with it?
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2013 Ninja 300, 2009 Ninja 250R, 2006 Heritage Softail, 2003 CBR600RR, 2001 XR100R, 1995 Dyna Super-Glide, 1984 VF750C, 1984 VF700C, 1982 CB650
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Old September 5th, 2018, 01:34 AM   #14
DannoXYZ
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Sure! I'm doing conversion now actually. Have also Megasquirted and boosted quite a few autos. Although i usually go with Electromotive TEC or MoTeC for those.
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