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Old March 14th, 2013, 08:08 AM   #81
mgentz
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ouch. mine looked almost perfect....
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Old March 19th, 2013, 10:34 AM   #82
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I ran it through the first OCR site I found, and popped that into google translate and got this.... Not very helpful i'm sure but a little funny.

Lecture 7 yuan port Kamusha
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Old March 19th, 2013, 10:37 AM   #83
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Ran it through a better one.

Camshaft specs

ー N EX
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Trout 泄奨 lift center> ATDC ー "Q BTDC 0D 傲 ー Sat (
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"~ M" 'ー:. Torso "pp" * rope "bran et, p rope`
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Old March 19th, 2013, 01:17 PM   #84
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lol...yea....I don't read jibberish
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Old March 19th, 2013, 02:26 PM   #85
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Old March 19th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubarney View Post
wow that was weird. I thought it was going to be so much more complicated than that.

This bearing has some serious pitting for only 6000 miles. Both top and bottom. Bottom is worse.
That bearing is trashed . What dad it sound like?
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Old March 19th, 2013, 11:18 PM   #87
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Don't worry. I have translated all the instructions they sent me. Several pages worth. The best thing to use is an app on your smartphone that takes a photo then translates it. I'm pretty sure I was using the google one. All I can say is how good it is to live in the 21st century.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
That bearing is trashed . What dad it sound like?
The bearing sounded fine. I have to find out what happened there. It only has 6000 miles. I would give this bearing another 6000 at most before it f*** something.

I bought a very accurate mitutoyo micrometer to measure diameter's and I'm taking the cases to my builder who has a very accurate dial bore gauge (too expensive for me). I will check if they are round and everything. Not to mention plasti-gauge

If everything is fine I bet the assemblies weren't balance well from the factory and the crank has been rocking. Or it could be something as simple as dirt some how getting in there.

I have to investigate before I rebuild.
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Old March 19th, 2013, 11:28 PM   #88
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Looks like oil contamination
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Old March 20th, 2013, 05:51 AM   #89
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Looks like oil contamination
I think so to. I bought the bike second hand with 1200 miles. It was not looked after. I'm pretty sure the oil was never changed. Meaning the break in process was not done at all.

I tried to fix it by changing the oil twice in a week when I got it. Then every 1200. It now has 6000.

Just goes to show you how important the break in process is and how lucky I am that I pulled it apart.
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Old March 20th, 2013, 06:29 AM   #90
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I have an engine with 39 thousand miles. When I pulled it apart it looked perfect. CHANGE THE OIL PEOPLE!!!!
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Old March 20th, 2013, 01:13 PM   #91
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I have an engine with 39 thousand miles. When I pulled it apart it looked perfect. CHANGE THE OIL PEOPLE!!!!
nice.... I change mine religiously and only use high quality stuff.
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Old June 4th, 2014, 03:37 AM   #92
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I recently got one and had it translated by a Japanese gentleman. Hope this helps.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20140604_112504.jpg (103.5 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 20140604_112532.jpg (111.6 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 20140604_112545.jpg (112.0 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 20140604_112558.jpg (134.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 20140604_112601.jpg (134.8 KB, 13 views)
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Old June 4th, 2014, 11:59 PM   #93
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The Japanese may have been translated but this entire thread is in another language
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Old June 5th, 2014, 03:09 PM   #94
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ok guys, the nassert manual says oem valve springs are fine for non ultra high revving engines... but mine now has a rev limit of 14500rpm (real, flies past 15000 on the gauge) and I desperatelly need stiffer valve springs... here in Greece knowledge and experience around this certain area of the engine is unexplored and I only come across mechanics who are unwilling (or ignorant) to even propose some alternative...for exemple from some old 4cyl 400 or 250 with single spring.... any ideas ??

by the way I didn't know it was possible to place an R1 valve in the intake port...probably an exhaust valve but even better, must be lighter than a same size intake one...
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Old September 29th, 2014, 09:12 AM   #95
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Too bad i cant find any other replacement for the spring..or should i say a 'better priced' one. I have measured the std spring which have 3mm thickness, and i do have a spring maker here who have 3.2mm & 3.5mm, which they can make to the same dimensions.. Anyone have any experience on these? I believe there is some mathematical calculations to get the std spring rate, and using higher rate i can get the dimensions for a custom one.
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Old September 29th, 2014, 03:52 PM   #96
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Too bad i cant find any other replacement for the spring..or should i say a 'better priced' one. I have measured the std spring which have 3mm thickness, and i do have a spring maker here who have 3.2mm & 3.5mm, which they can make to the same dimensions.. Anyone have any experience on these? I believe there is some mathematical calculations to get the std spring rate, and using higher rate i can get the dimensions for a custom one.
read carefully through this thread... I believe your questions will be answered...
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=195898
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Old October 9th, 2020, 12:52 PM   #97
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What is the cam lifts on the beets cams?
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Old October 9th, 2020, 04:41 PM   #98
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Look at post #11 on this same thread.
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Old October 9th, 2020, 05:03 PM   #99
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Thank you
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