Front brake not engaging

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 04:42 PM

I was having front wheel squeak off and on, and yesterday it was almost deafening at parking lot speeds, then it disappeared for a bit.

So I decided to take off the axle and regrease. I took off the front wheel, cleaned each of the pieces and greased appropriately (I think). I must have bumped the brake lever when repositioning the bike, so the brake pads were too close together for the disc to fit and wouldn't spread apart.

I took out the outer brake pad to see/spread the pistons. The lower piston appeared stuck, so I WD40'd it and bled the brakes a little to get them to spread apart. Got everything back on, including that gorram speedo wheel PoS thing. And was spinning the front wheel to test if it spun freely and brake... brake.... brake brake brake. Nothing. Wheel kept free spinning.

So I thought I had gotten air in the tubes, I bled and refilled the system. Brakes still didn't work. Okay... maybe I got air in it again. So I re-bled and filled the system. Brake caliper still doesn't work.

20% total brake capacity is totally fine, right?

Help please.

I looked at both faq.ninja250.org and ninjette's wikis and can't figure out what I did incorrectly.

Alex · November 8th, 2012, 05:19 PM

What exactly did you spray wd-40 on? Did any get on the pads themselves?

What does the brake lever feel like, does it firm up, or does it just go right to the bar with no resistance?

choneofakind · November 8th, 2012, 05:20 PM

Does the brake lever travel to the grip easily? if so, there's still air in the lines. Squeeze forcefully and make sure you have the order of motions correct. It's less of a forceful squeeze, and more of a hard grab, with a quick open/close of the bleeder thrown in there.

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 05:59 PM

WD-40; I sprayed it on the pistons without the outer brake pad, so unless it bounced off and hit the inner pad, there shouldn't be any on the disc or pads.

It is same resistance all the way to the grip.

Chone, you're thinking I was too slow with the lever and bleeder changeoff?

choneofakind · November 8th, 2012, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SabreValkyrn

Chone, you're thinking I was too slow with the lever and bleeder changeoff?

Only if you can easily squeeze the lever the whole way to the grip.

If the lever is just as firm as normal, then I have no idea.

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 06:17 PM

I'll try the steps again and be more abrupt then.

Thanks for the speedy input

CZroe · November 8th, 2012, 08:07 PM

Did you pump the lever repeatedly after spreading the pads before bleeding and refilling the system? Mine goes all the way to the handle with slack several times before firming up when I spread them like that.

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Did you pump the lever repeatedly after spreading the pads before bleeding and refilling the system? Mine goes all the way to the handle with slack several times before firming up when I spread them like that.

Before bleeding and refilling, should the pads be touching the disc, all the way apart, or does it matter?

I pulled the lever a lot of times, thinking just that; but it still did nothing to stop the wheel.

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 09:37 PM

Okay, I abruptly turned and pulled and it appears to work. I just about went postal on it.

It brakes really pathetically, like less than the rear brake. If there was still air in the lines it wouldn't even be functioning, right? If so, that means I must have gotten grease or wd-40 onto the disc. Probably from cleaning grease/WD-40 off of other things then wiping down the disc with the same rag.

k-os · November 8th, 2012, 09:43 PM

You can have some engagement and feel but still have air in the lines. If you have access to a syringe I would recommend you get a piece of tubing, put it onto the end of the syringe, and fill the syringe with brake fluid. Take your MC reservoir cover off and crack open the bleed nipple. Inject the brake fluid through the bleed nipple. (This will help drive any air up, through the MC).

You could also try cracking your banjo bolts lightly and bleed any air out of the threads in the bolts that may be present.

SabreValkyrn · November 8th, 2012, 10:14 PM

I might try that tomorrow. It's too dark to see now.

I zip tied the brake lever and letting it sit overnight, one of the wikis says that's an option to try, and might as well since I can't try anything else now anyway?

FvnnyL3tt3r1ng · November 9th, 2012, 08:23 AM

From what I understand the brake pads are very sensitive to chemicals. If you didn't use brake cleaner on your rotor and any WD-40 got on it it's not coming off with just a rag. I would spray the rotor with brake cleaner and dry with canned air and a dry towel/cloth but if your pads got anything on them you might be best off replacing them...

SabreValkyrn · November 9th, 2012, 12:22 PM

*Sigh of relief* There was just air in the lines. Leaving the brake lever zip tied to the grip over night let the air leak out.

Thank you everyone for the help!

And on the bright side, I now know how to: replace brake pads, bleed and refill brake system, remove front wheel, replace front wheel, align that gorram speedo thing, spread brake pads, and beg for help on this wonderful forum.

November 8th, 2012, 04:42 PM	#1
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	Front brake not engaging I was having front wheel squeak off and on, and yesterday it was almost deafening at parking lot speeds, then it disappeared for a bit. So I decided to take off the axle and regrease. I took off the front wheel, cleaned each of the pieces and greased appropriately (I think). I must have bumped the brake lever when repositioning the bike, so the brake pads were too close together for the disc to fit and wouldn't spread apart. I took out the outer brake pad to see/spread the pistons. The lower piston appeared stuck, so I WD40'd it and bled the brakes a little to get them to spread apart. Got everything back on, including that gorram speedo wheel PoS thing. And was spinning the front wheel to test if it spun freely and brake... brake.... brake brake brake. Nothing. Wheel kept free spinning. So I thought I had gotten air in the tubes, I bled and refilled the system. Brakes still didn't work. Okay... maybe I got air in it again. So I re-bled and filled the system. Brake caliper still doesn't work. 20% total brake capacity is totally fine, right? Help please. I looked at both faq.ninja250.org and ninjette's wikis and can't figure out what I did incorrectly.

November 8th, 2012, 05:19 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	What exactly did you spray wd-40 on? Did any get on the pads themselves? What does the brake lever feel like, does it firm up, or does it just go right to the bar with no resistance? __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

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November 8th, 2012, 05:20 PM	#3
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Does the brake lever travel to the grip easily? if so, there's still air in the lines. Squeeze forcefully and make sure you have the order of motions correct. It's less of a forceful squeeze, and more of a hard grab, with a quick open/close of the bleeder thrown in there.

November 8th, 2012, 05:59 PM	#4
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	WD-40; I sprayed it on the pistons without the outer brake pad, so unless it bounced off and hit the inner pad, there shouldn't be any on the disc or pads. It is same resistance all the way to the grip. Chone, you're thinking I was too slow with the lever and bleeder changeoff?

November 8th, 2012, 06:17 PM	#6
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	I'll try the steps again and be more abrupt then. Thanks for the speedy input

November 8th, 2012, 08:07 PM	#7
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	Did you pump the lever repeatedly after spreading the pads before bleeding and refilling the system? Mine goes all the way to the handle with slack several times before firming up when I spread them like that.

November 8th, 2012, 09:37 PM	#9
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	Okay, I abruptly turned and pulled and it appears to work. I just about went postal on it. It brakes really pathetically, like less than the rear brake. If there was still air in the lines it wouldn't even be functioning, right? If so, that means I must have gotten grease or wd-40 onto the disc. Probably from cleaning grease/WD-40 off of other things then wiping down the disc with the same rag.

November 8th, 2012, 09:43 PM	#10
k-os ninjette.org sage Name: Andy Location: Sheboygan, WI Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 1988 Honda Hawk NT650, 1989 Honda Hawk NT650, 1997 GSXR750 Track Bike Posts: 890	You can have some engagement and feel but still have air in the lines. If you have access to a syringe I would recommend you get a piece of tubing, put it onto the end of the syringe, and fill the syringe with brake fluid. Take your MC reservoir cover off and crack open the bleed nipple. Inject the brake fluid through the bleed nipple. (This will help drive any air up, through the MC). You could also try cracking your banjo bolts lightly and bleed any air out of the threads in the bolts that may be present.

November 8th, 2012, 10:14 PM	#11
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	I might try that tomorrow. It's too dark to see now. I zip tied the brake lever and letting it sit overnight, one of the wikis says that's an option to try, and might as well since I can't try anything else now anyway?

November 9th, 2012, 08:23 AM	#12
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Justin Location: Florida Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 2001 Posts: A lot.	From what I understand the brake pads are very sensitive to chemicals. If you didn't use brake cleaner on your rotor and any WD-40 got on it it's not coming off with just a rag. I would spray the rotor with brake cleaner and dry with canned air and a dry towel/cloth but if your pads got anything on them you might be best off replacing them...

November 9th, 2012, 12:22 PM	#13
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	Sigh of relief There was just air in the lines. Leaving the brake lever zip tied to the grip over night let the air leak out. Thank you everyone for the help! And on the bright side, I now know how to: replace brake pads, bleed and refill brake system, remove front wheel, replace front wheel, align that gorram speedo thing, spread brake pads, and beg for help on this wonderful forum.