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Old September 18th, 2016, 08:10 PM   #1
cuong-nutz
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Impaktech Stunt Crash Cage

I seized on an opportunity to purchase one for a discounted price during the Black Friday sale. Production takes time as these are made to order for the most part and considering the majority do not want to splurge on something of this nature and it's not a highly sought commodity amongst the masses.

Great packaging.
Powder coating looks great although there's a joint that is kind of thin and missed which showed some rusting after sitting in storage.

There's no instruction with the kit and it's kind of a no brainer on how to install it. The only issue you will come about is finding where to cut the hole for the cage to pass through the fairings.

Here's the parts out of the storage. what you see is a new hardware kit that includes the bolt that I had lost. The one they sent me was the wrong length, but that was quickly resolved.



I originally purchased a hole saw but that didn't work as it did not have a pilot drill to prevent the saw from walking which lift me with my dremel to use to cut the hole. To find the hole, what I did was punch the engine bolt out until it hit the fairing. Unfortunately, what I failed to realize was that the weight of the engine put leverage the bolt through the other side of the engine mount bracket which left my hole at the wrong location. Oh well. I'll get you a close approximate location for all you perfectionists who cringe at cutting up a perfectly flawless fairing. Just not now. I do have picture so you can deduce your own measurement.




I highly recommend that you insert the engine bolt from the left side to the right side. Reason being, this will save you time when you do valve checks and adjustments.

Insert the rear frame through hole bolts with the threads facing out because you'll have a hell of a time trying to tighten things down with no line of sight nor reach. Hand tightening this first will give you a second set of hands so you don't have to do a balancing act.

This aluminum spacer is just so the cage doesn't smash into your oil feed line.









My complaints and concerns:

The main bar needs to hug the body line sooner or closer as my knee shins constantly bang up against it when coming to a stop and dropping the leg. I recall one time at a light I couldn't remember where my rearset shifter was since I had mentally readjusted to not hitting the bar. Slight learning curve. I have mentioned it to Impaktech for them to make improvements in the near future that this could break bones in a bad mishap.







They also informed me that the new designs included a welded nut in the cage to make installation and removal easier as currently, trying to install the washer and nut on the engine through bolt INSIDE the cage tube rather tricky. I used a magnetic pick up stick along with a long screw driver to get the washer over the bolt.

Also, to secure the slider pucks, self tapping sheetmetal screws are included. I had trouble getting the screws to thread properly. That or my power drill was low on battery. I recommend that you drill pilot holes first.










The cage will save your fairings from scratches/breaks. It will save your handle bars/clip-ons, but I cannot say it will save you from rearset frame damage along with your exhaust. I have not tested a hard drop and I dare not test it yet in fear of breaking the cast motor bolt through hole.
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Old September 18th, 2016, 08:25 PM   #2
JohnnyBravo
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Sweet review!
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Old September 19th, 2016, 03:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
......... I have not tested a hard drop and I dare not test it yet in fear of breaking the cast motor bolt through hole.
How do the low anchoring points are put together?
The long bolt with the black sleeve?
Does that bolt anchor to any solid part of the bike or does it make a floating bridge?
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Old September 19th, 2016, 03:51 PM   #4
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@Abu_Mishary, you were looking for some crash bars?
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Old September 19th, 2016, 06:46 PM   #5
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@Abu_Mishary, you were looking for some crash bars?
Thanx Teri.

I'm more interested in the race rails after seeing their images. Price is quite cheap. I'll try to inquire them further on the shipping fee part.
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Old September 20th, 2016, 09:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
How do the low anchoring points are put together?
The long bolt with the black sleeve?
Does that bolt anchor to any solid part of the bike or does it make a floating bridge?
The lower bar provides the third point of contact. It keeps the cage as whole from flexing as much from impact. It's a bar with nuts welded to the ends and bolts the lower points of the cage together to the opposite side.

It hugs the fairing really close along with the stock exhaust header. I Think aftermarket headers should be fine as the piping hugs closer to the engine closer whilst being a larger diameter tubing.
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Old September 20th, 2016, 09:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Thanx Teri.

I'm more interested in the race rails after seeing their images. Price is quite cheap. I'll try to inquire them further on the shipping fee part.
There's a place out in Bangkok that makes sliders and 250-300 accessories.. I can't remember the name of the shop at the moment but you may see them in my stunting thread.
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Old September 20th, 2016, 04:48 PM   #8
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
The lower bar provides the third point of contact........
Thanks
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Old March 31st, 2020, 09:40 AM   #9
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Post Trying to make my own Crash bars

How does the support point, behind the leg attach to the frame?

I can see only a bolt, but how attach to the frame?. How was done? Would some one explain me?

Thank you!
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Old March 31st, 2020, 11:16 AM   #10
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H Adel !! Welcome to Ninjette!

You can see in photos that rear part of crash-cage bolts to upper hole in frame that allows access to upper shock mounting-bolt. Rear side has nut that attaches from behind. Similar to these decorative covers: https://www.slingshotracing.net/cata...set-p-511.html




Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; March 31st, 2020 at 04:52 PM.
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Old March 31st, 2020, 03:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
H Adel !! Welcome to Ninjette!

You can see in photos that rear part of crash-cage bolts to upper hole in frame that allows access to upper shock mounting-bolt. Rear side has nut that attaches from behind. Similar to these decorative covers: https://www.slingshotracing.net/cata...set-p-511.html





Hello, DannoXYZ!.

Thank you very much for your welcome and replaying me back.

Yes, he remove the upper cover and set the rear part of the crash-cage in there. But do you think he use the upper shock bolt to hold the crash-cage By using a longer bolt? Or he Use a plate to hold everything in place( crash- cage, frame and followed by plate and use the bolt to hold everything)

Sorry! Is because I am trying to design my own.

I was thinking on replace the upper shock bolt by a longer one and use spacers, but I am not sure if I want mess with the shock!

A plate in between might work but I feel it will vibrate a lot.

I am wondering how experts in crash cage made them!

Thank you!
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Old March 31st, 2020, 05:06 PM   #12
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no, no, leave shock-bolt alone. It needs to clamp shock in place without added complications of extra-length and spacers.

Just use plate on inside of frame-hole with nut welded to it. Even better, on outside of plate, weld on washer with same OD as ID of frame-hole. That will keep plate centered over hole so you can make sure everything is aligned. Use 8mm bolt @ 33-lb*ft with blue Loctite and star-lockwasher to clamp to frame. No vibrations possible!

As for cutting hole in bodywork, I prefer precision and cutting just enough to clear. Check out photo of slider on my CBR600RR below. Hole is perfectly centered and touches slider all around.

1. make copy of frame-bolt, longer outside length +2-3" as necessary to contact bodywork.
2. spin bolt on mini-lathe and make pencil-like sharp tip on outside
3. install bolt in place of original frame-bolt with double-nuts so you can spin it in & out
4. install body-work on bike, every nut and bolt tightened so it's locked in final position
5. reach in and unscrew your custom pencil-bolt outwards so it contacts bodywork
6. tap lightly on bodywork with rubber-mallet on outside so sharp point of bolt makes mark.
7. remove bodywork and use mark as centre for hole-saw of appropriate size to cut hole. Be sure to hold drill on-axis with frame bolt

Luckily I found hole-saw of exact diameter as slider, so I was able to cut hole of perfect size with slip-fit over slider. Otherwise I'd have to go one size smaller, then use dremel to open up hole gradually until it cleared. Important part is to mark centre perfectly first.

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Old August 25th, 2021, 06:55 PM   #13
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does anyone have a name or link where I might be able to purchase these crash bars at ?
... it looks like a major can of worms to me to put on the bike but I think they would be worth it...
Danno's single slider looks easier by far and enough for what I want....
....perhaps I will brake out the welder and buy some scate board wheels as bumpers LOL
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Old August 25th, 2021, 11:35 PM   #14
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appears to be many vendors

https://impaktechusa.com/products/crash-cages
https://www.tacticalmindz.com/produc...unt-crash-cage
https://streetbikesupply.com/product...-cage-kawasaki
https://thestuntfactory.com/imcrcaka2520.html
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Old August 25th, 2021, 11:57 PM   #15
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oooh thank you !
Much appreciated !
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